Selection of ski boots. How to choose ski boots (complete guide). The influence of the sport and the place of skiing

How to choose ski boots according to stiffness.

In this video we will talk about the stiffness of ski boots.

The main difference between ski boots is their stiffness. We will not go into the physical expression of this indicator, we will only say that the stiffness of the boot is indicated by an index that is present in the name of almost all ski boots. The higher the number, the more rigid the boot. It is conventionally accepted to consider boots with an index of 50-90 soft, 90-115 medium and over 115 hard. There are also models with slightly variable stiffness.

The stiffer the boot, the better it provides the transfer of force from the foot to the ski, but the comfort of the foot suffers, on the contrary, the softer the boot, the more comfortable it is, but the transfer of force is worse.

Thus, the choice of ski boots can be called a search for a compromise between comfort and efficiency. The stiffness of the boots must be selected taking into account the weight of the skier and his level of training.

For male beginners or lightweight skiers, this figure may be somewhat less - 70-90 or 50-70 for slender girls. But if your weight is approaching 100 kg, we strongly do not recommend taking boots with a stiffness of less than 100.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the stiffness index of ski boots, declared by the manufacturer, does not always correspond to the expected sensations. It only serves as a guide in the selection. That's why Special attention when choosing shoes, you need to pay attention to fitting!

A lot of questions need to be resolved and understood before buying shoes for skiing everyone, especially newbies.

To comfortably ski and progress quickly, you need to choose the right ski boots. Properly selected shoes will help you quickly master correct technique skiing and allow better control of the skis.

Choosing the size of ski boots

This is one of the key parameters when choosing.

The size is indicated in centimeters (CM), which often causes bewilderment and stupor. For an approximate translation into the usual sizes, you can use.

To narrow the search area, you need to measure the length and width of the foot in millimeters before going to the store. Or in the store ask for a special measuring device for the feet. This will allow you to immediately go to the fitting of the most suitable models.

How to put on ski boots correctly?

So, you came to the store or ordered delivery. But you also need to know how to properly try on shoes.

How to put on and take off your ski boot

Check if you have taken all the paper out of the shoe. It often happens that the last lump is left in the shoe, and for some reason it turns out to be small.
Unfasten all clips. It is worth remembering that the clips tend to cling and fasten.
With one hand, grasp the tongue and pull it in inside, and with the other hand, pull the opposite wall of the boot to the outside of the leg, opening the boot. For example, for the right boot, it will look like this: with the left hand we pull the tongue to the left, with the right hand we pull the right wall of the boot to the right.
Insert the foot into the open boot and check that the tongue goes snugly along the leg and does not wrinkle.
Fasten the boot, starting at the bottom clip and going up. First, you should easily fasten all the clips, and only then tighten them one by one.
Stand up and “push through” the boot several times with all your weight. To do this, you need to lean forward, the lower leg should press hard on the tongue of the boot, while the heel should not come off the floor.
Tighten the boot after it has completely sat down on the leg, but do not overtighten the leg, it should not become numb.

When trying on, it is necessary to build on the fact that the boot should sit as tightly as possible on the leg and not cause pain. This is not a normal shoe, don't expect the comfort of running shoes.

Feelings in the legs buttoned up boot right size :

Legs upright thumb must touch the toe of the boot.
In the “loaded” position (tilt forward, press the shin on the tongue of the boot) - the thumb does not touch or touches the front wall very slightly.
The foot should not dangle left and right.

If the thumb always rests or even bends - the boot is too small for you, try the next size. And if in the vertical position of the lower leg the finger does not reach the sock, the boot is great.

How many pairs of ski boots to measure?

Here the myth is that you need to measure 10-20 pairs of shoes, and you need to walk in each pair for a couple of hours in order to understand exactly that they suit you.

Firstly, after the 2-3rd pair, you will no longer feel the difference due to the fact that the leg gets tired.

Secondly, boots are not designed for walking and there is no need to walk in them for hours.

If the shoe is for you does not cause pain and tightly wraps around the entire leg - you can stop and purchase.

Shoe width

In addition to size, ski boots differ in the width and shape of the last. Therefore, do not despair if the first boot put on puts pressure on the bone on the side of the leg or the foot dangles freely in the boot with the bottom clips fully fastened.

In addition to the comfort of the foot, the last affects the control of the ski, so sports boots are always narrow (even at the expense of comfort).

Amateur boots usually have a last of 100-110 mm, while sports shoes can have a last of less than 90 mm.

When trying on, pay attention to the fact that the foot cannot dangle left and right inside the boot. For the amateur level, this will be enough.

Choosing the stiffness of ski boots

The second most important parameter when choosing shoes after size is stiffness. Designated from 0 to 140, in 99% of cases it is present in the name of the boot model (Salomon X Pro 90, Rossignol Alltrack 80).

Rigidity mainly affects the degree of power transfer from the skier to the ski. The stiffer the boot, the “sharper” it is possible to feel and control the ski, but the feeling of comfort of the boot is less.

However, lately, all manufacturers have been very closely involved in the comfort of hard boots. Therefore, there is no strong difference in comfort between boots of the same line of low and high stiffness.

Choosing the stiffness of ski boots should be based on:

Weight and height of the skier.
Skating skills and desire to progress.

Influence of the height and weight of the skier on the choice of stiffness

By your weight, you can determine the “initial” stiffness, that is, the one from which you need to start choosing the first boots.

Correction for height and weight is basically what you need to do when buying your first boots. On all the following pairs, you will already understand what you want from the boot. Therefore, this item is most important for beginners.

For the average person, average height and not obese recommended stiffness = your weight plus 0-10 points.

For example, a girl of 150 cm, 50 kg is suitable for a stiffness of 50-60. And for a man 180 cm and 80 kg boots with an index of 80-90.

With an increase in height, the length of the lever for applying force to the boot changes, so the correction for height should be done as follows:

If you above average height, then it's worth add 10 points to the stiffness index you got from your weight.
If below – subtract 10 points.

The influence of the level of riding on the choice of rigidity

Conventionally, the stiffness of boots can be distributed according to the level of skiing as follows.

Table of correspondence between the stiffness of ski boots and the level of skiing

There is a myth that beginners need "soft" boots, that it is easier to start skiing this way. And "hard" boots are intended only for professionals.

This is not true. You need to understand your physical fitness and desire to progress.

At the moment, all amateur models of boots are quite comfortable, regardless of stiffness. And manufacturers advise to buy shoes in a tougher way.

For example, you are a beginner man, and in accordance with the table, shoes with a hardness of 60 to 90 are suitable for you. Here it is worth making an allowance for physical fitness and the desire to progress.

You are physically strong, even athletic - take boots 10-20 points of stiffness higher. This will allow you to progress faster and more, because there will always be enough rigidity.

If your goal on the slope is communication, gatherings in a cafe with a group of friends, A sports achivments far from number one then take the most comfortable, because it is unlikely that the potential of the boot will be fully revealed.

The choice of ski boots according to the style of skiing

In general, all ski boots are similar in shape at first glance. But riding styles have their own requirements for boots. Therefore, manufacturers make lines of boots that best suit a particular style of riding. You can identify them in the manufacturer's catalog or by the following features.

Sports- hard and narrow boots with a large inclination of the top forward, one-piece plastic thick sole. 4 clips and a wide belt. Designed for maximum transfer of effort at the expense of comfort.

Ordinary- medium forward lean, medium stiffness, comfortable boot width, sometimes rubberized sole with a small tread.

Universal (all mountain)- have features that make long walks in boots easier, such as walking / skiing switch, rubberized outsole with WTR tread, stiffening ribs to make the boot lighter.

Freeride and backcountry- often only 3 clips, improved boot insulation, walking / skiing mode, outsole with tread, holes and grooves for ski bindings.

Park boots - 2-3 clips, medium hardness and shock-absorbing inserts.

ski boot molding

When choosing a boot, remember that after purchase it is desirable to mold them. Those. precisely adjusted to a specific foot using special technology.

After all, it is impossible to foresee in advance how littered the foot is, the size of the protrusion of the knuckles, the exact shape of the foot, etc. In addition, these parameters of the left and right foot may differ.

Different shoes have different molding technology.

Thermoforming outer boot

To begin with, it is worth determining whether the shoe is moldable or unformable.

At the moment, almost all boots support molding, with the exception of very cheap models. The only difference is the molding technology.

Exactly thermoformed shoes include models made of special plastic:

Atomic Memory Fit
Salomon Custom Shell
Fischer Vacuum

Also, boots from other manufacturers have the possibility of thermoforming.

Conventional thermoforming

Consists of 3 stages:

Heating the outer plastic boot in a special oven,
Putting on a heated boot on the foot.
Cooling down in correct position legs.

As a result, the boot expands in places where there is excessive pressure on the foot from the inside of the boot.

Fischer Vacuum

Almost repeats conventional thermoforming. The only difference is the cooling process. The boot worn on the foot is placed in a chamber where the external air pressure on the boot is increased.

Thermoforming Fischer Vacuum

As a result, the boot expands in places where the pressure of the foot from the inside and narrows in places where the pressure of the foot from the inside is not enough.

Fischer claims this is the best technology available.

Inner shoe molding

Internals are also moldable And unshaped.

The fit of the liner is to use thermoformable foam or to fill the liner with foam personally after purchase.

Standard liners are heat molded at the same time as the outer boot, but the degree of fit depends on the number of thermoformed layers (pictured above).

Atomic Redster Foam Liner

The Atomic Redster Foam Liner is molded according to a completely different technology: we put on the liner and boot, fasten it, fill the liner with special foam. After drying, we get a perfectly fitting inner boot.

ski boot construction

In general, different ski boots are similar to each other and inherit the basic details and principles when they are created.

Clasps

They work on the same principle on all boots: clips (sometimes called "buckles") cling to the comb and tighten. They differ only in shape and adjustment possibilities.

Clips are made of various materials: plastic, aluminum, different alloys. All of them are reliable enough for the corresponding purpose of the boot.

It is worth paying attention to:

The wide handle will be comfortable with gloves.
The ability to adjust the position of the comb without and with the tool will allow you to most accurately fit the boot to your foot. These are additional holes for the comb bolt.
Micro-adjustment of the upper clips will allow you to more accurately adjust the degree of tightening. It looks like the ability to unscrew the clip.
Micro-adjustment in the lower leg will be very useful, but it does not happen on all models.
Opening protection is only needed for sports models so that the boot does not open when touching the poles.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the technology of fasteners on top HEAD models.

Double Power - An additional lever on the clip makes it easier to tighten the boot.
Spine Tech and Spine Flex - better distribute the load on the comb.

Belt

Strap with Velcro or metal buckle at the very top of the outer boot. Designed to maximize the transfer of force to the boot.

Varies in width. A wide belt better fixes the shin in the boot and allows better transfer of force.

Freeride and park boots with 2-3 clips, as well as sports boots have a wide strap
Regular boots have a medium-width strap.
Children have the narrowest strap or they are not equipped at all.

Belt width ranges from 20 to 70 mm.

ski boot sole

There are 3 sole standards:

DIN (ISO 5355)– standard normal shoes. Sports shoes are also made on it. Plastic straight outsole. On sports models, it is one-piece and increased in height, which must be ground down for a specific athlete.

Touring (ISO 9523)- the standard for ski touring boots. The sole is higher, there are holes for TLT mounts (holes in the toe on the sides and a special groove at the back), a deep rubber tread, roundings in the toe and heel for “rolling” when walking.

WTR (Walk-to-Ride)- a kind of intermediate option between DIN and Touring. Used on All-Mountain boots. A rubberized tread is characteristic, but the height is less than that of touring ones.

Don't forget to check if the boots fit your ski bindings.

Walk/Ride Switch

Allows you to get additional boot travel when walking. All-mountain, freeride and backcountry boots are equipped with this switch.

The technology is very convenient during a long hike in boots. Walking in such boots is much more comfortable than without such technology.

When skiing on a groomed slope with lifts absolutely not needed.

Insulation for ski boots

How quickly feet get cold in boots is influenced by 3 factors:

The warmth of the sock.
The thickness and insulation of the inner boot.
Whether the boot will be pulled or not.

Often the feet can freeze from the fact that the shoes are overstretched and the blood flow is disturbed. Or you stand upright for a long time when the calf is crushed and the blood flow is also disturbed.

Ordinary cotton or wool socks are not recommended because they do not properly wick moisture away from the foot.

Ski socks always indicate how warm they are. Accordingly, it is worth wearing a sock suitable for a specific temperature.

The inner boot is insulated mainly due to the thickness of the foam from which it is made. It is worth remembering that the thickness of the foam may vary in different areas of the boot. In addition, sports boots always have a thinner liner than regular boots for better power transmission.

On some models you can find electric heating. Don't forget to charge these boots.

Pay attention to:

Insulated zones - only fingers or lower leg can be insulated.
Velvet layer for added warmth
Is there a separate layer of insulation (for example, 3M Thinsulate).
Presence of heating.

Which brand to choose?

Currently, you should not pay much attention to the manufacturer when choosing shoes. That is why the paragraph is at the end of the article.

Each manufacturer has different lines of boots that have different lasts and different “buns”. Start from what exactly you want to get from the boot.

In addition, boots and skis from different manufacturers are almost always compatible (remember the soles).

ski boots price

The price of ski boots directly depends on the number of options and technologies used in the boot, as well as the stiffness of the boot.

The stiffer and more fancy the boot, the more expensive. And vice versa.

In this article, I do not consider cheap or expensive worth buying, because this is a personal matter.

Outcome

The sequence for choosing a boot comes down to the following 4 points:

Pick the right size and fit.
Choose the stiffness of the boot.
Decide on the features and options you need.
Make the mold as you wish.

Discount store with low prices and a good selection - dfsport.ru.
A huge network of ski shops - sportmaster.ru, alpindustria.ru.

And I'm very interested, did the article help you in choosing? Do I need to cover something else on this topic or did I make mistakes? Write in the comments!

Skis are changed regardless of their degree of wear - sometimes, following fashion trends or in pursuit of technically improved models.

Boots, as a rule, serve for a long time until their degree of wear begins to approach critical. Therefore, they are selected with all seriousness, taking not external attractiveness as the basis of choice, but functionality and reliability confirmed by the manufacturer.

Rigidity, first of all, is characterized as a criterion for choosing ski boots.

There are several functions of ski shoes:

Ensuring rigidity when fixing ski boots in the mount with skis, which helps to increase maneuverability in movement during the descent, due to their tight contact;
Maintaining comfort (warmth, convenience).

How to choose the stiffness of ski boots?

The choice of boots determines the skier's skill level and downhill skiing technique. The main indicator when choosing them is such a criterion as stiffness. It is defined for ski boots by the parameter "Flex index" (indicator of flexibility) and has an index from 30 to 160 conventional units. Flex index shows how much force is needed to bend the boot by 1 degree (in Newtons).

The more rigid the boot, the easier the skis "obey" the owner, because in such a system they are practically a monolith, where a person can change direction, transferring the center of gravity of his body from one foot to another.

Rigidity is distributed as follows, based on the experience of the skier and his body weight:

From 30 to 60 - ski shoes for beginner amateur athletes and for children;
From 40 to 80 - an indicator for the average level of experience of skiers;
From 60 to 90 - boots for experienced athletes;
From 90 to 120 - an indicator for professionals;
From 120 to 160 - this stiffness of boots for professional skiers taking part in competitions.

Alpine skiing training begins only in ski equipment with low stiffness. High results and difficult tasks are not yet needed. At this stage, it is necessary to master the simplest skills of descent. Boots with higher performance are designed for skiers with some experience, sliding along the slope quite easily.

Useful article:
How to choose ski boots?
A guide to choosing the perfect ski shoe for you. Tips on what to pay attention to when choosing ski boots and how not to fall for the tricks of a seller who is only interested in selling paraphernalia?

What is the rigidity of ski boots?

The structure of modern ski boots is complex. There is no need to adjust them from the average size to the required one or wear several pairs of woolen socks so that the foot "sits" tightly in the boot and at the same time feels comfortable.

The boot consists of:

An external plastic boot equipped with several fasteners (clips);
The clips help to fix the foot in the boot even more rigidly, which will not be out of place in boots with low rigidity;
Lacing - some types of "soft" boots are equipped with it, as a rule, for children;
Inner boot. It acts as a wool sock and is designed to keep the skier warm and comfortable for as long as possible. It can be disposable, replaceable and permanent, depending on the shoe manufacturer.

How to choose...

Acquaintance with mountain skiing begins with ski boots. By right, this is the first thing you have to put on before you get on your skis. Therefore, in the store, it is better to approach the choice of skis, being shod. The process of choosing shoes is very interesting and somewhat tedious, but it is a necessary part of the quest. It must be understood that skiing is quite an extreme discipline, especially for beginners, and at first you will have to suffer. But already on the slope you will be rewarded for your patience. In general, about everything in order.

What is a ski boot?

A ski boot is a plastic construction that is a link between the skier's foot and the ski mount, which protects against external negative factors and is responsible for transferring force to the ski. Somewhat heavy and rigid construction, simply consisting of an outer plastic boot and an inner soft boot. Metal-plastic clips with buckles, located on the outer boot, serve to fix the entire structure on the leg. By its nature, this equipment is quite specific and very personalized, which will subsequently become in the full sense only yours, get used to your anatomy, physical fitness and, to some extent, your skating technique. If for you the slopes of the mountains and ski slopes each time they become more and more practical, then over time it will be easier for you to “fasten” into other skis than to “stand up” into other boots. Hence the conclusion: we do not recommend a long ride in a rental, or someone else's shoes.

What are they?

When you enter the store and see the entire range of boots for the first time, you will probably say that they are “different”. And you will be right. But all this set can be reduced to one denominator and conditionally divided into groups, of which there are not so many. Ski boots, like any footwear, are:

Where will you ride? The question in the case of newcomers is rhetorical. Where they will ride - everyone knows. This is not a geographic reference or the name of the resort, but an indication of the type of slope: whether it is prepared or not, a paved track with lifts or something off-piste (freeride) with piles of - perhaps - untouched snow, mounds and other difficulties. So, for beginners - only on the track, to the instructors in the paws. From here we distinguish three more types:

Trail ski boots- classic ski boots, consisting of a solid lower base ("shell"), connected to a sliding upper cuff (shaft), as well as three, and more often four buckle clips and an upper wide tie tape ("strap"). Inside all this is a soft boot. They are designed in 99% of cases only for skiing, so this design must carry with it a certain rigidity. These are used by both beginners and skiers-athletes on prepared (“travelled”) tracks.
All-mountain off-piste boots- they are also called freeride or backcountry boots, they are a specialized continuation of trail boots, but with an emphasis on the fact that they still have to go often, for example, up the slope and ride on soft snow. Some features already follow from here: three clip-on clips are standard, a “walking-skating” switch on the back of the boots, the presence of a sole, they are not narrow, they are relatively soft to bend. Relatively speaking, in these boots you can ride on the slopes and use as your first ones.
Boots for the "park"- saw a wild youth performing various tricks on a special track: jumps, flips, slips? So they ride in “park” boots - shoes that have also evolved from trail shoes. Their entire design is not aimed at holding in a turn and speed of force transfer, but, first of all, at ease of separation and clarity of landing. This shoe is not recommended for beginners.

What is your weight and riding level? The question is very popular when choosing, in principle, any ski equipment, including boots. People of different skiing levels and weights will "load" the ski in different ways, that is, different efforts will fall on, let's say, the boot design. The term “rigidity” appears, and rigidity must be measured with something. So, we can conditionally distinguish three categories of shoes:

Soft
medium hardness
Rigid

No two legs are the same. Manufacturers of any shoe strive to cover all imaginable sizes and shapes of feet. In the case of ski boots, it can be noted that to standard sizes the width of the foot (width of the shoe) is also added. As a rule, when it comes to an adult, they use a range of 95-110 mm. The width is taken as the distance between the metatarsus of the foot in its front part. Therefore, they say that a ski boot in size 44 and stiffness 120 has a last width of 102 mm. All three parameters are equally important. Not only the comfort and fit of the leg depends on this, but also the speed of transfer of force to the ski. Infrequently there are problems (corns, chafing, crushing, hypothermia) if your boots fit your feet. People who have some exclusivity in terms of their feet: flat feet, prominent bones, high instep, wide heels, should approach the choice of boots even more carefully, at this stage they will need the help of bootfitters.

Boot construction

Ski boots have a fairly simple design, although, at first glance, they are bulky and clumsy. First of all, it's two in one. The boot consists of a durable "outer" and a soft "inner"; clips, a strap, a sole are added to the first, an insole is added to the second.

Outer boot

It is the supporting element of the entire structure. It is made of impact-resistant plastic, not subject to noticeable changes at low temperatures. The entire load force of the skier falls on the outer boot, transferring his effort through ski binding on the ski itself. It consists, in turn, of two parts connected by means of a hinge to each other. Bottom part, rigid and motionless among skiers is called galoshes, soap dishes or shells. This is a molded plastic cup, which is the base of the entire boot. The sole is attached to it from below. The second part is attached from above - this is the "cuff". Depending on the stiffness of the entire boot, it is able to move back and forth under some pressure. Only with the cuff open can you put the boot on your leg. The properties of the plastic of a modern outer boot are such that, if desired, their owner can mold them in a special service to fit the geometry of their foot, that is, to make a more accurate fit.

Inner boot

He is a felt boot, boot, liner (liner) or just an liner, is responsible for the comfort and fit of the foot. Being filled with a porous material, it absorbs shocks and impacts coming from a hard outer boot. At the moment, there are at least three types of liners on the market: non-molding, molding, jellied. The difference between the last two and the first is quite striking. The main property of such liners is to remember the relief of the leg by filling in between it and the boot of excess volume. Only if some do this by heating a porous material, then others have a space inside filled with a special composition, which later hardens. You can heat it in a special oven - this is done by bootfitters, or with your own heat already in the process of skiing. Non-forming liner tends to wear out over time, it feels like the leg dangles in such liner and boots like a pencil in a glass. In addition, it is noted that they are relatively cold.

Insole

For people who know words like pronation and supination, choosing an insole can be a comparatively longer process. The foot in a fastened and adjusted boot should, for all its geometry, be in neutral position, that is, not be littered inward or outward. Otherwise, it affects the skating technique, and in the long run can lead to injuries to the musculoskeletal system. If you know that everything is in order with your feet, then the insoles that come with the boots will be enough for you. If on the contrary, we advise you to contact a specialist in a store who is engaged in fitting ski boots - bootfitting. He will help you choose and shape the insoles for your foot. Do not forget that there are heating insoles for those who suffer from cold. By means of a battery attached to the back of the boot and elements within the insole itself, they provide a gentle warmth that is sufficient to properly circulate blood in an immobile foot.

Sole

With the help of the sole of the boots, it is fastened into the ski mount. The sole can be replaceable, or it can be a continuation of the outer boot itself. Replacement seems to be a comparatively better option, since the sole has to be in contact with hard surfaces anyway, which wears it out. By replacing the sole, you prolong the life of the entire boot.

Clips, fasteners, buckles

There is only one essence - a mechanism that tightens the outer boot. Depending on the type of boot, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed. In most cases, fasteners must be metal for strength. On many models of boots, the buckles have a micro-adjustment of tension, which allows you to make the fit of the boot adequate to the requirements and conditions of skiing.

Strap

Wide band at the top of the boot that secures it to the mid-calf/calf area. The tape has Velcro.

Roll/Walk Switch Mechanism

Located on the back of the shoe. By raising or lowering the flag allows the cuff of the outer boot to flex sufficiently for walking or locks it in place for skiing. Available, as a rule, on all boots of the all-mountain category, sometimes present on trail models.

Canting

Lateral tilt mechanism for the upper part of the outer boot. It is located on the same axis with the hinge. It helps to bring the boot to a neutral position relative to the plane of the slope, or, in a simple way, corrects the clubfoot or internal deflection of the legs.

Recco Sensors

Passive type devices reflecting the signal to the radar of rescuers in the process of carrying out rescue operations when they get into an avalanche. They are small in size, so they are mounted in various elements of ski equipment, including boots.

Selection and fitting

Mondo	EURO	UK	US men's	US wmn's
20	33	1,5	-	-
20,5	34	2	-	-
21	34,5	2,5	-	-
21,5	35	3	-	5
22	35,5	3,5	-	5,5
22,5	36	4	4,5	6
23	37	4,5	5	6,5
23,5	37,5	5	5,5	7
24	38	5,5	6	7,5
24,5	39	6	6,5	8
25	40	6,5	7	8,5
25,5	40,5	7	7,5	9
26	41	7,5	8	9,5
26,5	42	8	8,5	10
27	43	8,5	9	10,5
27,5	43,5	9	9,5	11
28	44	9,5	10	11,5
28,5	44,5	10	10,5	12
29	45	10,5	11	13
29,5	45,5	11	11,5	13,5
30	46	11,5	12	-
30,5	47	12	13
31	48	13	14
31,5	50	14	15

If this is your first pair of boots, it's best to work closely with a sales assistant or boot fitter to fit your new boots as closely as possible to your foot. It is necessary to determine for yourself the purpose of skating and - which is better - general physical abilities. A competent specialist, before finding out the true size and shape of the leg, weight and level of skating, will definitely ask you about it.

Size (size): length and width

Before starting the entire fitting procedure, you will need to put on the exact socks in which you will ride. These are special socks that have the properties of support and rapid moisture removal, which helps to maintain comfort. They do not roll down, do not gather into an accordion, they are strong enough, depending on the conditions they have different thickness, height, and also contact zones. They will begin to find out the size.

Ski boot manufacturers use Mondo Size is the size equal to the length of your foot in centimeters. Remember that all measurements in the store are carried out using a special ruler. Mondo size is almost always indicated on the boot itself. Each Mondo size has analogues in the usual size chart.

A very important parameter is the width (last width) of the foot. It is measured in millimeters and, as a rule, is in the range of 95-110 mm. It is not always indicated on the boots. Guided by him, the models are divided into narrow and wide. Ski boots are always made for different lasts, i.e. for different widths of the foot, in exceptional cases there are those where, using a spacer mechanism, it can be increased by 1-2 mm. It is also important to know that the outer boot always has a whole size: 27.0, 28.0, but the thickness of the liner and insole is responsible for the "half". Also on the boot itself, you can see another dimensional value, for example 320 mm, is the length of the sole. When trying on this parameter is not needed, it will come in handy when setting up ski mounts.

Boot stiffness (Flex)

A parameter that measures the transfer of force from the skier through the boot to the ski binding. The higher it is, the stronger the force required to deflect the boot by a certain degree. It is measured by a numerical value (from 50 to 130), which is indicated on the shoes or their packaging. Boots from different manufacturers, but of the same stiffness, must be compared. According to this parameter, the boot is selected taking into account several terms: gender, weight, level of skiing, degree physical training. Here, when choosing, the help of a specialist is often required. It is important to understand that a beginner will not be able to bend hard boots and, as a result, keep himself on the slope in the arc of his own turn. Likewise with too soft shoes.

Fitting

The universal rule is that the fitting begins in the evening. At this time, the foot, slightly increasing during the day, acquires the size that will be characteristic of it after a few minutes of skiing on the slope. So:

We take out the liner and lower the foot into the outer boot, touching the front wall with the fingers. The remaining space between the heel and the back wall of the boot should include two fingers. If more, then this model is great for you, less - vice versa.
We take out the foot and put it on the inner shoe. We sit down and put on the outer. Tapping the heel of the boot on the floor so that the foot sits in it, we fasten all the clips and the strap. Clips, being fastened, should not hang out.
We get up and try to understand the sensations. Remember: the legs as a whole should be comfortable. Your fingers should touch the liner and, at the same time, move, but not too much. The heel sits tightly, unable to come off the insole and only has lateral micro-play. The general feeling of a strong handshake - the pressure is evenly distributed over the entire volume of the leg. If necessary, adjust the clips for a more precise fit. Retighten the strap. Give your foot some time to get used to: walk, squat.
After problems in the fit of the leg are identified (strong pressure, pinching), try trying on at least one more model. But do not get carried away with trying on, but it is better to immediately contact a bootfitter specialist to analyze the problem and carry out work on fitting the most optimal boot model.

After the purchase

Ride as much as you can! If the shoes are chosen correctly, then over time they will sit on the leg, and you will no longer feel their weight and pressure. But we must be prepared for the fact that certain shortcomings may appear, which are easily eliminated by a specialist in the service. Watch them: dry, check the condition of the clips, change, if necessary, worn out elements.

When purchasing ski equipment, the most An important and difficult process is the selection of suitable ski boots. This is the first thing you have to put on before getting on your skis.

Rationally selected shoes of this kind Provides secure support for feet and ankles, suitable ski control and enough high level convenience, especially when riding for many hours.

How to choose the right size ski boots?

Before you start choosing ski shoes, it is recommended to correctly determine the size of the foot in centimeters. Many people often prefer to purchase shoes that are a size larger than required. In the situation with ski boots, this does not work.

Shoes of this kind must sit on the foot like roller skates or ordinary skates: reliable and durable. Extra length in this case will do nothing but harm.

Reference! It is believed that shoes bigger size provide less fatigue to the legs. This is a big misconception. When skiing in shoes that are too loose, you will have to exert much more effort.

To independently determine the size of shoes, you must:

put a sheet of paper on the floor;
step on the paper, while relaxing the foot;
without taking your feet off the sheet, mark the heel and the most long finger legs;
measure the distance between them with a ruler;
measure the other leg in the same way.

The largest result will be the size of the foot. Most the exact size that you should be guided by when choosing ski boots is the size in centimeters.

Size chart for men, women and children:

Having determined the length and width of the foot, the specialist will be able to choose the most suitable options., thus significantly reducing the expected search circle. Subsequently, the acceptable width of such shoes determined individually during the fitting process.

If your feet feel a little cramped in the chosen shoes, it's not a big deal. Any shoes sooner or later "knead" under the foot, while becoming more comfortable.

Ski boot stiffness

This indicator is determined by the resistance of the ski boot to bending forward. In most cases, the stiffness of such shoes is indicated directly in its characteristics.

The following factors influence the determination of the optimal level of rigidity:

weight and height of the skier;
riding style;
degree of preparation;
the place chosen for skiing.

Influence of riding style

For each riding style, certain parameters matter. Soft ski models guarantee maximum comfort, and hard ones provide better control over the skis.

For intense riding it is better to choose rigid models equipped with fasteners for fixing the legs in the four most vulnerable points and have sufficient strength.

Freestyle models with a double shock-absorbing sole are suitable for the safe performance of various tricks and jumps. These ski boots are mostly has metal clips, well resistant strong blows and loads.

The influence of weight and height of a skier on the choice of ski boots

The greater the weight of the skier, the higher the stiffness index of shoes of this kind must be.. In the process of fitting, ski boots must bend slightly under the pressure of the person trying them on.

His height matters too.. The higher it is, the more important the optimal stiffness index should be. It should also be taken into account when choosing that the stiffness of shoes in a warm store is felt much lower than in low temperatures.

Important! Ski boots from different manufacturers with the same stiffness index can have significant differences. Effort increases in different ways for everyone, not in a linear fashion.

The level of physical fitness of the skier plays an important role. For beginners, the best indicator would be a stiffness index in the range of 60-80 units.

For intermediate and advanced skiers the best choice would be shoes with a stiffness index of 85-100. Experts in most cases choose an indicator in the range of 110-120, and for athletes, the best option would be a stiffness index of 130-140 units.

The influence of the sport and the place of skiing

Depending on the functional purpose, ski boots, like skis, have certain features:

Sport- the maximum level of rigidity; block having a narrow width; relatively thin inner boot and a more significant forward lean angle;

Freeride- in most cases, a less significant forward slope formed by the shaft; block having a width of medium size; tighter inner boot; the stiffness index does not play a special role in this case;

A park- a small level of rigidity, the presence of shock-absorbing inserts, low weight.

ski boot last

When determining the right block it is necessary to take into account the style of riding and the individual characteristics of the legs skier. In various models, the width of the block (Last) can range from 95 to 104 mm(the distance between the walls of the boot at the widest part of the foot). There is no general standard, as in the case of the rigidity of these shoes.

Conditionally ski boot block can be attributed to one of three groups:

narrow - 95-98 mm;
medium - 100-102 mm;
wide - 102-104 mm.

Important! In some models, the width of the plastic boots may vary (Manufacturer Head Adaptive Fit). This problem is solved by thermoforming the inner boot.

Professional ski boots has a special design:

plastic outer boot: molded or not molded;
power belt as a rule, it is a Velcro strap or a booster with a metal buckle;
inner boot- soft boot that provides comfort to the foot;
outsole - TLT(Dynafit standard for ski touring and ski mountaineering) or WTR (Salomon and Atomic standard for backcountry and groomed trails);
clip- fastener of the outer boot for fixing the leg.

What to look for when buying ski boots?

The main thing in choosing ski boots is size. It depends on two mandatory indicators: foot length and width. The length can be measured at home on your own, and the width is determined directly in the fitting process.

Experienced freeriders and lovers of dynamic karting will certainly appreciate the ability to bend the boot in the metatarsus, which is not inherent in all models.

Walk/skate switch

With this function, you can fix or release the stop, which controls the forward inclination of the cuff of the shoe.

It can be placed both on freeride / backcountry / ski touring shoes, and on comfortable, recreational options.

Warming

The base of the liner, made of foam material, is responsible for maintaining heat in ski boots. The level of heat directly depends on the thickness of the liner.

The area of insulation varies. It can be the entire liner or just the area of the fingers. An additional "plush" layer provides an increased level of warmth and comfort.

If your feet are cold in ski boots, this may be due to the fact that the size of the shoes is not chosen correctly and the shoes are too loose on the feet. Another cause of freezing may be too narrow shoes.. In this case, blood vessels or nerve fibers can be pinched.

The fitting process should not take less than 15-20 minutes. If during this time there is no feeling of tightness in the legs, numbness and burning, this is an excellent model. When choosing unisex ski boots, you need to know that such shoes do not take into account all the features of the structure of the foot, so they are not suitable for everyone.