Lubrication of skis under the skate. Lubrication of skis under the classic course. How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis

Manufacturers recommend applying paraffins in layers, eg SWIX: CH-LF-HF (START: SG-LF-HF). Fluorine free - light fluoride - high fluoride. Why? It is very important that the sliding surface (SP) be covered with paraffin without micro-passing. And paraffins with a high fluorine content well repel not only water, but also do not wet plastic in the best way, stick. Fluorine-free paraffins adhere better to the joint venture. Therefore, it is correct to first moisten the joint venture of new skis with CH (SG) paraffin (to make the base, the basis for the next layers), then with less sticky paraffins. This layer of paraffin performs the function of initial wetting; in the future, the use of fluorine-free paraffin for the base is not necessary.

The concept of "layer" serves only to make it easier to explain to the user the essence of the process. In fact, all layers are remelted and the resulting mixture has a very small percentage of paraffin, which started with. Recall the application process: I melted a large amount of paraffin on the joint venture, cleaned it with a scraper and brushes to the thinnest layer, then again fill the joint venture with a large amount of more fluoride paraffin. A small amount of CH is remelted with a large amount of LF. Similarly with HF-paraffin. Despite the small amount, the influence of the base wax on the properties of the final alloy is still there. Therefore, a layer of more fusible, more plastic paraffin is applied under frosty paraffins, which prevents overheating and chipping, and hard frosty ones are applied under warm paraffins with abrasive snow.

What kind of paraffin to apply the powder?

Fluorocarbon powders provide the best water repellency and good glide. The problem is applying the fluorocarbon film to the ski. Not only does the molten powder poorly wet polyethylene-based plastic, it is also easy to melt the joint venture. In order for the powders to work for a long time and effectively, an intermediate layer of synthetic fluoride paraffin is necessary. START recommends applying SFR(powders) to HF paraffin. And according to the recommendations of SWIX, not only a bunch of HF-FC (different powders) is possible, but also bunches of LF7-FC, LF8-FC and LF10-FC. In practice, no decrease in the stability of the powder layer, laid not on HF, but on LF SWIX, was observed. This does not mean that the glide will be the same or that LF is always worse. You have to try. And only in order to avoid unnecessary uncertainty, amateurs under powders often impose HF.

Which company's paraffins roll better?

The problem is solved by enumeration, i.e., rolling back a set of options. There are a lot of lubricant manufacturers, no money is enough to try them all. What should a hobbyist buy? In stores, SWIX and START are the most common. Take them. My recommended set of lubricants for the Moscow region tritely simple: HF80 START, LF6 SWIX, HF7 SWIX, HF8 SWIX. Frosty paraffins roll without additives, warmer ones are suitable for one of the lubrication options for frozen, transformed snow. Other options require coating of paraffins with powders. The use of powders, in addition to their excellent work at high humidity, is also justified by the fact that warm paraffins have a wear resistance problem. Powders increase the stability of the lubricant. I recommend powder F9-20(±4°) from the "9th element". Suspensions (activator F9-01, in particular) and powders, tablets and powders are combined to create a continuous coating of the joint venture with fluorocarbon. For example, first they rub the ski with a tablet, then the powder is melted. There is no danger of touching the joint venture with a hot iron, there is always a layer. Since only a thin film of fluorocarbon is needed, less powder is used. This is more economical (total tablet + powder) and safer for the SP than running with a single powder. I often use the SFR99(±9°) START tablet on my own on stale, stale snow and at temperatures colder than recommended for F9-20 powder. Tablet and powder are not the same thing. At least, the conditions for the use of tablets and powders are often separated by humidity. START recommends using powders as a top coat at higher humidity than tablets.

For Peter, in my opinion, it is easier to select a lubricant. Humidity is always high, a lot of fresh snow. There are fewer options. The whole line of PHF paraffins from START is good. Polymeric paraffins are also favored by their high dirt-repellent properties, which is important when the ski track is prepared with a smoky Buran. Polymer waxes allow you to use the same lubricant for training and competition. Simply cheaper than conventional fluorocarbon powders, and even more so polymer ones. (You can also get away with a cheaper lubricating iron.) And in most cases, without loss of glide quality. Only in marathons can a fundamental difference be noticeable. Now paraffins of the PHF series are not produced, but they can still be bought. Something else in the cold, the same HF80.

Have both lines of lubricants and for St. Petersburg, and for Moscow is very useful. Difficult snow problems are easier to solve, especially near 0°. By the way, polymer waxes can be a good base for powders. You can make the minimum allowable set for an amateur from just three paraffins: HF80(-7°-25°), PHF600(-1°-6°) from START and HF7(-2°-8°) from SWIX. Here PHF600 for high humidity, HF7 for snow dried by night frost, non-abrasive. Paraffins, if necessary, can be mixed by applying in a checkerboard pattern and remelted. In most cases, you will be fine sliding in the cold. Even without powders. And you don’t need water lubrication, because it won’t help if you don’t have plus skis.

By Dan Brown slips / does not slip - the concept is relative, not absolute. No need to hope that for every condition of snow there is a lubricant that allows you to roll perfectly. Successful lubrication will allow you to roll better than other skiers. Brown also writes: keep it simple.

PHF waxes from START are polymeric high fluorine waxes. Good at high (> 85% strictly!) Humidity. Can serve as a replacement for traditional fluorocarbon powders. (Not at marathons.) START itself writes this in the package insert for the PHF200 and PHF400 paraffins! Recommended for use on old and dirty snow. In my experience, PHFs are good for fresh snow that hasn't lost moisture. The properties of different paraffins are described below, the characteristic episodes of testing are given. The glide quality was determined in comparison with the glide of skis treated with other lubricants and relative to other skiers.

Paraffins PHF

PHF200 (+1°+10°) is very good. Maximum water repellency. Soft, plastic. It is cleaned with a brush to a thin film, which is durable, does not loosen for a long time, does not turn gray. I tried it in St. Petersburg on the "Priboy" at + 5 °, after rain. Spring coarse-grained dirty snow. Needles, twigs. After passing 25 km, the paraffin is in place, there is a barely noticeable whitishness under the block. Rubbed with white paper, the paper remained clean. Didn't pick up dirt.

If the spring sun shines on the ski track, then the 200 rolls perfectly down to -6 °. The base matters! Used CH7(-2°-8°)SWIX. CH7 gives a solid base, without gaps, as evidenced by a solid oily sheen.

PHF400 (-1°+1°) was disappointing. Goes gray faster than 200. Old snow - minus, fresh - plus. Too similar to PHF600. At temperatures warmer than -1 °, mid-frost skis do not roll on any lubricant. On positive skis, the 200 worked better than the 400.

PHF600 (-1°-6°) is very good from -2° to -6°. On fresh fluffy snow is magnificent. However, there is fresh snow falling in the form of grains, on which the PHF600 slows down. I got on such snow at a temperature of -2 ° and -6 °.

PHF800 (-6°-12°) hard, needs to be ground to powder for ease of application. I tried it in Chulkov near Moscow after a heavy snowfall, at a temperature of -10 °. Rare weather from nighttime warmth (-8°) to daytime frost. Rolled great. Best of all starters. In St. Petersburg, in its temperature range, it always rolls.

Snow in Moscow and St. Petersburg

There is a difference in the properties of snow near St. Petersburg and in the Moscow region. The suburbs are drier, the snow is often old. Polymer paraffins, traveling in St. Petersburg almost always, in the Moscow region may not be the best. In the Moscow region, START BM6 paraffin with molybdenum is popular, which is impossible to imagine on fresh St. Petersburg snow. Amateur starts in the Moscow region are more massive, the snow is mixed more strongly. So there are no traces left of the fresh. And often the clay is turned outward.

Pro sometimes they apply different lubricant to the toe and heel of the ski. This is understandable, because the toe forms a water film, and the heel rolls along the finished one.

For the base at temperatures warmer than -10° I recommend CH7 from SWIX (423 REX BLUE is also good, I like SG4 from START less.), for colder temperatures - SG6 from START or LF6 from SWIX. Despite the hardness, they are easy to apply. START recommends using even more refractory SG8 or LF8 as a base for abrasive snow, but these glass-like paraffins are inconvenient to work with, you can overheat bare plastic. In theory, before applying HF, PHF or nano-paraffin, it is necessary to add light fluoride BWLF from START. I consider it redundant. There are no problems when applying paraffin to paraffin.

There is no pure snow

Skis melt soot out of the snow and much more. Dirt settles on the joint venture, accumulates in the furrows of the structure. Skis must be washed from dirt. If you lubricate dirty skis, then just spoil the new paraffin, it will lose its sliding properties. The easiest way is to wash with base wax, the one you will use today. Simply apply new paraffin wax and clean it with a brass brush. It is even better to clean the structure with an ultra-fine steel brush, wipe off dust with a cloth, and only then rinse. Do not store dirty skis for a long time! During long breaks in skiing, the skis must be covered pure paraffin. Otherwise, the wettability of the plastic with paraffin will be greatly affected, which will necessarily affect the wear resistance of the lubricant.

Service paraffin

It is convenient to wash the joint venture with fusible service paraffin. For example, BP99 SWIX or SOFT SKI-GO. With service paraffin, the dirt is well washed off (the main thing is safe for the joint venture) and ends up on the iron. It must be washed from the iron, otherwise it will burn. Service wax is also applied to new skis at the initial stage of preparation. Then, dissolving in a more refractory basic paraffin, the service one will serve as its conductor into the fine grooves of the structure.

subtle matter

Wear-resistant only the thinnest layer of paraffin! A thick layer quickly loosens, turns gray. To create a thin layer, I use a manual brass brush. For soft paraffins I prefer combined rotary brush of horsehair and white nylon, and a reversible drill. I brush with half a horsehair brush until the white powder stops flying from the skis. Then lightly 2-3 passes with an ultra-fine manual steel brush to work out the structure. Then polished with white nylon. Accurate adherence to SKI-GO recommendations. Quote from the manual: “Only a very thin film of the last applied lubricant should remain on the surface of the grooves of the structure. Skis that are poorly brushed do not give optimal glide.”

Application of hard frost wax from a bar is difficult, leads to a high consumption of paraffin. Powder versions of frosty paraffins VAUHTI, SKI-GO, SWIX are convenient, economical.

How to grind paraffins into powder yourself?

We melt the bar on the iron, pour drops of molten paraffin into a basin of water. The resulting paraffin flakes are collected, dried on paper. Then we grind in small portions on a clean electric coffee grinder. It is not necessary to throw away the coffee grinder afterwards - paraffin residues are easy to remove. Small grains of paraffin require much less heat to melt than a bar. They are easy to distribute evenly on the slide. We melt with an iron, pressing the powder from above. The consumption of paraffin is reduced, less work with a scraper and brush. It becomes convenient to use frosty paraffin.

Important Details

When choosing a lubrication option, it is necessary, first of all, to take into account the condition of the snow, its structure. How long ago did it fall, what was the daily temperature range? The large diurnal variation in temperatures rapidly ages the snow. The way to prepare the ski track is important. If the ski track is prepared with a snowcat, then the lower old snow is mixed with fresh upper snow. Moreover, they melt it, spending a lot of power of the machine. If the ski track is rolled down with your feet, then there is more fresh snow on top. There are many states of snow, for example, fresh snow for lubrication is not the same as fresh falling snow. And falling snow comes in the form of fluffy large flakes and in the form of small grains ...

It is desirable to check the glide of skis, lubricants on snow of exactly the structure and degree of rolling, which is expected at the competition.

One rule for choosing paraffins

The recommendations of lubricant manufacturers look something like this: for new and old snow in the temperature range from ... to ... And the temperature ranges of several paraffins of the same line intersect. This allows the lubricant to more accurately adapt to the structure of the snow.

For most paraffins, the cold end of the application temperature range corresponds to fresh snow, and the warm end to old snow.(Not always, there are paraffins, the purpose of which is snow of a certain structure only, which is necessarily written in the manufacturer's manual.)

And with fresh snow, you need to try paraffin of a colder range, and with old snow - warmer.
This does not apply to icy, aggressive snow. For him, hard, frosty paraffin is needed, the fluorine content is often unimportant. A molybdenum additive is desirable.

With paraffins, structures, ski diagrams in the most general sense, everything obeys a single rule: new, fluffy snow does not adhere tightly to the SP, like a “blotter” takes water from a water film, requires a harder paraffin for sliding, a smoother structure, a smoother diagram, than follows from the readings of the thermometer.

The history of skiing goes back several thousand years. They were invented by the ancient peoples who lived in the north, who needed to move quickly in the snow. Skiing appeared only at the end of the 19th century and significantly influenced appearance the skis themselves, the material and features of their care.

Depending on the needs and purpose, skis are divided into three large groups:

1. Classic: have a solid base and a small cutout at the narrowest point;
2. Skiboards: These are short (75-110 cm) skis for downhill skiing. They differ from the classics in smaller sizes and wider cutouts at the waist, and they also lack protection in the event of a fall due to lightweight fastening. They are divided into models for free descent and stunt;
3. Carving: used for descents from the mountains in an arc. They have a large side cutout, classic fastening and low rigidity.

There is also a more modern classification of alpine skiing:

1. Allmountain: non-specialized (universal) cross-country skiing for any descent, weather and terrain. It is difficult to set a record for them, but it will be possible to conduct “reconnaissance” of a new area without problems;
2. Freeride: their length is 185-195 cm, waist width is more than 9 cm.
3. Big Mountain: One of the options for freeride skis. Used when riding on loose snow and unpacked, unprepared roads, for aggressive descent along the "wild" mountains;
4. Powder: Another option for freeride skis, designed for skiing only in deep snow;
5. Carving: characterized by a small length and a deep neckline. Used when driving on specially prepared tracks. Riding them is characterized by slow movements and smooth turns. Depending on the terrain, there are sports carv (for normal driving), free carv (for relief terrain) and supercarv (for skiing without sticks);
6. Racing: used in professional competitions in downhill, slalom and giant slalom;
7. Cross-country models: used for group cross-country skiing on mountain race tracks;
8. Freestyle: These are skis for performing acrobatic stunts. They feature specially curved heels to soften landings;
9. Mogul: for walking along the mogul (mounds);
10. Children and teenagers: differ in a special form.

Popular manufacturers:

1. Budget: "Atemi", "Larsen", "Tisa", "Dynamik";
2. Premium class: "Fischer", "Madshus", "Rossignol", "Atomis".

The nuances of professional ski training

No matter how professional and expensive skis are, without special training little suitable for operation, and the pleasure of riding is reduced to zero and even dangerous. It does not matter whether they are intended for professional competitions or amateur run - preparation is necessary in any case. All skiers need to know how to properly prepare their skis and what products to use.

Ski preparation takes place in several steps:

1. Cleaning the sliding surface with a stiff brush. This allows you to clean off the old grease and remove bumps;
2. Applying paraffin. This increases the stability of the ointment. Paraffin is applied hot: after cooling, the excess is removed;
3. Application additional funds: paraffin or special lubricants. The latter can be water-repellent, accelerating or provide additional traction. The choice of ointment depends on the specific situation and the sport.

Surface cleaning

This First stage ski processing. This will help remove old wax layers, smooth the surface and open the pores, and help the waxes penetrate deeper into the skis.

For cleaning at home, you will need a brass or steel brush, which you need to run several times along the bottom (sliding) surface of the ski, and then clean off all excess paraffin with a nylon brush. It is necessary to brush from the heel to the toe about 50 times. The old paraffin must be heated with an iron to melt the paraffin, then completely scrape off.

Surface preparation

No special preparation of the sliding surface is required. After cleaning off the old grease with a brush, it is ready for the application of paraffin or ointment.

It is important to note several nuances of preparation:

1. Cleaning the groove: it is cleaned after the old wax has been warmed up, but before it is completely removed with a scraper or scraper. This must be done in this order so that if the scraper accidentally slips out, the surface is protected;
2. Checking the edges (side surfaces) before riding. They should not have scratches, notches and dents. If the edges are blunt, they need to be sharpened: turning with blunt edges is difficult and dangerous, especially when skating;
3. Applying the structure. Ski sliding occurs due to the melting of snow near the surface, due to which the ski slides over a thin layer of moisture. However, if the layer is too thin or, conversely, thick, the skier may have problems. to prevent this from happening, a structure is applied to the sliding surface - this is a system of grooves, similar to the “pattern” on tires. This allows excess water to escape, helping to slow down.

The structure is applied by the manufacturer, but if it does not suit the owner of the equipment, he can change the pattern. This can be done manually using manual knurling or by machine. The latter is called "Steinshlift".

Information about ski lubricants

When choosing a lubricant for skis, the following nuances should be considered:

1. Air temperature: recommended is usually indicated on the package. Snow temperature may also be given, but is more difficult to determine;
2. Humidity: You don't need to measure it exactly. Average values ​​are usually sufficient: in a dry climate, the humidity does not exceed 50%, in a climate of average humidity it is 50-80%, in a humid climate it can reach 100%;
3. The grain or appearance of the snow. Sharp snowflakes require a dense ointment that will protect the skis. At low temperatures, it is best to choose an ointment with synthetic additives, at elevated (greater than zero) - water-repellent.

All lubricants are divided into two large groups:

1. Paraffin: This is a wax-like lubricant for sliding. It is used for wooden and plastic skis. It is necessary that snow does not stick to the surface. They can also be used as a base for other lubricants;
2. Ointments: these are holding lubricants, they link the skis to the ski track when pushing. Usually they are applied to the ends of the skis so that they can push off, but some skiers apply it entirely to the entire sliding surface. The choice of ointment depends on the temperature, and a warmer one is applied under the block. For example, if it is 10 degrees outside, then ointments with a temperature of 5-12 degrees are applied to the ends, and 5-8 degrees under the block.

Lubricants are also divided:

1. The composition of the mineral, synthetic, combined. Additionally, they may contain fluorine, graphite or resin;
2. By consistency, lubricants are solid and semi-solid, liquid, emulsions, powders, sprays, pastes. Three latest states usually produced professional products. How to apply powder on skis must be read in advance in the instructions, but in general the procedure does not differ from waxing: the powder is applied to the surface and heated with an iron.

Features of applying to skis

Applying paraffin is considered one of the most dangerous procedures, as you have to use a heated iron. You need to wax after cleaning the top layer.

1. The ski is carefully fixed on the machine or other flat surface so that it does not fall;
2. Paraffin is applied to the bottom surface. If it is solid, it will have to be slightly melted. For example, you can heat a piece of paraffin and run it over a ski. The layer thickness should be 0.5-1 mm;
3. After the paraffin is carried out with a heated iron. The iron should not be too hot so that the paraffin does not evaporate at all, it is better to choose the minimum temperature that is enough for warming up. Usually it is 60 degrees. You need to carry out quickly, without stopping, once, without force. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski: if you stop, the paraffin will quickly evaporate and the iron will damage the surface;
4. When the layer hardens (it takes 15-20 minutes), polishing is carried out - the excess is removed with a scraper. It is important not to change the level of inclination, otherwise pits will form on the surface;
5. If necessary, apply 1-2 more layers. Instead of paraffin, other ointments can be applied: accelerators, fluorocarbon powders;
6. Finally, the surface is polished. You can polish it with fiberlen (a special non-woven material), but you can also use a piece of felt or even woolen or nylon socks.

A few tips will help you understand how to prepare your skis at home in the most optimal way:

1. Inexpensive quick-apply lubricants can be used in place of paraffin. They are applied without ironing and polishing and “dry” in a few minutes. But they are enough for 5-7 km, after which the ointment will have to be applied again. This option is suitable for rarely riding people - for ski marathon it won't fit;
2. It is equally important to check the fasteners in advance and, if necessary, carry out repairs. They must be clean, free of rust, cracks and other mechanical damage, have good fastening;
3. When choosing a lubricant, it is important to consider the final goal. For example, it is worth using the accelerator only when participating in races - in other cases it can only do harm;
4. On new skis or after machine sanding, factory pile often remains. You can remove it with fibertex, but this is not necessary: ​​usually the pile disappears after a few months of riding;
5. In order to not have to mess with the equipment, it is necessary to ensure that they are properly stored.

In order for skis to last longer and sports to be safe, it is necessary to properly care for the equipment and lubricate it regularly. Preparation should be regular, it is best to do it before each ride, and before the season it is worth fully checking the equipment. Preparation is important not only professional athletes, but also for amateurs, as well as owners of hunting skis.

SKI PREPARATION

1. Factors affecting the choice of ointment.

Temperature.

Before you start preparing skis for a race or just a walk, you need to take into account a number of factors - air temperature (snow), air humidity (snow), type of snow (granularity).

Air temperature (snow)

Today you can find out the air temperature in a particular area without leaving your home, just open one or another weather widget. It is much more difficult with the snow temperature, it must be measured directly on the track.

Usually, the air temperature is indicated on the packages of paraffin (ointments). The temperature of the snow can also be helpful. But remember that when the temperature of the snow has reached the freezing point (0 C), then it will not grow further, regardless of the increase in air temperature. In this case, it is better to use the air temperature and pay attention to the water content of the snow.

Humidity.

Humidity is more important as a local climate trend and does not need to be accurately measured. It is important to know if you are riding in a dry climate zone with an average humidity of 50%; in a normal climate zone with a humidity of 50% - 80% or in a humid climate from 80% to 100%.

Snow grain.

For right choice ointments, the type of snow crystals and the type of resulting surface are also important. Falling or very fresh fresh snow is the most difficult situation for lubrication. Sharp crystals require an ointment that does not allow the penetration of snow crystals, but at higher temperatures it must also be water-repellent. Freshly poured snow at low temperatures especially requires synthetic paraffin additives. When the air temperature rises above 0 C, the temperature of the snow remains 0 C. The amount of water surrounding the snow crystals increases until the snow becomes saturated with water. In this case, strongly water-repellent ointments and a deep structural pattern of the sliding surface are required.

2. Ski preparation tool

Tables and machines

First of all, for the lubrication and processing of skis, we need a table of convenient height, equipped with the necessary devices for work (electric sockets, additional lighting, etc.). Tables can be both self-made and produced by some firms (for example, “SWIX”), stationary or portable, with a wide variety of designs and their modifications.

Machine - a device on which you can strengthen the ski so that it has support along its entire length. Machines can be, just like tables, homemade or “branded”. By design, they can be very different (one-piece, collapsible, with variable length, etc.). Usually they are attached to the table with clamps or have independent “legs”. The last option is designed to work in the "field" conditions.

Thermal devices

The main purpose of thermal devices is the heating of paraffins and ointments. Commonly used electric irons, heated irons, gas burners, hair dryers. Preference is given to appliances that do not use open flames and that can maintain a constant, controlled temperature for a long time. Of all the existing thermal devices, the most used are:

electric irons - for melting paraffins and powders.

hair dryers - to melt the holding ointment applied under the ski block. If you use an iron for this purpose, you will only achieve that the ointment will “scatter” into the groove and onto the sides of the ski. Hair dryers, unlike irons, are much more suitable for melting the ointment, since they allow you to heat it evenly.

gas burners - usually used in "field" conditions, where there is no access to the mains.

Cycles, scrapers

Metal scrapers - serve to level sliding surfaces and remove lint (the hardness of the steel from which the scraper is made and its thickness depend on how large a layer of plastic you need to remove).

Metal cycles are produced by various companies (“TOKO”, “SWIX”, etc.) or made to order from special grades of steel.

Soft metal makes it possible to sharpen cycles in normal, “field” conditions using special sharpening. Hard metal involves sharpening cycles only in the factory.

SCRAPERS FROM PLEXI, PLASTIC processing of the sliding surface after application of paraffins. Available in 3.4 and 5 mm thickness. Thicker scrapers are designed to remove colder and therefore harder wax.

RAZORS are used to remove lint after mechanical and manual grinding (sanding) of skis.

SCRAPER FOR CLEANING THE GUTTER are available in various varieties. Now scrapers are becoming more common, their shape resembling fountain pens.

brushes

Brushes are designed for the final finishing of the sliding surface of the skis. There are two types: conventional (for manual processing) and rotary (for mechanized processing using power tools).

For manual processing, brushes of several varieties are used:

metal (brass, bronze, steel)

nylon (hard, medium, soft)

natural (usually from horsehair)

combined (brass-nylon, bronze-nylon, brass-natural, natural-nylon)

polishing (in the form of natural cork or block with flannel).

For mechanized processing (in this case, electric or cordless drills are used as a drive), rotary brushes are used. They are placed on a special axis, one side of which serves as a handle for holding, and the other is attached to the drill chuck.

Rotary brushes are similar in terms of the “bristle” materials used to the manual brushes listed above.

METAL BRUSHES

(except steel) are mainly used to clean the sliding surface and microstructure from old paraffin and dirt.

STEEL BRUSHES

usually used not so much to remove paraffin, but to apply a fine microstructure to the sliding surface (depending on weather conditions).

Steel brush	copper brush	brass brush

NYLON BRUSHES

are hard, medium and soft. Hard wax is used to remove harder (frosty) paraffin, medium wax is used to remove soft wax (intended for transitional and warm weather). Soft brushes are used for final polishing of sliding surfaces.

Nylon brush hard	Nylon brush soft	Nylon brush medium

NATURAL BRUSHES

are used to remove soft wax and to treat surfaces after powders and accelerators have been applied to them.

POLISHING BRUSHES

are used for dry (without the use of an iron) method of applying compressed and conventional (loose) powders.

TIP: It will be better if you use one specific brush for each type of powder. In other words, it is not necessary to process positive and frosty powder with the same brush.

Fibrous porous fabric (fibertex)

Fibertex is a non-woven nylon fiber with or without abrasive microparticles.

RIGID FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

used to remove pile after scraping the sliding surface.

SOFT FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

To remove the upper very thin layer of the surface (in fact, a kind of smoothing) without changing the structure of the ski.

FIBERTEX WITHOUT ABRASIVE

serves for polishing sliding surfaces.

3. Paraffins and holding ointments

Paraffins

Paraffins are the basis for the care of the sliding surface. For most leading manufacturers, the line of paraffins has two or three varieties of ointment for different snow temperatures. In addition, waxes can vary in the content of fluorine and other additives. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are more expensive, they are more "slippery", but at the same time they are quickly wiped off the sliding surface. Additionally, all-weather ground paraffins are produced - not very slippery, but cheap, they are mainly used to prepare skis for long-term storage and transportation. It is customary to make paraffins for different snow temperatures in different colors. Commonly used yellow for warmer snow, red for colder snow, and blue for the coldest of paraffins. Ground paraffin is usually white, like regular medical wax. The application of paraffin is a separate topic, and will be discussed below.

Pastes and aerosols

Fluoride pastes and aerosols are generally "all-weather". The manufacturer claims that they glide well on snow of any temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Snow is a complex structure. There are such combinations of its temperature and crystal size, when no ointments help. But in most cases, applying fluoride paste to a ski that is not “slippery” enough to some extent helps to correct the situation. However, there are several limitations when using pastes. Firstly, to apply the paste, the sliding surface of the ski must be pre-paraffinized, otherwise the paste will be instantly erased. And secondly, the paste is quickly wiped off even from a waxed sliding surface. But since the paste is a cold application, it can be updated without any problems right on the slope. As a rule, a tube of paste is equipped with a sponge. Evenly distributing the ointment on the sliding surface of the ski, you need to wait for it to dry (usually a few minutes, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer on the package), and then polish the surface.

Accelerators

Despite the fact that the name of this category of means of preparing a sliding surface is extremely "unscientific", accelerators are a rather interesting thing, although useless for the average user. These very "slippery" things are available in the form of solid briquettes (tablets) and in the form of powders. Accelerators usually contain fluorine compounds and graphite, which has an antistatic effect. Why are they useless for the average skier? The fact is that you can feel the presence of the accelerator only on a well-prepared track, while filigree owning the technique, minimizing extraneous slipping and braking. In addition, accelerators wipe off very quickly - they are often applied right before the start, on pre-prepared skis. The sliding surface (necessarily treated with high-fluorine paraffin) is evenly rubbed with an accelerator briquette, then vigorously polished with a special bar resembling a cork. The powder accelerator is evenly sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski, then cauterized with an iron, and then polished.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

Cleaning can be done in two ways - using a special liquid wash or using ground (low fluoride) paraffin. With a wash, everything is simple - you need to soak a non-woven rag with liquid, and then wipe the sliding surface thoroughly with it. Hot cleaning is a little trickier. Paraffin is applied to the ski, and when it cools, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper. You will see that the wax being scraped off is saturated with dirt. After scraping, carefully work the sliding surface with a nylon or bronze brush. Repeat if necessary. And then, to heighten the effect, you can wipe the ski with a wash. Do not use solvents to remove dirt from the sliding surface, as they dry it out.

4. The process of preparing skis (classic and skate)

The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not glide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.

Let's start with the fact that according to the "rules" of skiing, it is necessary to prepare for each exit to the ski track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, snow) have changed - this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and making adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating the skis with good paraffin, you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually the paraffin stays on the sliding surface of the skis for so long.

Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks like it is “dried up”, covered with some kind of white “coating”. In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, torn apart by snow crystals. Such a “plaque” is an excellent reason to paraffin the skis, but try not to allow it to appear, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface initially has a white color and then begins to turn gray (at present, skis with a white sliding surface practically do not released, as it was already noticed earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help it stay in place longer. But the dirt gets into these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old contaminated paraffin. In addition, the so-called structure - microscopic grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, moreover, the step and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.

And now in more detail.

4.1 Preparation classic skis

Clean up the holding area.

To clean classic skis from old ointment, both the “hot” method and the “cold” method can be used. In the first case:

1. We close the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skis covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.

2. Warm up with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.

3. Using the plastic cycle, remove this impregnated paper. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

4. Remove the remaining dirt with a wash.

In the second case, the old holding ointment is removed with a plastic scraper and a wash.

Particular difficulties arise when removing the "old" (after long-term storage of skis) ointment, in this case it may be necessary to use all methods of removing the ointment.

Paraffin can also be used to cleanse the old holding ointment. It is necessary to paraffin that part of the ski on which the old ointment is located and until the paraffin has completely hardened, remove it with a scraper along with the old ointment. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times.

Preparing a block for classic skis

First you need to decide on the holding area (more on this in the inventory selection section).

For better grip and retention on the ski surface of the holding ointment, today it is customary to “raise the pile” in the holding area. To do this, it is necessary to process the holding area with fine-grained sandpaper for example - P100.

To improve glide, skis for “classic” skiing must be treated in the same way as skis for “skating” skiing, with only one but, in the holding area, they do not paraffin, so as not to worsen the adhesion of the ointment to the ski surface. Well, if you have no time, then you can do without the preparation for sliding and go straight to the preparation for holding.

The ointment is more even when applied cold and when applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.

Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat generated by friction, however, if there is too much heat, the ointment will begin to stretch, resulting in lumps and gaps.

Please note that when using liquid ointments the block should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion with snow for liquid ointments is much higher compared to solid ones. On average, when using liquid ointment, the last becomes shorter by 15 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only make the last shorter, but often even switch to more hard skis. In addition, the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments is greatly influenced by the length of the distance - the longer it is, the more athlete gets tired, the more confident holding he needs, which means a longer block. In this case, the block is shortened compared to solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Block for solid holding ointment

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

4.2. Preparation skating

Before you start preparing skating skis, try to remember and follow simple rules during the preparation process.

Spend some money on a good lubrication iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating. Most recreational skiers use a household iron, setting the temperature somewhere in the region... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". This is unacceptable ... Household irons have a thin "sole" that quickly heats up and also cools down quickly, and when preparing skis, it is necessary that the temperature of the iron be set as long as possible. When setting the temperature on a household iron, you can only guess it, and when using a special iron, its thermostat has an indicator of the desired temperature, most professional irons today come with electronic thermostats that help control the temperature more accurately.

HERE IS HOW YOU SHOULD USE THE IRON

After the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the paraffin begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the toe of the ski. Repeat the process from 3-4 times. This process guarantees right time, spent on warming up the ski and a small chance of overheating the base.

Paraffin application - crucial point at proper preparation skis.

Simple facts:

. Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to the appearance of a "forced" base.

. Old dry bases do not absorb paraffin, especially fluoride.

. A poorly processed base loses its applied structure faster.

. The speed of your racing wax is highly dependent on the condition of the skis prior to waxing.

. Ultimately, overheating can reduce the efficiency and performance of all paraffins, especially those containing 100% fluorine.

Ski primer

Apply primer wax. In this case, it is desirable to use paraffin in excess, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.

Cool down your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a gleaming layer on the surface.

If weather require the skis to have structure and the skis do not have a factory topcoat, you must manually make the appropriate structure. The structure is always applied before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in last hour before the start, the temperature and humidity change dramatically. In this case, the structure has to be applied after the base wax.

When priming a sliding surface under basic paraffin, remember:

the melting point of the wax used in the primer must be higher than the melting point of the base wax, i.e. the priming wax should be more refractory (in this case, the base wax does not mix with the priming wax). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory hard wax is used as the main wax, and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main wax.

With very old, hard, “aggressive” snow, if the weather is the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and just to remove electrostatic voltage from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use paraffin - “antistatic” (for example, “START” - antistatic or “REX” - antistatic, etc.)

when priming skis for the appropriate weather, it is necessary to use a simple paraffin for ordinary paraffin, and fluoride for fluorine-containing paraffin.

Application of base wax (corresponding to the weather)

Under the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin. After choosing a suitable paraffin, apply it to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of melted hot paraffin. After the paraffin has cooled, its excess is removed with a plastic scraper. Next, a nylon brush (hard) removes paraffin residues. Then you need to polish to a shine with a softer brush.

When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed before it hardens, because if the refractory paraffin is allowed to cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski in pieces during scraping, leaving large expanses of wax-free skis. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper and then with a stiff nylon brush.

Application of the last layer - accelerator

The powder is sprinkled with a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the correct melting of the powder is evidenced by the peculiar “dancing” sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after the passage of the iron). At the same time, it is desirable to melt the powder in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.

After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished.

TIP: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues (accelerator), do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with slight pressure on the brush.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed with a hand, natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are processed with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5-10 km) distances.

Paraffins are ski lubricants that increase glide, reduce snow grip, and also prevent snow from sticking to the surface and repel water. Ski wax is an ester of alcohol and fatty acids. In fact, paraffin is the same wax.

There are several types of friction that contribute to the worst slip. We list how wax can cope with them:

1. Wet friction. Removed by waxing and brushing.
2. Mud friction. Removed with wax with molybdenum additives.
3. Static friction. Eliminated by wax with molybdenum additives.
4. Kinetic friction. Removed by waxing and brushing.

The base of the ski is like a sponge that absorbs wax. The slide is on the base, not on the wax. If you do not clean the wax from the surface, then it will flow from the base and prevent slipping. Sharp snow crystals will dig into the wax and slow down your ride.

The benefits of ski wax are:

• increases ski speed;
• prevents oxidation of the ski base, oxidation leads to a deterioration in the properties and a reduction in the service life of the product;
• smooth gliding leads to improved balance;
• protects the ski base from damage.

Ski paraffins

One of the important things to consider when choosing a wax is what temperature range you will be riding in. Snow is usually a few degrees colder than air temperature during the day, and a few degrees warmer at night. But it is always better to make a choice with an error for a cold temperature than for a warm one. There are universal waxes that are suitable for any temperature. But still, lubricants with a temperature range will have better glide properties of the ski. Next, we give a classification of ski lubricants. Depending on the manufacturing technology, they are divided into hydrocarbon and fluorocarbon.

All waxes have a hydrocarbon base, which includes various additives.

The simplest is hydrocarbon wax. It is without additives, mostly amateurs use it. Universal hydrocarbon waxes are used for those who ride a lot on different types snow. This type has good water repellency and increases the life of the ski. The composition of the hydrocarbon wax usually includes paraffin, microcrystalline and synthetic waxes, which are combined in different proportions. Paraffin is a soft, candle-like wax with a low coefficient of friction. Microcrystalline waxes are a branched type of hydrocarbon, harder than paraffin. Synthetic waxes also make the wax harder. Molybdenum additives counteract the electrostatic effect that slows you down on cold, dry snow.

Waxes designed for different temperatures contain additives that work most effectively under certain weather conditions.

There are several types of ski waxes used for different temperatures:

1. Lubricant for cold skiing, where the temperature of the snow is below -12. Hardness additives are used here for better wear resistance. This type is resistant to dry friction and scratches from ice crystals. IN this case water repellency is not that important.
2. Lubrication, where t snow is from -12 to -2 °C. Quite hard, but at the same time, water-repellent properties are already present, since at this temperature the presence of water is possible.
3. Grease for warm skiing, snow t above -2°C. Softening additives are used here, it has excellent water-repellent properties.

There are also fluorocarbons. A fluorocarbon is a hydrocarbon in which hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Since fluorine is a hydrophobic substance, its combination with water molecules is minimal. These waxes give increased slip in wet snow conditions.

Paraffins are produced in the form of blocks, powders, pastes, pencils.

The most common option is wax in the form of blocks or briquettes. Stays the longest on the product. After heating, it should be melted on ski lodge. Melting is important to carry out at a given temperature so as not to inhale harmful chemical fumes.

The paste spreads easily and is economical. For application, a small cloth applicator is used, which is then polished. The longer you polish the surface, the longer the wax will last. It is applied in the universal range of temperatures.

The powder is used after applying several coats of block wax to further increase the glide properties. They are expensive due to a large number fluorocarbons in the composition. Mainly used by professional skiers.

Using paraffins on plastic skis

Although plastic skis have good sliding, for example, unlike wooden ones, but still they need lubrication. During operation, the plastic begins to be subjected to mechanical stress from ice, microcracks form. In this case, the sliding properties deteriorate. Hydrocarbon lubricants fill all the bumps and cracks and extend the life of the product.

Why Choose Liquid Paraffins

Liquid paraffins come in the form of a liquid ointment or spray.

Universal liquid ointments - klisters, it is good to use at a temperature of -5 ° C. They have only the disadvantage that it is necessary to flush with kerosene or gasoline.

There are highly effective innovative liquid paraffins on the market, which are very convenient due to the quick application and the absence of heat treatment. You just need to spray it on the sliding surface and leave it to dry for about 30 minutes. Easy, simple and convenient.

If you use ordinary liquid paraffin, then after completing the above points, you need to clean the surface with a nylon brush.

Other advantages include the absence of an iron in operation, and for skis skating- a hair dryer (since it is not required to heat the klister, as for classical models), and the absence of harmful paraffin fumes. The preparation time is reduced significantly, and the wear resistance of the product will be higher.

Application of liquid paraffins

Lubricants in liquid form are available in tubes and jars. Sprays are used mainly by professionals as an accelerator. They have a high cost. Pastes, emulsions and gels are also popular among athletes. These are the so-called quick application ointments. It is possible to spread them while being directly on the ski slope.

with heat treatment

After the skis are cleaned of dirt and dried, they proceed to initialing.

For this:

• heat the iron to 150 degrees;
• shake the vial;
• spray paraffin on the sliding surface, different types of skis require different application of the substance;
• with a hot iron, go from toe to heel;
• leave the product to cool for 10 minutes;
• clean the layer with a brush, removing excess wax.

This procedure, useful for skis, evens out the sliding surface. For best result repeat the procedure up to 10 times. This will allow you to well compact all the bumps with wax.

Without heat treatment

In the absence of special equipment, as well as time, they use liquid lubricant without heat treatment. This is a less correct method and the effect will not be as high quality as when applied with heat treatment. Although new developments make it possible to achieve no worse effect than with classic application. So, to process skis with paraffin, you need:

• clean the dirt and dry the ski;
• go over the sliding layer with a brush;
• thinly apply a layer of lubricant, if it is a liquid, then use a sponge for uniform application;
• let stand for 3-5 minutes;
• polish with a pad along the entire length;
• leave rubbed skis for 10 minutes.

The cost of liquid paraffins

Lubricant in the form of an ointment will cost around 300 rubles per 25 grams. Sprays are expensive because they have a high fluorocarbon content. And their price can reach up to 2000-3000 rubles, and sometimes even higher.

Classic skis, unlike skate skis, are treated with an additional holding ointment.

How to wax skis for skating?

For this processing you need:

1. Clean the plastic with a fine steel or brass brush and finish with a soft nylon. This is done to open the pores of the surface.
2. Melt the paraffin with an iron that is preheated to 135 degrees. Apply to the surface of the ski. Gently, without applying too much effort, move the iron from toe to heel for no more than 8-10 seconds, without holding it in place. Repeat manipulations 3-4 times.
3. Let the plastic cool to room temperature for 10-15 minutes.
4. Remove the paraffin with a scraper. In sequence: from the groove, then from the edges and from the entire sliding surface.
5. With quick and short strokes, from toe to heel, scrape off the remaining grease with a wire brush. This step is needed to remove the paraffin that has accumulated in scratches and deep structures of the plastic.
6. Polish with a nylon polishing brush.

Perform this necessary processing yourself or contact a specialized ski preparation service center for this service.

Ski preparation tools

You will need:

1. Profile for ski preparation. It has two stops with a loop for fastening. If there is no such equipment, then secure the ski using a table and vise, any workbench will also work.
2. The iron is best used with a special soleplate. Otherwise, you can use an old household iron, but with caution.
3. Various brushes. Metal - clean old paraffin and dirt. Nylon - remove hard, soft paraffin, and also carry out finishing polishing. Natural - remove soft paraffin, also use them to apply accelerators. Polishing - apply powders to a dry surface. As a rule, three main brushes are used: thin metal, medium hard nylon, soft nylon.
4. Ski scrapers are distinguished by thickness. They are from 3 to 5 mm thick, metal or plastic, the gutter scraper is shaped like a body ballpoint pen. Use it in the absence of a professional tool.
5. Ski stones - with the help of them, rust is removed from the edges.
6. Stoppers - for rubbing paraffin or ointment by hand.

What kind of paraffin to apply the powder?

Powder wax is applied after several layers of briquette wax, used to increase the speed properties. Due to the large amount of fluorocarbons, they are quite expensive.

Fluorocarbon powder does not wet the ski sheet well. An intermediate layer of synthetic fluoride wax is needed. It is recommended to apply SFR powders to HF paraffin. HF-FC, LF7-FC, LF8-FC and LF10-FC bundles are available. Amateurs most often put HR under the powder layer.

Which company's paraffins are better?

The SWIX and START firms are the most widely used among amateurs.

The following lubricants are suitable for the climate of the Moscow Region: HF80 START, LF6 SWIX, HF7 SWIX, HF8 SWIX. Of the powders, the brand F9-20 (± 4 °) has proven itself well. For a continuous coating of the sliding surface with fluorocarbon, suspensions of the F9-01 activator and powders, tablets are combined. For example, first rub the surface with a tablet, then make a layer of powder.

For old snow, the SFR99(±9°) START tablet is suitable. As a base coat, CH7 from SWIX, 423 REX BLUE has proven itself well (at temperatures above -10 °). For abrasive snow, SG8 or LF8 grades are suitable.

The maximum water repellency is PHF200 (+1°+10°). PHF600 (-1°-6°) is good for fresh snow, PHF800 (-6°-12°) is good for hard snow.

The choice of ski coverage must be approached responsibly, because in each region the climate is different. If you prefer skiing, you need to take care of your sports equipment. So its service life will be longer, and performance will delight you.

Everyone involved skiing, will say with confidence that the success and comfort of the upcoming skiing will depend on the quality preparation of equipment for riding. Having rented sports equipment, you can not worry about it. fully prepared. However, when purchasing new skis, you will have to ensure high-quality movement on the snow yourself. Having learned, and the classics, you can provide yourself with comfort while driving, and prolong the operation of the attribute.

In order to prepare your inventory for the race, you should follow some tips. most popular and effective method for amateurs and professional skiers is to apply a wax-like hydrocarbon lubricant to the equipment. For the skating method of movement, paraffin should be applied to the entire outer surface of the board, ensuring the safety of rolling and cohesion with snow.

1. Plastic . It is smeared on a sports instrument cold.
2. Dense waxy material. It is applied to the sole of the tool by melting with a special iron.

Ski preparation tools

For skating at home, it should begin with the preparation of the necessary tools:

• ski ironing with a special sole and the necessary temperature parameters;
• lubrication rack-profile for fixing sports equipment in a horizontal position;
• a brushing set of brushes;
• scraper or other steel tool for leveling and smoothing.

Ointments for skis

To lubricate the attribute, there are multi-creams and ointments, both imported and domestically produced. According to the composition of their basic formula, they are divided: homogeneous in chemical formula, obtained as a result of synthesis and complex. You can smear them for sliding or cohesion on the surface of the tool:

• solid products used at temperatures from three degrees Celsius to forty-five degrees below zero;
• semi-dense substances used at -2 - +2 degrees.

After applying the funds, when preparing skis for skating, the attribute is taken out to cool outside with sub-zero temperatures.

Why oil your skis

A device that allows a person to move freely in deep snow appeared long before the advent of our era. At the same time, for skiing even on a well-laid track, the ancestors applied lubricant to their tool. It was: fat, lard, beeswax and even resin. These actions did not bring the desired effect.

Everything changed dramatically with the creation of special creams, sprays and wax-like carbon lubricants. The preparation of a sports attribute for riding with the help of these substances ensures plastic movement.

Which skis do not need to be lubricated

The budget sports tool, which is made of special dense foam, is not lubricated. After all, it was created using a special technology that provides excellent glide. Lubricants are not completely absorbed into the surface of such equipment, so choosing any product is pointless.

How to lubricate skis at home

Before applying grease, you should find out the style of intended riding. It must be remembered that the smooth movement agent should not come into contact with the adhesive when applied on the surface.

How to oil plastic skis

A plastic attribute for snow riding enthusiasts is usually lubricated only with traction agents in the place where the shoes are fastened. This type of sports tool itself has sliding functions, so it is only smeared with ointments for good cohesion.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis

If the surface of the attribute is made of semi-plastic, then for temporary protection it must also be lubricated to avoid small cracks and punctures.

How to properly oil wooden skis

When processing wooden equipment, it is necessary to clean and degrease the surface with a brush or a hard sponge. All procedures must be carried out strictly at a temperature of +17 - +25 degrees.

1. Coupling ointment is applied in layers, followed by rubbing each. After that, the tool is left to dry at a temperature of +8 - +10 degrees. Drying of the last layer should occur at a temperature of 0 - -10 degrees.
2. Next, to the top and lower part inventory, paraffin is applied, and the holding agent is centered. The substance is distributed on the board with a hot iron, where it is applied in advance. The device is carefully passed over the entire surface.
3. Applying a scraper, excess of hardened wax is neutralized.
4. Using a brushing set of special brushes, the material is polished.
5. It is taken out in the cold for 3-5 hours, then for storage in the room.

How to oil combination skis

Equipment "combo" is designed for classic skiing with the possibility of transition to the move. Because of this, the attribute must be constantly relubricated depending on the upcoming riding style. For classic underboard skating, cohesion wax should be applied.

How to lubricate cross-country skis

For the treatment of running equipment, you can use special creams or aerosols, selected in accordance with the temperature outside the window.

Processing an instrument with hydrocarbon wax is difficult:

1. Having fixed the attribute on the profile, apply wax on the board with a heating device, smoothing the layer.
2. After cleaning the excess with a scraper, leave a layer of 1 millimeter.
3. Apply the next layer of hydrocarbon wax.
4. Determine in a cold place.

How to lubricate classic skis

Classic lovers should use a smooth ride along with a clutch, making sure they don't mix together.

The surface is cleaned, followed by the application of a slip agent. After that, the central part of the equipment is treated with a clutch cream. The actions are repeated again. The final procedure consists in polishing the boards.

How to oil skis for skating

When processing equipment for the technique of skating, only smooth movement is required. After a uniform application of the wax-like substance, the excess is removed with a scraper, the boards are polished.

How to grease skis

Having cleaned the surface of the sports instrument and, having sharpened the edges, repair all the cracks on the base with a special candle or a thermal gun. Apply hydrocarbon wax with an iron, followed by scraping and polishing.

Important

Tips for newbies! Applying lubricants for the first time is quite difficult, so you should seek help from a specialist.

Do not forget that the process of cleaning dirt and grease from the surface of the instrument is the most important. The success of the entire procedure will depend on the quality of its implementation.