Fastening type nnn or sns. Ski boots. Types and device. Mounting and how to choose. Ski bindings NNN and SNS: which ones to choose

After buying skis and boots, you should think about fasteners. Skiing is impossible without them. choose responsibly, taking into account all the nuances.

Fasteners are divided according to the features of their structure:

  • automatic;
  • mechanical.

The advantages of automatic models include:

  • fastened with a machine, no need to bend down each row;
  • low price of goods.

There are disadvantages:

  • if pieces of ice or snow get under the shoe bracket, the automation does not work. We have to completely clear all the components of the structure;
  • in case of poor-quality trimming, the fasteners may work for automatic detachment. This leads to disastrous results;
  • at low temperatures, the boots stick to the bindings, as a result of which the automatic detachment does not work. In this case, the boots are removed along with all the equipment, placed in a warm place to thaw.

The advantages of fasteners on the mechanics include:

  • simple and secure fastening;
  • independent detachment is excluded even in adverse situations.

Of the shortcomings, only the high price is noted. But if the priority is quality, reliability, then it is worth paying more.

Selection of ski bindings

Choose ski bindings from well-known and trusted manufacturers. Salomon, Rottefella, Fischer, Rossignol, Atomic are the companies that have become brands due to the quality and reliability of their products. The cost of models, of course, is more, but the result is worth it. High quality materials are used for production. Before sale pass careful testing for quality. Analogues of Russian and Chinese manufacturers are inferior in all these indicators, but their price is much lower.

General information about skis and bindings

Fasteners are divided into three types:

  • front;
  • on the gutter (SNS);
  • on rails (NNN).

The first type refers to obsolete technologies. At present, it has ceased to be in demand even at their low price. The next two are very popular. They differ in the number of strips for fixing fasteners.

Types of ski mounts

Ski bindings are divided into types according to their characteristics. Sports equipment is selected individually. The main species are mountain and.

Ski bindings

Mounting options for mining equipment are divided into two parts: front head, rear heel. Both of them are equipped with a scale. Thanks to them, the process of setting forces is easier to perform.

The bindings have brakes, which are called ski stops. They are designed to brake the skids after they are detached. Most options have a platform equipped with rails. All parts of the bindings move along them, which allows them to be adjusted to fit shoes of any size.

The principle of operation of the front part is to press the toe of the boot to the ski. In case of excessive load, the system automatically works, unfastening the shoes. This reduces the number of injuries. The rear end secures the heel of the shoe and works the same way.

Cross-country ski bindings

For cross-country skiing, these types are used.

For them, there are protrusions on the rails. Mainly used as the front brace is slightly moved to the back. With this option, the skis are easier to manage.

Fasteners on the gutter have multi-colored rubber stops. The color of flexors for ski bindings helps to distinguish the degree of rigidity and choose the option for a particular skiing technique. The meanings of the colors are as follows:

  • white for hard skating;
  • green means the ski bindings are semi-rigid;
  • black for standard style;
  • red very soft riding.

In models of the SNS system, the brace with an elastic band is attached directly to the toe. There is also a sorting by the colors of the rubber stops. They are marked with stiffness, which divides them into:

  • classic type with indicators of 85 and yellow;
  • for skating equipment, red models with a hardness of 115 are suitable;
  • universal types are indicated by the number 95 and have a pink-lilac tint.
Important! Both systems are great for boots of any size. The only exception is children's and junior shoes.

Secrets of selection and settings

The choice of skis is not an easy task. Two factors are taken into account here:

  • physiological characteristics of the user;

The inventory has various indicators, which are selected individually for each owner.

Ski skating technique

Important! Glue containing epoxy resins is undesirable. Their impact is detrimental to the material from which the inventory is made.

Attach the device securely. There should be no system wobble. The screw is tightened tightly, but not pinched. After completing the installation, the inventory is left to dry for 12 hours.

How to choose skis for skating

When choosing inventory for skating based on basic requirements:

  • the length is the user's height plus 10-15 cm;
  • the weight of the skier and the level of skiing technique are taken into account. If the skill is high, then the length is selected 15 cm more than the height. Otherwise, the minimum indicators are selected;
  • a special role is played by the degree of rigidity of the runners. In the case when the weight is more than normal in relation to the height of a person, then the deficiency must be compensated for by increasing the rigidity.

How to choose skis

The choice is made according to the following parameters:

  1. Radius. It is determined by how steep turns are planned on the track. The smaller the radius value, the steeper you can turn around. With a radius of 17 m, the turns will be smooth.
  2. Width. An indicator characterizing the level of permeability. A width of 73-85 mm is suitable for skiing on prepared slopes. In deep snow, runners with a waist width of 90 mm and above work well.
  3. Alpine ski shape. The structure has a waist, toe and heel. The parameter ratio gives different characteristics. The wide toe box in relation to the waist provides a good turn. The narrower the heel, compared to the waist, the better the runners glide along the track.
  4. Rigidity. In alpine skiing, stiffness is not standardized. It can only be identified by touching with my own hands. Focus on the next parameter. For professionals, inventory has great rigidity.

How to choose cross-country skis

The cross-country ski option is chosen in accordance with the goal. When entertaining, it is enough to pay attention to such factors:

  1. Skid geometry. The narrow ones include inventory with a width of 44 to 48 mm, and the wide ones - 48 mm or more. The wider the skis, the more stable they are.
  2. Repulsion methods. Products come with and without notches. In the first case, the skis are always held, but the speed is much less. The lubricated ones have a high speed, but it is necessary to tinker well in the process of lubricating them. You also need to understand correct selection lubricants.
  3. The weight of the inventory is determined by its design. It takes into account the geometry, the structure of the core and the materials from which they are made.
  4. Length adjustment is carried out according to growth. At correct definition 25 cm are added to the height of the skier. The length of the sticks corresponds to the distance from the track to the armpits.

How to choose skis for a child

Depending on his age. For a three-year-old baby, inventory is short and maximum width. When a little skier is just getting on his skis, it's not about speed. At this stage, they teach to keep balance, make turns, master sliding.

Important! For the first skating, equipment is purchased with a width of 8 cm and a maximum length of 40 cm.

In the case when the child is already confidently skiing, they switch to more sports model. It should be a little narrower than 5 cm, and the length is commensurate with growth. It is calculated by the formula: height plus 15 cm. In adolescence, runners are acquired depending on. Significantly affects the choice and skating technique that the child prefers.

Ski bindings NNN and SNS: which ones to choose

There are two types of ski bindings in widespread use: SNS and NNN. Systems require the selection of the type of footwear. Although compatibility is possible in each of the directions. The feature is the presence of guides for fixing the mount.

Cross-country skiing devices come in different types. You can meet, and mechanical. Experienced skiers prefer SNS with a mechanical locking device. For beginners, NNN options with automatic fasteners are suitable. They are a little easier to handle, and they cost less. Plus, they fit any shoe size.

How much do ski boots and bindings cost

The cost of ski bindings depends on their purpose and material. The figure increases significantly when it comes to branded companies. The average price for bindings is 600,800 rubles, and for boots 2,4003,000 rubles. For example, Fischer ski bindings cost 2,197 rubles, including discounts.

Racing standards SNS, NNN, SNS Pilot and NIS - now not only professionals, but also amateurs go to them. Do you personally need them, given your tasks? What are the comparative advantages of SNS, NNN and their modifications SNS Pilot and NIS?

Do you personally need SNS and NNN mounts?

  • Yes, if you improve the style. In this case, you will benefit from good control over the skis and the ability to adjust the stiffness of the connection between the boot and the ski.
  • No, if skiing is not training for you, but a walk, and if you do not go skating. In this case, they have more disadvantages than advantages - durability is less, and boots must be changed before skiing. Choose inexpensive and reliable fasteners Nordic 75.

What is the difference between SNS and NNN?

The mounts of these two standards are similar to each other, like two refrigerators. Consider this a warning: not all stores have competent salespeople, and you may be sold, for example, SNS mounts and boots that are incompatible with each other. You can distinguish them by turning the boot towards you with the sole. The SNS boot has a single wide groove running throughout the sole from toe to heel. NNN has two narrower grooves. The mount itself looks like a plastic strip with a longitudinal ridge and a lock in the front. SNS has one crest, NNN has two.

In terms of technical qualities, both systems are approximately equal here. According to reviews, NNN controls the ski a little better, especially when skating. However, in the SNS standard, in addition to the basic version of SNS Profil, there is a “professional” SNS Pilot, which has not one metal bracket on the boot, but two. She is not inferior to NNN.

NNN has a NIS version. In it, there is a mounting plate on the ski, on which the mount is placed, with the ability to adjust back and forth. Pros: no need to drill the ski when mounting the mount; You can very accurately balance the ski along the length. Now SNS is also sold in versions for the NIS mounting plate.

In terms of reliability, in SNS, the brace on the boot is located closer to the toe and wears out faster if you walk on asphalt in boots, while in NNN, the bindings themselves are more fragile and are prone to bumps and chips.

Choice according to the rule "price-convenience"

In fact, neither SNS nor NNNs have a decisive advantage. Both standards are equally popular among ski stars. It is much more important to choose the right shoes. The second subtlety: depending on the season and the store, the price of SNS and NNN boots and bindings can vary greatly, and it is important to evaluate the price of the set. That's why:

1. Start by determining the price you are willing to pay for the kit. It may be that NNN bindings are cheaper than SNS and you can fit more "advanced" boots for the same price, or vice versa.

2. Try on all boots of both standards that fit into this price. The most comfortable boots will determine your choice of binding system.

Naturally, skis are one of the most important components of a skier's equipment, but not all. You will need bindings and special boots. And their diversity will confuse any beginner in skiing. And in order to decide on the choice of this ski equipment, before going to the store it will be useful to familiarize yourself with what you should pay attention to when buying.

Choice of boots

First of all, you should choose the most comfortable boots for yourself, and then look after the appropriate ski bindings. Therefore, the description will begin with ski boots.

Cross-country ski boots, like skis, are divided into three types according to the intended style of skiing and four according to the target audience.
Depending on the style of cross-country skiing, you will need boots:

  • for skating style you need a high boot with a rigid cuff to fix the leg. The load on the leg with this style is higher, because the presence of a cuff is mandatory - without it, the skier can injure the leg;
  • a low boot with a soft sole goes for a traditional style;
  • is there some more versatile boots, they come with or without a removable hard cuff, with a moderately hard sole.
According to the target audience, ski boots are divided into the following groups:
  • boots for professionals. Such boots are subjected to the greatest load, and therefore, in their production, great attention is paid to reliability and quality. On professional cross-country ski boots, Newest technologies, so you rarely see leather elements in them - there are synthetic materials that are superior to leather in many ways. Boots for professionals are expensive, but they will last quite a long time;
  • boots for sports tourism. These shoes are also subject to serious requirements. They are mainly purchased by tourists with extensive experience, as well as climbers. Sports touring boots make it comfortable for hiking, without skis, if necessary. They are most often made combined, with a replaceable cuff, the material is genuine leather with synthetic inserts. They must be reliable and durable, impact resistant;
  • boots for wellness ski trips. There are no high requirements for such boots, so there are both expensive and cheaper ones: depending on the materials from which the boots are made;
  • boots for children. Children's shoes should be comfortable, durable and warm. In addition, they should be easy to put on and easy to take off.
Cross-country ski boots mostly use laces. If you let go of the laces on the boot so that it can be put on freely, the laces should not fall out through the topmost lacing hole, i.e. be long enough. A properly laced boot, on the one hand, securely fixes the foot, and on the other hand, does not squeeze it. It happens that in the upper part of the boot there is an additional linden - it protects against snow getting into the boot and serves as an additional fixative.
In no case should you buy ski boots without trying them on, and be sure to wear socks when trying them on. It can be either specialized socks for classes skiing, or woolen - not thin, and not thick. The ski boot should never press. On the other hand, it will be difficult to control skis in boots that are too loose.
So, trying on a boot, you need to walk in it, stand up, tear your heel off the floor - inside the boot, the heel should fit snugly against the sole, not come off it. MirSovetov also recommends paying attention to the fact that the fold formed when lifting the heel in the area of ​​​​the instep of the foot should not put pressure on the fingers. If the shoes do not fit these criteria, it means that they do not suit you.
In addition, if skate boots are chosen, the cuff should hold the leg well, but not squeeze or interfere with its movement. In general, as for the stiffness of the boot, it is the largest for the skating style, the smallest for the classics, and the average for the combi.

The structure of ski boots is fundamentally different from the structure of cross-country ski boots. Ski boots consist of two elements - an outer boot and an inner boot.
The outer boot is responsible for the momentum transmitted by the skier during movement - the stiffer the boot, the better the skis obey.
Different companies define the stiffness of ski boots in different ways. Some firms characterize them simply: “soft”, “hard”. Others, namely Nordica and Salomon, have deduced the absolute value of stiffness - a kilogram of force per degree of deflection (meaning forward bending). For beginners, MirSovetov recommends boots with stiffness in the range of 15-60 kgf / deg. For those who have already mastered and have basic skiing skills, this bar rises to 40-80 kgf / deg. Further, when you are already quite confident on skis, you should look at ski boots with a stiffness of 60-90 kgf / deg. And the rigidity of 115 kgf / deg and more is designed for those who go in for skiing professionally, they should not be taken into consideration yet.
In general, the rigidity of the outer boot can be adjusted - but if the skier is on skis for the first time, this, of course, will not help him. The stiffness adjustment is designed for advanced skiers. Depending on the slope or effort applied, it can be slightly changed.
On the front part of the shaft there are metal or plastic fasteners-clips, equipped with length adjustment for a more precise and comfortable fixation of the leg. The number of clips can be from 1 to 4 per boot.
In addition to clips, boots can be equipped with screws designed for different purposes. For example, with a folding back, such a screw is built into a large clip; when it is twisted inside the boot, the tape fixing the leg is tightened.
In ski boots, there may also be a power belt that fixes the cuff (shaft) along its upper part.
The cuff itself can be adjusted in inclination forward and backward, which serves to more accurately fit the boot to the skier's stance. Additionally, ski boots may have another feature called canting. This option allows you to change the angle of the cuff of the boot to the left / right, adjusting it to the structure of the skeleton of the legs of a particular person.
At the back of the boot is an element responsible for improving the transfer of force to the ski.
When walking off slopes, it is convenient to top part the boot was loose. For this, there is a “walking-skating” switch, which just frees the leg enclosed in the boot from shackling.

Another existing difference in ski boots is the principle of entry. In boots with a front entry, the cuff opens at the front, which provides a better fit for the boot. Most often, this principle is used for sports and expert models; in such boots, the cuff does not have a back tilt adjustment. Boots with a central entry are equipped with a partially reclining back boot, making it easier to put on and take off. Finally, rear entry boots, most comfortable for beginners, have a fold-down heel that makes them fairly easy to put on.
The inner boot in ski boots is made of soft materials. It simultaneously removes the need to put on a sock under the boot and serves for a finer fit.
Materials for the inner boot differ in their properties. For models intended for beginners, the boot is made in such a way that it takes the exact shape of the foot within the first minutes. In expert models, this takes time - the liner is made of a tougher, more stubborn material. On the one hand, it provides better contact with the ski (as well as the rigidity of the outer boot), but on the other hand, skiers who do not have the proper level of training will be uncomfortable in such boots. They can be upgraded over time.
Choosing boots for skiing on mountain slopes is more difficult. Regarding the size, there is one elementary rule that should be followed: if the foot is wide, it is better to take half a size more, because when loaded, it will definitely become even wider. For the same reason, it is necessary to try on shoes while standing.
It is necessary to try on a thin elastic sock. It should be perfectly even and smooth, without any folds, and end above the border of the end of the cuff.
You need to understand that it is useless to focus on the manufacturer when choosing - each of them produces shoes with its own characteristics - with a wider or narrower toe or heel, with different rises and so on. The price for a ski boot is also not the most accurate indicator. The most expensive shoes are the expert ones, they will be very difficult for a beginner. It is extremely important to choose comfortable boots - if you try on at least a little pressure, you should not take them - on the slope this discomfort will increase many times over, which can cause a spoiled vacation (at best).
When trying on a boot, you need to fasten all the clips. You should start fastening the boot from the second clip from the toe, the one that tightens the arch of the foot, thereby fixing the heel. After that, you should listen to the sensations - do the fingers rest against the sock, can they be moved a little; the heel should not dangle or come off the insole when tilted. You need to move your foot back and forth, from side to side.
Now you can try to tighten the clips to the maximum. There is a pitfall here: do not forget that the inner boot has not yet crumpled, and then you will need to tighten the clips more strongly. And if, when trying on, they are already tightened as much as possible, then later, when it is really needed, the clips cannot be tightened.
If it seems that the boot is still small, MirSovetov recommends putting half a size larger on the second leg and again listening to the sensations of which leg is more comfortable. When trying on, you need to sit down - if it throws back, then the boot is harsh. It is better to spend 15-20 minutes in boots, stand, walk a little. Having bought boots, you should not put them away before skiing - you can walk in them at home, preparing your feet for the slopes ...
As for the companies that produce ski boots, there are a lot of them. Rossignol, Salomon, Fischer, etc. have proven themselves well.
It is useful to know that, along with typical target groups, manufacturers distinguish ski boots for carving and female models.
There is no need for carving boots for beginners, they are designed for athletes who have long and firmly stood on skis. And the differences between these models are as follows:

  • on the one hand, the increased rigidity of the outer boot in the lateral direction and, conversely, the weakening of the resistance of the cuff in the forward-backward tilt;
  • along with the usual “walking-skating” switch, there is a third one (“soft”, “carve”), which is responsible for the soft resistance of the boot in the fold forward or backward.
  • in this model, a “platform” is almost always used, raising the skier's leg higher above the ski surface.
In women's models, manufacturers take into account the features of the female structure, as well as the center of gravity (therefore, the upper part of the boot is more tilted forward). A higher rise is provided under the arch of the foot, and at the same time, in such a lower heel, the heel is narrower.

Choice of mounts

Cross-country ski bindings come in three types:
  • front (Nordic 75);
  • with a "chute" (SNS system);
  • with "rails" (NNN system).
The front ones are outdated mounts, now little in demand, despite the cheapness. The last two types of fasteners are the most in demand. The difference between the "gutter" and "rails" is that in the first case, the boots have one strip for fastening, and in the second - two.
Let's dwell on each of the mounts in more detail.
Front mounts, Nordic 75. As mentioned above, this type is outdated, and is almost never used.
The NNN system has two mounting protrusions, "rails". This type of binding is preferred by amateurs, because, unlike the SNS, the front bracket of the boot is moved back, which allows better control of the skis.
There are rubber stops at the front of the NNN mounts. By their color, hardness can be easily determined. Determining the stiffness is important in order to understand which bindings are best for you based on your preferred riding style. For skating, more rigidity is required, for classic, respectively, less. The color options for bindings indicating stiffness are as follows: white for the most rigid style, green for softer riding, black for standard rubber bands and red for softer ones. Thus, white and green are suitable for skate style, while black and red are suitable for classic style.
Rottefella specializes in such mounts, and also produces them for other companies. Thus, boots from Alfa, Artex, Alpina, and Rossignol novelties are also suitable for NNN bindings.
The SNS system differs from the above in that the boot bracket is fixed immediately in its toe. As for the color of the rubber stops, they are also different. There are three types of them, but on the "elastic bands" a figure is also squeezed out corresponding to the rigidity. There are yellow (with the number 85) - for the classics, red (115) - for the skate and universal (95) - pink-lilac. It has one protrusion for fastening the "groove".
SNS bindings and boots are manufactured by Salomon. MirSovetov draws your attention to the fact that the new models of SNS mounts and boots differ from the old ones, and therefore, when buying, you should consult about the compatibility of both.
The following boot companies are suitable for SNS bindings: Salomon, old models Rossignol, Adidas, Karhu, Fisher.
SNS and NNN bindings fit all shoe sizes. The exceptions are children's and youth, they produce special fasteners, which are distinguished by a large latch handle and a softer fastening mechanism.
By the way, there are two types of fasteners:
  • automatic;
  • mechanical.
In the first case, as soon as you insert the bracket into the groove, they will snap into place, in the second case, the fasteners are closed manually. Despite the seeming inconvenience of the second type, it is he who is characteristic of professional fasteners, since it is fixed more securely.
As for the installation of fasteners, MirSovetov recommends doing this in a specialized place (in a service or store). The danger is that you can incorrectly determine the center of gravity, accidentally drill through the ski through or make the holes for the fasteners too large.

Skiing
In alpine skiing, the safety of the skier depends largely on the bindings. Everything is done so that when moving, they securely fix the boot, preventing it from moving out, but at the same time, if there is a possibility of a fall or injury, they immediately unfasten it.
Modern bindings for ski boots are made of heavy-duty materials - titanium, steel or high-strength plastic. The main fastening elements are: fastening head, fastening heel, platform and skistop.
Attachment head. This is the front part of the binding, which is responsible for releasing the toe of the boot when the skier falls - sideways and backwards. Its most important characteristic is elasticity. This is the ability of the head to not open up during short impulse impacts, but to return the “left” boot to its original position. Vertical elasticity can be up to 20 mm, lateral - up to 45 mm. In addition, some models have the Twincam system, which allows the boot to move to the side by half the sole. If the displacement continues, the head unfastens, if not, it returns the boot to its place.
Attachment heel. Performs the same functions as the head, only frees the heel of the boot if necessary. It also has an indicator of vertical elasticity (up to 25 mm).
According to the method of fastening, they are divided into:

  • fastened by hand;
  • semi-automatic - they are set manually, and then snap into place when pressed with a foot;
  • automatic - fasteners snap into place when pressed;
When choosing bindings in the store, it would be nice to know the actuation value - the indicator at which the bindings will unfasten. An experienced consultant or instructor will help to cope with this task.
Platform. The part of a ski binding that connects the head and heel. Its main function is to provide better contact between the mount and the ski, to mitigate micro-shocks (for example, on an uneven track) and to dampen vibration. In addition, the higher position of the boot relative to the sliding surface and the edge gives a number of advantages: it allows you not to disturb the flexibility of the ski, contributes to a more convenient distribution of effort expended on movement, etc.
Skistop is a system responsible for braking the ski when it falls. Roughly speaking, rods of metal that drop down the sides of the ski when the boot is released from the binding. Therefore, in order for the skistop to be effective, i.e. was able to slow down the ski when it was unfastened after a fall, MirSovetov advises choosing skistops in such a way that the width is greater than the width of the ski.

It is very important to initially choose the most suitable skis, bindings and boots for them. Because any discomfort when skiing will discourage the desire for further skiing. But at the same time, it is very difficult for the first time not to make a single mistake when choosing. The final understanding of what you really need will only come with time, with experience in riding. Therefore, if possible, before buying your first equipment, try out several different skis, boots, bindings (for example, by renting or borrowing from friends). Then you will be prepared for the purchase not only theoretically.
In the next article, in order to finally prepare you, we will tell you,

The most popular winter sport is cross-country skiing. But in order for classes to fresh air brought only positive emotions, you need to take care of sports equipment. The article will focus on ski bindings. NNN and SNS are the most modern systems fasteners, and the debate about which ones are better has long been going on among professional and amateur athletes.

NNN

The Norwegian company Rottofella has developed a special system for attaching boots to skis - NNN. The originality consists in the presence of two rubber flexors that connect the boot to the binding, and two longitudinal guides that do not allow the boots to move to the sides. The toe of the boot rests against these springy cuffs, and after a push they return the leg to a horizontal position.

The NIS design used in the NNN bindings allows the binding to be mounted on a platform built into the skis. This is very convenient as the binding does not need to be screwed into the ski and can be moved to adjust the position of the boot in relation to the center of gravity. Many skiers use this feature to customize their skis for different snow conditions. This system also allows the athlete to place their binding.

SNS

The French company Salomon introduced its fastening system - SNS. The difference of this design lies in the presence of a central rubber flexor with one against which the boot rests. The special sole of the shoe allows the athlete to control the ski and ride in any style.

The installation of the fastener does not provide for a special platform on skis, like the NNN binding, but original boots are required, suitable only for the SNS design. The usual SNS mount has only one brace in front of the sole of the boot, but there is also a modification of the SNS Pilot, which uses two metal axles that are fixed in two different grooves spaced 2.5 cm apart. This allows you to limit the lift of the foot into the air and thereby increase control over the skis.

System differences

In general, the differences between NNN and SNS mounts are minor and will be invisible to the average hobbyist, but there are nuances that a professional will pay attention to. For example, many people praise the SNS Pilot bindings for the double engagement of the boots on the skis, which improves maneuverability, but at the same time, in not very cold weather, the snow gets packed under the second bracket and is compressed into an ice lump that prevents the boot from being placed on the binding normally. It also happens to unhook the second bracket when pushing. But in cold weather, these mounts work great.

Many pros appreciate the NNN binding because thanks to the platform on the ski and the NIS construction under the binding, the boot rises and the leg becomes longer. This increases the force of the push by lengthening the lever. At the same time, this effect reduces the skier's stability, which is excluded in SNS mounts. What to choose: NNN or SNS binding, it is up to the skier to decide which boots and which bindings are more convenient for him to ride. This is an individual approach, and there is no definite answer.

Mounting installation

After choosing and buying a mount, you need to install it on your skis. You need to do this in the following order:

  1. The center of gravity of the skis is determined. This is done as follows: the ski is placed flat on the edge of the ruler and shifted until it balances, like weights (parallel to the floor). If the mount is heavy, then you need to find the center of gravity by attaching the mount to the skis and shift until the balance line coincides with the fixing groove of the boot.
  2. Hole drilling locations are marked. For this purpose, there are paper templates included with the mount. If there is no template at hand, you can mark with an awl by attaching mounts to the skis, according to the center of gravity.
  3. Holes are drilled to a depth of 10 mm. A drill is pre-selected: for NNN - diameter 3.4 mm; for SNS - 3.6 mm. Drilling is done carefully, slightly pressing on the drill so as not to go through the ski. It is advisable to put a limiter on the drill. Then sawdust is blown out, and the holes are filled with glue for a more secure fixation.
  4. The structure is being assembled. For this, fasteners are applied according to the holes and screwed. After that, it is required to dry the skis for 10 hours before use.

Everything is ready, now you can go for a ride. Apparently, there is nothing difficult in choosing and installing mounts.

There are four main types of ski bindings. Let's see how they differ from each other. At the same time, you will find out which boots are used in each group of bindings.

A light wave beat against the side of our bathyscaphe, everything was ready for diving. We stood on the bridge, illuminated by the sunset, and impatiently peered into the dark waters of the winter ocean - we were waiting for discovery. The command "Dive!"



What are ski bindings for?

Ski bindings perform two main tasks:

  • Transfer efforts to skis to control them;
  • Should be unfastened if there is a risk of injury.

The stiffer the boot is fixed, the more accurate the skiing while skiing. At first glance, the boots are already tightly fastened to the skis, but this is only at first. The boots are in constant motion relative to the bindings. With light shocks, vibration or twisting of the legs, the bindings allow the boots to move from their original position, thereby absorbing loads. The boot then returns to its normal position.

If there is a threat of injury to the legs, for example when falling, the bindings must be unfastened in time. For them to work in right moment, it is necessary to correctly set the DIN force on the front and back of the mounts. The higher the DIN value, the more force is required to release the fasteners.

You can’t set a deliberately low DIN value - the ski can come unfastened at the most inopportune moment, for example, when you write out a beautiful arc in front of a bewitched audience (remember, skiing Is this a sport called "look at me"?). Not only will you hit your face in the snow in public, but you will also get injured. The DIN value must be adjusted. And it’s better to check it with a reliable ski specialist or a ski shop.

An approximate DIN value can be obtained from dincalculator.com.

Speaking of me, I have different DIN values ​​on piste and freeride skis. For the track they are higher.

Now we swim closer to the main types of ski bindings!

Ski Bindings - Classic

There is no such thing as "classic mounts", I came up with this to separate this category. In the West, this species lives under the name Alpine Ski Bindings.

This is the most massive segment of ski bindings, everyone rides in them: athletes, trail lovers, freeriders, park dwellers and many others. To please every group of riders, manufacturers release a huge number of modifications, but this is a topic for a future dive.

Boots in "classic" bindings are clamped tightly and permanently.

All ski boots are suitable for such bindings, except for some niche ones, read about them below.

The price range in the category is colossal, from 2,000 to 30,000+ rubles. - everyone will choose according to his pocket and the level of skiing. Expensive mounts, as a rule, are sports, and cheap ones, of course, are entry-level.

The main disadvantage of conventional ski bindings is that they are unsuitable for skiing, for this they choose bindings for a ski tour.

Ski bindings for ski-tour - frame

They are called framed because the front and rear parts are connected by an element, a frame. Frames can be of various designs - for example, tubes of various shapes in cross section.


These are the Salomon Guardian mounts. How they are arranged and function is described in the video:

In fact, these are “classic” bindings, but with the ability to raise the heel of the boot above the ski. For what? To start moving uphill! Now only the toe of the boot is fixed, as on cross-country skis, and the heel can move in a vertical axis.

Shall we smile? Here's an example of guys trying to crawl up a mountain on regular mounts:

As soon as the slope of the mountain grew a little, the poor fellows began to have very serious problems with walking.

Normal ski boots are still suitable for these bindings, but a ski/walk mode is very welcome. Without it, the point of installing bindings for a ski tour is completely lost.


Each manufacturer has its own walking/skating mechanism, but the shift lever is always located on the back of the boot. After switching, the upper part begins to move relative to the lower one.

Frame mounts are mainly used by freeriders, because they have to go far (outside ski slopes) to leave in search of deep and untouched snow.

Cons of frame mounts for a ski tour:

  • heavier and more expensive than classic ones;
  • the boot is high above the skis, it takes more effort to control.

The issue with weight (but not with the price) is successfully solved by mechanisms of the following category: bindings for ski tours of the TLT system.

Ski bindings for ski-tour - pin


For the first time, such mounts appeared thanks to the Dynafit company, which is why they are also called Dynafit mounts. A few years ago, the patent expired, and their invention began to be used by competitors. Other names: TLT (trademark Dynafit) and tech (tech).

Pin bindings are the next step in the evolution of ski touring equipment, a completely different method of connecting ski and boot. The reasons for the appearance of this variety is the desire to reduce the weight of the bindings and bring the sole of the boot closer to the surface of the ski, without compromising the comfort of walking. And the manufacturers succeeded. Fee for stepping away from the ski mainstream - special, or adapted, ski boots (regular ones do not fit) and high cost.

Boots with bindings are connected by means of four pins (pins) - two in front, two in the back.



Fans of such bindings can no longer be called ordinary skiers. They have been on skis for a long time and, as a rule, are more happy to move up than to go down. Or maybe 50 to 50. I just wanted to say that many do not understand them. They are willing to spend a lot of money to reduce the weight of the ski-binding-boot set, just to get further, higher, faster.

The disadvantages of pin mounts, in addition to the price and special boots, include difficulties during fastening the boots. On the first bindings, it was necessary to combine small holes on the boots and pins with jewelry. Over time, it became easier to get into the mounts - guides appeared. But at the beginning of use, patience and skill will still be required. Especially when riding off-piste, when the operation takes place in deep snow, where there is no hard and flat surface.

The cardinal difference between pin bindings and classic and frame bindings lies in the mechanism for unfastening boots in case of dangerous overloads. For all pins (except Diamir Vipec 12), the heel (back) is activated, and the toe is then passively released. This toe release force is not adjustable, but only has the ability to turn off on the instep (to prevent accidental activation on the instep). Unfortunately, most downhill skiers do not switch to skiing, but ride in the uphill position, i.e. with disabled operation. This is due to the fact that too much effort occurs on the descent leading to operation (TLT was developed even when there were no wide skis).

And after a wild après-ski the day before without calming the nerves and stabilizing movements of 150 grams, getting into the bindings can generally become an impossible mission. You have to ask for help from those around you. So if you decide to buy pin bindings, get ready for a sober life in the mountains.


Ski Bindings for Telemark


Telemark ski bindings are rare, as are telemarkers themselves. At least in our area. In Norway, the birthplace of this style of skiing, there may be more of them.

It happens that weeks pass in the mountains, and they never appear on the horizon. But if you suddenly see a person who moves in some angular way along the slope, know: here he is. This style of squatting is unmistakable!


The video shows how simple the telemark mounts are in design. This is also an advantage - they are incredibly reliable. Such mounts are called 75 mm.

If in ski-touring bindings the heel must be free - in order to move up on skis, then in telemark it is also necessary for descent.

For such fasteners you need special boots. Obvious visual differences from other boots are the "accordion" in the instep area and the long protruding "tongue" of the sole in the toe - the metatarsus (see photo below).



By the way, progress in telemarking also does not stand still - the mounts are being improved. The picture with the boot (where the "accordion" is mentioned) shows a fundamentally new attachment mechanism - without the back. These are NTN mounts - New Telemark Norm, "the new telemark norm".

Compare:


The element highlighted in the picture captures the front of the sole, leaving the heel free. Such bindings require special boots:


Look: the metatarsus is completely different, but the “accordion” is still the same.

You can learn more about this amazing riding style and equipment for it on the telemarker website telemark.ru.


Conclusion

That, perhaps, is all. It was a short but informative trip to one of the corners of the vast ski ocean. The bottom landscape is constantly changing, and we are sure that in 10 years we will not recognize it. And this means that the site will always find a job for our research apparatus - to shed light on the unknown depths of the underwater skiing world.

As always, please supplement the material with comments, because it is your Feedback gives us an idea where to go next time.

Let's float... no, one second...

If you like my dives (have already made more than 70 trips to the depths of the ski ocean), then the quality and fun with which we do it, if you have a desire to say a little thank you, then go to my Powder store and see what kind of design I create for you mountain lovers.

I approach the creation of this clothing as responsibly as I do each dive of the LET IT SNOW submersible.

Now surface, thanks for being with us again! Until the next trip!



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