Rigid freeride skis. Do you need special skis for freeride? Differences between freestyle backcountry skis and classic freeride skis

Before looking at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose skiing for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

Dynastar carving skis. evo.com

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, they allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

Racing Salomon skis. evo.com

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). Models are very different in geometry and features, designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

Universal skis Armada. evo.com

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin lands, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

Skis for freeride Salomon. evo.com

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin ground, and also allows you to jump from rocks without harm to health.

What to buy

Skis park, for freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

Moment park skis. evo.com

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are twin-tip models with the same curved toe and heel. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a ski jump with both his back and his face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: the length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, as they are selected according to a specific sports discipline and the pros don't need advice. Better focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced.

Alpine skiing options

Length

The length of skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To choose the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be -5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, hard skiing requires good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional stiffness than universal skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break into side slip.

How more weight, especially hard skis needed to keep him.

It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride on soft skis, for example, universal ones. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the stiffer the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut radius depends on ski geometry. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will pass.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the style of skiing. Slalom has a short radius - 9-12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-range skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis listen better on turns and, unlike long-radius ones, allow you to ride on rather tight, crowded slopes.

The radius of universal skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis is usually made up of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.

From the sides, the core is closed with plastic walls, on top - with a decorative strip, and from below - with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and depreciation increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side and decorative trims, and the core is closed with one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.

Cap provides less weight and more torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. Inside the case there is a core made of wood or light synthetic materials.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures cornering stability and less sensitivity to track irregularities.

In addition to these three structures, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends - according to another.

Alpine skiing materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with light synthetic foam. Foam does not provide such stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

Foam core. backcountry.com

The next layer is the core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

In the production of a sliding surface, combined materials are also used. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Mounting standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Suitable for ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail skating boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example climbing a mountain. Most of these bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 (Touring) soles.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Development Salomon. Boot bindings with a higher WTR sole with tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elastic fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not unfasten, but will return the boot to its place.

Bindings for carving skis have a little elasticity. It is enough to shift the boot by 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible, as they are under more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To release the freeride binding, the boot must move to the side by 2.5-3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop (ski-stop) is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. Looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.

The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mount on the ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, choose a ski mount only after you choose the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening on a ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most secure installation method. Cons: You can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a binding platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will match the mounts and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If the ski has a platform without holes, any bindings will work, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings are easily changed to the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same ski.

How to choose sticks

1. Material. Sticks can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of an alloy. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with a sharp edge of a ski, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Sticks for normal skiing are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the rings of sticks behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.

the-raceplace.com

3. The size and shape of the rings. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed so that the stick does not go deep into the snow. Freeride models have big rings so that the stick holds well on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots while skiing.

Some manufacturers make sticks with interchangeable rings for different conditions skating.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is right for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.

Before choosing sticks, put on ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick on the arm), it is not advised to wear it. During a fall, ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boots parameters

First, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will analyze how to choose boots depending on your style of skiing.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort you need to make to change the angle of the boot top. The stiffer the boot, the better your muscle forces are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots dampen efforts due to the bending of the bootleg. As a result, ski control is reduced.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to manage your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too hard boots.

sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel up and down. These boots have a higher rubber sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable pads that allow them to be used with regular bindings.

Touring outsole. gearinstitute.com

WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

WTR outsole. lugaresdenieve.com

Shoe width

Shoe width - the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable shoe widths. They indicate the range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in too wide boots you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy too spacious shoes.

thermoforming

This is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

Inner boot in thermoformable material. backcountry.com

Some boots can only be molded problem areas, in others the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are labeled Auto Fit, they are thermoformed while you wear them, from the warmth of your foot. A few days of riding is enough for the self-molded boots to adapt to your features.

Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying shoes. So you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed for hot forming with a special dryer. Hot forming is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits in size, but it presses a little in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Warming

Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and wool for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

evo.com

These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and just for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, put personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not chase softness and convenience: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to conveniently climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

Freeride (from the English freeride - “free riding, riding”) is one of the styles of the most magnificent winter hobby, namely. It is believed that it is skiing in the style of "freeride" in off-piste mountainous terrain and untouched snow that reveals the fullness of opportunities. skiing. Of course, freeride is not a place for skiing beginners, as it is often accompanied by various dangers (from avalanches to an elementary loss of the route in space). In preparation for mastering the freeriding style of riding, it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of terrain, route planning, exploration of climate and weather conditions. The only thing left is to choose the right skis for freeride.

Before skiing, it is necessary not only to plan the route, but also to choose the right skis

In this article, you will learn what criteria should be used to choose freeride skis among a rich modern assortment.

Freeride types

Before you start, you need to figure out what exactly you have to deal with, or rather, what kind of freeride you are going to do.

• Freeride light, or lightweight - a type of skiing on loose snow (powder), outside the ready ski slopes. People are taken to the top of the mountain with the help of lifts, then there is a free exit from the mountain along the selected untouched terrain. It is worth noting that this view is a relatively budget entertainment.
• Cat skiing - is that skiers are thrown onto snowy mountain peaks with the help of special transport, famous for its absolute cross-country ability, called "snowcat" (which immediately affects the cost of this type of skiing). After that, freeriders carry out off-piste free descent from the mountain.
• Backcountry, or skitour, is another form of freeride available on your budget. In this case, the ascent to the top of the mountain is carried out by a comfortable ascent by freeriders on skis to the chosen end point of the route. This is followed by free descent.
• Snowmotoboarding is perhaps one of the most fun types of freeride. Here skiing becomes only an auxiliary element of skiing. The main part of the process is taken over by a mountain bike, an ATV or a snowmobile, to which they hook it with the help of special freerider equipment. This is how snow skiing is carried out, reminiscent of water skiing.

The above types of freeride skiing are just the main and most common variations of skiing, which even a beginner or amateur can initially get acquainted with, having decided to master this style.

The choice of ski equipment

So, if you have already decided on the route and type of freeride, then it's time to choose skis for freeride. It should be noted that your level of training and skiing skills are important here.

Alpine skiing is divided among themselves into several categories and types according to different criteria.

Ski categories

First of all, the selection of a category depends on the professionalism and personal physical data of the skier.

Here we can distinguish the following categories of skis:

• for beginners;
• for advanced amateur skiers;
• for professional sports skiing.

Without a doubt, this primary choice will help you make a consultant of any sports shop. Next, you should take into account the age and constitution of the skier. The gender of the athlete is also important.

Age and gender difference in alpine skiing

There is an age limit for ski equipment. Based on this, shells are divided into the following types:

• adults;
• junior (teenage);
• children's.

In turn, adult and children's shells from the category for beginners can also be divided by gender:

• men's;
• female.

All of them differ in softness or rigidity, sensitivity to the surface of the snow cover and the geometry of the ski structure, which will be able to ensure the safety of the descent in difficult conditions (ice cover, avalanche). We will talk about this in more detail later.

Skiing for freeride style

The main feature of freeride devices lies in their design: they have a fairly wide middle part of the shells (up to 11 cm) and a short length relative to their owner.

Professional riders are advised to focus on their height: vertical ski boards should be slightly (2–3 cm) higher than a person.

Freeride skis must be, of course, comfortable for any maneuvering, taking into account the possibility of skiing both on loose snow (powder) and on hard ice surfaces.

It should be understood that professional sports ski equipment is distinguished by the rigidity of the board when pressed, which means that only a person from a certain weight category can own such skis. An athlete will undoubtedly select this category of equipment based on the recommendations of his coach and the type of descent (ski-cross, slalom, freestyle, etc.).

But there is also a universal product.

Universal mountain equipment is more malleable in mastering by both amateur skiers and beginners. They will allow you to ride both on a prepared track and on a steep, unbroken mountain slope.

The size and length of skis for amateur freeride

Usually the equipment for any freeride descent is distinguished by its length and width, which consists of different parameters of the front, middle and rear parts projectile. Also, when choosing ski equipment, the radius of the side cutout of the projectile is taken into account. For example, wide alpine skis are suitable for a soft powder slope. For hard mountain slopes, you should choose narrower devices (with an average width of the "waist"), which will allow the skier to easily ride even on a bumpy track.

The usual average width of universal alpine skis for amateur riders varies from 6 cm to 8 cm. Such shells should not be long. Often they are shorter than their owner by 5-10 cm. This length provides a safe descent for beginners, as it is relatively easy to control and maneuver.

Alpine ski design

According to their design, ski equipment is divided into three main categories:

• sandwich;
• box

Sandwich - ski design, which consists in the multi-layer filling of the device with various materials. Each layer of such filling is responsible for its function. As a rule, the upper and lower layers are responsible for ensuring the rigidity of the projectile.

Cap - a design option, which also represents the presence of several layers of different composition, but, unlike the first option, the "foundation" of the cap is the upper rigid layer, to which all subsequent forming layers of the ski equipment are attached.

The box is a structure with a "core", which is wrapped with the necessary material over its entire surface, which, in turn, provides the torsion stiffness of the ski board for good grip on any track and smooth control.

To complete the picture, it would be useful to listen to freeride style professionals. Most often these are guides and rescuers who are trained and have the most sophisticated and dexterous professional skiing skills.

• The 10cm freeride ski width is more than enough for any skiing level. Suitable for skiing on both hard surfaces and soft loose snow.
• You should always keep up with the times and listen to new sports trends. In this case, we are talking about the acquisition of ski equipment with Rocker technology. These skis are much faster and lighter at lower speeds, allowing you to master powder skiing without compromising hard-surface skiing. Thus, when skiing with a rocker, you can safely alternate the terrain for skiing, which is perfect for both beginners and more advanced freeride lovers. For daily free skiing, skis with a double-sided rocker are suitable.
• It is worth noting that hard skis with a straight tail are suitable for ski touring. Ski touring fasteners often make the skis heavier and reduce the sensitivity of their control, this should be remembered by skiers with low weight category, and must also be considered when choosing equipment for women and children.
• When riding on powder, it is advisable to purchase shells with a reverse deflection. This will create the feeling of flying and "snow surfing". Skis with such a deflection do not sink in the snow and are easily controlled.
• Spring skiing will provide you with light modeling skis with pronounced carving like a twin-tip. Such skis will not get stuck in dense wet snow and will provide good cross-country ability, taking into account spring weather conditions.

That's all the initial knowledge about the features of freeride skis, which should be considered when buying ski equipment. It remains only to choose the design and color scheme of your equipment, and forward to mastering the freeride style.

How do you help a "beginner" freerider (regardless of their previous ski experience) choose their first set of equipment?

If you look at ski Internet resources, this is perhaps one of the most discussed issues there, in terms of the number of clicks comparable only to “teach katadze correctly” and “90-60-90 is looking for a travel companion for a trip to Courche Avel”. Often these three topics are started simultaneously by one user according to the principle “I want everything now”.

I will say right away, when I see such a question at the beginning of the topic, I don’t read further, because almost every answerer will certainly tell about himself and his “beloved” (i.e. inventory), and the criterion of objectivity is by no means the most important in such discussions. Therefore, I don’t know if my advice will be some kind of revelation for those who are interested, but in any case I will try to make them useful.

In fact, it is rather difficult for a person with extensive experience to advise a beginner, one way or another, “experience” will prevail, and personal feelings from a particular ski model will not coincide with the feelings of not only a beginner, but even a friend with experience. There is one win-win recommendation: first try it yourself, and then buy what suits you best. In theory, this article can be ended at this point. But I’ll still mention a couple of common truths for a couple of sheets.

Riding experience since 1980. Worked as a ski guide and instructor.

To the question of the width of the waist

I'll try to remember myself looking for my first skis for deep snow ... Like many, I diligently studied the test results of various ski magazines and forum gurus, and as a result I liked the skis, which at that time did not cause general delight. To be precise, these were my second virgin - Salomon Pocket Rocket. And I chose the first ones simply by geometry: a combination of the maximum width with the minimum own turning radius. They were Kneissl (a defunct brand) with an 80 mm waist, the widest not only in the brand's collection of that year, but also in the European market. Not to mention the North American market, where there were already models from Atomic and Volkl for heli-skiing with a width of more than 100 mm, produced, oddly enough, since the “pre-carving” times.

Everything changed quite dramatically at the beginning of the 2000s, which began under the slogan “Carving for the masses, freeride for the youth!” Interestingly, in this paradigm, one way or another, we live to this day. The first, as always, were our "American friends" in the mass segment - the company K2. In addition to them, in the States and Canada at that time there were already many garage brands that produced wide skis for freeride and telemark. However, it would be unfair not to mention that there was also something in Europe. So, K2 ventured into a model with a waist of about 90 mm (AK Enemy, and then Seth Pistols), since then this width has become the standard for freeride wagons.

Skiers with good technique, who love piste skiing, prefer just such models - with a waist of 90-100 mm, in terms of their running characteristics, they are closer to the extended giant slalom (classic setting of bindings, a combination of camber with a front rocker, a rear one may be absent, there may be titanal in construction, with good torsional rigidity) than to virgin twin-tips with a middle setting of fasteners. Such a waist is combined with its own radius from 18 to 24 m (a larger radius requires more powerful, high-speed skating, and therefore more skill and strength). These all-rounders behave perfectly on the prepared track, but due to the width they already emerge in virgin soil, it all depends on its density and the skill of the skier himself, and it is required.

soft vs hard

But it is unlikely that experts read such articles - they themselves make recommendations. Therefore, we will continue for those who are not yet strong in technology (but maybe they don’t think about themselves), but they are not averse to freeriding.

I would like to immediately warn against the common misconception that the stiffer the ski, the more “sporty” it is, meaning longitudinal rigidity. In fact, “sportiness”-tenacity on ice is associated with high torsional rigidity, which is easier to obtain in longitudinally rigid skis, but not necessarily (modern technologies help). The choice of model for stiffness is a very individual matter and multifactorial. Summarizing, we highlight the following design features that are characteristic of both narrow and wide skis:

• The hard center in models with camber provides better grip on ice: the longer this part, the more speed you can consistently (without edge breaks) make carved turns.
• The soft front end (let's call it the tip of the ski, although the toe itself is much shorter than what we mean by this name - the front third or quarter of the ski) makes it easier to enter the turn, but is demanding on the "longitudinal" work - the skier's pendulum weight transfer along the length of the ski in the turn. Loading your socks too hard can cause the ski to buckle and send you flying over your head.
• A hard heel (again: not the heel itself, but, on average, the last quarter of the length), secures on landings, but is demanding on technique: you “sat too long” in a turn and you are already rushing straight down. A soft heel in such a situation can simply take out across the slope, but in case of an error in landing, lay it on your back. And how to objectively consider what is soft and what is hard? Sometimes you can hear directly opposite opinions about the same model, although meticulous American guys conduct stiffness tests by loading the ski with a standard weight and measuring the change in sag.

Rostov

Perhaps only one indicator does not cause controversy - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sliding surface of the ski. Absolute objectivity, neither add nor subtract, unless you break it. It is clear that skis with a larger surface float more easily, i.e. at a lower speed. And then the brain of a novice freerider begins to smoke with tension. Logic advises to take wider skis, and the timid subconsciousness calls for caution: “You can’t cope with skis that are 40 or even more millimeters wider than your usual ones!” I'll tell a story. A man who did not know how to ski at all flew in a heli-skiing company with his friends. Well, he became bored, or maybe it was a shame to sit alone in a helicopter, waiting for others. I decided to try ... And I went. Technically, maybe not true, but I went. Because wide skis in virgin lands ride almost the same as narrow skis on a snow groomer. You should be afraid, rather, not of width, but of excessive length, especially when forum gurus talk about “... wet and straighten and short skis sucks!”

Yes, the length gives advantages on the moves, speed stability, but what if the technique is still not enough and “turning in feet” is an unfamiliar phrase, and in front of you are not medium-slope ice fields, but a forest or a narrow couloir, the snow is wet, or even broken . There is only one answer: take skis in height or a little higher. Over the years, I and many of my good skiing friends (interestingly, of different heights and weights) came to the decision: no longer than 186 cm! This length optimally combines stability and agility. Although the fashion for two-meter sleepers has not bypassed us.

Ski turning radius

Let's talk about your own ski turning radius (SRP). For those who do not know what this means, I will explain. If you extend the ski cutout line (along the edge), then sooner or later it will close into a circle, the radius of which is indicated on each ski. Such a geometric action is only possible if the notch of one radius (monoradius) - this is the case with most ride skis (we all have them), it provides calculated arc control.

multiradius

But there is also a multi-radius, for example, double as in models with a V-shape (we don’t have such skis this season). V-shape, the toe is wider than the heel, the smaller radius on the toe makes it easier to enter the arc, and the larger one on the heel makes it easy to complete it, in addition, this shape ensures the “automatic” floating of the toe (and the narrow heel sinks). Scott in some of its models (eg Scrapper) uses a different distribution of radii: very large in the middle third and smaller at the ends (the ability to shorten the turn with active longitudinal work).

Skis with a radius of up to 20 m

The intended purpose of short-radius (up to 20 m SRP) models is backcountry-freestyle. Most popular with beginner riders for ease of use in powder, cuts crisply in hard snow with a short center section, and fairly long rocker tips engage in deep snow, stable at low to medium speeds.

Skis with a radius of more than 20 m

And the third group of skis, which I briefly mentioned at the beginning of the article, are those with a SRP of more than 20 m. They are rather rigid longitudinally, the rear rocker is absent or not pronounced, with a waist from 100 to 115 mm. Will be of interest to powerfully riding riders in a wide variety of conditions. By the way, it is these models that are duplicated by manufacturers in a lightweight version for freeride / ski tour lovers.

A couple of notes on the combination of ski shape with camber and rocker. The most characteristic is that the weight deflection (camber) in the middle part coincides with the cutout (a part of the ski from a section with a maximum width in the front to a similar one in the back, rockers begin behind these sections - toe and heel rises). To reduce tip inertia (many people don't like the way they "dangle" in flat dribble when the skis are loosely edged), manufacturers are using various technological innovations to reduce the weight and area of ​​these parts of the ski. Some brands for pure virgin riding produce full-rocker (camber vice versa) models. Their advantages in deep snow are obvious, but on hard snow they are more demanding on the technique (longitudinal balance) of the skier.

Thus, assessing your physical and technical capabilities(or their shortcomings), you can roughly understand what shape, size and stiffness your first skis should be, it is important, of course, to understand in what conditions you will ride. Many are mistaken, assuming to find an all-rounder for all occasions in the mountains, and beginners also want to do it the first time. Blessed are those who believe.

Our top 10 freeride beginner skis

A selection of skis for this season. Some are already in stores and on the website, others are on the way and will be available soon.

Complete immersion in your favorite topic - the right skis allow you to get indescribable pleasure from freeride.

If you're new to freeriding, you'll find a lot of useful information, which will definitely help with the choice of the next pair.

• How to choose the right freeride skis
• One or two couples
• If the manufacturer is already familiar
• • Where do you ride
  • Preferences
• • length
  • width
  • rocker/camber
  • hardness/softness
  • radius
• Price
• Models of yesteryear
• Skis for freeride boo

To choose skis for freeride with a minimum of surprises, you need to ride off-piste for several years on different models.

Then it will be possible to use the experience of rolling over past years.

Without it, the choice will be like pointing a finger at the sky or a lottery, be prepared for this.

To begin with, we will go through the theoretical part, then we will take the skis for tests, and then we will make a decision on the purchase.

What is freeride skiing

To answer the question, what is freeride, I wrote, read it if you are just starting.

Now let's divide the class of freeride skiing into two large parts, in which there are subcategories:

• Exclusively for powder (deep snow)
• Universal

Alpine skis for powder provide maximum surfing pleasure in the snow and are completely unsuitable for skiing on trails.

Freeride in deep powder

These are skis with a waist width of 110-115 mm and a minimum camber (if you put the ski on the floor, then there will be no clearance under the mount).

Freeride alpine skis with a waist of 95-105 mm are usually compromise options. They have characteristics that allow you to enjoy including skiing on the slopes.

I ski 70-90 days a season in Krasnaya Polyana, where there is a lot of fluffy snow. And yet I prefer a waist of 106 mm - if the powder falls out, then its nearest reserves quickly roll out, and there is not always time for long trips.

Therefore, skis with a waist of more than 115 mm are only suitable for those who can afford to constantly ski in deep snow (heli-skiing), or they can become a second pair (which will be an additional load in luggage).

How Right choose skis for freeride

I've heard it before and I confirm it today The best way choose skis for freeride (and not only) - test before buying.

In large resorts, this is not a problem at all - decent rentals, such as Riders Test & Rent at the Rosa Khutor resort or Ryder in Sheregesh, with great pleasure will let you test different models for one day at no extra charge.

I did this more than once in these rentals, I'm sure that others go for it. In addition to setting up bindings, I received useful recommendations on which model for this type of snow is most suitable now.

I did the same in the resorts of Europe and the USA, for example, Aspen.

So if it’s not buzzing in one place to spend time as soon as possible, then test it. After riding four models through the Sheregesh forests, I realized that only one (of the tested ones) was most suitable for that area - that day it was the K2 Hell Bent.

One or two couples

Having several pairs of freeride skis is cool, but not practical. If you go for a ride in a car, then you can throw several models into the roof rack.

Then in the morning, going out into the street, there will be a royal privilege to pull out the most suitable ski from a personal rack and burn it without compromise.

However, I broke down from having to constantly move downstairs to change shoes - it was a waste of time.

Today I have two freeride models - one 106mm, the other 115mm. I ride more on the first, on the second I go out when the mountains are really covered with snow.

If the manufacturer is already familiar

I used to ride Seth Morrison K2 models for a while. I just bought the same model, only a fresh year, and didn't worry too much about the little changes that were made to the design.

In general, the skis were predictable.

Ski selection based on popularity/reviews

Every year, a huge number of tests of alpine skiing are carried out on our planet. Including for freeride:

• Powder magazine tests
• Freeskier magazine tests

Conducted by shops and publications, brands and individuals. You can summarize the results and see that those who tested liked this or that model more than others.

But whether you like it is the big question. Therefore, the feelings of those who test, strongly depend on their experience of riding. And for the tests, people are selected, although not always, who can really understand what they have fastened to their legs, and say something intelligible about them.

Let's take this review as an example. Waist at 114 already says that they are for deep snow, broken snow can be rolled, but it is better to choose an option with a narrower waist.

"Not ideal conditions”, Apparently, it means that the skis are rolling ... on broken virgin soil or a broken track? It's not very clear here.

Good ride and buoyancy - I can only guess, but not sure.

The model took 5th place in the tests, but this one is the first:

It can be seen that the relative indicators differ in short arcs and power, otherwise they are similar. I can make an assumption that the winner is better controlled at low speeds, but again I thought about power.

Tests, rather, alert the market that new models have appeared, so reviews are a formality, and not help in choosing.

How not to choose the right skis for freeride

If tests are not available, then we will choose alpine skiing for freeride remotely, taking into account several factors.

Freeride skill level

If you do not have a lot of off-piste experience, then you should not choose wide skis over 110 mm. The chances are that you will spend your first years a short distance from the slopes, where the freshly fallen snow rolls quite quickly.

Here, station wagons are more suitable for you, for example, Salomon QST 106, with a waist of 106 mm.

How to choose skis for freeride - Salomon QST 106

Where do you ride

In this section, we honestly answer the question: in what conditions do you ride most of the time.

For example, I go to Kirovsk (Khibiny) once a year. There is almost no deep snow in Kirovsk due to strong winds. Drops a lot, but quickly blows away. Therefore, it is pointless to carry wide skis to these mountains.

The same can be said about the suburban or St. Petersburg slides.

In the Kirov Khibiny, the snow is always dense and shallow.

Just remember the terrain you've been riding the last couple of years (if you have any) and draw a conclusion.

Preferences

If you ride (and do not think you ride) aggressively, then you should choose freeride skis in the Big Mountains or Big Mountains category.

In such skis, the waist can be 100-110, the presence of a camber and a stiffness above average are mandatory (it’s a pity that you can’t use my stiffness scale, everyone has their own).

True, if you ride really extreme, i.e. not the first year, then you yourself know what characteristics should be sewn up in your next model.

Selection of skis for freeride according to technical characteristics

Skis have characteristics and parameters, and their behavior depends on them. So in addition to how you stand on your skis, what conditions you ride in, they will affect the level of driving pleasure of these jokes.

In the past, when there was less technology - cambers, composites, rockers - the values ​​we are moving to had a pronounced effect on the behavior of skis.

Today, when choosing skis for freeride, innovations must be taken into account.

Length

If we go skiing in open areas where you can pick up speed, I take skis that are larger than my height (184 cm). The larger the size, the more stable the skis are when skiing.

If we go to the forest, then we need controllability at low and medium speeds, so I take skis in height or less.

Width

If you ride in deep snow quickly, then the width becomes not so important - at speed, the skis swim closer to the surface, and do not sink.

If the snow is deep and you want to jump on the bumps at a slow pace - the larger the waist (and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skis), the better.

If visibility is poor, and there is a lot of snow, the waist is wide, the ski is smaller or taller. In such conditions, there will be nowhere to accelerate, so again we take wide skis.

An example of a deep snow freestyle ski is the Movement Fly 125:

Rocker / camber

The rocker helps the skis to float (and in broken snow, even on slopes, it does not allow you to dig in your nose and protects you from falls).

The rocker can start from the center of the ski or towards the end. If the rocker is closer to the ends of the skis, then there is a camber in the center.

If you put the skis on the floor, then the gap between the floor and the ski in the center indicates the presence of a camber.

The larger the camber, the more stable the ski is at high speed and the harder it is to control when skiing slowly, for example, in the forest.

The larger the rocker (the maximum starts from the center of the ski, in this case there is no camber), the easier it is to turn off-piste. Such skis, with a large width and relative size for each rider, I use for off-piste freestyle - jumps and tricks on virgin soil.

How to choose skis for freeride - rocker

Hardness / softness

The flex plus camber makes freeride skis even more stable at high speeds and harder to turn at low speeds.

If you are surfing non-aggressively in deep fluffy soft snow in the forest, then it is better to choose soft skis with a large rocker.

Rigidity (not longitudinal) is different for each, and it is known in comparison. With experience, bending the ski in the center with your hands, you can understand how stiff it is for a particular rider, and not for everyone skiing on the mountain.

Radius

In this case, the usual rules apply: small radius (for example, 15 meters) - it is easier to make short turns; large radius (25 meters) - the arcs will be wide, the track may not be wide enough for one full turn.

If skiing will take place exclusively off-piste, but it will not be possible to put skis on the edge (turns are performed by dropping skis), then the radius is not so important.

Alpine skiing for freeride and ski touring

Off-piste skiing can be combined with ski touring. Then you can reach the peaks without taking off your skis. And don't drown in deep snow.

Bindings on ski touring skis allow, when moving up, to tear off the heel of the boot, as on cross-country skis. In this case, walking becomes more natural, and the ascent is faster.

Choosing skis for freeride - skis for ski touring

This is a nascent class of skis that a) need to be light so as not to drag excess weight when moving up, b) stiff enough to confidently control the skis on the descent.

Classic skis for ski touring are not designed for descents (just to go down), because the main task- Get to the top faster.

Freeriders have a different priority - descents in deep snow. But the question of how to get to the cherished peaks remained open until they saw the Skiturists.

From that moment on, the evolution of alpine skiing began, on which it would be possible to climb higher and confidently descend.

There were two main problems with skis for ski touring: width and "snot". If the first was simply built up, then attempts to make the ski suitable for confident descents (add cruelty) led to an increase in weight.

But these issues are solved with lightweight synthetic materials, and today there are excellent skis on the market that are both light and stiff.

An example of such skis: DPS Wailer 106 Tour 1.

Freeride Skiing Examples

Freeride Alpine Skis - Head Core 117

Liberty Origin 116

Freeride Alpine Skis - Liberty Origin 116

Rossignol Super 7 HD

Freeride skis - Rossignol Super 7 HD

Price

The cost of skiing for freeride depends on many factors.

New models of the last season cost 40,000 - 60,000 rubles, sometimes more, but this is rather an exception. If you take a new one of the same model, but from previous years (which may differ only in graphics), then the price will drop by 20-40 percent.

In the example below, one of the most popular freeride models is Atomic Bent Chetler with a 40 percent discount. Since the model was a success, the manufacturer does not play with fire and major changes not included in the design.

This means that when you buy these skis, you get the model of the new season, only with the old graphics. Of course, this is not a rule, the time comes, and the model becomes obsolete, but this does not threaten these skis yet.

Discounted freeride skis

If you are calm about boo skis, then you can find Avito at half the price and below.

In the latter case, there will definitely be a question of the condition of the model and the compatibility of the bindings and your boots, as well as the sufficiency of the DIN range for your weight.

We pop up

What a pleasure it is to choose ski equipment! And, of course, freeride skiing is no exception. It's like ordering a new dish at your favorite restaurant where everything is delicious.

Finally. I would first read about the latest skis in this class on the Internet, then go to ski shops with a wide range (different brands may be in different stores), talk to consultants, but don’t buy, no matter how my hands burn to burn money.

Instead - tests of vending models in the mountains. After that, we summarize: do the expectations after viewing the skis match the results after the test skiing.

If yes, then we take it, if not, then we get experience - not everything that glitters is gold.

And now we are leaving for the surface - the next dive of the bathyscaphe Powder has come to an end.

If one hike was not enough, then here's more on the topic of freeride:

Extreme descent through unprepared areas, often far from the ski slopes, attracts many. Freeride does not have a single school. It combines many directions, styles, types of skating with its philosophy. Riders say that freeride is skiing when you feel complete freedom, unity with the mountain slope, no restrictions.

The wild slope is not a place for beginners and ski trips with baby. Riders must have good sportswear, skating skills in various weather conditions, experience in choosing the terrain, properly planned route.

Freeride - what is it?

According to the method of delivering an athlete to the summit, there are three types:

1. Lightweight, on a lift, if ski resort has special places for freeriders.
2. Backcountry (skitouring) is the most popular way, which involves hiking on skis to the selected peak.
3. Heli-ski - delivery by helicopter.

In terms of riding style, carving and freestyle stand out in it.

Carving is an exciting high-speed ride, the difference of which is the passage of turns without loss of speed, 180-degree turns and even carved circular turns.

Freestyle - performing complex tricks while descending a mountain slope, using various obstacles of natural or artificial origin.

Do you need special skis for freeride?

Skiing on ready-made ski slopes differs in many ways from freeriding. Therefore, equipment, inventory and requirements for the level of skating for these varieties skiing will be different.

The best skis for freeride are chosen depending on:

• relief and steepness of the mountain slope;
• snow depth;
• preferred riding technique.

Special design features

In the design of the ski for freeride, the width of the canvas is increased, and the profile is endowed with rockers. Rocker is a reverse deflection that allows the ski to emerge from the snow while maintaining high maneuverability. The deeper the layer of loose snow, the higher and longer the rocker should be. Three parameters characterize the rocker:

• location (nose, tail or just the nose);
• lifting height from the surface (in millimeters);
• rocker length (in centimeters).

The increased width of the ski bed allows you to ride confidently without falling through, while maintaining good control on unprepared slopes covered with loose snow.

To understand how to choose freeride skis, you need to know what slopes they are intended for. Conventionally, they can be divided into two types: directed or omnidirectional:

1. The directional design provides good longitudinal sliding. They give high stability when going downhill on a steep slope, require fast driving, large space, aimed at carving, carving, long turns.
2. Omnidirectional skis are designed for smoother riding on gentler slopes. They make it possible to actively maneuver, which is important when riding on areas with difficult terrain, many obstacles.

Powder (powder)

The dream of all skiers is to glide across the white virgin soil, the mountain slope covered with untouched, surprisingly soft snow. Translated from English, the word powder means powder, powder, light loose snow.

The main difference between the powder equipment is the increased width, which allows to reduce the pressure on the snow and the small radius of the sidecut.

Station wagons (all mountain)

The rider must feel equally confident on a snowy slope, on areas covered with crust packed to icy hardness, on a broken track and maneuvering between natural obstacles: trees, stones, pits. Skiers who are not sharpened only for powder skiing choose station wagons. All mountain skiing is very popular in our country, where, despite the huge number of slopes of varying steepness, it is difficult to find ideal conditions for powder.

How to choose freeride skis?

Marking on alpine skis for freeride includes 5 main parameters:

• nose width;
• waist width;
• heel width;
• length;
• sidecut radius.

Usual indicators for powder skiing: nose up to 150, heel up to 140, waist up to 120 mm. At the same time, the cutout radius is rather small, and in cases where it is supposed to ride in very deep snow, it may be completely absent. Rocker on such equipment is pronounced 500-700 mm.

For station wagons, the standard waist width is 75-95 mm, the side cutout is 13-19 m. The rocker is more gentle 300 mm. With these parameters, the rider will feel equally good on broken ski slopes or on a wild slope with a snow depth of up to 20-30 cm.

Carving skis have a large sidecut, narrow waist, wide nose and heel.

And for freestyle, you need shorter, softer and wider skis, with long and high rockers at the toe and heel. This will allow you not to stop moving, landing backwards after jumping.

Lenght and width

The optimal ratio of length and width is determined by the technique of freeride skiing. Short, wide ones allow better maneuvering at low speeds, the higher the descent speed, the less maneuverability, the narrower and longer the inventory.

The width can be in the range from 90 to 135 mm. The choice depends on the skiing conditions, the larger the layer of loose snow, the wider the skis should be. The denser the snow cover, the higher the sliding speed, the smaller the width should be chosen.

When choosing a length, one should take into account the height, level of skiing of the skier. For training, beginner riders are recommended a length equal to height, plus 10-15 cm. The longer the skis, the easier it is to maintain the stability of the direction of movement at speed.

Notch Radius

The cut radius determines the angle of rotation. The larger it is, the wider the arc, more stability at high speeds. So for sharp, short turns, you need to choose skis with a radius of 11-12 m, and for virgin land more than 20 m. During the training period, it is better to select universal skis with a radius of 13-15 m. It is easy to make both short and long turns on them.

Rigidity and weight deflection

The parameters of torsional stiffness and weight deflection are important only with an aggressive driving style, downhill. The higher the indicators of these parameters, the more clearly it will turn out to lay carved turns. On slopes without preparation, soft, wide skis are easier to manage than narrow, hard ones.

Overview and comparison of manufacturers and prices

Rossignol is a leader in the production of premium ski equipment. Universal Rossignol skis are represented by the EXPERIENCE men's line and the TEMPTATION women's line.

ATOMIC products are designed for athletes of all skill levels, from beginners to professionals. The use of ARC technology increases the elasticity of the ski, which is extremely important for grip on the slope. The company produces not only unisex products. Lines such as Affinity are designed specifically for skiers.

The French company Black Crows is distinguished by the fact that it produces products in small batches using manual assembly.

The Swiss ski brand Movement declares the principle of creation by riders for riders. The use of rare wood made it possible to make the weight lower than that of analogues. And the refusal of the company to spend on advertising allows you to keep lower prices.

Salomon's motto is to make riding even more exciting. The constant introduction of new technologies, the search for innovative materials make it achievable. Volkl skis are made from modern materials. The creation process comes at low temperatures and lasts longer than required by the standards.

Prices for the models of the brands presented in the review are in a wide range from 20,000 rubles to 2,000 dollars. Moreover, the cost of a pair depends not only on the quality characteristics and brand, but also on the year of manufacture. The older the model, the lower its price.

Riding away from civilization gives an adrenaline rush, a complete feeling of freedom, happiness. But while enjoying, we must not forget about the risks: an avalanche, loss of route, inability to get medical care in case of injury. Therefore, you must not neglect the safety rules, be sure to wear a helmet, goggles, special protection, have an avalanche transceiver, a walkie-talkie, a shovel, use the services of experienced guides.