A selection of boots for cross-country skiing. How to choose ski boots for beginners. The importance of choosing quality boots

10.07.2013

Experts recommend choosing shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is many times more convenient than the old systems (75 mm) with welts. These boots are easy to fasten and unfasten from bindings, the entire ski set with such boots and bindings becomes lighter and more compact. Therefore, you will be able to ski longer distances and it is easier to transport the ski kit in transport. Mounts to NNN or SNS systems will cost more, but their price is justified. In addition, systemic ski boots more durable because they do not have a constantly flexing rubber rand (like 75 mm boots) that cracks and loses its properties over time.

Prices for ski boots range from 1500 r. (tourist), up to 9000 rubles. (racing). The former are universal, i.e. fit both the skate and the classics and are made of simple and inexpensive materials. If you are not an athlete, then it is not necessary to purchase the most expensive models, since for you such ski boots will not greatly affect the speed and handling. But if you decide to skate in style, then you need to choose special boots that have a high cuff that covers the ankle. This cuff supports and strengthens the ankle, which allows you to more effectively push off and keep the trajectory of movement when skating. There are also universal models of ski boots, called combined or "combi", in which you can remove the cuff and ride in classical style.

When choosing shoes, you need to pay attention to their convenience and comfort. Ski boots should be moderately hard and insulated, while sports models should "breathe". Different manufacturers use different lasts - you need to find the one that works best for your feet. If you need touring ski boots, then the well-established running boots Spine, and for more professional skiing and for athletes, Madshus ski boots can be offered. Do not be afraid to take boots from past seasons, they are cheaper and almost as good as new ones.

For skiing in the forest, pay attention to tourist-grade boots. Ski bindings must be selected for the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Keep in mind that the soles in ski boots wear out quickly when walking on asphalt, so use a change of shoes when traveling to the ski area.

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04.02.2018


To achieve a given standard for cross-country skiing, it is necessary not only to train long and hard, but also to use professional ski equipment and accessories. First of all, pay attention to skis for skating or classic move, because their weight, dynamic characteristics and the quality of the sliding surface determine how long you can maintain a high pace.

02.02.2018

Sports should always be as high quality and comfortable as possible, only then will a high result be achieved without the slightest disappointment. A lot depends on sports equipment. Running clothing is breathable, retains heat, actively wicks away moisture, keeps you dry, protects from wind, and is ultra-light. Running is enough efficient view sports, easy and affordable, so there are only more people wishing to lead a healthy lifestyle, respectively, the demand for sportswear is only increasing. Running in heavy jackets that are not able to regulate and maintain the correct temperature would be simply impossible, very hard and hot. That is why today there are many different sportswear, capable of giving athletes maximum pleasure while jogging, not restricting movements, giving lightness and airiness. It is especially important to take care of your clothes when you have to run long distances. Low-quality synthetic clothing will definitely provoke a "greenhouse effect", sweat will be released more strongly, moisture will begin to accumulate and lead to severe itching, burning, and discomfort while running. Good mood the athlete will instantly evaporate, such a workout can definitely be considered spoiled. Moreover, it is unlikely that there will be a desire to repeat such an experience. Cotton also causes similar troubles, since such a fabric quickly gets wet and dries for a long time, respectively, even in extreme heat a person can quickly catch a cold. The athlete will not get any pleasure from running, he will be constantly overcome by the desire to quickly stop exercising and take off his hated clothes. Plus, it is heavy jackets that will lead to athlete fatigue, and not physical exercise. So, the privilege is definitely on the side of high-quality polyester jackets. If a running jacket meets the following requirements, then it is chosen as correctly as possible: It has excellent durability, but at the same time its weight is completely insignificant. The texture is pleasant to the touch. Regulates the temperature regime in accordance with the season. Protects the user's body from any atmospheric precipitation. It is somewhat cool in the jacket at the beginning of the distance, but at the end of the workout, the athlete feels only warmth, coziness and increased comfort. A sports windbreaker is selected according to size, it should fit perfectly to the body, not restrict movement, be comfortable and practically merge with its owner, be completely imperceptible. High-quality models retain their shape for a long time, bright and saturated shades, durable, protected from ultraviolet exposure. The excellent quality of the summer windbreaker will give you the opportunity to enjoy every movement, soaring ease, incredible comfort throughout your workout. Dynamic natures will always choose from a wide range suitable models in style and color. If you wish, you can even experiment with the image, why not? A sufficient selection of sports windbreakers gives every chance to assume that the planned business will be crowned with success. Despite the sometimes aggressive external environment, the athlete will always remain self-confident, surrounded by unshakable comfort. Summer running windbreaker Mac in a Sac Ultra is a worthy choice. The fact is that adherents healthy lifestyle life, professional athletes, amateurs cannot miss training, therefore, they go for a run at any time of the year and in different weather - high humidity, strong wind, cool. In this case, you can not do without light sports windbreakers - an excellent summer option, the product "breathes", regulates the temperature balance, and is easy to use. A striking example of such jackets is the Mac in a Sac Ultra model. The windbreaker is made of high quality materials, polyester. It has a small moisture resistance, sufficient to protect against drizzling rain. Incredibly light - when not needed, it neatly folds into a bag, able to always protect from wind and rain, it is not blown. Athletes only dream of such a fashionable product, available in the most daring and vibrant colors. The material used is not capable of provoking an allergy. For convenience, the jacket is equipped with front pockets with zippers, reflectors, a ventilated back, and an adjustable hood. The weight of the windbreaker in the bag is 185 grams. These garments come with a two-year warranty, super lightweight jacket suitable for men and women, designed for use in summer, winter and autumn.

The primary classification of ski shoes by type of ski. There are three of them: hunting, mountain and running. Choosing ski shoes is much more difficult than the skis themselves. Cross-country ski boots form the core of the specialist shop assortment.

Hunters are less fortunate - ski shoes are not enough for them, they are often made to order based on personal wishes. Varieties of models for skiing more. They are divided into categories according to their intended purpose: for passing routes (ski touring), acrobatics (freestyle), off-piste skiing (freeride), etc.

Cross-country ski shoes can be categorized according to a variety of criteria, but based on the style of skiing:

  • ridge;
  • classical;
  • combined.

For skating

In move free style during races, competitions in biathlon and Nordic combined, almost always skating is used. The athlete pushes off with the inner edge of the ski, moving in a straight line, like a skater, goes through turns, lifts herringbone. Such techniques require a fixed fixation of the foot and ankle zone in the shoe.

Boots for skating must have:

  • the inflexible sole strengthened from sides;
  • firm support in the ankle joint.
Attention! This ensures the clarity of movements in this technique, protection and stress relief from the leg in the area of ​​increased load.

For the classic move

Skating is not allowed in classical competitions. The principles of movement in all classical techniques suggest greater freedom of the ankle joint, abduction of the leg back, support on the toe. Therefore, ski boots for classic skiing are different:

  • pliable, easily bent sole;
  • free soft top.

This is a low shoe as there is no rigid, fixing cuff over the ankle. The foot inside can move freely.

Combined variant

Models for amateur sports universal: used in classic and skating. Characteristics of combined shoes:

  • sole of moderate rigidity;
  • partial fixation of the ankle joint (the cuff is present, as in professional ski boots for skating, but located lower).

Beginner athletes and amateurs who ski regularly operate combi for several seasons and speak well of them.

How to choose boots

Modern sports shoes are complex. It takes into account the correct distribution of load and weight when different kind x activity, provides safety for muscles and ligaments, creates the right microclimate inside the boot. Given the huge range of ski boots, the athlete needs to clearly understand what he wants for himself: a comfortable, stylish or inexpensive pair of shoes.

To size

It's risky to buy ski shoes based on your foot size. Sample in this case is required. You need to measure on a woolen knitted sock of medium thickness. Specialized ski socks are also suitable.

Boots are chosen not too loose - it will be inconvenient to manage skis. Squeezing is also unacceptable. The internal relief of the shoe must match the anatomy of the foot. It is valuable when a feeling of comfort arises already during the fitting.

Before buying shoes, you need to walk. Raising the heel, you need to feel that it does not come off from the inside, but is adjacent to the sole. Socks do not compress when lifting the heel and deforming the boot. If these conditions are not met, the selection of another pair is required.

By hardness

Among the boots for cross-country skiing, the softest and lowest ones are for the classic move (flexible sole and upper of the product). The denser ones are universal, and the toughest ones are skating.

Attention! In skating shoes, the cuff should hold the foot, but not compress it or impede movement.

By type of fasteners

Now in stores you can find three types of mounts:

  • front;
  • with a gutter;
  • rail.

An example of a front binding is the Nordic 75. It clamps and secures the toe of the boot. This option is already almost out of use, as it is not convenient enough and outdated. Nordic is inexpensive, but it is rarely included in product reviews.

Gutter mounts are common and in demand (SNS system). They have a single band of fixation and are well suited for the classic move. The fixation in the NNN system is more rigid - there are two mounting protrusions there, which resembles rails. The system is modern, ideal for skating.

The gutter mounts have rubber stops in three colors that correspond to the rigidity of the fixation:

  • yellow (with relatively weak fixation for classic skating);
  • lilac (with fixation of medium intensity for universal riding);
  • red (with strong fixation for skating).

There is a similar color gradation on the rail mounts:

  • white stops - for maximum rigidity:
  • green - somewhat softer;
  • black - for standard skating;
  • reds are the softest.

Fasteners are snapped either automatically or mechanically. On automatic, the latch is activated as soon as the bracket enters the groove. Mechanical fasteners require that they be connected manually.

Important! It is better to install fasteners in a service center or store. At home, it is possible to drill a hole incorrectly, which will lead to a shift in the center of gravity or damage to the ski.

Which ski boots to choose for beginners and professionals

Professional riders cover about two hundred and fifty kilometers a week. Such loads can withstand inventory made using the latest technologies. This is the most expensive, comfortable and wearable footwear in which athletes appreciate:

  • seamless gluing;
  • racing insoles;
  • soles that redistribute the load;
  • carbon platforms, etc.

Mounts for high-intensity training are selected rail, with a mechanical lock - they are more reliable than automatic ones.

For beginners, these top-level subtleties will come in handy much later, if the degree of professionalism increases. The main thing is the most comfortable, warm models that suit the style of the move.

What is the difference between expensive and cheap shoes

Expensive shoes are made from modern synthetic materials. Leather is not used in their manufacture. To shoes for amateurs ski trips there are no strict requirements. There are both cheap and expensive models. The cost is mainly determined by the materials and brand awareness.

In the middle and high price sector, shoes can be thermoformed. This means that some of the discomfort that is felt during the first shoe is eliminated by directing a stream of warm air from a hair dryer into the boot for fifteen minutes. After warming up in shoes, you need to walk for twenty or thirty minutes. It will take the shape of the foot and will not cause inconvenience.

Women's and children's models

Women's ski running shoes feature a narrow last and a more refined design. There is no technological difference between boots for girls and male models.

Children's models choose comfortable and warm. Manufacturers rarely ignore additional insulation in such shoes. The child takes it off and puts it on easily. Some options have a protective Velcro that additionally fixes the leg and prevents the snow from stuffing inside and getting wet.

The most modern SNS and NNN mounts are not suitable for children's models. For them, locking mechanisms are produced separately. Fasteners for such boots are softer and have a relatively large latch.

Manufacturers and popular models

Salomon is a well-known manufacturer of boots and SNS mounts that are combined with shoes from other companies:

  • adidas
  • Fischer;
  • Karhu;
  • Rossignol (models of past seasons).

Note! The latest Salomon boots and bindings don't always match their predecessors. For compatibility issues when buying, you need to get advice from the store seller.

Recognized brands are:

  • Alpha;
  • Artex;
  • Alpina.

For them, the rail fastenings of the NNN system (manufacturer, for example, Rottefella) are ideal. The latest Rossignol boots are ideal for this type of binding.

Domestic manufacturers of sports equipment also deserve attention. Marax has been on the market recently, since 2003, but the number of their customers is large. Shoes are inexpensive, very wearable and comfortable.

Slightly older than Spine, has been manufacturing products since 1999. There are expensive and cheap models. They are distinguished by a comfortable anatomical block and internal shock-absorbing pads. Made from the latest frost-resistant materials. Before going on sale, all models are tested on the basis of sports schools.

Conclusion

Professional consultants and experienced skiers are convinced that when choosing ski shoes, first of all, you need to focus on comfort. The most important thing is to ensure the comfort of the foot. After that, you can think about materials, design, fixtures and price. The range of ski boots allows you to realize the entire rating of the desires and needs of the buyer in one pair.

Professional athletes have long been convinced that not every boot can normally move skating. That is why it is so important to choose the right equipment, approaching the issue with full responsibility.

The main thing here is always the choice of the skis and boots themselves. And if there is a lot of information about the choice of skis for skating, then the selection of boots should be discussed separately.

About skating boots

Of course, classic boots cannot be used for this specific technique. That is why, when coming to a sports equipment store, you should pay attention to a certain group of models. So how come should look like shoes for skating?

  • Models must be high, and at least cover the ankle, as this helps to avoid injury and damage.
  • It also protects against injury increased rigidity models.
  • Like boots for a classic run, skate models should be selected strictly according to size, focusing on the length and width of the foot.
  • From the whole variety of pads, you should choose the one that is ideal for the athlete.

It is also very important that skiers pay attention to the features of the attachment, to the materials from which the model is made.

In a word, there are many parameters here, and it is worth talking about each of them separately.

The importance of choosing quality boots

Of course, many novice athletes want to spend as little money as possible on the purchase of sports equipment. However, experts recommend saving on everything except ski boots. And if the athlete themselves can change the skis every season, as they become unusable, then the boots can serve their owner for 10-15 years with proper care.

Since the boots reliably protect the foot from injury and damage, you should not save on them.

The best models to choose soft leather with special insulation inside. These shoes fit perfectly on the foot, fixing it in the right position.

Choice of shoe size and fitting features

It has already been noted above how important choose the model according to the size. Such shoes should clearly fit all the features of the foot, tightly fitting it.

The fact is that if the shoes are too big, the leg will not be securely fastened, and, therefore, the risk of injury will increase. If the models are too small, it will be unpleasant for a person to move around in them, and this will affect sports results.

Since high-quality skating boots are equipped with an inner layer of insulation, wear warm, no wool socks. The maximum that an athlete can afford is light socks for every day. You need to try on shoes with exactly the socks with which the shoes are planned to be used.

It is wonderful if, after the shoes have been put on, a person gets up and looks a bit like them. If during movement, the boots do not cause discomfort, then they can be used for skating.

Model stiffness selection

Ski boots for skating must be tough, as this prevents injury from active skiing. The maximum rigidity of the boots should be at the ankle, since the models must fit the leg tightly to avoid injury.

Often model top made of hard, frost-resistant material with a special polyurethane coating.

While skating, a person repels more strongly than when classical skating by ski. That is why there is a lot of pressure on the leg here, and if the model is not rigid enough, injuries will not take long.

The average stiffness of a boot for skating ranges from 105-120. there are also special boots for competitions, which are much more rigid.

It is definitely impossible to calculate such stiffness on your own in a store, but a person can make an experiment. He needs to bend with maximum strength upper part boot forward. If it bends poorly, then the boot has good stiffness, but if the model quickly obeys efforts, then another pair should be found.

Types of fastenings and adjustments in boots

Now exists 3 types of mounts, and each of them needs to be discussed separately.

NNN.Almost the most popular type of binding used for cross-country skiing. With it, you can adjust the width of the boot. Also, such models provide maximum contact with the ski canvas, guaranteeing excellent control of their own movements.

SNS. Such models can be designed for both classic and skating. The sole is mainly made of a practical thermoplastic, and through the use of a "boot in a shoe" design, a person receives maximum fastening security for his foot.

NN75. These models are suitable for children as well as juniors. They securely fasten the foot, not allowing it to slip out. Also, this mounting option provides maximum protection against injury.

You can adjust the foot to secure it in the block using the lacing available on each shoe, as well as using zippers and Velcro straps. Due to the elastic cuff, a person is able to fix his leg so as not to feel discomfort even with the most intense movement.

You can also choose a model with a special, additional heel adjustment using an elastic strap.

Women's and children's shoe models

The basic rules for choosing models by size for girls remain unchanged. If an athlete wants to feel comfortable and not worry about injuries, she should choose shoes that fit exactly her size.

To make it more convenient for women, manufacturers make some changes to their models. For example, boots la ladies do a little lower than for men. They are also less rigid, but the risk of injury does not increase.

Women's skating boots usually make a little wider at the calf, and sometimes they even put a special volume regulator here to make the shoes as comfortable as possible for ladies. In addition, some skating boots have an increased angle of inclination and a slightly high heel, which provides comfort when skating.

Perhaps the most difficult thing is to choose shoes for a child, because his foot size is increasing all the time, and the baby can quickly grow out of the selected models.

Children's Shoes are less rigid and are also lower than adult models. Shoes for a child should always be chosen together with the young athlete himself in order to check the comfort of the boots and lasts. If it is convenient for the baby to move in boots, and they fully correspond to his foot size, the model can be taken.

Top 5 best manufacturers

When choosing a model, buyers very often focus not only on specifications but also on the manufacturer. What manufacturers are considered the best?

  1. Models for skating from the brand are popular Spine(price from 2500 rubles).
  2. Boots Alpina for skating, wealthy athletes choose, putting quality at the forefront (price from 4,500 rubles).
  3. Another popular manufacturer is the brand Nordway(price from 3000 rubles).
  4. Boots are popular Solomon for skating (cost from 5000 rubles).
  5. Another popular brand is Madshus(price from 5000 rubles).

And yet, relying only on the brand is not worth it, because sometimes the buyer overpays for it. You can find affordable models from those manufacturers who do not greatly inflate prices, but control the quality.

Professionals often share tips from their personal experience regarding the choice of boots and other ski equipment.

  • Experts do not recommend buying shoes for a child for growth, because if the models are large, young athlete it is quite possible to face serious injuries.
  • It is also not recommended to use boots for classic walking when skating. In such a case, the athlete will also face serious injury and leg fatigue.
  • If there is a desire to purchase models suitable for both classic and skating, then there are special combined options.
  • And finally, it is worth saying that it is better to choose boots along with bindings in order to be 100% sure that they fit together.

Choosing skating boots - video

Let's now watch a video where they will tell you in detail how to choose the right equipment for skating.

In the 80s in the world cross-country skiing a breakthrough has occurred. One day the world champion in cross-country skiing, Svan Gunde (Sweden), decided to try using a long pole along with an accelerated move. Thus, an accelerated system of movement was discovered, which is called the skating style of skating.
Due to the fact that such a skating technique was very different from the classical one, it required different equipment. Boots, skis and ski poles for this method had to perform special functions.
Consider the basic properties of boots for skating. These shoes should be large in height (above the ankle). This design can protect the athlete's foot from injury. The rigidity of boots for skating should also be greater than other types. This gives protection from injuries and facilitates the movement due to good ankle fixation.
If you use classic skate boots, then the leg gets tired very quickly and further discomfort is created for the athlete.
When choosing boots for skating style, you need to take into account the fact that the measurement should take place exactly on the leg - without stocks. Almost all modern manufacturers of skate boots take into account all the necessary nuances, so they are made of special soft leather with additional internal insulation. So it is not necessary to wear warm socks on your feet.
Don't skimp on ski boots. Because it is the most important attribute for good riding and sufficient speed. Good shoes will serve you for 10 years or more.
Choosing ski boots for skating
The first thing you should pay attention to when buying is the correct fixation of your ankle. Each manufacturer that produces such shoes has its own version of the shoe. Therefore, before buying, it is recommended to try on several boots from different companies and opt for the most convenient one.
Traditional flagships in the production of skate boots are Madshus. If the budget allows, then you should pay attention to them. You can buy Spine skating boots or models from past seasons for less.

Types of ski boots

Today there are 4 different types of ski boots. Skate boots are of the sports type. This category also includes boots for classics, as well as combined boots that can be used for both styles of skiing. This possibility exists thanks to special cuffs that can be easily removed if necessary.
The heaviest loads fall on sports group boot. Therefore, this type has the most requirements. After all, the average duration of an athlete's training can reach 4-5 hours a day.
Both boots and soles and bindings are constantly tested for strength not only by temperature changes, but also by the effects of load, friction and moisture. Due to such difficult operating conditions, the most modern and technological materials are used for sports boots. This is usually synthetic, which was developed specifically for extreme conditions. Of course, sometimes natural leather is also used, but only in combination with other materials.
In addition to the sports type of ski boots, there are also boots for sports tourism. This shoe is more versatile and durable and is designed for off-road ski touring, and sometimes even for skiing on foot. They are made from high quality materials. Most often it is genuine leather, combined with synthetics of increased strength. Removable cuffs are also often used in sports hiking boots to protect the ankle.
The next category is touring ski boots. It presents the largest assortment - from the simplest and most inexpensive models to elite expensive items.
And finally, it is worth saying a few words about ski shoes for children separately. The main priority for this type is hygiene, warmth, comfort and safety. Also, the emphasis is on the sole - the material for it is chosen one of the most durable.

Let's talk about fasteners.

According to the type of fasteners, boots are divided into 2 groups - standard and profile. The first category of boots (75 mm) has holes for bindings. The second is provided by a special sole with several notches. In turn, the fastenings have protrusions, due to which the boot is fixed.
The profile system (NNN, NIS and SNS) has a number of advantages. The most important of them is the effectiveness of the push when running. The rubber parts in the profile mounts have different stiffness, which directly affects the effectiveness of the push. That is why for the classics they use an elastic band with a hardness index of 95, for a skate - 115. Rubber with a hardness of 105 is best suited for a combined style. The 105th combined model has the highest cost.
Mounts are divided into 3 more subgroups - mechanical, automatic and semi-automatic. The main difference between them is the method of fastening/unfastening. Automatic mounts do this with a special button, but with mechanical mounts you have to do it manually. Automatic machines are even a little cheaper, but the main advantage of mechanical ones is a more reliable and lightweight mechanism (it is less affected by moisture, temperature changes and contains fewer parts).
There are two fastening standards for profile boots - SNS and NNN. The main difference between them lies in the notches on the boots. There are two for NNN and one for SNS.

Proper ski care.

Ski boots definitely need proper care. It is important to constantly ensure that they are waterproof. To do this, they are impregnated with special ones.
Before the impregnation process of ski boots, they must be cleaned. After lubricating shoes, some time must pass for the lubricant to be absorbed. You can repeat the procedure several times.

If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.

Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.

There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.

This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.

I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.

Ski selection

Still plastic...

First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.

Start with the classics

When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).

Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)

What skis to choose for a beginner?

First, about prices. Racing skis standing on top model range well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomik, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what you need and where to move. The exception is if you big weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.

What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.

Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their rigidity. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for a long time. long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and track preparation require skiing. different requirements. Therefore, in the world of cross-country skiing, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve best glide under certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.

Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.

Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.

There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. A regular skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.

How to choose skis

As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis(ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com):


The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating the picture will be different, because they should not have maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):

That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).

You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.

So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.

The course of action may be as follows:

1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.

2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.

Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.

3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For the classics correct definition stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote "A short course of discipline Skiing" RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the binding (meaning about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should be in contact with the floor. "In practice, this is easy to check - one person stands on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you stand on both skiing, then the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block.If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor.Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor.Check one person can do it with a sheet of paper, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the block.

If conditions do not allow this method to be applied, then the stiffness can be approximately determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).

Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.

The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.


If you didn’t manage to pick up classic skis in terms of stiffness - those that are were a bit soft, then you can calmly look at the skis a little longer. As a rule, the longer the skis, the stiffer they are. For example, the Fisher company in mass models generally switched to a direct dependence of the length of skis on the weight of the skier. Of course, such a number will not work with skating skis, and for classic skis, the length is not so critical.

Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (I mean soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)

Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".

Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:

  • The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
  • At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
  • With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
  • With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
    (This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)

(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)

4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)

5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.

Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.

There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.

6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.

If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:

The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and power load carry mainly laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.

Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.

If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.

Choice of ski boots

If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways protection of expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.

Choice of ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.

Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.

If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings, which were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.

Height, cm Skate, cm Classic, see
150 130 120
152 132 122
155 135 125
157 137 127
160 140 130
165 145 135
170 150 140
172 152 142
175 155 145
178 157 147
180 160 150
182 162 152
185 165 155
187 167 157
190 170 160
192 172 162
195 175 165

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear back(!!!) skis.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember good words his wife ... In short, you need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with your feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

To get an idea of ​​the process vocational training skis, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.

Ski waxes

Lubricants are available different types. The most commonly used paraffins professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.

From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions you may run into some problems:

  • Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
  • Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
  • The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

  • Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
  • Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
  • Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
  • Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
  • Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
  • Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
  • Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
  • Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
  • A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
  • Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
  • Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins when primary processing skis or when lubricated for heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What ski wax to buy for ski preparation

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.


This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.


Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main "household" advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong smell.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.


This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.



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