What is the difference between skating boots and classic ones. How to choose the right ski boots? Types of ski bindings
How to choose cross country ski boots
When choosing boots for cross-country skiing, you need to decide how often and what style you intend to run. If you plan to go skiing only a few times a season, is it worth spending serious money on equipment? And vice versa, if you plan to ski quite often or do sports at all, then you need to approach the choice of boots more seriously.
In either case, you can pick up decent and high-quality boots and bindings. In general, the price when choosing boots and bindings plays far from the main role. The most important thing is that the chosen sports shoes are comfortable to run. But you should think about bindings only after you have already chosen shoes. This is because they are made for a specific type of mount.
Many companies produce models of shoes specially designed for men and women, as well as children's models. This diversity is dictated by the difference in the anatomical structure. Men's feet are much wider than women's. In addition, women's and children's shoes are made more elegant.
Since the choice of ski boots and ski bindings are interconnected, it is worth learning a little about ski bindings.
What are the bindings for skis
For felt boots, ski bindings are soft, made of leather straps. For other shoes, bindings can be semi-rigid or rigid. These have been fasteners for a very long time. And today they are no longer used for cross-country skiing. Nobody skis in felt boots today.
Today everyone skis in ski boots. But shoes are also different. After all, they are made for certain fastenings. What types are in use today?
Types of ski bindings
There are four types in use today. ski bindings:
- NN 75
Let's take a closer look at each type of attachment.
NN 75 or Nordic Norm 75, where the numbers indicate the width of the mount. This is an underutilized type of mount. It is a metal case in the form of a horseshoe with three rods - protrusions. For him, a boot with a slightly protruding sole is used. It is installed on the fastening rods, the protruding part of the sole, in which there are respectively three holes.
Then the front, protruding part of the sole is clamped with a metal bracket and latched with a special latch. A boot with such a mount does not hold tight enough on the ski and may hang out a little. For skating he's not fit at all. But after all, some twenty years ago, it was on such bindings and boots that everyone rode.
But progress does not stand still. And a Norwegian company Rottefella improved her creation, and without further ado called it NNN, adding one more letter to the old name.
NNN or New Nordic Norm. The mount is made in the form of a plate that is attached to the ski. It has two longitudinal guides that fix the boot from lateral movement. On the sole of the boot there are two longitudinal recesses for guide fastenings. A transverse rod is mounted in the front part of the sole of the boot, with which it snaps onto the mount.
Thus, the boot is fixed in the longitudinal direction. And so that it does not hang on this rod, its front part rests against a special elastic band - an emphasis. By selecting the stiffness of this gum, you can control the stiffness of the entire mount. Rottefella mounts are used by famous companies like Rossignol, Fischer, Alpina, karhu.
NlS or Nordic lntegrated System appeared in 2005 in the same company Rottefella. The mount is placed on the skis without the use of screws. However, skis must be specially prepared for this. They must have the NIS platform installed. The rest of the mounts are almost the same as the previous version.
This type of binding is used by sports equipment giants such as Rossignol, Alpina and Madshus. Accordingly, the price of such mounts is higher.
SNS or Salomon Nordic System - cross-country ski bindings developed, as the name implies, by the French company Salomon. The boot is fixed on the ski using one longitudinal guide. Ahead of the boot is fixed with a rubber stop.
The company produces 2 models of mounts: Pilot And Profile. Mounts of the first type are specialized and are intended only for use in skating. Because of this, they have two guides, and instead of rubber stops, spring ones are used. And the Profil model is universal and traditional for the company. Mounts Salomon used by Adidas, Atomic, Spine, and Salomon itself.
Which bindings for cross-country skis are better
It is impossible to say unequivocally which bindings for skis are better. But let's try to understand this issue.
The outdated NN 75 mount, although used less and less, is much cheaper than other types. And, despite its shortcomings, it still finds fans. In addition, it is often bought for children. Its price is relatively small, and a growing child will have to change shoes in a year or two.
The NIS mount is mainly used by professionals and enthusiastic athletes. This is primarily due to its price. And the benefits are not so obvious. Therefore, the most common mounts are NNN and SNS.
Ski mount NNN and SNS and their difference from each other
Both types of mounts are similar in shape to each other. There are also few fundamental differences. The main difference is that the SNS type uses one longitudinal guide while the NNN type has two longitudinal guides. For a skier, they are approximately equivalent. Both those and others are used by both professional and amateur athletes.
How to choose ski boots by size
In order for the shoes to sit comfortably on the foot, they must be correctly sized. To do this, they need to be measured. You need to measure them, wearing the socks with which they are supposed to be worn.
If the skier already has some experience, then good. If not, then when choosing socks it is better to play it safe a little. Or do you want your feet to freeze? And if not, then you can purchase thermal socks specifically for this case. And grandmother's woolen socks are also suitable. In extreme cases, you can wear several pairs of socks.
After the shoes are dressed, they are laced up. If possible, you need to walk a little back and forth. If shoes are chosen for the classics, then try to stand on your toes, as if doing a push with your foot. If shoes are selected for a skate, then place your foot with an inclination, simulating a skate course. If everything is fine and the leg is comfortable, then you can buy.
How to choose ski boots for your running style
The choice of boots and bindings also depends on whether it is supposed to be skated or classic. Different styles have different requirements for boots and bindings. So, for example, for skating, boots are made taller and stiffer. For the classics, shorter and softer. All major sports equipment companies offer both skate and classic boots.
How to choose ski boots for skating
For skating, boots are made higher. This is done in order to fix the ankle joint. The skating style of running assumes that during the push the leg is placed with an inclination, and the ski is on edge. And in order not to twist the joint and reduce the load on it, it is fixed with a high boot.
Here, a thicker sole is used. The shoe itself sits more tightly on the foot. It is made taking into account the anatomical structure of the leg. For skating, you can use boots with bindings of both types: SNS and NNN. In addition, there are combined shoes. This is something between a classic and a skate. And for fixing the ankle they use a removable cuff.
How to choose ski boots for classic skiing
Ski boots for classic move, whether it is a product from Fischer, Salomon, Alpina or another company, is slightly shorter than for skating. There is no need to fix the ankle joint. But, nevertheless, boots for the classics are made by leading companies, taking into account many requirements for skating boots.
A classic boot is a little lighter than a skate boot. They use a softer sole. Mounts are used by both SNS and NNN. Only if the preference will be given to the SNS type, a small nuance should be taken into account. Boots with Profil bindings do not fit on Pilot bindings. On the contrary, it is quite suitable. But don't forget that the Pilot is designed for skating only.
How much do ski boots and bindings cost
Modern ski boots from well-known companies are made from high-quality synthetic materials and high-quality genuine leather and down. Therefore, they are very light and warm. Accordingly, they are significantly more expensive than products of less well-known companies.
The price range is very large. This is understandable. They start from one thousand for simpler boots, up to several tens of thousands for a product for professionals. Good ones can be purchased for two to four thousand rubles. Good mounts also start from a thousand rubles and end in many thousands.
If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.
There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.
Ski selection
Still plastic...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, returns on plastic skis can be avoided, but we will talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)
What skis to choose for a beginner?
First, about prices. Racing skis standing on top model range well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomik, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training then you will understand what you need and where to go. The exception is if you big weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.
Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, intended for fans. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and track preparation require skiing. different requirements. Therefore, in the world of cross-country skiing, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve best glide under certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.
Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.
There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.
How to choose skis
As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis(ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com): |
The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating the picture will be different, because they should not have maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):
That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.
A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).
You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.
So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.
The course of action may be as follows:
1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.
2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.
3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For the classics correct definition stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote the "Short course of the Skiing discipline" of the RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces are under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mount (which means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the skier is standing on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers his body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski must be in contact with the floor. " In practice, this is easy to check - one person is on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you are standing on both skis, the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block. If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. The check with a sheet of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the last.
If conditions do not allow this method to be applied, then the stiffness can be approximately determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).
Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.
For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.
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Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (I mean soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)
Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".
Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:
- The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
- At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
(This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)
4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.
There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.
6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:
The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and power load carry mainly laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.
Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.
If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.
Choice of ski boots
If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways to protect expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.Choice of ski poles
Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.
If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings, which were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.
Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.
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Ski waxing
First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear back(!!!) skis.)Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.
If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with their feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.
To get an idea of the process vocational training skis, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.
Ski waxes
Lubricants are available different types. The most commonly used paraffins professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.
From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.
For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.
Ski waxes
Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.
For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.
Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).
Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).
In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions you may run into some problems:
- Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
- The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.
Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes
Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.
- Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
- Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
- Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
- Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
- Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
- Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
- Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
- A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
- Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
- Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.
Additional ski accessories
Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.
Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.
How to store skis
Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.Simplified ski lubrication technologies
You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins when primary processing skis or when lubricated for heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.
Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.
One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.
What ski wax to buy for ski preparation
Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.Minimum.
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Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:
3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.
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Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).
Sufficient.
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Advanced.
This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.
Have you chosen your skis yet? Then you need cross-country ski boots. Cross-country ski boots have a huge number of models and it is very easy to get confused among such a variety. First, boots are selected, and then bindings, or it happens at the same time.
Cross-country ski boots are divided according to the level of skiing, by purpose, by gender and age characteristics, by type of fastening. We will tell about all this in detail now ...
By level of skiing
Professional. Boots, where all the most modern technologies are collected. Such boots are subjected to the greatest load, and therefore, in their production, great attention is paid to reliability and quality. On professional cross-country ski boots, Newest technologies, so you rarely see leather elements in them - there are synthetic materials that are superior to leather in many ways. Technologies are used to reduce the weight of boots with a quick lacing system. There are boots for classic and skating. Boots for athletes.
amateur. Boots for lovers ski trips, trips out of town, tourists. These boots do not use the latest technology, but they can boast of a stylish design and comfort. These boots are worn by both beginner skiers and former athletes.
By appointment
- Boots for hiking and walking (amateur boots). These boots are for those who like to ski in the woods in the cold or beginner amateur skiers. There are no high requirements for such boots, so there are expensive ones and cheaper ones: depending on the materials from which the boots are made. Expensive ones, as a rule, are equipped with Thinsulate microfiber insulation (there is a lot of information about it on the Internet). In cheaper models, synthetic fur is most often used.
- Boots for the classic move(read riding styles). Low boots, in order not to constrain movement in the ankle joint. These boots have soft soles.
- Combined boots. High boots with detachable cuff. Suitable for both classic (without cuff) and skate (with cuff). They have a medium firm sole. Used by amateurs and beginner skiers.
According to age and gender
Well, there's not much to explain here...
Men's. Boots with a wide block.
Women's. Boots with a narrow last. In most models, women's models have a striking design, soft soles and are equipped with Thinsulate insulation.
Unisex. These boots are used by both men and women. Often used by women in competitions, as they have a stiffer sole compared to women's models.
Baby. Children is our future. Therefore, children's shoes should be comfortable, durable and warm. In addition, they should be easy to put on and easy to take off.
By type of attachment
According to the type of attachment, boots are divided into SNS, NNN, NN75. Read more in cross-country ski bindings !
Cross-country ski boots mostly use laces. If you let go of the laces on the boot so that it can be put on freely, the laces should not fall out through the topmost lacing hole, i.e. be long enough. A properly laced boot, on the one hand, securely fixes the foot, and on the other hand, does not squeeze it. It happens that in the upper part of the boot there is an additional linden - it protects against snow getting into the boot and serves as an additional fixative.
Acquire ski boots in no case should you try it on, and when trying it on, be sure to wear socks. It is best to choose thermal socks with polypropylene content, they will warm your feet and take moisture away from the body well, or as an option, simple thick socks. It is better not to take woolen ones, because during intensive movements sweat is released from the body and socks absorb all the moisture and become wet. The ski boot should never press. On the other hand, it will be difficult to control skis in boots that are too loose.
So, trying on a boot, you need to walk in it, stand up, tear your heel off the floor - inside the boot, the heel should fit snugly against the sole, not come off it. We also recommend that you pay attention to the fact that the fold formed during the lifting of the heel in the area of the instep of the foot should not press on the fingers. If the shoes do not fit these criteria, it means that they do not suit you.
In addition, if skate boots are chosen, the cuff should hold the leg well, but not squeeze or interfere with its movement. In general, as for the stiffness of the boot, it is the largest for the skating style, the smallest for the classics, and the average for the combi.
Boots are no less important detail for a skier than the skis themselves. Incorrectly chosen shoes will not allow you to fully enjoy riding or make progress in learning.
The best skis will not please you if you have to experience pain in the foot or leg muscles from ill-fitting shoes.
Ski boots must meet two main criteria:
- be comfortable;
- With maximum speed and accuracy to transfer force to the ski.
All produced models are divided into:
- running;
- ski.
According to the level of professionalism, they are conditionally divided into three types:
- amateur;
- expert;
- sports.
Differ:
- size;
- rigidity;
- weight;
- level of skiing (from models for beginners to professional);
- riding style (for skiathlon, skating, classic, universal, slalom, freeride, carving);
- fastening type (NNN, SNS).
Ski models additionally:
- the presence of customizable regulators (for individual adjustment);
- lacing method;
- clip material (metal is considered a priority, as it is stronger and more durable than plastic).
Each class of ski boots has men's, women's and children's models in its line.
How to choose ski boots
Properly selected boots can be used without loss of performance for 5-8 years, although in skiing It is believed that equipment loses 50% of its original cost in the first year of operation.
Among the additional features, ski models may have:
- lever for changing modes "ride - walk";
- special "tongue" for easy donning;
- thermoformed liner;
- anatomical insole (in the shops for fitting sports shoes, which exist in all ski resorts, you can order the manufacture of a personalized insole to increase comfort and more precise ski control);
- electrically heated insoles (prevent feet from freezing, powered by a battery located on the top).
Before choosing ski boots, you need to clearly determine:
- foot size;
- level of training and skill;
- riding style;
- financial opportunities.
When choosing ski models, it is important to pay attention to:
Rigidity- or FI (Flex Index) - one of the main parameters. Models for professional speed skating (FI=130-200) have the highest rigidity, which are equipped with 4 clips that securely grip the leg at significant points.
For beginners, soft boots (FI=50-70) with 2 clips are available, the tightness of the fit is regulated by lacing and a belt. Models of medium hardness and soft ones have a “tongue” for ease of putting on.
Rigid boots take the last place in terms of comfort, but they are the best in terms of accuracy and speed of power transfer to the ski, which is important when skiing at high speed.
The stiffness index is often indicated in the model name. For example, the Atomic Hawx 100 has a hardness index of 100.
Size- is determined by the size of the inner boot, which should fit the foot. The modern market offers models with different blocks, the width of which is 95-106 mm. Narrower models (95-98 mm) are designed for professional skiers.
In specialized stores, the buyer is invited to measure the length and width of the foot using special stands. The length of the foot is measured under load - with half-bent knees.
In this position, the human foot increases to 12 mm in width and 5 mm in length. A normal boot is a little cramped when trying on, but in the process of skiing, all models are pressed around the leg. The main requirement is that shoes should fit the foot tightly throughout the entire volume.
Weight- important when climbing uphill, sport models are heavier.
Sole length(base) is indicated separately, does not match the size. The setting of the mounts depends on this parameter.
Adjustable controls- with their help, the boot is adjusted to the foot. Boots for beginners have a minimum of regulators.
Main regulators:
- Clips - can be of three types: made of high-strength plastic (budget models and for beginners), combined (plastic + metal), metal (professional models).
Installed with or without a special tool. Provides precise ankle support while reducing pressure on the foot.
- Canting - adjusting the cuff inward or outward depending on the structure of the legs.
- Belt - fixes the girth of the shaft: the wider it is, the more reliable the fixation. Depending on the model class, the width is 30-50mm.
- The switch of the degree of rigidity of the outer boot (hard-soft), increasing or decreasing the control precision. The higher the stiffness, the more precise the control.
- The "walk-ride" regulator facilitates the movement of the leg while walking.
- The inner boot is molded in most modern models. Expensive models are made of an innovative material that takes the form of a leg (after warming up with hot air) after 15 minutes.
These boots can be quickly adjusted to a different user.
Mount type- there must be full compliance with the ski attachment system.
Female models can be identified by the lower position of the cuff and the greater forward lean. The form is selected taking into account the peculiarities of the female figure. Hardness can be purchased from super-soft to hard.
When choosing shoes for cross-country skiing, pay attention to:
- size;
- class of professionalism;
- material of manufacture;
- the presence of a heel stabilizer;
- attachment type.
There are two main types of cross-country ski bindings:
- NNN - two protrusions (stops) for fasteners, located in parallel, against which the toe rests when pushing, the latch is located under the fingers, 4 stiffness options. Designed by Rottefella (Norway), suitable for any models, except for children.
- SNS - one protrusion in the center for a toe stop during a push and two brackets for fixing shoes, 3 stiffness options, developed by Salomon from France.
Ski boots are best purchased from the same manufacturer as the skis.
When choosing ski boots, you can not pay attention to:
- Year of release - all leading manufacturers update their collections annually. However, newer models are much more expensive. You can purchase a model of the last or the season before last, which, in terms of its characteristics, will be no worse than the new one.
- Outer boot design - all modern ski models have a beautiful design.
- Color design.
- Rossignol X-IUM Premium Skate(carbon sole and heel, central zip for a snug fit, high cuff, Spain).
- Salomon S-Lab Skate Pro(professional, light weight, loose heel, carbon-reinforced outsole, France).
- Fischer RCS Carbonlite Skating(for professionals, lightweight last, additional fastener over the foot, protective polyurethane mesh, Austria).
- Alpina ESP Pro(for experts, one-piece carbon cuff, waterproof zipper, asymmetric lacing, carbon stabilizer, Slovenia).
One of the styles of skating that got its name because of the similarity of the skater's movement, in which repulsion occurs with two legs. In skiing, it is used for overclocking.
Ski boots for this style should:
- eliminate foot dangling;
- ensure its improved fixation;
- provide the most effective boost.
They have increased rigidity, they should cover the ankle in height to prevent injuries. They are selected strictly in size, taking into account the peculiarities of the structure of the leg.
Modern models for skating have:
- removable or fixed cuff made of carbon, connected to the sole, to fix the leg;
- carbon fiber leg stabilizer;
- ventilation system of the inner boot;
- one-piece upper without seams or with a sealed zipper at the top for easy dressing and a snug fit;
- heel support and anatomical insole;
- internal insulation;
- lacing (in some models asymmetrical for a tighter fit of the foot).
Women's models are slightly lower and wider in the calf region, have an overestimated heel and an increased angle of inclination.
Made from:
- soft skin;
- artificial frost-resistant materials.
They are produced mainly for bindings with the NNN system, which provides more effective control over the ski in this style than SNS. For children's and youth skis, boots are available under the NN75 mount.
Pros:
- increased injury resistance;
- a light weight;
- easy to put on the leg.
Minuses:
- used for skating only.
- Salomon Escape 7(for tourism, diagonal zipper to protect against snow and ice, thermoformed heel, insulating layer of thermal and moisture insulation, SNS mounts, France).
- Fischer XC Comfort(for comfortable walking, internal thermoformed material, heel reinforcement, cuff, protective layer of lacing, polyurethane sole, NNN binding system).
- Atomic Mover 20(amateur, spacious last 106 mm, tight heel girth, water-repellent protection, SNS fastening system, Austria).
- Rossignol X1 Ultra(walking shoes for beginners, improved heel circumference, simplified lacing system for easy on and off, Spain).
Cross-country skis are designed to travel over snowy terrain for distances up to 50 km at high speed. Boots for this type of ski must:
- protect the foot from moisture and freezing;
- ensure comfortable, safe riding without injury.
They are made of two-layer moisture-repellent materials resistant to low temperatures. Inside there is a heater that keeps the foot warm.
IN sports models A lateral ankle support system is used. In touring cross-country skis, all attention is paid to comfort and dryness inside the boot.
Cross-country ski boots are available:
- men's;
- women's;
- unisex;
- children's (narrower).
By type of ride:
- walking (type of pad should provide maximum comfort);
- tourist (should be convenient for hiking);
- sports (emphasis on performance).
Riding style:
- skating (high boot, a rigid cuff is required);
- classic (low with soft soles);
- universal (high with a moderately hard sole and a removable cuff).
The interior of a modern cross-country ski boot is made from materials that mold to the shape of the skier's foot during skiing.
When choosing, pay attention to:
- type of mount, which must match the type of ski mount (NNN and SNS mounts are used for cross-country skis);
- material of manufacture, on which the ease of riding depends;
- anatomical insole for a comfortable foot position;
- thermoformed back.
Boots can be laced or zippered for a snug fit. To support the ankle in sports models there is a cuff.
Pros:
- convenience (landing on the foot);
- ease;
- comfort;
- the ability to choose models for a specific style of riding and universal models.
Minuses:
- not suitable for other styles of skiing (for skiing).
- Fischer RC1 Combi(combined for skating and classic skiing, sizes up to 48, NNN mounts, Austria).
- Atomic Hawk 100(ski, asymmetrical liner, 4 clips, 35 mm strap, sizes up to 47, Austria).
- Spain X Rider(running, anatomic last, three-layer insulation, size up to 48, fastening SNS, Russia).
All well-known manufacturers of ski boots today produce models of large sizes for any style of skiing.
For men's models, these are boots from size 46 and above, for women - from 41 and above. European size (Mondo Point) is determined by the length of the foot.
Correspondence of the sizes of men's shoes (Mondo Point (international system) - RU (Russian size) - US (American):
- 31 – 46 – 13;
- 31,5 – 46,5 – 13,5;
- 32 – 47 – 14;
- 32,5 – 47,5 – 14,5.
Correspondence of the sizes of women's boots (Mondo Point - RU - US):
- 26 – 41 – 9;
- 26,5 – 41,5 – 9,5;
- 27 – 42 – 10;
- 27,5 – 42,5 – 10,5;
- 28 – 43 – 11;
- 28,5 – 43,5 – 11,5.
All major manufacturers have the opportunity to order individual models big size for a specific riding style.
Boots must be tried on with socks in which skating is planned. They should be 0.5 sizes larger (for a warm sock), but not loose.
Each company has its own developed block, so it is better to try on several options and choose the right one. The correctness of the selection is determined only in the buttoned form.
Signs of the right choice:
- in buttoned shoes, the toe does not touch the toe with the leg bent at the knee;
- rest against the sock in the usual position on straight legs;
- the width of the leg is not squeezed, there are no inconveniences from the design of the boot;
- with the leg bent at the knee, the heel is fixed, does not rise.
Properly selected shoes do not cause any discomfort and pain, regardless of the time of skiing.
Pros:
- the possibility of skiing in any style for men and women with large feet.
Minuses:
- the difficulty of buying in the trading network.
- Nordica Hell&Back H1(for experts, hardness 110-120, width - 100 mm, 4 clips, belt, one-piece design for easy donning and doffing, weight - 2 kg, Italy).
- Salomon Quest Access 70(for amateurs and beginners, stiffness - 70, width - 104 mm, 3 clips, wide belt, thermal insulation, France).
- Rossignol Alltrack Pro 110 RBC3050(for freeride, stiffness - 110, width - 100 mm, 4 aluminum clips, belt, 3D inner boot of different stiffness, France).
- Tecnica Cochise Light Pro Dyn(for professionals, hardness - 120, width - 100 mm, 4 aluminum clips, belt, tilt adjustment, Italy).
The design is completely different from the models for cross-country skiing. Consist of outer and inner boot. They differ in several ways.
By stiffness are divided into shoes for:
- beginners (50-70);
- experts (80-120);
- professional athletes (130-150).
The stiffer the boot, the more accurate and faster transfer to the ski it provides.
Some models have a hardness level switch.
Inner boot type:
- with hot air thermoforming - after heating and dressing, the liner repeats the shape of the leg in 15 minutes;
- with natural thermoforming - takes the form of a leg without warming up after several rides;
- with thermoforming of the inner and outer boot - heating in a special oven in the widest part of the foot.
Number of clips:
- 2 clip-on earrings - mostly models for beginners, in some of them the leg coverage is achieved by additional lacing;
- 3 clips - models of medium hardness for experts;
- 4 clips - standard hard boots that capture the foot at all major points.
The number of clips plays an important, but not decisive role in the quality of the tightening of the leg as a whole.
Clips can be:
- plastic (in models for beginners);
- metal (steel or aluminum in models for professional athletes).
As customizable regulators, there may be:
- hardness switch;
- “walk-ride” regulator (convenient for beginners when climbing uphill);
- canting - changing the inclination of the top to correct the natural curvature of the skier's legs;
- belt - for fixing the girth of the bootleg.
Pros:
- a wide range of models for different categories of amateurs and athletes;
- the choice of price and quality;
- reliability and comfort.
Minuses:
- not suitable for cross-country skiing;
- not recommended for long walks.
- Head Raptor 50 white(ski for beginners and amateurs, hardness - 50, 4 plastic clips, belt 30 mm, insole with thermoforming, Austria).
- Fischer Soma RC4 70 Jr(ski junior, stiffness - 70, thermoforming of the inner and outer boot, width - 99 mm, 4 plastic clips, belt, replaceable heel pads, Austria).
- Rossignol X-1 Jr(running, with quick lacing, weight - 740 g, a special loop for easy putting on, fastening type NNN, France).
- Alpina T10 Kid(for cross-country skiing, elastic top, thermal insulation, bindings NNN, Slovenia).
- Spine NNN Relax(children's tourist, for the classic course of cross-country skiing, fastening type NNN, Russia).
They are more soft than adult models.
By type of ride:
- running;
- ski.
By level of training:
- for beginners;
- for lovers;
- for athletes.
The main requirements when choosing children's models:
- reliability;
- warm;
- convenience and comfort;
- hygiene.
A child's boot should have a simple binding to the ski. The sole must ensure safe movement without skis.
When choosing children's ski boots, it should be borne in mind that the child's foot is growing, so you can buy 1-2 sizes larger, but on condition that the foot is securely fixed. Unlike adults, children have more fragile bones. The boot must have 4 clips.
Pros:
- convenience;
- reliability;
- wide range of sizes;
- bright design.
Minuses:
- high price.
- Fischer RCS Carbonlite Pursuit(lightweight last, membrane, Xcelerator sole, NNN bindings, Austria).
- Salomon S-Lab Carbon Skiathlon(professional, 3D carbon sole, SNS mounts, France).
- Madshus Hyper U(reinforced lateral ankle support, flexible membrane, NNN bindings, Norway).
Used for mixed ski race classic and skating. A discipline that is difficult in terms of technique, when during the race the skis for the classic course are changed to the skis for the skate.
At the same time, the boots must be universal - suitable for the bindings and performance of skis for both styles.
They feature a rigid sole and reliable ankle support even when the cuff is unbuttoned.
Pros:
- versatility (suitable for two styles);
- reliability;
- comfort.
Minuses:
- limited edition;
- higher cost.
- Rossignol X-IUM W.C. Skate FW(for cross-country skating skis, professional, side carbon inserts, elevated heel position, central zipper for easy dressing, NNN bindings, France).
- One Way Tigara Combi W(running walking, universal, reinforced heel, 3D cuff, SNS bindings, Finland).
- Full Tilt Soul Sister(alpine skiing, for beginners and amateurs, pad width - 99 mm, an inner boot formed along the leg, 3 fasteners on cables for pressure regulation, 3 aluminum clips, interchangeable tongues of various rigidity, Austria).
- Salomon QST PRO 90 Petrol blue(ski for experts, anatomical design with a narrower heel, thermoformed outer and inner boot, stiffness - 90, 3 aluminum clips, 35 mm belt, France).
Most ski boot manufacturers produce unisex models suitable for men and women, but special women's models designed with the female figure and foot structure in mind are a higher priority.
In the position of the body with half-bent knees, the center of gravity in women and men shifts differently, in women it is more shifted back. Region calf muscle in women, it is usually more voluminous, so the cuff in female models is lower than in male ones.
Ski models for women are:
- for cross-country skiing;
- ski.
Depending on the skill level, models are produced for:
- beginners;
- experts;
- athletes (professional).
Women's ski boots usually softer than male models. When choosing women's shoes, you should follow the size chart for the female foot.
Pros:
- the possibility of choosing a model, taking into account the peculiarities of the structure of the female leg;
- comfort and reliability;
- Beautiful design.
Minuses:
- more difficult choice than male models.
- Fischer Snowstar Yellow(cross-country, children/teenagers, bindings NNN, Austria).
- Larsen Baby(running, children's, protective valve, comfortable anatomical shoe, NNN mounts, Finland).
- Nordway Kidboof(cross-country, for beginners, bindings NNN, Norway).
Children's version, available only up to size 35-36, in shoes bigger size lacing or zipper is used. Designed specifically for children 5-12 years old who cannot securely lace up their boots on their own.
To prevent the ingress of snow and cold air, they are equipped with a deaf valve.
Available only for cross-country skiing.
Pros:
- the child can handle the clasp on their own;
- easy putting on and taking off shoes.
Minuses:
- only for beginners or amateurs;
- as a walking tour.
- SalomonAktivCombiPilot(for athletes and amateurs, men's, thermoformed heel counter, active thermal insole, supportive cuffs, SNS bindings, France).
- FischerRCSJunior(for juniors, high adjustable cuff, heel reinforcement, quick lacing system, thermoformed liner, NNN bindings, Austria).
- FischerXCControlMyStyle(women's, plastic cuff, heel width adjustment strap, heel reinforcement, thermoformed liner, NNN bindings, Austria).
- Atomic Hawx Magna 130(men's, ski, professional, stiffness - 130, 4 metal clips, shoe width - 102, Austria).
Universal models are:
- running;
- ski.
Cross-country is suitable for skating and classic style, as well as for any type of skating:
- pleasure;
- tourist;
- professional.
Distinctive design features:
- high boot;
- moderately hard sole;
- removable cuff.
Available models:
- men's;
- women's;
- junior;
- unisex.
Ski universal models are suitable for skiing:
- on prepared tracks;
- off the track - in deep fresh snow.
Features of ski universal boots:
- adjustment of the inclination of the shaft for a certain style and riding conditions.
Pros:
- the design adapts to any load force that changes in the process of changing the style of riding;
- medium-hard sole allows you to move without skis;
- can be used in any weather;
- protect the leg from mechanical damage;
- suitable for different riding styles;
Minuses:
- require careful sizing.
- Atomic Pro Classic(men's, sports, bindings SNS, Austria).
- Madshus RC 100W(female, walking, fastenings NNN, Norway).
- Alpina ECL0(male, professional, special carbon composite for strengthening lateral support, NNN bindings, Slovenia).
When skating in a classic style, the ankle does not experience heavy loads.
Distinctive features of the model:
- low boot that does not restrict leg movement;
- no cuff;
- soft sole.
Issued:
- men's;
- women's;
- junior models.
Depending on the manufacturer, one of two ski attachment systems is installed - NNN or SNS.
According to the level of skiing, they distinguish:
- walking;
- tourist;
- sports.
Pros:
- soft sole allows you to go skiing and without them;
- a large selection of models from different manufacturers;
- can be used in all weather conditions;
- Beautiful design.
Minuses:
- not suitable for skating.
Professional athletes have long been convinced that not every boot can normally move skating. That is why it is so important to choose the right equipment, approaching the issue with full responsibility.
The main thing here is always the choice of the skis and boots themselves. And if there is a lot of information about the choice of skis for skating, then the selection of boots should be discussed separately.
About skating boots
Of course, classic boots cannot be used for this specific technique. That is why, when coming to a sports equipment store, you should pay attention to a certain group of models. So how come should look like shoes for skating?
- Models must be high, and at least cover the ankle, as this helps to avoid injury and damage.
- It also protects against injury increased rigidity models.
- Like boots for a classic run, skate models should be selected strictly according to size, focusing on the length and width of the foot.
- From the whole variety of pads, you should choose the one that is ideal for the athlete.
It is also very important that skiers pay attention to the features of the attachment, to the materials from which the model is made.
In a word, there are many parameters here, and it is worth talking about each of them separately.
The importance of choosing quality boots
Of course, many novice athletes want to spend as little money as possible on the purchase of sports equipment. However, experts recommend saving on everything except ski boots. And if the athlete themselves can change the skis every season, as they become unusable, then the boots can serve their owner for 10-15 years with proper care.
Since the boots reliably protect the foot from injury and damage, you should not save on them.
The best models to choose soft leather with special insulation inside. These shoes fit perfectly on the foot, fixing it in the right position.
Choice of shoe size and fitting features
It has already been noted above how important choose the model according to the size. Such shoes should clearly fit all the features of the foot, tightly fitting it. The fact is that if the shoes are too big, the leg will not be securely fastened, and, therefore, the risk of injury will increase. If the models are too small, it will be unpleasant for a person to move around in them, and this will affect sports results.
Since high-quality skating boots are equipped with an inner layer of insulation, wear warm, no wool socks. The maximum that an athlete can afford is light socks for every day. You need to try on shoes with exactly the socks with which the shoes are planned to be used.
It is wonderful if, after the shoes have been put on, a person gets up and looks a bit like them. If during movement, the boots do not cause discomfort, then they can be used for skating.
Model stiffness selection
Ski boots for skating must be tough, as this prevents injury from active skiing. The maximum rigidity of the boots should be at the ankle, since the models must fit the leg tightly to avoid injury. Often model top made of hard, frost-resistant material with a special polyurethane coating.
While skating, a person repels more strongly than during classic skiing. That is why there is a lot of pressure on the leg here, and if the model is not rigid enough, injuries will not take long.
The average stiffness of a boot for skating ranges from 105-120. there are also special boots for competitions, which are much more rigid.
It is definitely impossible to calculate such stiffness on your own in a store, but a person can make an experiment. He needs to bend with maximum strength upper part boot forward. If it bends poorly, then the boot has good stiffness, but if the model quickly obeys efforts, then another pair should be found.
Types of fastenings and adjustments in boots
Now exists 3 types of mounts, and each of them needs to be discussed separately.
NNN.Almost the most popular type of binding used for cross-country skiing. With it, you can adjust the width of the boot. Also, such models provide maximum contact with the ski canvas, guaranteeing excellent control of their own movements.
SNS. Such models can be designed for both classic and skating. The sole is mainly made of a practical thermoplastic, and through the use of a "boot in a shoe" design, a person receives maximum fastening security for his foot.
NN75. These models are suitable for children as well as juniors. They securely fasten the foot, not allowing it to slip out. Also, this mounting option provides maximum protection against injury.
You can adjust the foot to secure it in the block using the lacing available on each shoe, as well as using zippers and Velcro straps. Due to the elastic cuff, a person is able to fix his leg so as not to feel discomfort even with the most intense movement.
You can also choose a model with a special, additional heel adjustment using an elastic strap.
Women's and children's shoe models
The basic rules for choosing models by size for girls remain unchanged. If an athlete wants to feel comfortable and not worry about injuries, she should choose shoes that fit exactly her size. To make it more convenient for women, manufacturers make some changes to their models. For example, boots la ladies do a little lower than for men. They are also less rigid, but the risk of injury does not increase.
Women's skating boots usually make a little wider at the calf, and sometimes they even put a special volume regulator here to make the shoes as comfortable as possible for ladies. In addition, some skating boots have an increased angle of inclination and a slightly high heel, which provides comfort when skating.
Perhaps the most difficult thing is to choose shoes for a child, because his foot size is increasing all the time, and the baby can quickly grow out of the selected models. Children's Shoes are less rigid and are also lower than adult models. Shoes for a child should always be chosen together with the young athlete himself in order to check the comfort of the boots and lasts. If it is convenient for the baby to move in boots, and they fully correspond to his foot size, the model can be taken.
Top 5 best manufacturers
When choosing a model, buyers very often focus not only on specifications but also on the manufacturer. What manufacturers are considered the best?
- Models for skating from the brand are popular Spine(price from 2500 rubles).
- Boots Alpina for skating, wealthy athletes choose, putting quality at the forefront (price from 4,500 rubles).
- Another popular manufacturer is the brand Nordway(price from 3000 rubles).
- Boots are popular Solomon for skating (cost from 5000 rubles).
- Another popular brand is Madshus(price from 5000 rubles).
And yet, relying only on the brand is not worth it, because sometimes the buyer overpays for it. You can find affordable models from those manufacturers who do not greatly inflate prices, but control the quality.
Professionals often share tips from their personal experience regarding the choice of boots and other ski equipment.
- Experts do not recommend buying shoes for a child for growth, because if the models are large, young athlete it is quite possible to face serious injuries.
- It is also not recommended to use boots for classic walking when skating. In such a case, the athlete will also face serious injury and leg fatigue.
- If there is a desire to purchase models suitable for both classic and skating, then there are special combined options.
- And finally, it is worth saying that it is better to choose boots along with bindings in order to be 100% sure that they fit together.
Choosing skating boots - video
Let's now watch a video where they will tell you in detail how to choose the right equipment for skating.
