How to choose racing skis. Selection of parameters for skis and poles. How to choose running shoes

Cross-country skiing is traditionally divided into those designed for classic and skating. In the first case, the skier moves his legs, placing the skis parallel to each other, while skating, the step is carried out as on skates, while the span is made wider, taking into account the length of each ski. Thus, when walking, the skier puts the main emphasis on the inside of the ski in order to push off harder. For effective running, equipment must be selected correctly, taking into account all the nuances. What to look for when choosing

Skating is much more difficult than classic. This leads to greater rigidity of the skis, which will allow you to push off more strongly. Of course, having classic skis, you have every right to get acquainted with the technique of skating, but no more, since the expenditure of effort will exceed the pleasure received from speed. Another point that needs attention is the texture of the bottom surface. To prepare for high-speed movement, skis are lubricated with special substances that create better glide, and, accordingly, ease and speed of skiing. So the surface must be smooth. Attributes for skating do not have upturned noses, and they are not as long as for classic walking.

Ski material for skating

High-strength plastic is the material from which most models are made. He practically ousted wooden inventory from the market. This is understandable: plastic breaks less often, it is easier to care for it, plastic is more practical in all respects.

Correct selection of ski stiffness

The way to determine this property of skis is surprisingly simple. Lay the selected model on a flat floor. Get on your skis, make sure that the weight is proportionally distributed over the surface. A sheet of paper should easily pass between the floor and the underside of the ski. This simple manipulation will confirm the presence of a gap of 3-4 millimeters, which you need for a comfortable glide. Too much hard skis will not provide you with proper adhesion to the surface, and a person with heavy weight it will be hard to push off and pick up speed, because the skis will sag unnecessarily, and the weight will be distributed unevenly.

There is a simplified way to test the stiffness of skis, for this you don’t have to “try on” them. Just take two skis and, putting them together, squeeze tightly. Having found a half-centimeter gap between them, you can take it. A smaller gap will indicate excessive softness of the model.

Length of skis and skating poles

For children under 12 years old, the length of the ski is equal to their height. If young athlete older than twelve, add 10-15 cm to his height, this will be the optimal length for him. Add 25 cm to the height of an adult.
As for the sticks, their length should be 15-20 cm less growth. The material from which they are made should be the lightest. Models made of carbon and carbon fiber are lightweight, but expensive. Fiberglass products are great for beginners as they are light, tough and inexpensive.



If you are choosing equipment for a child, then consider all of the above recommendations. In addition, remember: shoes are selected exactly in size. Models "for growth" are unacceptable, because the ankle in them will be poorly fixed, and the risk of injury will increase.

In winter there are great opportunities for active rest and doing sports. One of the most popular activities at this time is skiing on snowy slopes and slopes. But before you go out on the track, you need to get comfortable and functional equipment, as well as equipment - a warm jacket, thermal underwear, boots.

For professional athletes this is very easy to do, as they know all their parameters and the equipment they need. Beginners are usually lost in the store and do not know by what criteria to determine the purchase. In this article, we will tell you how to choose the right cross-country ski size for height and others. important features- model, driving style, stiffness, etc.

Pros and cons of renting

In order to make a purchase for yourself or children, you first need to decide on the question “how often are you going to ride?”. If you are going to do this only a couple of times during the winter, then it is more rational to rent equipment. But at the same time, it is important to remember what disadvantages this option has:
  • Depending on the place of rest, the pick-up point has different amount and equipment quality. Especially hard to get suitable size on weekends and holidays. If your plans include warm-ups in the park near the house or other specialized places, then you will not be able to take the skis outside the fenced area.
  • Each time you have to re-adapt to the features of the model - its rigidity, bending, length, material, fastening.
  • Minor breakdowns, which are not considered at the box office, can spoil the pleasure received from winter sports. Careless care, poor rubbing, loose foot lock, small chips - these shortcomings can greatly affect the style and speed of riding.
On the other hand, you can consider rental points in cases where you plan to go out on the track infrequently. Since it is much cheaper.

If “renting” is not your option, then you should pay attention to the following parameters:
  • The terrain on which you are going to ride. For very hilly terrain, we recommend that you opt for sports or mountain models. And if the area is fairly flat, then buy classic or shortened ones, they do not have strong plasticity, but they are very strong and hard to somehow damage them.
  • First of all, rely on your weight and height, physical fitness, since the width and length of the product will depend on this. If the purchase is intended for your child, then make sure that he can easily lift them and rearrange his leg while standing on the surface.
  • Do you have skiing skills? A lot depends on this. Beginners will also need to purchase other items of equipment - special sticks, protection for the knees, elbows.
  • Pay attention to the stiffness of the skis, because the softer they are, the easier they are to operate. But on them you will not be able to develop a very high speed, as they will bend during the push. When choosing a density, be guided by your weight. If you are a man of dense physique, then you need a massive inventory.
Tip: to check this indicator, attach the sliding sides of the product to each other. In the place where the bend passes, squeeze them with one hand. If it turned out to be done with average effort, this is your option.
  • If the models are made of wood, then you should know: in the spring season or at positive temperatures, they practically cannot slide, but stick to the surface. And plastic ones go great in any weather, as many products are equipped with notches.
If you are purchasing for a primary school child, then it is better not to buy sticks at all, since the task of a beginner is to learn to stand without support. And if for high school, then it is necessary to select support for growth from the armpits to shoulder level. For an adult, the rule is typical - the longer the support, the stronger the push, and hence the speed.

  • On the handle must be present straps for fixation in the wrists. This is due to the driving technique - the hand should relax when the go-ahead is given. If there is no strap, then there is a high risk of losing the element or incorrect driving.
  • There is a tip at the end. It is sharp, since its purpose is to enter the thickness of the snow even with little effort. But if your purchase is for a small child, then you can find a model without such a needle so that he does not inadvertently get hurt.

How to choose the right cross-country skis for height and weight - the nuances


  • The type of model depends only on your preferences. If you want to walk very calmly and enjoy the beauties of nature, then you should buy classic ones. And if you want to overcome the track with sharp turns very quickly, then be sure to take the sports type option.
  • The length must be chosen according to your height. The most common way is to add 15-20 cm to your own centimeters. But remember that this is not optimal for everyone. For example, women's, men's and children's models will be different, even if their owners are the same height. For fragile girls there are special lightweight and shortened offers.
  • With sticks it is much easier - they can be purchased provided that they are 20-25 cm higher than your shoulders.

Table: how to choose cross-country skis by weight and height

There are averages. They are developed by professionals on data obtained by experience. You can rely on them, but do not forget that there are always personal preferences and feelings. There are great athletes who break out of this framework, but this does not affect their skill and speed.

But beginners can safely start fitting in accordance with the recommendations:

For the weaker sex there is a small correction of 5 cm:

It is made because the legs of women are slightly shorter than those of men. These are the natural proportions of the human body. Accordingly, the step of the girls is less.

You can also choose your entire inventory, using only growth and nothing else. How to choose skis by height table:


Or use the following rule according to the inventory type:

Features of the classic move

Our grandparents still rode in this way, but so far this method has not lost its relevance. With this method, sliding occurs on two tracks, which must be parallel to each other. With this ride, you can work out the stability, which is great for beginners.

Correct stiffness

The product has a bend in the middle. If you put it on a flat surface, then the part will not touch the floor. The harder it is to press the wood to the surface, the harder the material.

Algorithm for determining the optimal value:

  • Stand with your feet on all the equipment, put a strip of paper under it. It should move freely there and not get stuck.
  • Now transfer all the weight to one part - the sheet should be tightly pressed, you will not be able to pull it out without damaging it.
Often, manufacturers indicate for what weight a particular model is intended.

The presence of notches

On skis, on the sliding side, there may be special notches.

Their use is intended for beginners, as they will not roll back. For those who are just getting used to this business, this feature will be a great plus. The only downside is that they will stick to wet snow.

Selection of skis for skating

This method has such a name, because when riding, athletes use the technique of speed skaters. To do this, they push off with the active leg and transfer their weight to the other, periodically changing them. With this manner, it is better to use the classic inventory, as it is more rigid. And for simple walks - choose soft and elastic models. They are easier to balance.

Equipment from the brand Stayer



The online store "Stayer" offers a wide range of jackets and overalls made of modern synthetic materials. Their advantages:
  • Resistance to frost, temperature extremes.
  • Moisture repellent feature.
  • The filler does not roll down when washing.
  • Strength - the fabric is not torn from a slight mechanical impact.
Stayer products are very warm, so you can do your favorite sport even in extreme cold.

The company offers products with a bright, memorable, but timeless design. It is suitable for both outdoor activities and for walks in the city in winter.

Finally

We looked at many options for used skis and poles, which are necessary for people of different levels and experience. We have presented tables for you, according to which you can independently determine which model you need to buy.

If you come to a sports store for the first time, then heed the advice of a consultant. With it, you can pick up and try on exactly the inventory that you need. You also need to pay attention to the manufacturer - cheap ones are likely to glide poorly on snow, so you should not save on such a purchase, then it will remain intact for the next generation. It is better to give preference to those manufacturers who have proven themselves well. And then you will be provided with an excellent and exciting ride, you will definitely remember it for a long time. We wish you great winter holiday, have a good rest and go skiing!

The choice of the length (height) of skis depends on several factors: the height of the person, the goal pursued by the person involved, weight, age, the way of skiing. Consider all these criteria for a more correct choice.

How to choose skis for a child. We choose the size of the skis according to the height of the children, the table.

The health of the child depends on the correct selection of children's skis, their length and material! Therefore, this part of the article is given special attention.

How to choose skis for a child based on the material of the skis.

Determining the length (size) of skis for a child, you can start with the fact that skis are wooden, semi-plastic and plastic. So what is the best choice for a child? Skis of the first two types are now rare, even among children's ski options, but in vain, these are the skis that are suitable for beginners, especially for young children who even learned to walk a few years ago.

Many parents underestimate the importance of choosing the right skis for their children. They strive to immediately make a champion out of their child, thereby harming his health. And meanwhile, the most correct would be to choose wooden skis for your child. The thing is that the children's body is not yet properly formed, the necessary muscle groups are not developed in children, bones and ligaments are vulnerable. And only by choosing wooden skis for a child can you protect him.
Let the young athlete first gain confidence, develop balance, his ligaments will get stronger. This may take several months or years. After that, you can already pick up plastic skis for the child.

When choosing children's plastic skis for a child, it must be remembered that these skis are light - this is a plus, but at the same time they are "slippery", which in turn often causes injuries among children. Such skis can develop not correct technique movement.

Children's health is in your hands!

How to choose skis for the height of the child. The size of children's skis.

If your child is just taking his first steps in skiing, choosing skis for him, do not forget that this must be done taking into account the growth of children. If you do not seek to force the success of your child, first choose skis for him, the size of which is 20-40 centimeters higher than the height of the child. Skis of this length will give stability and confidence to the baby, especially on the descents.

For more prepared children, for those who are already mastering skating, it is necessary to choose shorter skis, where the length (height) of the skis is slightly more than the height of the child, by 5-10 centimeters. This will allow him to confidently skate on loose and deep snow, as well as on slopes, where often excessive length leads to the fact that the backs of the skis begin to cling to each other, and the children fall.

Another point that I want to focus on is the noses of the skis. When choosing skis for a child, opt for those skis that have sharp, long, well-curved toes. Choosing such children's skis, the child will not encounter the problem of “stumbling” when moving in deep snow, when the nose of the ski is in a snowdrift and scoops up snow when the leg is lifted. Skis with small rounded noses are only suitable for well-trodden slopes.

How to choose skis for the height of the child table.

This table clearly demonstrates how to choose the right skis for the height of the child:

Table for choosing the length of skis for children.

We select the correct length of skis for an adult or how to choose skis by height and weight using the table.

Ski size sizing is the most popular way to choose ski length. At the same time, you can choose the required length of skis yourself, without anyone's help. To do this, you only need to know your height.

Table of selection of skis by height.


If there is a need to select skis by weight, usually starting from a more advanced level ski training, you need to know your weight, and choose skis according to the markings indicated on the skis yourself, or by contacting the seller.

Further in the choice of skis depends on how you are going to move on skis, skating or classic. We will talk about this further.

How to choose skis for skating.

When choosing skis for skating, in other words, for a skate, you should pay attention to the length of the skis, the material and the manufacturer.

Height and size of skate skis.

Choice of length skating comes down to a simple formula: a person's height plus 5-25 cm. Why such a large variation in height? And how to accurately determine your ski size? The fact is that the selection of the length of skating skis depends both on the individual characteristics of the skier, and on the terrain on which the person will ski (plain, mountains), on the conditions (rolled track or not), on the weather.

The individual characteristics of each skier can only be determined empirically. But with the weather and the track, everything is clear. When choosing skis for skating on a good track, you can take longer skis, especially if you have a good skating technique. This will allow you to move with a long step, the rental will be greater, respectively, and the speed.

If, however, most often you move on loose snow, on a poorly rolled or narrow track, then you should not choose very long skis, as the ski toes will constantly cling to the snow along the edges of the track. In addition, the smaller the size of the skis, the lighter they are. The same is true with the terrain, it is easier to climb uphill on shorter and lighter skis, but for flat skating you should choose longer skis.

Choosing skis for skating.

How to choose skis for skating by material.

To date, there are two types of skis, plastic and, already more rare, semi-plastic. I must say right away that semi-plastic skis are heavier, their sliding surface is worse, but they are cheaper. Beginners and children should choose such skis.

Plastic skis for skating are lighter, choosing such skis for skating you will achieve the greatest results, but they are also more expensive, the price is good skis can reach several tens of thousands, not everyone can buy such skis. It is almost impossible to skate on wooden skis, except perhaps on ice or crust, so you should not choose such skis for skating.

The choice of manufacturer of skis for skating.

There are quite a few ski companies. Today it is possible to purchase skis from all well-known manufacturers. The most popular of them are Fischer, Atomic, Rossignol, Madshus, Salomon, Nordway, Tisa, Elan, Sable, Karjala, Nordica, Swix. The first five ski manufacturers are the most popular among athletes, but they are also more expensive than the rest. Therefore, a beginner may not immediately choose expensive skis for himself, but hone his skating skills on cheaper options.

Only an athlete can understand the difference among the top ski manufacturers, someone likes and fits Fischer skis, and another Atomic or Rossignol. Therefore, at the moment, the choice of a manufacturer of skis for skating for a person who does not set himself serious tasks comes down more to the aesthetics, appearance and color scheme of a particular ski model.

The length of the skis with classic moves.

Choosing the length of skis for classic move it is necessary to be guided by a simple formula: ski size \u003d human height + 15-40cm. As we can see, the length of the skis for the classics is slightly longer than for the skate. This is due to the fact that with classic moves, the skier, most often, moves along the knurled track.

How to choose the right skis for classic skiing.


A large ski size gives a more straightforward movement, the skis do not “walk” from side to side. Also, the length of the skis affects the speed. But you should not choose very long skis, you can “get confused” in them, and besides, such skis are more difficult to manage, especially when cornering.

Classic ski width.

When choosing classic skis, one should not forget about their width. For example, if you are skiing in snowdrifts, then the width of the ski should be larger.

The choice of the sliding surface of the skis for the movement of the classic move.

The sliding surface of skis for classics may differ from skating. In the middle of the ski, under the block, there may be a scaly volumetric pattern that will prevent the skis from sliding back.

Selection of skis by temperature.

When choosing skis, you should not drop such important factor how is the weather, especially if you want to achieve good results in skiing. The quality of sliding is influenced by factors of temperature, humidity and even the structure of the snow itself.

Now there are skis for both cold and warm weather. We will not go into technical details, just note that cold skis will “feel” worse in warm weather than special warm skis. Therefore, it is recommended that in order to achieve best results, purchase and have in your arsenal both “warm” and “cold” skis. Fortunately, buying such skis is not a problem now.

What are the differences when choosing walking and cross-country (cross-country) skis.

The choice of skis depends on the goals that you set for yourself. It can be just walks for health and relaxation, pastime with family or friends, or maybe classes in a sports school and performance at competitions.

When choosing walking skis, both for skating and for classics, it is necessary to be guided by reliability and comfort. Therefore, walking skis can be heavier, stronger, longer than racing skis. It all depends on the individual characteristics and financial possibilities to buy certain skis.

Skis of which manufacturer's company is more correct to choose.

Above, in the part of the article where we talked about how to choose skis for skating, the main ski manufacturers have already been listed. It was also said that at the moment such firms as Fischer, Atomic, Madshus and Rossignol are at about the same level. The rest of the ski manufacturers are lagging behind or not yet up to the desired level.

If you are an amateur, not an athlete skier, or even just starting to take your first steps in skiing, then you should not immediately buy expensive skis. Start by choosing simple, inexpensive models. And then it will be seen whether it is worth buying better and more expensive skis, because often the price of skis is due to technologies and materials that you may not need, in addition, of course, well-known ski brands have a price markup simply for their fame and popularity.

Summing up on the topic of how to choose the right skis for yourself.

Choose your skis and hit the road.


Skiing has been confidently holding a leading position among popular sports for a long time, in Russia, among other things, thanks to our climate. The benefits of skiing cannot be underestimated. On skis, you can take walks for health and pastime, you can practice on your own or in a sports school, compete in competitions.

For walks, by and large, any skis are suitable, the main thing is fresh air and company, getting the joy of walking. To achieve good results in skiing, it is necessary to choose high-quality, sometimes expensive, ski models, and preferably not one pair, but several. Athletes may have ten or twenty.

Therefore, make your choice, buy skis and get joy, health and achieve your goals.

From this article you will learn how to pick up a beginner skier cross-country skiing and poles for height, as well as how to choose the right size for ski boots. Below are tables for selecting ski sizes and boot sizes.

Choice of cross-country skis and poles

In order to choose the right cross-country ski length, you need to decide what style you are going to ride - classic (on the ski track) or skating:

  • For a classic move, add to your height 20-25 cm
  • For skating, add to your height 10-15 cm

There are two types:

  • Notched (step): the notch is a ribbed sliding surface of the ski in the binding area. The notch allows the skis not to slip and not to use holding ointments. Perfect for pleasure skiing with classic cross-country skiing.


  • With a smooth sliding surface (wax): these are skis without a system of notches, the sliding surface is smooth, the use of holding ointments is required. Unlike notched skis, these skis are suitable for any style of skiing and are better suited for combined skiing, skating, and sport skiing.

When selecting ski pole lengths also focus on the style of riding:

  • Sticks for the classic move should be about 25 cm smaller than your height. In this case, when you are skiing in boots, the sticks will go into the snow up to their feet, and the handle of the sticks will reach your armpits. It is this length of ski poles that is optimal for classic skiing.
  • For skating ski poles should be longer - approximately 15 cm less than your height.

Table of selection of cross-country skis and poles by height:

Skate style Height Classic style
skis sticks cm skis sticks
200 175 195 210 165
200 175 190 205 165
200 170 185 205 160
195 165 180 200-205 155
190 160 175 195-200 150
185 155 170 190-195 145
180 150 165 185-190 140
175 145 160 180-185 135
170 140 155 180 130
165 135 150 170 125
160 130 145 170 120
155 125 140 160 115
150 120 135 160 110
145 115 130 150 105
140 110 125 150 100
135 105 120 140 95
130 100 115 140 90
120 95 110 130 85
120 90 105 130 80
110 90 100 120 80

Choice of cross-country ski bindings

The most popular types are:

  • 75 mm (NN75)- classic steel fasteners (three-pin system), familiar to everyone since Soviet times, are still very popular due to their simplicity, reliability and low cost. These mounts are perfect for touring.
  • NNN and SNS- modern binding systems, differing from each other with guides for boots along the bindings. Such mounts are better suited for more active and sporty riding.

Choice of ski boots

All are made from modern frost-resistant synthetic materials, less often - from genuine leather.

All ski boots are insulated, which allows you to pick up boots of your size without a stock and wear them without a woolen sock. We recommend using thermal socks.

The sole of the ski boots is suitable for a specific binding system: 75 mm, NNN or SNS:

  • Boots for bindings 75 mm are available in standard Russian sizes. The size of the boots can be chosen completely according to your foot size.
  • Boots for NNN / SNS bindings are produced in Euro sizes, which are approximately 1.5-2 sizes smaller than Russian ones, i.e. if you wear Russian size 39, then you should take size 41 boots.

The easiest way to choose your shoe size is to measure with a ruler shoe insole length that you are wearing.If it is not possible to get the insole out of the shoe, then it is necessary to measure the length of the foot. How to do it correctly - see under the table below.

Ski boot size selection table according to insole length:

Insole length, cm Russia size Euro size
19 - 30
19,5 - 31
20 30 -
20,5 31 32
21,5 32 33
22 33 34
22,5 34 35
23 35 36
24 36 37
24,5 37 38
25 - 39
25,5 38 40
26 39 41
26,5 40 -
27 41 42
27,5 - 43
28 42 44
28,5 43 -
29 44 45
29,5 - 46
30 45 47
30,5 46 -
31 47 -

How to measure your foot length correctly:

Stand on a piece of paper so that your heels only lightly touched behind the wall (doors, cabinet sides, etc.). If you press your heel hard against the wall, the measurement will be wrong.

The weight of the body should be transferred to the leg being measured.

Hold a pencil strictly vertical, do not get it under your fingers!

Mark lines near the thumb and second finger, draw a line along the wall. Measure the maximum distance between the marks with a ruler. Measure both feet as size may vary.

Ready ski sets

In our online store you can choose and buy, consisting of cross-country skis, poles, bindings, boots and ski bundles.

We have prepared for you several options on skis of the Russian manufacturer STC (Center sports technology). You can choose skis with or without notches. The kit includes 75 mm or NNN/SNS bindings, matching ski boots, some ski kits include additional accessories - a ski bag and a set of ski waxes.

Especially for parents of schoolchildren, we have 2 options for inexpensive Ski set Schoolboy: a simple and budget kit with 75mm mounts and a kit with NNN / SNS mounts. Both sets of skis are perfect for physical education at school, as well as just for skiing and skiing in the winter.

If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.

Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.

There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.

This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.

I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.

Ski selection

Still plastic...

First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, returns on plastic skis can be avoided, but we will talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.

Start with the classics

When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).

Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)

What skis to choose for a beginner?

First, about prices. Racing skis standing on top model range well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomik, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training then you will understand what you need and where to go. The exception is if you big weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.

What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.

Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for a long time. long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and track preparation require skiing. different requirements. Therefore, in the world of cross-country skiing, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve best glide under certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.

Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.

Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.

There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. A regular skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.

How to choose skis

As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis(ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com):


The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have a maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):

That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).

You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.

So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.

The course of action may be as follows:

1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.

2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.

Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.

3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For the classics correct definition stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote "A short course of discipline Skiing" RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the binding (meaning about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should be in contact with the floor. "In practice, this is easy to check - one person stands on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you stand on both skiing, then the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block.If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor.Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor.Check one person can do it with a sheet of paper, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the block.

If conditions do not allow this method to be applied, then the stiffness can be approximately determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).

Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.

The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.


If you didn’t manage to pick up classic skis in terms of stiffness - those that are were a bit soft, then you can calmly look at the skis a little longer. As a rule, the longer the skis, the stiffer they are. For example, the Fisher company in mass models generally switched to a direct dependence of the length of skis on the weight of the skier. Of course, such a number will not work with skating skis, and for classic skis, the length is not so critical.

Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (I mean soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)

Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".

Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:

  • The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
  • At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
  • With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
  • With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
    (This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)

(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)

4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)

5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.

Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.

There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.

6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.

If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:

The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and power load carry mainly laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.

Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.

If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.

Choice of ski boots

If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways protection of expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.

Choice of ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.

Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.

If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings, which were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.

Height, cm Skate, cm Classic, see
150 130 120
152 132 122
155 135 125
157 137 127
160 140 130
165 145 135
170 150 140
172 152 142
175 155 145
178 157 147
180 160 150
182 162 152
185 165 155
187 167 157
190 170 160
192 172 162
195 175 165

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear back(!!!) skis.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember good words his wife ... In short, you need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with your feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.

Ski waxes

Lubricants are available different types. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.

From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions you may run into some problems:

  • Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
  • Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
  • The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

  • Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
  • Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
  • Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
  • Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
  • Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
  • Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
  • Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
  • Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
  • A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
  • Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
  • Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins when primary processing skis or when lubricated for heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What ski wax to buy for ski preparation

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.


This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.


Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main "household" advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong smell.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.


This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.



mob_info