Rigid freeride skis. How to choose your first off-piste skis. soft vs hard

Freeride skis are suitable for lovers of speed and free riding. With the help of a special design, you can feel like a surfer. To go on a "free float", you should choose a model, taking into account several parameters.

First of all, you should understand what it is - freeride. The word is a transcription of the English word "freeride" and literally translates as "free ride". Freeride does not require specially prepared tracks, it is enough to find a slope with untouched snow. The descent is like snowboarding.

For have the following characteristics:

• increased width;
• wide nose (wider than the waist);
• rocker technology;
• small length.

Rocker - An early rise in the front, back, or front and back, starting from the middle of the ski. Thanks to this technology, "peeped" by water skiers, the rider easily glides and stays on the surface without burrowing into the snow.

Freeride types

Lightweight freeride

Another name is "freeride-light". The easiest and most budget type of freeride. The skier takes the funicular and slides down the slope with loose, unprepared snow.

Backcountry (backcountry)

Requires some physical training: the ascent is carried out on foot on snowshoes or with special equipment for ski touring. After climbing up, the riders roll down the slope.

Heli-skiing and heli-boarding

The riders are taken up by a helicopter and then rolled down. It's over dangerous view freeride, because involves steeper slopes and a long descent through mountainous terrain.

Snowcat skiing

Skiers are lifted up the mountain by special caterpillar all-terrain vehicles with a passenger cabin - snowcats (snowcats). Snow groomers pass through any terrain, so riders can conquer a variety of slopes - forest, hilly, steep.

Freestyle backcountry

A view for extreme skiers who decide to get out of the parks into the natural environment. It involves not only climbing and sliding along unequipped slopes, but also performing various tricks in natural conditions - from rocks, mounds, logs, etc.

Freestyle backcountry skis

Models designed for freestyle are classified as freeride. However, some manufacturers put freestyle skis in a separate category.

Differences between freestyle backcountry skis and classic freeride skis

Compared to freeride classics, backcountry freestyle models have several features:

• the design allows you to roll over in the air;
• fastenings are closer to the toe (for freeriders - closer to the heel);
• increased maneuverability;
• uneven stiffness - soft heel and stiffer toe;
• larger lateral radius;
• full (double) rocker.

What are freestyle backcountry skis for?

Freestyle backcountry is well suited for beginners and experienced riders. They are more maneuverable, lighter, cope better with relief slopes and do not require complex techniques from the skier. You can start learning to slide down the mountain slopes on this model. It is not necessary to use only for tricks, they are suitable for ordinary descents.

Do you need special skis for freeride?

Freeride technique on skiing ah implies maneuverability at high speed, and ordinary thin models will not cope with this task. Therefore, models for mining skiing:

• universal;
• carving (route);
• freeride.

Trails are suitable for descending on well-groomed, equipped slopes. They are stiffer and narrower at the waist. Cross-country skiing is not skied in a straight line, but in arcs. The speed of the rider depends on the radius of the arc, and the radius depends on technical capabilities skier and sidecut. In accordance with the cutout radius, short-, medium- and long-radius cross-country skis are distinguished.

For freeride on alpine skiing, universal and freeride models are suitable.

What are freeride skis?

Specially designed for freeride skis:

• freeride (classic) - with a rocker;
• powder - the widest;
• park&pipe - for performing tricks and jumps;
• skitour - for climbing a mountain.

Park&pipe are designed to perform tricks in ski parks with springboards, railings, etc. The ski touring is specially designed for the backcountry. The model is lightweight and allows you to climb uphill, tearing off the heel. When descending, it is fixed with a mount. Skis are inconvenient for extreme descent.

Powder (powder)

Designed for driving in deep (from 20 cm), soft, hard snow. A good pair for overcoming hillocks and uneven slopes. They feel great in wooded and ravine areas with a meter deep snow. Main characteristics:

• width - up to 150 mm at the toe and up to 140 mm at the waist;
• turning radius - 24-35 m;
• front rocker.

Powders are not suitable for packed slopes.

Station wagons (all-mountain)

Suitable for various terrain with soft, sticky, deep (from 30 cm) snow. On station wagons, you can overcome soft bumps. However, on rolled slopes, they are significantly inferior to track models in terms of speed and maneuverability.

Characteristics:

• width - 140 mm at the toe and 100-105 mm at the waist;
• turn - 16-24 m;
• low front rocker.

Station wagons are suitable for learning to freeride.

Big mountain freeride (freeride skis for big mountains)

An improved version of the wagons. Freeride skis on high slopes can go literally anywhere. Well overcome extremely hard slopes, deep, melted snow. Often reinforced with carbon fiber in one sheet.

Main characteristics:

• width - 108-120 mm;
• low front, rear, rarely full rocker;
• turning radius - 21-35 m.

The pair is difficult to manage and will suit only experienced skiers.

How to buy freeride skis

Pick up best skis for freeriding is quite difficult. You should take into account several parameters and understand why skis are needed - driving on rolled slopes or overcoming natural obstacles.

Notch Radius

This parameter shows what the turning radius will be. Skis with a small indicator are able to turn around quickly and often. Large radius (from 17 m) helps to turn smoothly. It is important for a beginner rider to pay attention to this in order to greatly facilitate maneuverability.

To cross the forest, it is better to choose a pair with a radius of up to 15 m. For a free descent, 20 m is enough.

Rigidity and weight deflection

Hardness is not measured by quantity, and it can only be checked with your own hands. Soft skis are easier to control. They are suitable for deep soft snow. For descent on a dense, melted surface, it is better to purchase a hard pair.

Weight deflection distributes the pressure of the ski on the slope and depends on the stiffness. In freeride models, the weight deflection is combined with a rocker. The longer it is, the higher the maneuverability. The short rocker helps with sharp turns and riding in hard snow.

How more weight rider and the shorter the ski, the more rigidity should be.

Lenght and width

Long skis are less maneuverable than short ones. Therefore, beginner skiers are advised to choose models exactly according to their height. This will make it much easier to manage.

The size indicated on the skis is an average parameter and may not correspond to reality. Usually a vertically set ski is 5-10 cm higher or lower than the skier.

Wide models easily overcome deep soft snow and are suitable for unprepared slopes. Narrow skis maneuver better on hard surfaces and are able to change direction faster. Generalists with a waist of 100 mm have average indicators.

Usually the specified width corresponds to the waist. Socks wider than the waist by 2-5 cm.

Ski categories

• by experience - for beginners, amateurs, professionals;
• by gender - male, female;
• by age - children, teenagers, adults.

Each category differs in size, weight, fastening, maneuverability. Beginners are advised to buy universal models with a double rocker. They can ride on slopes with different snow density and make quick turns.

Important! A child can acquire driving skills from the age of 5. Foreign schools accept babies aged 2-3 years. However, it is better to master freeride from 8-10 years old.

Manufacturers and prices

Top 10 manufacturers of alpine skis.

In the course of our freeride school, we constantly receive questions from the participants. Often questions arise in the process of riding, when there is no time to think about them. Therefore, it was decided to write answers to the most frequent and characteristic of them at the end of the school, when the questions had accumulated and there was time for a thoughtful answer. Alex will take the rap for the snowboard part, and I for the ski part. For the convenience of presenting information, I grouped them into blocks.
Important: Unfortunately, I do not have magic pills. But I will try to answer all questions honestly. I am sure that asking the right questions is an art, because the right question contains half the answer. Therefore, both the question and the answer require time and attention.

1. Peculiarities in the equipment and equipment of a skier when skiing off-piste?

What skis to take for freeride? (width min/max, size (compared to the height of the rider) min/max, stiffness)
The stiffness of skis for freeride, what depends on it, how to choose the one that is optimal for your style, level, skiing terrain?
Which skis are best for beginners (no experience) freeriders?

Choosing the best ski for freeride is a deeply personal, almost intimate thing)) Optimality depends on physical data - height, weight, strength and endurance. It also depends on the terrain on which you have to ride, the speed and manner of riding. And the main criterion for understanding this is personal experience.
Therefore, we can recommend starting with models of moderate geometry. Size 5-10 cm above your height and about 100-110 mm waist.
In general, we can say that long and hard skis hold a given trajectory more stable. Short ones are more agile. The softer the ski, the less effort (and speed) is needed to turn on it. At the same time, it makes no sense to bend them in the store, the only true criterion is their work on the slope.

Do I need to buy special skis for freeride, or can I start on my usual, for "piste"?

You can, at least that's how I started)) In addition, sometimes you can test the top freeride models with us. We tested MOMENT models and also had the opportunity to try BlackDiamond. I hope that the theme of testing wide skis in our school will continue next season.

Which skis are definitely not to be taken to Kirovsk / for freeride?

Running and sports workshop))

What rocker is better to take skis with?

Don't sweat it, honestly.

Installation of fasteners: according to what marks? should i change the mounts?

I put fasteners according to the manufacturer’s marks and don’t worry about “plus or minus 5 mm”. I think the design engineers know their stuff, at least on the skis I choose. An irresistible and justified desire to move the mount from the center marks can only arise in the process of practical testing, and not in an Internet discussion.

Is the setup of the freeride bindings different? Do I need to loosen or tighten the heel / toe “shooting off”? Is it always necessary to adjust the actuation force of the heel and the head of the bindings to the same value, or are there peculiarities of the snow cover when it is necessary, for example, to increase the force on the heel or on the head of the crepe?

The setting of the bindings depends on the weight of the skier and the style of skiing. There is no special setting for freeride crepe. It makes no sense to loosen the crepes compared to regular skiing - the terrain off the slopes is usually more difficult, which means more chances to lose the ski. It is also not worth over tightening. Still, the operation of the mounts protects you from injury, it makes no sense to voluntarily give up this protection. We will not take you to slopes where an unfastened ski will inevitably lead to injury. Not necessarily the head and back of the bindings will be adjusted the same. It depends on the type of riding. For example, the heel can be tightened up for high jumps. But all the same, these values ​​are somewhere nearby. It is also worth checking the correct fit of the crepe to the size of the boot to get the preload when clipping.

Which boots are suitable for freeride and which are not (rigidity, something else?)

The most important thing is that the boot should be comfortable, like any other footwear. Rigidity has no fundamental difference from boots for skiing along the lift.

Ski touring bindings: does it make sense to put on for a trip to Kirovsk? / in general for freeride? Are there ski touring adapters?

You don't need to set up ski-tour bindings to participate in our programs. They add weight (I mean serious crepes that allow both walking and full-fledged skiing), and the share of ski touring in the school is small. Another thing is if you plan to walk around the Khibiny. I use ski touring adapters. I don't always take them, as needed. With a ski tour, the next question will inevitably arise - about skins. This is a question I need to look into more thoroughly.

How to choose sticks for yourself? How to install correct length sticks?

You should like sticks) Their choice is no different from the choice of sticks for piste skiing. If you have a question about this, it means it’s too early for freeride))) telescopic poles. And choose them with a margin of length. Putting them compactly on a backpack is not as important as heretic snowboarders. But the extra centimeters will be very useful when pushing out on a gentle slope after the descent.

Is it necessary to take a backpack to which skis are attached? Which mount is best?

Yes, definitely. Moreover, the functionality of the backpack should be checked before the trip. The mounting system is not fundamental, here as you like. It is more convenient for me when the skis are attached diagonally.

What protection exactly does a skier need? Which is desirable?

Definitely need a helmet. Everything else is individual. A properly packed backpack protects your back. I often ride without protection, but this is not a role model, honestly. It's just a bad habit. For serious descents and competitions, I always wear a helmet

Is the preparation of skis for off-piste different from the usual service? Do I need to do ski service before the trip?

I don’t see any special differences in the preparation of skis for lovers of piste or off-piste skiing. Athletes fight for hundredths of a second, but this is not relevant for us, so a simple ski service - filling holes in the base and sharpening the edges is quite sufficient. Someone will probably start to balk at the sharpening angles, but this is not for me. If you ride a lot off-piste, then the maximum task is to bring out a smooth and sharp edge of the edge, straighten the notches from the stones ... And 89 or 90 degrees is relevant for athletes and Internet ride professionals))

2. Features in the technique of skiing off-piste.

What are the differences in off-piste technique compared to piste? If there are differences in skiing on-piste and off-piste, what should you pay attention to when preparing for a trip to a freeride school? What is worth pulling up in riding technique in order to feel confident in a freeride school from the first or second day? What muscles are most involved in off-piste skiers? Is it possible to "tighten" these muscle groups in 1-2 months? How to do it, how to train? How important is the knowledge of jumping technique in off-piste skiing? How can you master the technique of drops / tricks? How safe is it? Is it possible to train not in big mountains? How to brake so that on a freeride when edging you do not bury your nose in the snow (there is no such problem on the track)? In deep snow, how to turn correctly so as not to bury yourself? What is the technique of skating on the sidelines? How to achieve mastery in skiing? How to improve your skills and abilities?

For a long time I was soaring over this section, all summer)) And I decided to write honestly. Subjective and maybe not always pleasant, but useful))

Most often, freeriders lack riding skills. The one they teach in sports school. Or in instructor-led courses. A person who skis confidently does not have much difficulty skiing off-piste. Tested with practical examples. A discharger or CCM in alpine skiing on the very first day will ski steeper off-piste than an LVC who has completed some kind of backcountry program with avalanche courses. Therefore, the first advice is to learn to ride. Really learn to really ride))

Next, I believe that freeriding should be adequate. Adequate skier ability, terrain and snow conditions. For some reason, it is widely believed that in freeride the main thing is to “wet and straighten”. But in narrow corridors, with poor visibility or difficult terrain, it is convenient to descend in short turns while controlling speed and maintaining traction. And along the broken spring mounds in the mogul technique. Another thing is that half of the “freeriders” and half of the slope will not pass with such “sneeze-puffs” that children drive in a sports school in training. And sometimes you need to be able to just "wet" - confidently drive directly part of the slope. Accordingly, “to be able to ride” for a freerider means to ride in a variety of ways. The more skiers in the technical arsenal, the more adequate, with more safety and pleasure you can ski.

Next, everyone should mind their own business. Everything is possible with due desire) I want to train in the off-season - commendable and reasonable! Do a search on the Internet, there is a lot of information now. Or go skiing, chat with a coach, go to a workout in the offseason. For jumps and tricks - the same principle. There is information, video tutorials, there are opportunities to train on a trampoline and on a slide under the guidance of instructors, use these opportunities. And I perceive an attempt to treat chakras and pukras on the Internet as a waste of time, excuse me, this is a practical part.

I recommend watching a film with Kirill Anisimov, available online.
For my part, receiving regular offers to ride together and work on technique, this season I propose practical lessons -

When dropping on terrain, does the length of the heel of the ski matter? Is it easier to drop with a long heel than with a short one? It's about landing directly, not in the switch.

It's easier for me, yes.

Rocker skis are harder to control on tinny and inflated slopes. In the absence of a second more versatile pair of skis, how to stabilize the behavior of skis with a rocker on such slopes, due to what technique can the stance change?

These difficulties are associated with the insufficient length of the edge that holds the ski on a hard slope. Well, with insufficient stiffness of the ski, after all, rocker skis are not made for such snow. So, to control in such conditions, you need to make more efforts. There are two exits:
1. Use skis for their intended purpose.
2. Rock your legs.
In fact, this is like an answer to the problem “I am sawing firewood with a needle file, since there is no saw, what should I do?”)))

3. General questions:

What rules must be observed when riding in a new, unfamiliar place? Can I ride in unfamiliar places without guides if the prices for their services are high for me?

You can ride as you like, as long as you don't disturb others, that's what freeriding is for)) As in the rest of life, you have the right to make your own choice, and you have to be responsible for it.
Sometimes there really is no money for guides. I will not breed demagoguery about the fact that life is more expensive. A few universal recommendations that I myself try to adhere to.

1. Try to get information directly, without intermediaries and a broken phone. Be interested in the degree of avalanche danger from avalanches, rescuers, guides. It’s not worth relying on the information of a neighbor in turn, even if he has a whole backpack in stripes. It is worth accepting his opinion only if it is reliable information, for example, if he saw traces of avalanches on the slope. Information in the spirit of “rolling, everything is fine” or “I think ...” does not say anything. Do not trust other people's footprints.

2. Try to collect as much information about the slope as possible. Some slopes end in places from which it is very difficult to get out. And we are talking not only about rocky faults, but also about a river blocking the path to the highway, a gentle and extended slope, littered with snow, etc.

3. Avalanches are not the only and not the most frequent danger in the mountains. Think about what you will do if one of the group members loses a ski or gets injured. You need to have a clear idea of ​​where the slope goes, about the possibilities of operational communication with the rest of the world.

4. Try to honestly evaluate your strengths and the strengths of the participants. Taking an inexperienced friend on a risky adventure just because you and him have been sitting on neighboring pots since kindergarten is not the best motive. Learn to say no, sometimes that's the best way out. Thinking soberly in a beautiful place in good company can be difficult, but there is no other way to live happily ever after.) The farther the place of your adventure is from “civilization”, the more time and other resources are needed.

What are the basic laws of off-piste skiing? Is there some unwritten code of rules that must be followed?

I don't know about these on a global scale. There are some attitudes that have arisen in companies, on a slope ... For example, it is not customary to get into a group without permission. When the group descends, observing the order, it is better to wait or choose another trajectory for the descent. Or, for example, on the 25th we can introduce a voluntary moratorium on some places for skiing. In order not to set a bad example) But in general - it's all very subjective. And there are no freeride points that could be read at the stand ski resort. I think that you just need to be guided by the principle - do not complicate life and do not spoil the mood of others - freeriders, athletes, tourists, rope walkers, etc.

Where and how can I learn more about freeriding? What films convey the meaning and atmosphere of freeriding well? What books, articles, magazines help to learn more about freeriding and form my own point of view on the philosophy of freeriding?

It's funny) There are many films, resources dedicated to freeride. Some things I like, some things I don't agree with. But that's not the point. Freeride for me personally is an opportunity for learning and expression. Yourself and those around you. What is the point of shaping your attitude towards this on the basis of dogma and fashion? This is an opportunity to learn, to work on yourself, to know. And each of us has our own path, even if the paths start on the same peaks. Try, learn for yourself, without intermediaries, this is the experience of feeling. To one day understand exactly why. I can't date the answer to this question, any answer will lose its meaning in this case. Freeride is an opportunity to feel life here and now. The ability to pause the flow of questions and feel the main answers to them.

uff, I got over it, Alex, now it's your turn))

Before looking at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose skiing for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

Dynastar carving skis. evo.com

These skis are designed for ready-made skiing. ski slopes, allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

racing skis Salomon. evo.com

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). Models are very different in geometry and features, designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

Universal skis Armada. evo.com

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin lands, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

Skis for freeride Salomon. evo.com

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin ground, and also allows you to jump from rocks without harm to health.

What to buy

Skis park, for freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

Moment park skis. evo.com

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are twin-tip models with the same curved toe and heel. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a ski jump with both his back and his face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: the length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, as they are selected according to a specific sports discipline and the pros don't need advice. Better focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced.

Alpine skiing options

Length

The length of skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To choose the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be -5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, hard skiing requires good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional stiffness than universal skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break into side slip.

The more weight, the more rigid skis are needed to hold it.

It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride on soft skis, for example, universal ones. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the stiffer the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut radius depends on ski geometry. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will pass.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the style of skiing. Slalom has a short radius - 9-12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-range skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis listen better on turns and, unlike long-radius ones, allow you to ride on rather tight, crowded slopes.

The radius of universal skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis is usually made up of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.

From the sides, the core is closed with plastic walls, on top - with a decorative strip, and from below - with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and depreciation increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side and decorative trims, and the core is closed with one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.

Cap provides less weight and more torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. Inside the case there is a core made of wood or light synthetic materials.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures cornering stability and less sensitivity to track irregularities.

In addition to these three structures, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends - according to another.

Alpine skiing materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with light synthetic foam. Foam does not provide such stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

Foam core. backcountry.com

The next layer is the core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

In the production of a sliding surface, combined materials are also used. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Mounting standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Suitable for ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail skating boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example climbing a mountain. Most of these bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 (Touring) soles.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Development Salomon. Boot bindings with a higher WTR sole with tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elastic fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not unfasten, but will return the boot to its place.

Bindings for carving skis have a little elasticity. It is enough to shift the boot by 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible, as they are under more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To release the freeride binding, the boot must move to the side by 2.5-3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop (ski-stop) is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. Looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.

The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mount on the ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, choose a ski mount only after you choose the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening on a ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most secure installation method. Cons: You can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws break the structure of the skis a little, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a binding platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the platform holes will match the mounts and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If the ski has a platform without holes, any bindings will work, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings are easily changed to the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same ski.

How to choose sticks

1. Material. Sticks can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of an alloy. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with a sharp edge of a ski, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Sticks for normal skiing are straight. For downhill, such as giant slalom, are curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the rings of sticks behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.

the-raceplace.com

3. The size and shape of the rings. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed so that the stick does not go deep into the snow. Freeride models have big rings so that the stick holds well on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots while skiing.

Some manufacturers make sticks with interchangeable rings for different conditions skating.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is right for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.

Before choosing sticks, put on ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick on the arm), it is not advised to wear it. During a fall, ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boots parameters

First, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will analyze how to choose boots depending on your style of skiing.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort you need to make to change the angle of the boot top. The stiffer the boot, the better your muscle forces are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots dampen efforts due to the bending of the bootleg. As a result, ski control is reduced.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to manage your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too hard boots.

sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel up and down. These boots have a higher rubber sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable pads that allow them to be used with regular bindings.

Touring outsole. gearinstitute.com

WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

WTR outsole. lugaresdenieve.com

Shoe width

Shoe width - the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable shoe widths. They indicate the range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: in too wide boots you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy too spacious shoes.

thermoforming

This is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

Inner boot in thermoformable material. backcountry.com

Some boots can only be molded problem areas, in others the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are labeled Auto Fit, they are thermoformed while you wear them, from the warmth of your foot. A few days of riding is enough for the self-molded boots to adapt to your features.

Walk around the store for 10 minutes before buying shoes. So you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed for hot forming with a special dryer. Hot forming is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits in size, but it presses a little in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hair dryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Warming

Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweaty socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and wool for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

evo.com

These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and just for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, put personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not chase softness and convenience: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to conveniently climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.

Freeride (from the English freeride - “free riding, riding”) is one of the styles of the most magnificent winter hobby, namely. It is believed that it is skiing in the style of "freeride" on off-piste mountainous terrain and untouched snow that reveals the fullness of the possibilities of skiing. Of course, freeride is not a place for skiing beginners, as it is often accompanied by various dangers (from avalanches to an elementary loss of the route in space). When preparing to master the freeriding style of riding, it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of terrain, route planning, climate reconnaissance and weather conditions. The only thing left is to choose the right skis for freeride.

Before skiing, it is necessary not only to plan the route, but also to choose the right skis

In this article, you will learn what criteria should be used to choose freeride skis among a rich modern assortment.

Freeride types

Before you start, you need to figure out what exactly you have to deal with, or rather, what kind of freeride you are going to do.

• Freeride light, or lightweight - a type of skiing on loose snow (powder), outside the ready ski slopes. People are taken to the top of the mountain with the help of lifts, then there is a free exit from the mountain along the selected untouched terrain. It is worth noting that this view is a relatively budget entertainment.
• Cat skiing - is that skiers are thrown onto snowy mountain peaks with the help of special transport, famous for its absolute cross-country ability, called "snowcat" (which immediately affects the cost of this type of skiing). After that, freeriders carry out off-piste free descent from the mountain.
• Backcountry, or skitour, is another form of freeride available on your budget. In this case, the ascent to the top of the mountain is carried out by a comfortable ascent by freeriders on skis to the chosen end point of the route. This is followed by free descent.
• Snowmotoboarding is perhaps one of the most fun types of freeride. Here skiing becomes only an auxiliary element of skiing. The main part of the process is taken over by a mountain bike, an ATV or a snowmobile, to which they hook it with the help of special freerider equipment. This is how snow skiing is carried out, reminiscent of water skiing.

The above types of freeride skiing are just the main and most common variations of skiing, which even a beginner or amateur can initially get acquainted with, having decided to master this style.

The choice of ski equipment

So, if you have already decided on the route and type of freeride, then it's time to choose skis for freeride. It should be noted that your level of training and skiing skills are important here.

Alpine skiing is divided among themselves into several categories and types according to different criteria.

Ski categories

First of all, the selection of a category depends on the professionalism and personal physical data of the skier.

Here we can distinguish the following categories of skis:

• for beginners;
• for advanced amateur skiers;
• for professional sports skiing.

Without a doubt, this primary choice will help you make a consultant of any sports shop. Next, you should take into account the age and constitution of the skier. The gender of the athlete is also important.

Age and gender difference in alpine skiing

There is an age limit for ski equipment. Based on this, shells are divided into the following types:

• adults;
• junior (teenage);
• children's.

In turn, adult and children's shells from the category for beginners can also be divided by gender:

• men's;
• female.

All of them differ in softness or rigidity, sensitivity to the surface of the snow cover and the geometry of the ski structure, which will be able to ensure the safety of the descent in difficult conditions (ice cover, avalanche). We will talk about this in more detail later.

Skiing for freeride style

The main feature of freeride devices lies in their design: they have a fairly wide middle part of the shells (up to 11 cm) and a short length relative to their owner.

Professional riders are advised to focus on their height: vertical ski boards should be slightly (2–3 cm) higher than a person.

Freeride skis must be, of course, comfortable for any maneuvering, taking into account the possibility of skiing both on loose snow (powder) and on hard ice surfaces.

It should be understood that professional sports ski equipment is distinguished by the rigidity of the board when pressed, which means that only a person from a certain weight category can own such skis. An athlete will undoubtedly select this category of equipment based on the recommendations of his coach and the type of descent (ski-cross, slalom, freestyle, etc.).

But there is also a universal product.

Universal mountain equipment is more malleable in mastering by both amateur skiers and beginners. They will allow you to ride both on a prepared track and on a steep, unbroken mountain slope.

The size and length of skis for amateur freeride

Usually the equipment for any freeride descent is distinguished by its length and width, which consists of different parameters of the front, middle and rear parts projectile. Also, when choosing ski equipment, the radius of the side cutout of the projectile is taken into account. For example, wide alpine skis are suitable for a soft powder slope. For hard mountain slopes, you should choose narrower devices (with an average width of the "waist"), which will allow the skier to easily ride even on a bumpy track.

The usual average width of universal alpine skis for amateur riders varies from 6 cm to 8 cm. Such shells should not be long. Often they are shorter than their owner by 5-10 cm. This length provides a safe descent for beginners, as it is relatively easy to control and maneuver.

Alpine ski design

According to their design, ski equipment is divided into three main categories:

• sandwich;
• box

Sandwich - ski design, which consists in the multi-layer filling of the device with various materials. Each layer of such filling is responsible for its function. As a rule, the upper and lower layers are responsible for ensuring the rigidity of the projectile.

Cap - a design option, which also represents the presence of several layers of different composition, but, unlike the first option, the "foundation" of the cap is the upper rigid layer, to which all subsequent forming layers of the ski equipment are attached.

The box is a structure with a "core", which is wrapped with the necessary material over its entire surface, which, in turn, provides the torsion stiffness of the ski board for good grip on any track and smooth control.

To complete the picture, it would be useful to listen to freeride style professionals. Most often these are guides and rescuers who are trained and have the most sophisticated and dexterous professional skiing skills.

• The 10cm freeride ski width is more than enough for any skiing level. Suitable for skiing on both hard surfaces and soft loose snow.
• You should always keep up with the times and listen to new sports trends. In this case, we are talking about the acquisition of ski equipment with Rocker technology. These skis are much faster and lighter at lower speeds, allowing you to master powder skiing without compromising hard-surface skiing. Thus, when skiing with a rocker, you can safely alternate the terrain for skiing, which is perfect for both beginners and more advanced freeride lovers. For daily free skiing, skis with a double-sided rocker are suitable.
• It is worth noting that hard skis with a straight tail are suitable for ski touring. Ski touring fasteners often make the skis heavier and reduce the sensitivity of their control, this should be remembered by skiers with low weight class, and must also be considered when choosing equipment for women and children.
• When riding on powder, it is advisable to purchase shells with a reverse deflection. This will create the feeling of flying and "snow surfing". Skis with such a deflection do not sink in the snow and are easily controlled.
• Spring skiing will provide you with light modeling skis with pronounced carving like a twin-tip. Such skis will not get stuck in dense wet snow and will provide good cross-country ability, taking into account spring weather conditions.

That's all the initial knowledge about the features of freeride skis, which should be considered when buying ski equipment. It remains only to choose the design and color scheme of your equipment, and forward to mastering the freeride style.

I think everyone has long and well remembered that the only reliable way to choose the right alpine skis is to take them for a ride, most often this is real in the tests. Unfortunately, this opportunity is not always available and not for everyone, so we often have to rely on someone else's opinion. Fortunately, there are still quite objective parameters that we can calculate and use them as a guideline when choosing skis.

And here is one such objective parameter that concerns specifically universal and freeride skis - this is the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ski, which accounts for a unit of our weight. With him, everything is quite obvious - the more surface area your weight holds, the less the skis fall into the snow, the better they ride in this snow. As already, again, it was said, skis with specific properties are designed to minimize the amount of effort of the skier in certain conditions. And any model is a compromise to minimize energy consumption for different riding conditions.

When I first wrote this article, I did not know that similar numbers indicate in technical specifications for cars - snowmobiles, snowcats, swamps, all-terrain vehicles. In addition, I calculated the recommended values ​​in terms of square centimeters cm 2 per kilogram of weight, that is, the reciprocal of the accepted ones. Now everything is corrected for the usual g / cm 2, grams per square centimeter - that is, the specific pressure on the snow. At the same time, the idea itself, which was obvious to me, found a clear scientific and technical confirmation.

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How do we calculate the area of ​​the ski? The shape of the edge is quite complex. But for simplicity, the edge on the side of the ski can be considered a straight line from the waist to the toe / heel, since this will introduce a smaller error into the calculation than the following factors. In this case, we simply calculate the arithmetic average of the width of the toe, waist and heel - add them up and divide by three. Next, multiply the resulting number by the length of the ski. The length of the ski is measured by the base, so strongly bent toes and heels will introduce an even greater error. In addition, the toes, and often the heels, are rounded. All these inaccuracies affect the result we need, but not much. Do not forget about the dimension - the length of the ski is in centimeters, and the width is in millimeters, so they should be divided by 10. We got the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone ski. There are two skis, so let's multiply the number by two. And divide your weight in grams by this area. For example, the author's favorite skis for trips to big mountains

73 kg x 1000 / [ 184 (size, cm) x (136 + 99 + 120) / 10/3 (arithmetic mean of width, cm) x 2] =

16.8 g/cm2

And now let's compare the resulting number with the following scale, compiled by the author, g / cm 2:

26-31 - an indicator for narrow long skis of classic “straight” geometry (in fact, they were not so often really straight, experiments with the shape were always going on); To get an idea of ​​how much effort it takes to ski these powders, watch the video. For skiing, you have to use the godil technique, make frequent turns with the creation of a compacted area of ​​​​snow in the final phase of the turn, from which the skier pushes off into a new turn.

Wide and/or long?

The large waist width of the skis (more than 100 mm) bears the cost of completely depriving them of their versatility. Such skis are good at minimizing efforts in the snow, but! - as soon as it becomes necessary to ride on a solid support, placing them on the edge is associated with significant efforts in the ankle area. If you come to ski with wide skis to a resort where, alas, there has been no snowfall for a week, and not only the tracks, but also all the surrounding fields, bushes and copses are rolled into concrete, after a day or two of skiing on these skis, your legs will start to fall off. The author of this had the pleasure of skiing for several days in such conditions before the start of snowfall in Whistler on rented skis with a waist of 125 mm and retained vivid impressions from this skiing.

For this reason, the author often sacrifices width in favor of versatility and, in the absence of a specific forecast for a trip under the snow, takes skis with a waist of 99 mm (16.8 g / cm 2) with him. He also considers the optimal length for his weight, which fluctuates around 73 kg (and the technical level), the length of such skis in the region of 185-190 cm (these are perhaps a little short).

In general, those whose waist is in the range from 75 to 90 mm can be considered universal skis. The larger the waist, the more off-piste properties the ski has. Today, with some stretch, a waist within 100 mm is already referred to as universals. But, of course, only with a stretch - on a hard slope, such skis require effort.

It should be noted here that the called waist width ranges depend on the dimensions of the skier. Namely, they are proportional to the size lower extremities. Relatively speaking, for a person with a foot of 29 cm, a waist width of 93 mm is equivalent to a waist of 80 mm for a person with a foot of 25 cm (simple proportion 29/25 = 93/80). The correctness of the statement is relative, since the proportions are reduced not only to the length of the foot.

In addition to increasing the area, there is another reason for the need for a large length. To exaggerate somewhat, this is the explanation for the design of longer, more off-piste alpine skis: Imagine your short, hard alpine skis for piste. In addition to the fact that their small area will contribute to falling into the snow, their hard socks will burrow into it. Let's imagine that we lengthened their noses with a softer core, which does not give good support on a hard slope, but bends upwards with resistance in deep snow, resulting in skis floating in the snow - they no longer burrow. The effective area of ​​support on which the weight is distributed on the hard one remains the same - the soft part of the ski almost does not hold weight until the skis sink into the snow and bend. But the plus is good shock-absorbing properties when driving in broken snow, and this reduces the stiffness of blows to the legs.

So the length of freeride skis is not only due to the need to have a large ski area. For any of your hesitations in choosing the length of skis (), according to the author, longer ones should be preferred. Perhaps, at first, an unusually large length will cause difficulties in management, but you will adapt to it. But you will always tumble in the snow on short skis.

And in defense of greater length - skis immersed in snow do not behave quite the same as those placed on a hard slope. Already on a slightly broken slope, the skis begin to yaw and demand control. And in the snow, stability in the direction of travel becomes much more relevant. Especially at speeds. And long skis retain this stability better.

A bit of choice practice

For example, let's consider the stock skis of a high-quality Swiss manufacturer Movement - Evolution, from the line, from which the author still cannot get rid of consultations on choosing from: o) On the indicated site they can be purchased for 160 €, which is extremely inexpensive for high-quality, not even Swiss skis with a wooden core (why the wooden core is so important - see this article). The geometry of these skis is 116-80-104, and the radius of 20m is quite such a typical station wagon. In addition, this model has very soft socks that do not allow them to burrow, and the stiffness has a so-called "progressive distribution" - it increases disproportionately as you move towards the center of the ski, which ensures an increase in ski recoil with increasing load.

It is known, however, that a skier weighing over 80 kg, who once rashly acquired this model, was dissatisfied with it. According to the scale above, skis will be of "universal interest" if the pressure on the snow does not exceed 20 g/cm2. We believe:

184 x (116+80+104)/3/10 x 2 x 20 = 73.6 kg

That is, these skis in their long size 184 will provide the minimum universal properties for a person weighing within 73 kg. They can be considered as relatively freeride (our coefficient is up to 17 g / cm 2) only with a weight of 61 kg. In the opinion of the author, size 184 is too big for this weight, so the long size of this model cannot claim the role of freeride, and not universal skis. Moreover, under no circumstances can these skis be of interest to a guy weighing over 80 kg - with such an area for his weight, these skis can certainly not be with soft noses. Enriched with the above information, he would have understood that the Evolution in size 184 is an all-rounder for a skier / skier weighing 65-73 kg. The proof is, in particular, the cited review of a girl weighing 64 kg, skating for the first season and satisfied with a slightly smaller size - 177.

But in size 170, the same calculations give a weight of 57 - 68 kg. A relatively aggressive skier around 60 kg will be satisfied with these 170 skis as off-piste. And the logic here is simple - the width of the skis remains the same in a smaller size, and for a person of small dimensions, the proportions of these skis turn out to be the same as wider skis for a large skier.

Winter program Progress-Ski, details

Regular (all season) traveling school Progress-Ski in Nechkino, skiing and snowboarding.

Russian "small" resort on the banks of the Kama, coniferous forest on the slopes. Skating day full 12 hours - from 10 am to 10 pm. Well prepared slopes. Snowmaking. Fast chairlift.

Comfortable transport accessibility for Moscow and the middle lane. The most budget trip of the season. Recommended for working on technical excellence, and those for the first time.

A wonderful place to stay - and mega-favorable prices. Great, beautiful place. Good conditions to join skiing and snowboarding!

Dates: November, February, March, more on request. Alpine skiing and snowboarding groups. Children's groups.

Zell am See - Kaprun, Kitzsteinhorn glacier, Austria, Alps

It's amazing - but in the fall, the glacier usually has pure spring weather. Would you like to be in spring in November? With the simultaneous early opening of the season!

Alpine skiing group (snowboarding group - on request).

Karakol, Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan

For beginners - prepared trails, for advanced ones - forest paths, for steep ones - freeride through the forest or in the fields. Each occupation is to their liking and strength. The Central Asian flavor adds a special poignancy to the trip.

Stable one and a half to two meters of snow cover, the ability to be the first to roll out fresh slopes (the number of riders greedy for virgin lands is still small here!), comfortable temperature the whole season, epic landscapes (Issyk-Kul is also visible from the slopes)! For a freerider - the possibility of inexpensive snowmobile and snowcat throws to tasty places.

Good, almost "home" attitude of the local population towards the riders. Feeding hearty Central Asian cuisine, as if for slaughter. An internal Russian passport is enough! And with all these pluses, it is more budgetary than the Alps!