How to properly cycle cross-country skis. Ski preparation. How the ski surface warms up when using a rotary cork and brushes

By appearance The ski scraper is very similar to the scraper used to scrape flat wood and concrete surfaces. It is made of metal, used to remove notches from wood, plastic. The difference lies in the double-sided cutting element and a wider range of materials from which it is made:

  • plexiglass;
  • polymers;
  • rubber plastics;
  • metal;
  • wood.

Scrapers of the required degree of rigidity are selected according to the task that must be performed with their help. Professional cycles for skis are designed for a certain width and height of the workpiece.

Purpose

Cycles of various configurations are used to remove paraffin, which improves ski glide at a certain air temperature. With frequent changes in atmospheric air, even amateurs often have to cycle skis, and not only professional athletes and adherents of the mountain skiing.

When it is necessary to quickly finish the surface of the skis for the whole team, electrically driven cycles are used.

The width of their scraper, its working surface, must be sufficient for grinding a straight surface. To remove or evenly distribute wax during application, you will need a special scraper that allows you to process both a flat undercarriage and grooves. The consistency of the ointment can resemble both candle wax and Goya paste, which affects the choice of material from which the cycle is made.

At different air temperatures, skiers use the appropriate ointments. Professionals use lubricants for various purposes. When applied:

  • paraffins - improves slip;
  • fluorocarbon powders - speeds up;
  • fluorine-containing - restrain.

In each set of lubricants, products are selected for use in different weather conditions.

The most popular brands of ski waxes:

  • swix;
  • Rode;
  • toko;
  • star.

The same firms make skis and accessories for them. In fact, the design of the cycle itself does not depend on what temperature the ointment is designed for. In any case, the paraffin should be heated before removal. When choosing the material of the working surface of the scraper, it is necessary to take into account the temporary increase in the temperature of the removed material, its resistance to high temperature and the components of the ointment.

For paraffin ointments used at temperatures of 0 ° ... -10 °, a plastic scraper is suitable. For specialized ointments that make the mountain descent dizzy, you will need a metal tool that is resistant to chemical additives.

Manufacturers of ski preparation tools

Swix, in addition to the professional cycle, offers a number of products: a brush with nylon bristles, a bar, napkins. The Swix scraper itself comes in a set with two interchangeable squares with an abrasive layer of different hardness and fastening. Clamps are used to fix skis on the surface of a workbench, table, they are also produced by a sports equipment company. For sharpening edges on the side of the sliding surface at an angle of 1°, the sports equipment manufacturer offers an aluminum guide.

Firms ToKo and master-Ski offer Russian buyers reliable, stable tables for pre-launch preparation, on which skis can be cycled in high quality in field conditions.

From SkiGo, the following products are presented on the market:

  • profiles - sets of three parts: stands and two fixing elements;
  • scrapers for cleaning the groove;
  • folding portable table with fastenings necessary for horizontal processing.

Products from Rex are brushes that can replace the abrasive nozzles of professional cyclers, wipes for removing paraffin residues.

How to use correctly

Why scraping is needed and how to conduct it correctly - this question is often asked by beginners. Cycling of skis is carried out as mechanical damage is received and, if necessary, a change in the lubricant based on them.

Before scraping, you need to check the geometric correspondence of the edges of the lower part of the skis. To do this, they are turned upside down with the sliding side and measurements are taken with an object that has a flat side. To do this, you can use a ruler, a triangle, since you need to compare the uniformity of sports equipment in width.

In a large area cross-country skiing have a bend, which prevents the level from being compared along their length. With the help of a scraper made of thick metal with a double-sided cutting part, you can bring the sliding base to almost perfect condition. Of course, if the deformation is not associated with natural changes obtained during the drying of the wood.

Overheating of the plastic base when applying refractory paraffin powders can also cause severe irreversible damage.

How to make a cycle yourself

For specialized ski care, there are workshops at each equipment rental point, especially when sports club. It remains to figure out how to scrape skis at home in the absence of specialized tools.

Properly prepare your skis for winter season you can make homemade cycles. For its manufacture you will need:

  • knives for an electric planer - 2 pcs.;
  • furniture channel - the length corresponds to the width of the knife;
  • bolt M-4 - 2 pcs.;
  • narrow aluminium.

Tools for work:

  • drill with a drill for metal;
  • file;
  • construction knife;
  • file.

Work progress:

  1. On one of the knives, round holes are drilled for bolts above the finished oval ones.
  2. A corner is formed from a thin aluminum plate, 1.1 mm thick. The width of its shelves is equal to the thickness of one knife.
  3. When combining knives, the cutting parts must be outside.
  4. Between the knives one shelf of the corner is laid, the second will be fixed on the top of the additionally drilled knife.
  5. The top of the structure is placed in the channel;
  6. Knives are fastened with bolts.

If the scraper assembly freely enters the channel, polymer or rubber glue should be used to fix it.

Cross-country skis are usually finished at the factory on a machine with an abrasive belt or abrasive stone. Finishing is usually carried out once before new skis are put into service and periodically during the season on a grinder with an abrasive stone. Processing is carried out by experienced specialists in special workshops. The sander can be set up in different ways to achieve a ski surface texture that matches specific trends in snow conditions.
    sliding surface structure.
    Experience shows that a surface does not glide well if it:
  • very smooth, shiny, as if polished
  • melted by high temperature and high pressure processing
  • oxidized, dry as a result of storage without a layer of ointment
Glide can be improved by drawing patterns on the surface of the ski. These patterns or line textures (profiles) are called "structure". Applying a structure to a sliding surface reduces the area of ​​contact between the surface and snow, and also breaks the surface tension of water films on the surface. Typically applied structures are divided into three main groups:
  1. Fine structure for dry friction conditions from -15°C and below;
  2. Medium structure for intermediate friction from -15°C to 0°C;
  3. Coarse structure for wet friction at 0°C and warmer. These groups of structures are also related to the types and sizes of snow crystals, snow deformability and free water content of snow.
Structure applied by hand.
Excellent ski surface textures can be applied with hand tools. The most common tool for applying structure to cross-country skis is knurling. This tool can form structures from thin to very large (0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm. 1.0 mm. 2.0 mm and 3.0 mm). The tool is held from the toe to the tail of the ski (or vice versa, depending on the design of the knurling) with a dense, constant pressure. The ski must be supported along its entire length, if possible using a profile machine. Combinations of structure types can be obtained by rolling one structure onto another. After rolling the structure onto the surface with a sharp steel scraper or razor blade, lightly level the tops of the beds rolled onto the surface. Also go several times along the ski with fibertex to round off the sharp edges of the grooves.
Structure applied with a grinder.
The grinder can create a variety of sliding surface patterns. Grinding is carried out, as is known, by passing the surface of the ski over a rapidly rotating abrasive stone. The shape of the working surface of the stone is supported by the removal of irregularities by a diamond filling head moving across the working surface. This dressing not only keeps the ski surface flat, but also creates a pattern on the stone, which in turn creates structure on the surface of the ski. The speed of the filling head, the speed of rotation of the abrasive stone, the force with which the ski is pressed against the grinding stone, and the speed with which the ski is passed over the stone are the factors that create the desired pattern on the surface of the ski. The higher cross speed of the diamond head when threading will create larger structures. For a finer structure, this speed must be reduced.
After machine grinding, the fibers that need to be removed remain little or not at all. To be sure, look at the surface through a magnifying glass. If, after mechanical grinding, the surface is passed with a razor scraper and then fibertex, this will help to remove the uppermost layer of the sliding surface, which may have melted during grinding.

Removing the pile
For optimal sliding, it is necessary to completely free the polyethylene sliding surface from microfibers or fibers of abraded plastic. When updating the sliding surface in any manual way or on a machine with an abrasive belt, additional removal of the pile is necessary to complete the processing. Fibertex is specially designed for lint removal. Best Results gives fibertex from thin nylon fibers and abrasive particles of silicon carbide. To remove the pile, the fibertex sponge can be moved in both directions. Also, in order to raise more fibers for subsequent removal with fibertex, pass the surface with a bronze brush several times. You can even brush and fibertex several times from the tail to the tip of the ski in order to lift more microfibers. Finish off with a few passes of Fibertex, which contains a softer abrasive.
Another very effective tool for removing polyethylene microfibers is a razor scraper. Light scraping movements combined with fibertex will remove the pile without disturbing the pattern of the structure.

Surface burn (oxidized sliding surface)
A common nuisance when skiing on hard snow is the so-called "surface burn". It is best seen on black surfaces. The "burned" surface looks "dry", but what you actually see is ragged polyethylene fibers worn by hard cold snow. In the first half of winter, when the air and ground are cold and there is little snow, the chances of surface damage from abrasion are highest.
"Fired" and oxidized surfaces are treated in the same way. It is reasonable to remove the worn layer with a razor scraper or a steel scraper. Don't forget to re-roll the grooves. However, if the burn or oxidation is "mild" (not severe), fibertex alone may be sufficient. Saturate the surface in a hot way with a soft ointment. To reduce surface wear under these conditions, it is preferable to use ointments with synthetic paraffins as a top coat. They can be used alone or mixed with an ointment one step warmer.

Take care of your skis before you go skiing!

Progress does not stand still, and today every self-respecting skier should know such words as "paraffin", "accelerator" and "structure".
The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not glide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.
Let's start with the fact that according to the "rules" of skiing, it is necessary to prepare for each exit to the ski track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, snow) have changed - this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and making adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating the skis with good paraffin, you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually the paraffin stays on the sliding surface of the skis for so long.
Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks as if "dried", covered with some kind of white "coat". In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, torn apart by snow crystals. Such a "plaque" is an excellent reason to paraffin the skis, but try not to allow it to appear, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface initially has a white color and then begins to turn gray (at present, skis with a white sliding surface practically do not released, as it was already noticed earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help it stay in place longer. But the dirt gets into these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old contaminated paraffin. In addition, the so-called structure - microscopic longitudinal grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, moreover, the step and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.
And now in more detail.

2. Preparation of classic skis.

How to clean classic skis from ointment? For example, from a liquid ointment?
  1. We close the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.
  2. Heat with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.
  3. Using the plastic cycle, we remove this impregnated paper. If necessary, this procedure is repeated.
  4. Remaining dirt is removed with a wash.
We are preparing a block for classic skis.
The ointment is more even when applied cold and when applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.
Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat generated by friction, however, if the heat is too much, the ointment will begin to stretch, as a result, lumps and gaps will appear.
Please note that when using liquid ointments the block should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion with snow for liquid ointments is much higher compared to solid ones. On average, when using liquid ointment, the last becomes shorter by 15 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only make the last shorter, but often even switch to more hard skis. In addition, the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments is greatly influenced by the length of the distance - the longer it is, the more athlete gets tired, the more confident holding he needs, which means a longer block. In this case, the block is shortened compared to solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

3. Preparation of skating skis.

Since paraffins are hot applied waxes, you will need an iron to use them, spend some money on a good lubricating iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating.

HOW SHOULD YOU USE THE IRON
After the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the paraffin begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the toe of the ski. Repeat the process 4 to 7 times per ski. This process guarantees right time, spent on warming up the ski and a small chance of overheating the base.
The room temperature must be at least 16°C. Most skiers do not understand the importance of this problem. At ambient temperatures below 16°C, the temperature inside the ski also drops, and there is too little space between the polyethylene molecules for proper wax absorption. A cold room often results in the base being heated to excessive temperatures or poor wax penetration.
Paraffin application - crucial point at proper preparation skis. Simple facts:

  • Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to the appearance of a "forced" base.
  • Old dry bases do not absorb paraffin, especially fluoride.
  • A poorly processed base loses its applied structure faster.
  • The speed of your racing wax is highly dependent on the condition of the skis prior to waxing.
  • Ultimately, overheating can reduce the efficiency and performance of all paraffins, especially those containing 100% fluorine.

    COMMON ERRORS:
    Most skiers use the wrong iron. The household iron, which is commonly used by most skiers, is not designed to melt fluoride or wax waxes. The melting point of Swix Cera F is 100°C (212 F) and the melting point of Swix CH 4 is 95°C (203 F). Paraffins made today rub off less, are harder than traditional paraffins, and therefore require a hotter iron temperature. When skiers use a home iron, they usually set the temperature somewhere in the region... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". It's horrible!
    Do not use a household iron!

    Preparing skis for primer
    Before proceeding with the preparation of new skis, it is necessary to determine how the sliding surface is processed. Skis that have been polished at the factory require a light hand sanding (sharp metal scraper), which removes only the villi, but not the plastic (i.e. without erasing the pattern - the steinslip on the sliding surface). If there was no factory grinding, then it is necessary to check the condition of the sliding surface, removing defects. This is done by removing a thin layer of the surface of the metal cycle, which alternates with paraffin impregnation (soak abundantly with paraffin, then cycle - repeat this procedure several times). Then we clean the skis from paraffin residues with a brass brush and hard fibertex.

    Ski primer
    After scraping the ski of a metal cycle, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the sliding surface with a brass or bronze brush and hard fibertex, and then apply a primer wax (special primer or any more or less soft one with an application range of 3-10 degrees. Purple is usually used). In this case, it is desirable to use paraffin in excess, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.
    Cool down your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a gleaming layer on the surface.
    If the weather conditions require the ski to have structure and the skis do not have a factory topcoat, the appropriate cut must be made by hand. The structure is always applied before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in last hour before the start, the temperature and humidity change dramatically. In this case, the cutting has to be applied after the main paraffin.

    Ski primer for the appropriate weather.
    When priming a sliding surface under basic paraffin, remember:

  • The melting point of the wax used in the primer must be higher than the melting point of the base wax, i.e. the priming wax should be more refractory (in this case, the base wax does not mix with the priming wax). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory hard wax is used as the main wax, and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main wax.
  • With very old, hard, "aggressive" snow, if the weather is the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and just to remove electrostatic voltage from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use "antistatic" paraffin (for example, "START" -antistatic or "REX" -antistatic, etc.) when priming skis for the appropriate weather under ordinary paraffin, you must use a simple one, and under a fluorine-containing one - fluoride.
    The primer is made in the usual way, using an iron with a normal melting point for this paraffin (as a rule, this is a temperature of 120 degrees). Apply paraffin to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of molten hot paraffin.

    OBSERVATION:- it is not always possible (primarily financial) to "pour" paraffin on the ski. Many skiing enthusiasts use the following method: with a short quick movement, a paraffin tile is melted on an iron, and with the same quick movement of this tile (while there is melted paraffin on it), a section of the ski is rubbed. The procedure is repeated several times until the entire ski is covered with paraffin. Then the paraffin is melted on the ski, as usual, with an iron. This method is not bad and has the right to life. In any case, you will be able to achieve significant savings in paraffin.
    Cool the ski for 20-30 minutes. (up to room temperature), then remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and carefully treat the surface with a nylon brush.

    ADVICE:– Graphite-containing sliding surfaces are best primed with graphite or fluoro-graphite paraffins.

    Application of base wax (corresponding to the weather)
    Under the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin. After choosing a suitable paraffin, apply it to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of melted hot paraffin. Allow to cool and cycle with a plastic cycle. Next, wax residues are removed with a nylon brush. Then you need to polish to a shine with either a sanding cloth or a softer brush.
    When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed with a plastic scraper before it hardens, because if you let the refractory paraffin cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski during scraping pieces, leaving large spaces of skis without paraffin. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a rigid plastic cycle and then with a rigid nylon brush. Soft paraffins are processed in a similar way. The only difference is that the soft wax should be allowed to cool completely and then removed with a plastic scraper and a medium hard nylon brush. Otherwise, the procedure for applying and removing paraffin is identical to that used when priming skis.

    Application of the last layer: regular (free-flowing) powder or pressed (accelerator)
    The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the correct melting of the powder is evidenced by peculiar "dancing" sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after the passage of the iron). At the same time, it is desirable to melt the powder or accelerator in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.
    After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished with polishing paper. All! Your skis are ready to race.

    ADVICE: when cleaning the sliding surface from the remnants of the powder, do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with slight pressure on the brush.

    Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed with a hand, natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are processed with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5-10-15 km) distances.

  • The microtopography of the sliding surface has a decisive influence on the sliding ( structure). The choice of structure is determined by weather conditions: air temperature, snow; humidity, snow conditions. And first of all, it affects the water-repellent properties (hydrophobicity) of the sliding surface.

    There can be an infinite number of types of structures, the main ones are:

    • linear,
    • crossing,
    • messy,
    • two-level.

    French experts were the first (at the Vancouver Olympics) to apply different patterns in different areas of the sliding surface, differentiated by the length of the ski.

    steinslift

    The structure can be applied with a stone on a grinder ( steinslip), manually using knurling, cycles, sanding paper (rarely), a metal brush.

    Stone grinding is used very well by national teams, although the effect of a particular structure on sliding is still poorly understood. Modern grinders can make up to 1000 different combinations, which, however, only makes it difficult to find patterns, scattering laboratory resources. The problem is that it is almost impossible to reproduce this or that structure with 100 percent accuracy. The stone wears out, its diameter changes, the composition of the stone is heterogeneous, the cutter is sharpened, the stone rotates at different speeds, the ski is also fed to different speeds etc. and so on.

    The steinslip is also bad because it “sets fire” upper part geometric structure and forms a fringe (“pile”, “hairiness” on the structure, apparently caused by the high temperature of the plastic structure during processing and wear of the stone), especially when applying the structure to industrial batches of skis. This is manifested in the need for repeated basic preparation of skis with paraffins before we reach the maximum gliding capabilities of this structure.

    Alternative to steinslip

    A good alternative to SS is the application of the structure by hand, cycles and manual cutting, knurling.

    What do we know about cycles? The most serious thing is to find and comply with the conventions:

    Geometry, material, sharpening angle and structure of the working edge of the cycle;

    Setting angle, clamping force, cycle speed;

    Evaluation of the required quantity and quality of processing of the sliding surface (the most difficult thing is to remove the SS and make the surface planar);

    Accuracy, coordination and sequence of movements of the scraper's hands.

    It's basically. If we combine these aspects to high level, we get a good precision biomechanical grinding and polishing man-machine. Skis after that will be riding. With the loss of any component or its low quality, the skis will simply be cycled, and a cycle failure or wave surge may occur.

    You can learn to loop, but there is really no certainty that you will hit and immediately feel right.

    Treatment of the sliding surface with paraffins

    What's happening? According to Swiks, some of the paraffin is dissolved in the regions of amorphous polyethylene by diffusion, from which it escapes during the sliding process. During skiing and the gradual descent of paraffin from the surface of the ski by back diffusion, it leaves the amorphous polyethylene, worsening the glide.

    By cutting off the protruding pile (protruding parts of the structure) with a plastic scraper during the removal of paraffins and smoothing the non-protruding pile with brushes, we achieve the elimination of part of the pile. The other part is "glued" with paraffins. The deterioration of slip over time after preparation in the traditional way can be explained by the elementary removal of paraffin residues under the adhered pile and its (pile) inclusion in the work of ski braking.

    The application of slip waxes thus primitively "controls lint", size, number of glues, durability over time, etc., by changing the structure.

    When to apply different methods?

    When can scraping be used and when does it become necessary to additionally treat the skis with paraffins? Cyclovka can be recommended for beginner skiers. Small expenditure of time, very budgetary - there is no need for paraffins and irons. No significant speed loss. From minus 3, 5 and above, it can be advised to apply an accelerator tablet in a cold way. In three cases: temperatures below -15, fresh snow, strong plus, cycled ones always lose to the traditional technology of additional treatment with paraffins, provided it is correct.

    Above the entry level, in addition to scraping or staining, it would be useful to use traditional preparation with paraffins and powders and be ready for the sake of better glide roll back several pairs of prepared skis.

    A very curious circumstance led us to this man. Our today's interlocutor is not a World Cup winner, not a coach Olympic champions, not a team serviceman. This person is a simple amateur skier, a master of sports in cross-country skiing. However, he is constantly referred to in the forums of the L.S. there are a variety of people on the Internet, they talk about him as a person whose skis always go a little better than those of their rivals. Moskvich Artyom Onishchenko in Moscow circles he is known as a person who knows a lot about scraping and ski preparation. Actually, that stream of people who go and go with their “killed” skis to a tiny apartment in the south of Moscow, very convincingly indicates that this person knows his business quite well.

    – Artem, we will have to introduce you to our readers somehow. Help us please.

    - Repeated champion and prize-winner of the city of Moscow, on the "Ski Track of Russia" in the presence of the athletes of the national team was fifteenth or twentieth, on the "Moscow Ski Track" - tenth or fifteenth. At the Marathon of the Holiday of the North, again in the presence of the national team, he repeatedly took places from 25th to 50th. Once was in the "top ten". At the Russian Championship for 70 km in Kandalaksha, he was 23rd, 25th, 28th. This year, at the age of 40, he won the Moscow Youth Championship, and the day before, at a different distance, he was second, losing to the first second. In many ways, by the way, because of the skis - the skis were fantastic on both of these days - I did everything I wanted with the people.

    “Well, shall we start now?” By the way, you didn’t read in the last issue of L.S. excerpts from the discussion "Paraffin or cycle" from our site?

    - It's a pity. Because in the forums people constantly refer to your experience, qualifications, they say that you are very good at skiing and know how to handle them. You know, that huge discussion that took place on our website and was then partially reproduced in the magazine, many, I'm afraid, did not help answer the question - you still need to cycle or paraffin skis. That's why it was very interesting for me to meet you.

    But first, I would like to refer to the Honored Master of Sports of Russia in ski orienteering, world champion Ivan Kuzmin, who, after the publication of this publication, spoke very interestingly about the “author of the scandal” - about his brother, Leonid. He said: Lenya was very meticulous since childhood. For example, our parents bought us two absolutely identical aircraft models. You know, those plastic ones that need to be glued together from different parts? So, for me, says Kuzmin, two hours were enough to glue this plane and put it on a chest of drawers. Lenya glued his plane for a week. After that, he put his plane next to mine, and everything became clear to me. That is, before that, I was sure that I glued my plane without-zu-prech-but! But when I put my model Lenya next to me, I understood that the person had really worked - there was not a drop of glue anywhere, not a skew in the glued panels, not a burr. So it was a perfect product. And Ivan Kuzmin said in connection with this regarding the scraping problem: Lenya does not understand that what works in his hands will not work in other hands. He takes regular ski, an ordinary cycle, an ordinary machine, and he gets sweetie. If it is not Leonid Kuzmin who takes the same things into his hands, a person gets a completely different product.

    So I told you this backstory, this joke, and now my question to you: after all, skis - cycle or paraffin? You, for example, freshly cycled do you ski?

    - To a specific question - a specific answer: I run all responsible starts only on freshly cycled skiing.

    Freshly cycled and waxed, or freshly cycled"naked"?

    - No, I won’t say what is on the “naked”, but what is on freshly cycled- That's for sure. I have the audacity to disagree with Alexander Alekseevich Grushin, who says that you can’t run on freshly cycled skiing. My experience shows that freshly cycled skis go much better than those that have already been ridden for a week. But, I would not accuse Alexander Alekseevich of any fraud or hypocrisy. Apparently, here the situation is similar to the story told to you by Ivan Kuzmin - everything ultimately depends on the hands. It may sound immodest, but I cycle skis like Leonid - I get very worried if I fail to make "candy". People I don’t know come, like I earn some pennies on this, but it’s very unpleasant for me if I can’t make a quality product for a person. I don't think a lot of people can do it really well. I know that in Moscow there are three or four people who ski very well. The rest are amateurs who may be doing it well, but for the most part still very mediocre.

    - And what is your cycle?

    “A regular metal plate, thick enough. With two grooves. This one, for example, is black.

    - Do you sharpen them?

    – Definitely, and always. Unlike Lenin's cycles, all my cycles are undermined. Their rigidity is not so high, they can be undermined with sandpaper.

    – Do you do it yourself?

    Do you have any device for this?

    - No. I have a hand that is stuffed to disgrace. I will tell you that half of the success in scraping depends on the correct sharpening of the scraper. That is, at the beginning of the season, until my hand remembered the movement, I get a torn scraper. That is, visually it turns out absolutely the same, everything is beautiful, everything is amazing, everything glitters. But skis go worse. Half the success is sharpening, seriously I tell you. It must be felt. I feel this plane, I feel the angle, I feel the emery. I do this on a perfectly flat surface - usually on a mirror. You put sandpaper on the mirror so that the scraper slides on a perfectly flat surface ...

    - Wow, I thought you were sharpening a cycle on a bar ...

    - No. To sharpen a cycle on a whetstone, in my opinion, is unrealistic. I mean, maybe someone does, but I've never tried it.

    - And what number of skins do you use for sharpening the cycles?

    – It depends on what the weather is like. The closer to or above zero, the coarser the sanding required.

    - So that the scraper leaves deeper grooves, grooves on the plastic?

    - Yes. As a matter of fact, in last years I have achieved such a result that after sanding on the water, my picture on the ski is very similar to the steinslief. Only after the steinslif on the ski does a pile usually remain, which does not allow the ski to go and which must be disposed of with the help of paraffin. And after cycling, there is no pile left on the ski.

    - Where do you make these grooves?

    – Once a year I give all my cycles to my friends, and they make them at the factory. As you sharpen, these grooves gradually disappear and need to be renewed. I know a few scrapers who prep skis with very high carbon scrapers that can't be sharpened with sandpaper. This approach has its pros and cons. As long as you have a fresh sharpening, two or three pairs are very good. And then hack-work begins - the cycle becomes dull, and it is no longer possible to bring it at home to its previous conditions. They will not run to the factory every time to sharpen either. Therefore, I am very suspicious of people who cycle skis with high-carbon cycles - only the first two or three pairs come out from under high-carbon cycles. The rest will be bullshit.

    - What does hack mean?

    - I don’t know, maybe one of the chemists or physicists will correct me in terms of terminology, but a dull cycle, in my opinion, gives a conchoidal (from the word “shell”, hole) surface, if you look at it with magnification. A dull cycle cuts polyethylene without problems, but it does not cut off graphite particles, but picks out, crumbles, tears out in pieces. That's why the skis don't work.

    - Does your cycle cut them off?

    - Quite right. I feel the cycle - by the sound, by the way it goes, I feel that the cycle is no longer taking the ski, it is starting to pick it out. White, final passes I always make freshly sharpened cycles. Therefore, the process of cycling takes a very long time for me. For example, Misha Prokhorov is a good scraper, but he spends five minutes, or even two or three, on a pair of skis. I need at least half an hour for a couple of skis.

    What is the difference between these two cycles?

    - This one is very soft - it sharpens very easily, and blunts very easily. In fact, this is a rough scraper designed for high-speed passage, for removing microrelief - bumps, waves, etc. The microrelief is always removed at a significant angle and at a high speed of the cycle. When leveling the microrelief, it is impossible to slowly lead the cycle, because then all the irregularities begin to only get worse.

    A stiffer cycle gives an ideal cut, but it is already much more difficult to remove all the bumps, depressions, ruts with it. It is designed for finishing. I go through a harder cycle in the end literally four or five times. But I already have this cycle for open water, when sharpening it, you need to grind it with a very brutal skin, and after it a rather large section remains on the ski. It's made of high carbon steel, and it's already pretty bad on sandpaper.

    - And how do you drive the cycle on sandpaper - put it straight, perpendicular to the movement?

    – Again at an angle, this gives the most stable result. If it's cold, then the angle is larger. And if you put the cycle straight - there will be littered edges, if perpendicular - it’s generally unrealistic, the cycle will jump on the sandpaper.

    - What does the plastic that you cycle look like, what is it - flour, shavings, dust?

    – Unlike Leonid Kuzmin, I shoot quite a lot. My old comrade and active participant in your forum Lyosha Ilvovsky always suffers a lot when he gives me skis for scraping. At the same time, he always laments, his heart bleeds, looking at how I cycle skis, and I myself, looking at his suffering, seem to be a sort of butcher with hairy hands, in an apron spattered with blood, plaiting with a huge cleaver in my hands meat carcasses (smiles). But it’s not like Lenya’s, it’s not powder, it’s still shavings.

    - What do you mean "I shoot a lot"? A lot of cycles in one pass, or a lot in one ski preparation procedure?

    - It depends on whose skis, how old they are, and what I want to get in the end. For example, my skis are usually well-bred, not killed, so I take off a little before each race. But still, it’s not a powder, it’s a little shavings - after one procedure for scraping plastic skis, I still have a total volume of about a teaspoon.

    - Does the plastic curl with such rings?

    – In general, yes. If a person comes from outside, his skis have not been cycled for a hundred years, all scratched, humpbacked, then, of course, there is a lot of plastic going down to bring out the microrelief. A lot of problems arise from the fact that people begin to cycle skis with thin, flexible cycles. Remember, at one time such thin steel cycles were very popular - they were also made by SWIX, or someone else? They are very similar to normal cycles, they have a good "toothed" edge, they give good chips, but they always bend in the hands. How many clogged skis have passed through my hands in these years - beyond words!

    - What does "wrapped" mean?

    - The cycle in people begins to bend in their hands and removes the plastic on the edges, leaving the groove area intact. And skis fell into my hands, which sometimes had no edges at all, and in the groove area the plastic remained practically untouched. And when I started cycling such skis, I removed the plastic only in the central part. I had to remove a lot of plastic to get such skis out.

    - And yet, please tell us how you prepare your skis for the race - step by step? Now it is already clear that before each start you cycle them. But this applies to any weather - and frosty, and transitional, and outright heat?

    - Yes. This applies to any weather. True, it matters how long ago I did this with this pair in last time. In general, you know, I noticed that it's like drug addicts - you start cycling skis, and you can no longer stop, you get addicted. Because cycled skis with increased use go better than before scraping, only two or three weeks. Then, these properties gradually decrease to the base level, maybe even a little lower. Therefore - again scraping, again increasing the sliding qualities, again a couple of weeks, again the hand reaches for the cycle ...

    - Are you sure that you are not mistaken about the fact that skis after scraping go better, that you are not in captivity of subjective sensations?

    - No, I'm not sure, because such things as the attenuation of the sliding properties of a ski over time are a purely subjective aspect of the matter. On the other hand, when for many, many years - fifteen, and even twenty - you notice the same thing, there is a suspicion that this is still objective. Although, maybe not, I don’t know ... But no one has set up such an experiment, and it’s probably impossible to set it up. How to set up such an experiment? Well, let's say he cycled his skis, rolled out of the descent. What, in two weeks you will be experimenting on the same slope with skis with a two-week cycle? But the weather has changed in these two weeks, it is impossible to compare. It's all very subjective, very. I can agree with someone's suggestion that this is a mistake, I won't argue, but my feeling is that I'm still sure of it.

    - And if you have to run a bunch of two or three races in a row, do you also cycle your skis before each race?

    - No, if I have to run a bunch of two or three races, I don’t cycle skis every day. It is quite enough to cycle the skis before the first day, and then you can perform during these three days quite calm. Well, unless by mistake on the first day you pulled up the plastic or burned the surface. But once every two or three weeks before important ski starts, I always cycle.

    - And how do you prepare your skis before the start? The standard procedure for preparing skis before the start from Artem Onishchenko?

    - Looping with cycles, brushing ....

    - Wait. So you cycled the skis, what did you get? Shiny smooth surface?

    - She's matte. The shiny surface can only ride in severe frost. Somewhere on your forum I read about preparing skis with glasses. So, we had such a skier at our university - Boris Rashchupkin from the Faculty of Biology. He supplied me with glass slides at one time. Only not thin, but very thick. They cut something with these glasses during practical exercises. And one side of these glasses was amazingly even, sharp. This edge gave a cut of plastic absolutely smooth, absolutely shiny. But, alas, such skis rode only in very severe frost - they did not ride on water at all. They stood like a stake, just stuck. Therefore, it depends on the weather. If it's warm, then a strong cut. If it's cold, then the surface is as smooth as possible. Although, all the same, there is a small section there, there must be.

    - Okay, you cycled your skis. What's next?

    - Brushing. Depending on the weather conditions- different brushes. If it is water, or weather close to zero or a small minus, then with the most rigid brushes ...

    - Steel, copper?

    – You know, the fact is that some steel brushes, for example, "RED CREEK", are softer than copper "SWIX". I tried their steel brush - it is softer, there is a thinner wire. It gives a softer texture. "SWIX" - tougher. With the RED CREEK steel brush, however, it is very good to choose dirt - it is softer, there are more wires, and it does an excellent job of this task. And for water, I use the most rigid brush known to me - brass.

    - Practically after you cycle the sliding surface, do you also subject it to very hard brushing?

    - Necessarily.

    - That is, you are this case do not brush your pores, but actually scratch?

    – Yes, I apply structure with brushes. But, let's just say, I still apply the initial structure, if water, with the help of this cycle - the sliding surface is already quite scratched after the cycle.

    - Does this cycle give, as it were, large scratches on the plastic?

    – In general, yes. But some burrs remain from it, like a pile. Not the same, of course, as after the steinslif, but it still exists. Therefore, using a stiff brush, I kind of apply the structure and at the same time remove the remaining pile.

    - Well, after the brush?

    - If it is frost, then fibertex polishing is in progress. If there is no frost, then I do nothing. By the way, if we return to the article in the last issue of "Skiing", then my point of view is very close to the point of view of Ivan Kuzmin. As a rule, after scraping the ski, I still wax. There were times when bare skis went very well. There have been! But not always. For example, A. Zavyalov's 60 km race last winter. I am preparing two pairs of skis: one with powder, the other naked. On the haul, in contrast to Lenin's theory *, bare skis ride better. That is, skis with powder have not even had time to pick up mud, and all the same, bare skis ride better. The experiment, of course, is impure, because the skis are different. But I chose the best couple in that situation, that is, naked. Yes, and so - I have one feature - I always swing for a long time. Therefore, in this race, I got out of some twenties or thirties for quite some time. In the course of the race, twenty or thirty fairly decent riders drove around. Finally, the second one arrived. So, I can say that some of those whom I rode had skis no worse than mine. And yet, for the most part, people skied a little slower. It would seem that here it is, the victory of bare plastic. But it's not so simple. Oleg Kochetkov won the race. We rode together for the last fifteen kilometers. I know that Kochetkov does not fill his head with all sorts of "nonsense" and always rides on powders and paraffins. So, his skis went frankly better than mine. That is, on each descent, he left me by 5–7 meters, despite the fact that I was standing behind him in the jet! That is, you understand, bare skis rode that day better than others. But worse than Kochetkov's. So draw your own conclusions.

    Probably, it would be possible to carry out a purposeful experiment. I don’t know if Leonid Kuzmin did this, perhaps his conviction is based on such experiments? But how, in my opinion, should such an experiment be set up? Take one pair of skis with a steinslif, which had been treated with paraffin twenty or thirty times before, process it with weather paraffin, and roll it off. Right there on the machine next to them, cycle them, brush them, and roll them back as soon as possible, look at the rollout. Then right there on freshly cycled skis apply weather paraffin, preferably the one that was on the steinslief, and skate again. Then it would be more or less correct to talk about which option is better. Again, in order to draw more or less correct conclusions based on the results of such comparisons, these experiments must be carried out, probably, dozens, and maybe hundreds. I didn't do any of those experiments. My experiments consisted in the fact that Lyosha Ilvovsky, for example, resorted to me after skiing, I immediately cycled them for him, he walked again, rolled back, and came, squealing with delight - they rode much better with him. But, maybe, if they were also paraffinized after scraping, they would go even better with him? Don't know. Again, even this experiment is not entirely clean, because the same thing would have to be repeated after 40–50 km of skiing. See if the skis are gaining dirt or not? This is a complex, time-consuming experiment, who will undertake it?

    I did simpler experiments - I rode a pair in which one ski was cycled, the other was not. And still I can’t say anything unambiguously, because, for example, one ski rides better in the field, but you drive into the forest, where there is completely different snow, another one rides better.

    What did I end up with? Firstly, Leonid writes absolutely correctly: skis with a factory steinslide must be paraffinized many times. Because after the steinslif on skis there is a huge amount of pile, and only with the help of paraffin is it selected. What rides better - a good steinslif or a good scraper - I will not undertake to say. In my opinion, they say correctly - at high speeds, the steinslif works very well (because of this, it is so popular with skiers), at low speeds it starts to blunt. That is, for myself, I conditionally called it the effect of dry and wet friction. The speed is high, the water film is larger - the steinslif starts to work. The speed is low, that is, you are going uphill - cycle skis frankly go better. But on a descent, especially on water, a steinslif can work better than a scraper. The question is, what cycle? Because last year I realized that with these cycles my skis went very well on the water - no worse than a steinslief. Again, everything depends on what Ivan Kuzmin said - in the hands. Therefore, I can’t say unequivocally: guys, go ahead, all cycle skis! If a person does not know how to cycle, then his skis after scraping will go much worse than after the factory steinslif and paraffin. Maybe it will sound impudent, but even in my practice there were cases (although there were very few of them) when my skis did not start to go better after scraping. This is a rare occurrence, but it does happen.

    - Is it worth it, is it possible to cycle cheap skis with extruded plastic?

    - In my opinion, extruded plastic cycle is useless. That is, such skis can be cycled, and theoretically they should even go better, but this, believe me, is a real madhouse - when scraping such skis, you will have to lower three or even four tenths of a millimeter of plastic, because on top of this plastic there is always a crust, which is then gnawed out in pieces during the scraping process.

    - Wait, but on skis with extruded a lot of people ride plastic - schoolchildren, amateur veterans who, in all seriousness, are trying to scrape these skis, wax… What should they do with these skis?

    – I don't think they need to cycle them. If you cycle, then only a very experienced person, because extruded plastic is extremely hard to cycle. For example, when people with such skis come to me, I always try to dissuade the owner from scraping. Because no one can guarantee that such plastic under the influence of a cycle will not break out in pieces, shreds. And I don't feel like ruining people's skis.

    - I would like to give you an example: for quite a long time - about 15 years - I did not take a cycle in my hands, and last year I tried to cycle my skis on my own. Naturally, at a certain moment the hand jumped off, a serif appeared on the edge. Began to correct, the notch deepened. What to do? Suppose there is no such Artyom Onishchenko at hand, but it’s a pity for skis. Ivan Kuzmin in such cases says: you have a good training pair of skis. But the skis had just been quite combat - can something be done in this situation?

    - This is a very common episode. There are several options: either, indeed, transfer the skis to the category of training ones, or go to the workshop and make a new steinslief, or still look for a decent scraper. The fourth option, for those who are especially persistent, is to find old skis and train on them for a long, long time, put your hand on them. Perhaps you will achieve something, in the end, everything is done by human hands, there is nothing impossible in this.

    - And the option with a bar and a skin?

    – There were cases in my practice when people brought completely killed skis that could no longer be straightened by any scraping. At first glance, in such cases, the last option remains - a bar and a skin. But this option is very bad because when saving skis with the help of a bar and a skin, almost all plastic is removed from the ski. That is, you take them out once, save them, and after that it will no longer be possible to cycle the skis. Such “patients” repeatedly “died” in my hands, therefore the same Lyosha Ilvovsky always stands above my soul and is very worried about every pair of his skis, because one of these deceased patients was just his pair of skis. And before scraping, I honestly warned him: there is no longer plastic, they cannot be cycled, and he told me: - well, please, just a little bit. It ended sadly. These skis came out of my hands still alive, but when he began to apply paraffin on these skis at home and remove it with a scraper, the paraffin began to come off the skis already with the remnants of plastic, the substrate climbed.

    And one more aspect of using sandpaper ... It is impossible to get a perfectly flat surface with sandpaper. No matter how hard you try, when working with a bar, the edges will definitely fall over.

    - Oh really?

    - Necessarily! Because the emery itself has damping properties. In addition, at the edges it hangs over the slippery, you can’t do anything - the edges will definitely collapse a little. In addition, do not forget that after sanding you must definitely cycle the skis, because after sanding the skis will not go at all. Because skinned skis are shaggy by definition. And then, after sanding, the plastic picks up an abrasive - those small pebbles from which the skin is made are interspersed in the sliding surface, and such plastic will never go. So after the skin, you still have to scrape, and quite strong. Therefore, after such a restoration method, you have practically no plastic left on your skis.

    - If you don't know how to cycle skis, don't take it. You will definitely ruin more than one couple before you learn something. If you picked up a cycle for the very specific purpose of improving the sliding properties of your favorite (often only) pair of skis, you will almost certainly achieve the exact opposite result. If you are determined to try to acquire scraping skills, try to dig up somewhere in the closet (or buy someone else's cheaply) old dead skis, preferably with normal, non-extruded plastic. It is almost certain that during these lessons you will ruin more than one such pair of skis. But if you still have such skis, if you have the desire, time, then there is nothing impossible in this.

    By the way, this year, after a discussion on the website and publication in L.S., I began to approach the problem of choosing between naked and waxed skiing, began to experiment more. As a rule, now I also take from one of my friends extra pair and I always leave one pair of skis naked. More than once or twice my bare skis went frankly worse. This is to the question of whose position of the Kuzmin brothers is closer to me - the position of Ivan is closer to me. And yet in each case it is necessary to look separately. The only thing I can say with absolute certainty is that after the steinslif, the skis must be waxed many times. I don't know of any examples of bare skis going well after a steinslif.

    Interviewed by Valery PUTINTSEV

    S. Biryukov
    A. Vertyshev "Skiing, the course of a middle-aged fighter"
    Where to buy cross-country skis, ski poles and ski boots

    The use of modern composite materials instead of wood has greatly simplified and reduced the cost of maintaining equipment in such a sport as rowing. On the contrary, in skiing the transition from wooden to plastic skis led to a noticeable increase in cost, labor intensity and time spent in preparing and caring for skis. If at the 1972 Olympics the average cost of preparing a pair of skis was about $ 1 with a time investment of 15-30 minutes, then at present it takes several hours to prepare a pair of skis, and material costs have increased several hundred times.

    One of the ways of inexpensive, but high-quality processing of skis and obtaining the best condition of the sliding surface of the ski is manual scraping with a high-quality sharp tool. In contrast to the surface treated with a steinslief, the scraped surface has a significantly smaller amount of burrs and villi that increase friction.

    In the photographs of the sliding surface with a large increase, it can be seen that after machine processing (steine ​​polishing), the sliding surface has a large number of burrs and villi. The surface treated with a sharp scraper by hand is smoother and has a more regular structure - an arrangement of microscopic longitudinal grooves and grooves.

    For a long time, it was not possible to purchase a high-quality cycle for ski preparation on sale. Major manufacturers of tools and lubricants do not release high-quality scrapers for free sale. Ski lubrication specialists used for this purpose a piece of equipment made at the factories of the former military-industrial complex or made in artisanal conditions. Unfortunately, all such products have a wide range of characteristics. As a rule, each sample was made from an individual steel grade and had an individual sharpening. Recently, the Swedish company Kuzmin has started mass production of high quality scrapers for manual ski preparation.

    Kuzmin™ cycles are manufactured on industrial equipment from high-quality HSS steel, the working edge of the cycle is sharpened strictly at a certain angle and has a certain structure of the working surface.

    In the photographs shown here, you can see the working faces of the KUZMIN™ cycle at multiple magnifications. Regularly located grooves of various depths are clearly visible, which, when processing the ski, are "imprinted" on the sliding surface. When processing skis of such cycles, microstructures are created on the sliding surface - grooves and grooves, due to regular irregularities that are hardly noticeable to the naked eye on the sharp edge of the cutter.

    Kuzmin cycles are available in three versions:

    • for warm weather - designed to prepare skis at temperatures from + 3 ° and above. Best suited for pretreatment of skis.
    • moderate - designed to prepare skis at temperatures from +2° to -8°
    • cold weather - scraper designed to create the smoothest surface, effective at temperatures from -8°C

    The options differ in the angle of sharpening the tool and the pattern applied to the surface of the ski.

    Application cycles KUZMIN

    • Before scraping, the sliding and side surfaces of the ski must be thoroughly cleaned of ointment and paraffin residues using a solvent wash.
    • The ski must be securely fixed on the ski profile, slightest mobility skis or profile machine can cause fatal damage to the sliding surface.
    • Scraping should be done with both hands with uniform, gentle pressure.
    • Finish processing when the surface is even and smooth. During the first treatment, it is necessary to spend 20-25 minutes on each ski in order to completely get rid of the remnants of the structure. When re-processing, three or four passes are sufficient.
    • Deburr the sides using the same scraper.
    • To improve glide, treat a clean sliding surface with a fine metal brush.
    • Treat your skis after every 50-500 km (depending on snow conditions).
    • If necessary, in warm weather and wet snow, an additional structure can be applied on top of this microstructure using manual knurling.

    Helpful information

    When processing a ski, a large amount of chips are formed. However, it is mostly air. At primary processing the thickness of the removed polyethylene layer is no more than 35 microns, and in subsequent treatments it is only about 1 micron. Thus, the ski can withstand up to several hundred treatments.

    When processing classic skis, it is necessary to remove all lubricant, including holding ointment, and process the sliding surface of the cycles along the entire length, including the holding area.

    Attention! because scraping skis is a job that requires high precision, high-quality scraping is possible only with a securely fixed ski in good light.

    Preparing skis without wax

    A specialist in the field of skiing, Leonid Kuzmin, who currently lives in Sweden, defended his Ph.D. thesis on research in the theory of ski sliding, in particular, the problem of reducing sliding friction between skis and snow. The results of his research can be called sensational, not without reason they caused a heated discussion in the ski world.

    The most important research results largely refute the traditional concept of ski preparation, based more on marketing interests than on scientifically proven facts.

    Based on elementary knowledge at the level school curriculum and simple logic, Leonid argues that the sliding surface of modern cross-country skis, made of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), does not have pores into which rather bulky paraffin molecules could penetrate. If the sliding surface could absorb paraffin molecules, it would absorb relatively small water molecules with even greater success, thus becoming similar to an ordinary sponge.

    In reality, all the grease applied by the traditional "hot" method remains on the sliding surface in the form of a layer several microns thick, no matter how much grease is spent in preparing the skis. What's more, none of today's greases, including fluorocarbon grease, provides a lower coefficient of sliding friction than perfectly surfaced UHMWPE, which is also ten times more abrasion resistant than extra strong carbon steel. Thus, Leonid came to the conclusion that no better way ski preparation than scraping the sliding surface and bringing it to a perfectly even state.

    The graph shown here shows how hardness changes with temperature.

    When the temperature drops from 0 to -20°C, the hardness of ice (or snow crystals) increases several times and is practically equal to the hardness of high molecular weight polyethylene used as a sliding surface. Here you can also see that the hardness of the paraffin layer increases slightly.

    In cold weather, even the hardest sliding lubricants are much softer than the polyethylene of the sliding surface, and, accordingly, softer than snow crystals. This allows us to conclude that in frosty weather, skis prepared in the traditional way will glide worse than carefully cycled skis.

    The following are excerpts from an interview with Leonid Kuzmin published in November 2006 in the Nordic Ultratune Newsletter. It provides answers to typical questions and objections of opponents who adhere to traditional views for the preparation of skis.

    • Are you saying that the water repellency of a structured sliding surface is lower than that of a non-structured surface?
      LK: If you carefully read the theses of my Ph.D. thesis, you will be convinced that they do not contain such terms as “surface with structure” and “surface without structure”. My opponent, Mark Waechter, most likely means by the first skis that have passed through the "steinslip", and by the second - smoothly cycled skis. He argues that the hydrophobic properties of the skid (expressed as the angle between the convex "lens" of the water drop and the horizontal surface) do not correlate with the speed of the ski. This is a fundamental mistake. The relationship between the hydrophobicity of the sliding surface and the sliding speed of the ski has been proven by scientific research.
    • Your opponent also believes that "machine structure" makes it possible to reduce the role of such a factor as "viscous friction of wetted surfaces" (that is, the so-called "water suction"), which is inevitable in the case of a perfectly smooth sanded surface.
      The surface scraped with the KUZMIN™ scraper is not perfectly smooth. Moreover, the surface of skis with a "machine structure" (in the comparative experiment, skis prepared by one of the world's leading experts Lars Svensson on a Tazzari RP13.2 machine) are smoother than the surface of cycled skis. The KUZMIN™ scraper creates a smooth, hard polished surface with regularly spaced microgrooves (see illustration above). If this is not enough (for example, in warm weather on wet snow), additional structure can be applied using knurled-reelers.
    • Are you an opponent of the "machine structure", considering it useless?
      Yes, in my opinion it is. The most important result of our research should be considered the proof of the fact that artificial lubrication is not needed to improve the glide of a ski on snow if a natural "water" lubricant is formed during the sliding process. Good gliding requires a smooth and hard surface with optimum water and dirt repellency. All these properties are fully possessed by UHMWPE polyethylene. Processing skis on a steinslift machine only worsens these properties.


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