What is the best bow for shooting? What are bows, and how to choose your own? There are several sports disciplines for shooting from traditional weapons.
Shooting out compound bow- entertainment that is gaining more and more popularity in our country from year to year. But, it should be noted that despite the ever-increasing army of fans of this business, Russia continues to experience a shortage of true professionals in the archery industry.
First of all, this is due to the relative youth of the crossbow and archery market in our country. That is why a good review article on how to choose a compound bow after all is a rarity in our Internet.
In the following lines, we will try to correct this unfortunate omission and undertake to tell you in all colors and in all details, dear visitors of our modest resource,about all the subtleties and pitfalls that you may encounter when choosing a compound bow.
And so you decided to buy a compound bow, but you don’t know where to start and what to look for. Let's think logically and in order.
1. Who will shoot.
- First - you need to determine the level of the shooter. In other words, to analyze who is the lucky owner who will shoot from a compound bow.You should start with the level of preparation. A person can be a beginner, therefore, he can pick up something more budgetary to start with, a person can be a professional, and in this case it will be difficult to get off with an inexpensive blocker.
- Secondly, an important factor in the selection of a bow is the weight and dimensions of a given arrow. How tall and how fit you are will determine the draw length and poundage of the compound bow you choose.
In order to determine the length of your stretch, stand against the wall, spread your arms to the sides and ask a friend to measure the distance from the tips of your fingers, then divide the resulting number by 6.35. The result will be the length of your stretch.
As a rule, compound bows are designed for people with a draw length of 25-31 cm. A man of average height has a draw range of 27-29 cm. When choosing a compound bow, it is very important to pay attention to the possibility of adjusting the draw length. It often happens that at first you have one style of shooting and one draw corresponds to it, but over time it can change.
Do not buy new bow in this case. Today, fortunately, most models can adjust this parameter, but there are budget models with no such option. Pay attention to this. As for the poundage, with compound bows, unlike tradition and classics, everything is simpler.
The fact is that at the moment of the maximum tension of the bowstring due to the rotation of the blocks, the force is released and you instead of say 27 kg. you usually hold 65-80% less weight. The only thing you should pay attention to is the poundage before the tension is released.
As a rule, men can cock a bowstring from any blocker, which cannot be said if you consider a girl or teenager as the owner of a bow. 
2. Why do you need a compound bow?
Actually, the price of the product will largely depend on the goals that you pursue. If you are looking for a powerful compound bow for big game hunting then be prepared to shell out a large sum of money.
As a rule, a good hunting bow with a kit costs from 40,000 rubles.
Extra class bows for professional shooters and hunters are produced by companies such as Bear, Hoyt, PSE. If you want to know more, follow the link to the relevant section.
If you are not going to go for a bear and your bloodthirstiness is limited to small game, or perhaps you are a conservationist and you need a compound bow for recreational shooting on insulating stands,
you have the opportunity to meet the amount up to 18,000. this case we recommend that you pay attention to such archery brands as Mankung and INTERLOPER.
On the other hand, if you are not constrained in funds, and your soul needs a holiday, feel free to buy an American blocker - accurate shooting and excellent mood are guaranteed to you.
Having answered two main questions - who shoots and why shoots, you can delve into the design of a compound bow in more detail and consider some of its features. 
Actually, the main thing in a compound bow is the handle, shoulders and blocks.
handles compound bows in today's archery market, there is a great variety of a wide variety of shapes and colors.
But with some intellectual effort, all this endless variety can be grouped into three main categories.
These are concave handles, curved and straight. In the English classification - reflex, deflex and straight, respectively.
- Concave hilts are found on the fastest compound bows, the very design of such a hilt contributes to the speed of the shot, as it reduces the base, or distance between the bowstring at rest and the center of the hilt.Compound bow models BEAR Arena 30, HOYT Nitrum 30, BOWTECH Carbon Overdrive and many others have a similar design.
- Curved handles are on less fast bows, the design of such a blocker does not allow the arrow to develop extra speed due to the same base, which in this case is larger.But at the same time, bows with curved handles are more accurate and are usually used by less experienced shooters, whose shooting accuracy is far from ideal. Compound bows with recurveshoulders - this is quite a rarity today.
- Bows with straight shoulders are a cross between the first and second, combining the pros and cons of both models.
magnesium, less often from carbon and some other light metals. The lightest blockers are with carbon handles, but you need to understand that they are also the most expensive.
The second, and perhaps the main, thing you should pay attention to when choosing a compound bow is the type of blocks installed on the product.
We can conditionally divide the whole variety of bow blocks into
4th large groups- round, soft (soft), hard (hard) and single (solo).
- Round Blocks - These are by far the slowest bow blocks of all of the above. But round blocks have one very important advantage - accuracy. These are the most accurate and quietest units withless vibration and recoil. This is why round block faces are so popular with archers all over the world. Bows with round blocks are rarely used by hunters,since in addition to not the highest speed, an arrow fired from such a bow flies in an arc.
- Soft blocks are the slowest of the hunting blocks. It is silent and easy to set up.
- Hard blocks, or hard blocks are blocks with maximum speed, as a rule, they have irregular shapes (from a very elongated ellipse, to a triangle in some cases). The most serious disadvantagea bow with such blocks is a failure in tuning due to the pulling of the bowstring. Hard block bows tend to be used by experienced archers - for whom speed is everything and bow tuning is a pleasure.
- Solo blocks are the know-how of the American company Mathew's. In fact, these are bows with one rigid block and one round block, which does not participate in shooting. This design has become very popular.in the crossbow and archery industry, and today such bows are in the lineup of almost any manufacturer. What is the salt? One custom block instead of two, while the speed is almost the same. Veryconvenient, isn't it?
Another point that is important when choosing a compound bow is its equipment. As a rule, top models, such as PSE, Bear or HOYT, come with a full body kit. But often budget models require understaffing.
What else do you need besides the compound bow itself.
- Shelf (required)
- Aim
- Peepsite
- Stabilizer
- Release
- Kraga
- Shako
- Arrows
- Case
- Wax
- A set of keys
- Arrow taker
- Quiver
If we have helped you Amazing. In any case, if you want to buy a compound bow, do not limit yourself to the data that you can find on the Internet on various sites and forums, call us or write an e-mail andwe will gladly give you the most complete advice.
What is this thing? How does it differ from the usual bow, so familiar to everyone from children's games? How does it differ from classic bows, shooting from which is olympic view sports around the world? I will answer right away. Ease of use. Simplicity and convenience. Does this mean that the compound bow is a bow for the lazy? To some extent, yes. But it is imperative to make an adjustment for twice, or even three times, the greater strength and speed of an arrow fired from a compound bow.
So what is it, and where is the difference?
The difference is that "compounds" - compound bows work not only by the force of elastic elements - shoulders.
shot from classic bow occurs due to the straightening of the shoulders, which the archer bends, pulling the bowstring. It is the shoulders that are responsible for the strength and speed of the arrow of an ordinary bow.
Video - Compound bow device and the basic principles of its operation
In the blocker, everything is not quite so. A compound bow also has shoulders, otherwise it wouldn’t have been a bow. They provide the power of the shot in the same way as on its predecessor - a recurve bow. But the initial speed of the boom is controlled mainly by special blocks located at the upper ends of the arms - eccentrics, interconnected by a system of cables for synchronous operation.
It is this system of blocks and cables that makes the “compound” a bow for the lazy, because its main difference from its classical counterparts is that the bow itself, after the shooter has pulled the string, helps him calmly aim and fire. The fact is that at the very end of the course of the stretched bowstring, the blocks provide the moment of disappearance of the effort that the shooter must make to keep the bowstring in a state of combat tension.
You no longer need to hold the string with your hands shaking from muscle cramps - this is the main difference between a compound bow and a simple one. All that is left to do for the shooter is to produce a calm accurate shot. It is because of this quality that I called the “blocker” in this article - a bow for the lazy.
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This property of the compound bow makes it a very accurate weapon compared to conventional classic bows. In competition, the ten target that an athlete shooting in the compound class must hit is one-quarter the diameter of a typical archer's ten. These are the requirements of all archery sports federations for a very accurate blocker.
How else is a compound bow different?
Many, very many.
Having retained the basic shape and purpose, the compound bow differs from the rest in the materials from which it is made. I hasten to inform the reader that only very rare and few models of compound bows had, indeed had (past tense) parts made of wood in their design.
The main materials from which the handle is made - the middle part of the compound bow - are alloys of light metals; aluminum, magnesium, etc. The main material of the shoulders is carbon. So the compound is a very technological and modern weapon, a little like traditional bows antiquities.
The second most important difference between the compound class is that the design of the bow and the materials from which it is made do not “get tired” like the design and materials of classical and traditional bows, from which it is necessary to remove the bowstring during storage and transportation, bringing them into a non-combatable state. .
Blocker is always combat-ready. He does not "get tired" of keeping a combat watch in the service of his owner. During long-term storage, it is not necessary to release it, disassemble and remove the bowstring and cables from it, as it is not necessary to perform these procedures in reverse order to equip the bow.
Agree, serious advantages in relation to other bows.
But what is an onion? This is a sniper rifle! This is what the reader will probably say after reading my story. Partly true, no doubt. Accurate, fast and strong. Even the optical sight has, like a rifle. I'll get better. Not an optical sight - a diopter scope with a lens, a front sight, a protective hood and a level. Everything, as expected from a serious weapon, even the trigger. Surprised? Yes Yes. For shooting from the compound, it is recommended to use a special trigger device - “release”, and not fingers, not gloves and special fingertips.
The factor of muscle fatigue and fingers shaking from the tension of constant shooting disappears completely with the release.
It has a compound bow and a slotted rear sight that all rifles have. It's a pipsite. A small thing, installed right among the fibers of the bowstring, At the level of the right eye of the arrow, which has a hole in the middle, or a "sight bar" with holes of different diameters. It is through it that the shooter sees his aiming scope and further - the target. It turns out a stable long line of sight, strikingly increasing the accuracy of hits, forgiving the archer some mistakes in shooting technique.
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Unlike traditional (historical) bows, modern bows, including Olympics and Compounds, are equipped with a shelf for the arrow to come off. In our century, the arrow no longer needs to be held with a finger from the side so that it does not fall out or go to the side.
The holding of the arrow remained in the shooting of the so-called "long bows", and traditional bows. Sometimes it is very painful, because the fired arrow, starting its rapid movement, burns the shooter's fingers with the shaft, I'm not talking about the contact of your fingers with the plumage of the projectile.
Therefore, for onions and sports shooting from which a special arrow shelf. With her appearance, the archer stopped holding the arrow with his fingers and no longer cared about how the arrow would fall and leave the bowstring. Now she lay on her comfortable shelf.
The shelf of the usual classic sports bow - "Olympic" is very simple. This is a plastic part, permanently fixed on the bow handle, creating the effect of an artificial groove - a hollow for an arrow. You will say that an arrow may well slip out of a small groove with a powerful bow. Maybe. But a little ahead, it is held by a metal plate “clicker”, which, working together with the shelf, forms a rigid lock, and until the athlete makes the right movement, reaches the bowstring, the arrow will not come out from under the clicker and not free from the “lock”. And then there will be a shot.
Again difficult. But if things are not so simple with regular, classic bows, what happens in the class of compounders? What kind of shelf stands on these wonders of modern technology. Right. The compound bow shelf itself is also a marvel of technology. A compound bow is already seriously different from its counterparts, therefore, all its devices are no less seriously different.
The shelf for the arrow of a compound bow is not a stationary fixture. I will say more. There are such an unimaginable number of shelves for the block that it can make your eyes run wide. Each has characteristic difference and appointment. And most importantly! A compound bow shooter can change his stock, replacing it with another often, easily and simply. It is attached to the handle of the bow with a special screw.
Shelves of compounds do not create the effect of "hollow". On the contrary, sometimes they look like a pin sticking out of the bowl, a mustache, and so on. But the arrow will slip, the reader will say. Take it easy. She won't go anywhere. Moreover, during the shot, the shelf also springs under it, relieving the outgoing arrow from unwanted contact with the rigid structure and unnecessary friction. There are designs of shelves that are connected to the bow cable system and, when fired, generally fall from under the outgoing arrow, completely eliminating contact, providing a “clean” exit. Such shelves are called falling.
Both regular and falling limbs of compound bows are adjustable by their owners, providing the shooter with the softness of the spring at the “arrow exit”, the desired height of the arrow support and the desired horizontal angle in relation to the bow handle. All this cannot be done with the shelves of classical bows, just as it is impossible to achieve such a clean release of an arrow when shooting a traditional or historical bow, when the shooter is forced to stick his fingers everywhere.
Now it's time to tell about the system for protecting the bow from throwing up during the shot. All throwing devices, when fired from them, inevitably throw up. To avoid this, the modern archer uses a stabilizer.
When the bowstring slipped from the fingers, or released from the release, the arrow, which has a long body, continues to move, sliding along the shelf of the bow, or along the fingers of the shooter. At this moment, the bow itself, having released all the energy of its bent shoulders, throws up. But! The tail of the arrow is still firmly on the string! The arrow will go up the target, thrown there by the bow.
So that the tossing does not interfere with the accuracy of the hit, a stabilizer is attached to the bow handle, in a place below the grip of the shooter's hand. Many uninitiated people call it a "stick", asking why this "stick" is attached to the bow? Many initiates (in in general terms) call it a "balancer", or "counterweight" - more correct names compared to the stick.
In fact, the stabilizer has only one purpose - to pull the bow down, preventing it from tipping over and prying off the outgoing arrow. But about the stick, I do not agree. After all, this “stick” is made of carbon fiber and is equipped with a weight of a verified mass at the end, or it has a whole system of weights both inside and outside, along its entire length. Very difficult to manufacture, science-intensive and technological "stick". Separately, I would like to tell the reader about its cost, which forever cures the delusion and drives away the desire to call the onion stabilizer a “stick”.
Many bows often have more than one or two of these "sticks". Any bow, except for the historical and traditional ones, can have a whole system of stabilizers: horns, mustaches, and so on in the common people. They do appear to be horns and mustaches. In fact, these are smaller front upper and side lower branches - stabilizers. These "whiskers" and "horns" help not only to prevent the bow from tipping up, but also to block the weapon to the right and left.
Here you see how in fact everything is not simple and complicated. How now, after all of the above, is the onion perceived? A bent stick, the ends of which are connected by a bowstring? Well, this is modernity, the reader will say. In ancient times, for sure, everything was simpler, closer to nature. I hasten to assure you that it was not. Do not be deluded, do not let it lead you into the darkness of ignorance.
Neither in antiquity, nor now simply it was not. Making a bow and the skill of shooting from it was a serious heavy craft, not accessible to everyone. But in ancient times there were no compound bows! - will object to me.
And suddenly there were? What if this is a delusion? After all, the device of the modern compound is suspiciously similar to the device of the ancient Archimedean ballista. Naturally, in antiquity there were no materials from which any modern bow is made. But everything new, as you know, is well-forgotten by people old.
In general terms, I tried to tell the reader about what the “Compound bow” - “Compound” is. I hope I managed not to fall into the abyss of boring scientific and purely sports terms in the course of this narrative and bore you with snobbery.
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Compound bow - compound. Very accurate, strong, fast, convenient and beautiful weapon.
Compound bow is the pinnacle of evolution, the completion of the transformation of an ordinary bow into something more. Something more that so many athletes, hunters and outdoor enthusiasts around the world have given their preference to.
And so little is known in our country! Almost nothing is known about compound bows to an ordinary Russian citizen, just as it is not known that the competition in the “compound” class is held all over the world, along with Olympic shooting from the classic bow "Olympic". Often, archery tournaments are mixed, both compound and classic archers participate in them, fighting for one, first place with each other. Naturally, athletes shoot at the same time at the "ten" of different diameters, in the block class it is smaller. But the accuracy in the block class is greater.
Compound archery has long been a world sport with its own champions, its own shooting schools, its own federations. We seem to be the last country in the world where this type of archery has remained in its infancy, although more and more more athletes prefers to move to a heavier class "compound" from the traditional Olympic "classics".
I will touch on another, little-known topic. The theme of hunting and recreation with compound bow. A topic known in any developed country in the world. Bow and arrow hunting sites can be easily found on the Internet. Note! Almost all hunters in the photographs of these electronic resources used a compound bow.
At outdoor activities in nature, and in our country it is a vacation in the country, a light blocker can bring a lot of joy to the whole family and especially children when organizing mini-tournaments in archery at a target. You don't have to worry about your wife getting a muscle strain or a child with a dislocated joint. A compound bow simply will not allow this due to the peculiarities of its design. You just have to follow the general safety precautions when shooting (such as not pointing the bow at a person, etc.) the compound will take care of the rest.
Compound bow - Compound. Very accurate, fast, convenient. A bow that has become a technological marvel of the twenty-first century. I spoke about him only in general terms. Although, each of its parts, each of its accessories deserves a separate detailed story.
Vadim Andreev
LOOP ON A BOWSTRING
The loop on the string has long been a natural and familiar choice for both hunters and athletes. Since the average length of the compound bow is less than 34 inches, the loop on the string is also a recommended must. It is better to use a loop made of materials that include Fast Flite or Dyneema, although cheap nylon substitutes may well work.
How to tie a loop correctly
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Some previous articles on bow and crossbow hunting:
The invention of the bow and arrow made a real revolution in military affairs and hunting craft. Being simple, like everything ingenious, it allowed hitting a target from a relatively long distance, while leaving the shooter in relative safety.
Times have changed and throwing weapons have been replaced by firearms, but interest in bows has not disappeared. On the contrary, in last years there is a steady upward trend in demand for onion products. This is good news, however, despite its apparent simplicity, the topic is fraught with many subtleties and nuances that need to be studied. In the case of a choice, it is necessary, at least in general terms, to imagine what aspects should be paid attention to at the initial stage.
general description
A bow is recursive, the shoulders of which have a bend in the opposite direction from the shooter. This solution allows you to achieve a sufficiently high speed of the arrow, despite the fact that it will be easier to pull such a bow than a straight one. This effect is achieved due to the fact that at the moment of tension, the shoulders work on the principle of a double lever, which allows you to create more throwing force. Thus, a number of advantages of a recurve bow can be distinguished:
- Relatively compact dimensions
- Light weight
- Sufficiently high shot speed
- Comparative ease of drawing
According to the combination of operational characteristics, the acquisition of a recurve bow is the most appropriate for a beginner. Although, if you manage to fully master the technique of using a bow, then you may not have to switch to another type. Here everything will rest on the qualifications of the shooter.
Selection Options
Before purchasing a bow, you need to decide on a number of parameters for both the weapon itself and the shooter.
Goals and objectives
First of all, you should clearly understand why the onion is purchased. If we are talking about hunting use, then indicators of its power, ease of wearing, and dimensions will be important for the bow. And in general, . And if the bow is needed for recreational or training shooting, then here you can not concentrate on the pull force. Instead, it would be much more logical to pay attention to models with comfortable handles and a simple design.
Leading eye
This point can often be overlooked, but people who have not dealt with shooting (and it doesn’t matter from what) may not know which eye they have is “leading”. Here we are talking about the fact that one of the eyes perceives the picture without distortion, and the second shifts it somewhat.
In order to understand this issue, you need to add the index and thumb on the hand in a ring and on outstretched hand point this impromptu "sight" at some particular object, for example, a doorknob or a wall switch. The object should be clearly visible in the circle when viewed with both eyes.
Next, you need to alternately close the left and right eyes and pay attention that when one of them is closed, the object goes beyond the circle. The eye that sees the object as well as both is the leading one. This parameter is quite important, since it will depend on which bow handle you need to choose. If the leading eye is left, then you need to take the handle for left-handers, which is held by the right hand.
Drawstring length
Another rather important parameter when choosing a recurve bow is the choice of the length of the bowstring. It is important to note that this type of bow allows you to stretch it to almost any draw length, however, there are certain recommended values that are specific to each model. The bow should be chosen, the maximum effective draw length of which corresponds to the anthropometric parameters of the shooter.
To determine your optimal string length, you need to stand in a stance, as if preparing for a shot. Rest the fist of the holding hand against the wall, and take the other away as if a bowstring is stretched. The distance from the wall to the corner of the mouth on the side of the shooting hand will be the length of the drawstring, which is optimal. The results obtained must be converted to inches, since it is in these values that manufacturers indicate this parameter of their products.
Stretch length Bow length 23″ (approximately 58 cm) or less 62″ 23″ - 25″ (approximately 64 cm) 64″ 25 - 27″ (approximately 69 cm) 66″ 27 - 30″ (approximately 76 cm) 68″ 30 - 32″ (approximately 81 cm) 70″ 31 - 34″ (approximately 86 cm) 70″-72″ With a growth of 170-185 centimeters, they usually take a bow 68 ″ long.
Bow draw force
As one of the important parameters for choosing a bow, it is worth taking into account the tension of the bowstring. It is important to understand here that according to the current legislation, an ordinary citizen is allowed to freely purchase a bow with a bowstring force of up to 27 kg (or 60 lbs). However, when buying, you should not strive for the maximum value.
The fact is that when shooting from a bow, muscles are involved, which are practically inactive in other cases, so the tension force of the bowstring must be selected based on the individual parameters of the shooter. For beginner shooters and women, 12-15 kg / s will be enough for aimed shooting at targets at a distance of 25-30 meters. Translated into generally accepted designations, this is 28-32 lbs (pounds). As you gain experience and skills, this figure may increase, but the main thing is the comfort of pulling the bowstring when shooting.
Bow length
Before buying, you should also decide on the physical dimensions of the bow. Here everything is also selected exclusively individually. The longer the arms, the greater the leverage, and hence the potential speed of the shot, however, this increase in dimensions leads to a decrease in maneuverability, which is important, for example, in hunting.
There are many subtleties in choosing your first bow, and you won’t be able to figure everything out right away. Definitely not worth chasing big capacities and top brands. First you need to get a general understanding of the essence of shooting a recurve bow, and when experience comes, an understanding of which bow will be ideal for you will come.
5 tips for choosing a bow for shooting was last modified: March 22nd, 2017 by Anatoly Kanishchev
Archery is a sport in which success can be achieved at any age. The main desire. However, in order not to lose your zeal and love for throwing weapons at the beginning of the journey, it is important to choose the right bow for a beginner. To understand which bow to buy: cheap or expensive, read this page to the end.
Which bow should a beginner choose?
Before answering this question, let's think: do beginners need sophisticated devices?
On the one hand, this may need to be "over the top", because the archer's skills will improve, and then you will have to spend money on a more "advanced" projectile. How to avoid it? We will answer a little later, but for now let's talk about the other side of the coin.
You may be quite trained, but in archery your strength will not help. During the stretching of the bowstring, those muscles work that are almost not involved in everyday life for beginner archers. To begin with, a beginner should take a “soft” copy with minimal tension. Focus on practicing skills, and don't force your body to do extra work.
But is it possible to reduce spending on a more advanced projectile in the future?
Yes, you just need to buy an inexpensive collapsible device for beginners or a block model with many settings (then you can easily make the projectile tighter in the future).
Overview of cheap models for beginner archers
They can be divided into two broad categories: block and recursive.
Recurve is a type of projectile familiar to us from films about Indians and archery competitions. They are relatively inexpensive, have a relatively small weight and unpretentious body kit. For ease and simplicity of design, such devices are loved by beginners. They are reliable, and most breakdowns can be fixed on their own without contacting the service. Want to buy a bow for beginners? Then you need to know that recurve bows fall into 2 more categories:
- classic - with arcs curved in the direction of the shot. This design allows you to shoot further and more accurately than a traditional copy. These devices are mainly used for sports and marksmanship development. It takes years of practice to become a good shooter, and they're great if you're serious about developing your shooting skills.
- traditional - with straight or curved arcs, closest to ancient shells. Shooting is intuitive, that is, without additional devices, this is why they are good for beginners.
The absolute advantage of compound bows for beginners is a large number of settings. They will allow you not to "grow" out of the device, but to adjust it to yourself along with the development of skill. However, when purchasing a block structure, you must be prepared for its careful operation, because it can easily break if not handled correctly.
Which bow should not be bought by a beginner?
A common beginner mistake is to buy a bow that is too cheap to shoot. A low price is often an indication of poor quality.
Externally, such devices may look quite attractive, but specifications completely disappointing. All that inexpensive bows are suitable for is to serve as an interior decoration.
Where to buy a bow for a beginner athlete in Moscow?
If you want to buy an inexpensive model that will bring success in shooting and encourage further victories, look for a store where you will be provided with detailed and competent advice.
All bows of the Arbaletika online store have a warranty period, and at the end of it you can hand over your projectile to our service center. Our prices, terms of delivery and payment you will be pleasantly surprised too!
We will be glad to see you in our store!
The popularity of hunting compound bows today is so high that in megacities, where the vast majority of the main buyers of compound bows live, sales of TOP-class bows are more than twice as high as sales of smoothbore weapons, although bow hunting is still prohibited in Russia.
Such popularity is associated with the exclusivity of the compound bow hunt itself, and with the opportunity to join the aesthetes of a rare type of hunting, to show comrades an outlandish type of hunting and equipment, as well as the lack of need to license such purchases, and the indomitable desire of still young, but already wealthy people compete with Nature on an equal footing, dressing a hobby in such a technologically new, but such a long-forgotten adventure environment, memorable from childhood. Even at the sports shooting range, fellow archers always come up to chat with the archers, whose bows are painted in mountain camouflage colors. It is always interesting for a stand-up, even eminent one, to see what new hunter-archer masters have created, and to listen to stories from the world of wildlife, from which stand-ups are far away in their daily 100-shot training. You are guaranteed popularity. But until the first mistake, which, of course, they will not forgive you. You are different from both. Therefore, the hunter-archer must be above chance. And this gives only experience, and, often, not at all pink.
Having reviewed bow hunting itself in general terms in a previous article, and also providing our readers with a detailed guide to compound bow shooting (links at the end of this article), today I would just like to give a few recommendations to novice “compound hunters” for faster involvement in the professional process of developing useful personal experience. This is always best perceived when you tell people what you use yourself. Moreover, as always, the equipment was selected for me by professionals high level. Here are some of their tips in my interpretation, taking into account personal feelings, and I will tell you. So, how to choose a compound bow for hunting.
Choosing a compound bow for hunting
We are not rich enough to buy cheap things, so you need to choose the right bow for hunting. This classic French proverb can be safely attributed to hunting bows. But with a few caveats. There are a lot of manufacturers of compound bows, but today there is no alternative to the American manufacturer. For the most part, this is due to the fact that bow hunting in America is a very popular and widely promoted activity, which means that the manufacturer has long been focused on demand. The industry is rich and historically backed by Native American roots, which results in the most advanced machines in the field of hunter-archer. Importing a hunting bow to America is a much simpler matter than importing it to Ukraine (although, if you do not have an invitation from the Federation of Shooters or a hunting society, you can still negotiate with Ukrainian customs officers if you have printouts from their own legislation with you, which they are completely unaware of). The laws of Ukraine are so poorly developed that they contradict themselves. Therefore, if you do not have a copy of the Decrees on the recognition of compound bow shooting as a sport and documents on the certification of your bow not as a throwing weapon, - better bow do not advertise at customs. Just put it on the top luggage rack (since it's flat and not visible), and forget about its existence. As a rule, customs officers do not climb up, limiting themselves to a superficial glance. Therefore, neither I nor my friends had any problems. But copies of documents certified by the seal of the seller should always be carried with you, otherwise you can lose an expensive thing. Our customs officers know the legislation much better, but they look at hunters with suspicion, forcing them to check in their bows in luggage, knowing full well what to announce 60-pound hunting bows"sporting recreational equipment" can only be made for good money in a booming industry, and that smoothbore weapons with a 60-pound bow can only compete in rate of fire, no matter what they are loaded with. Well, nice, we have fewer problems, more freedom. Yes, and no one has yet killed anyone from the block player in Russia. Either all archers are people of high psychology, or people with such a level of wealth for "showdowns" prefer rapid-fire firearms.
I also want to immediately warn the user from attention to idle tales of various kinds and legendary legends about the home-grown "Wilhelm Tells" in Rus'. These already exist in the scary tales that roam among aspiring archers. For example, not long ago another story “about a bear littered in a second on the spot with one arrow to the neck” flashed by. Yes, such a case took place. However, this archer went to his "boar ambush", and was not going to hunt a bear at all. Moreover, the shooter had no choice - the bear had already stood up when the archer began to make a Hamlet decision. And the most interesting thing is that the experienced shooter had absolutely no intention of releasing the “Robin Hood Arrow” from his bow, but tritely tried to quickly and lethally shoot at the heart of a rising bear from a fairly close distance. Even if he succeeded, a bear at such a distance would probably have time to tear it. But, by the will of Chance, the arrow turned out to be smarter than the shooter and landed exactly on the clubfoot's neck, interrupting the latter's all potential for movement. The bear collapsed dead on the spot, and the archer sat there for a long time with trembling hands, wondering how in such an amazing way at such a distance he so successfully missed with a fright. Any other shot could have cost him his life. But the legend is overgrown with details, and the participant in the events simply prefers to keep quiet. A compound bow is not a deadly weapon at all - it is only a tool for filigree craftsmanship, which you will have to hone for more than one year. And only then will you be able to show anyone that a modern compound bow is much more effective and more pleasant than any smooth-bore, and often rifled hunting weapons, allowing you to beat both a bird and the largest animal in any conditions at distances inaccessible to a firearm. At the same time, not being a weapon at all.
As for the choice of a particular manufacturer of a compound bow for hunting, each wader always praises his swamp, however, all well-known sellers and archers for hunters recommend MATHEWS MacPherson bows first of all. The BEAR bows are closest to them, but the “bear”, compared to the “Matthews”, is a rather rough and unreasonably heavy machine, which is by no means important when hunting with a bow. BEAR should be taken if you are going to hammer nails or push bushes with this bow, and physical training you have quite a decent one, and you love every opportunity to “pump up a muscle”. Otherwise, before using the bow, you will have to use a good expander for some time to pump up the triceps, biceps, dorsal and other muscles that will allow you to comfortably aim by stretching the BEAR. The so-called "reset" (that is, the ability of the bow eccentrics to remove tension from the archer's hand when drawing it) is 80% for MATHEWS (that is, the effectiveness block mechanism is such that it reduces the archer's effort to hold the arrow in a stretched bow by 5 times compared to the primary tension of the bowstring). I do not think that each of you will pull BEAR at least three times (or even once). The BEAR's trunnion cable handling is generally ridiculously flimsy, and so on. All this was explained to me personally by several repeated champions of Russia in archery, and I myself checked their advice many times on my own experience, having dragged both BEAR and MATHEWS, and their clones many tens of kilometers through the forest and through the fields.
Firstly, this is a 2008 model, and in 2009 nothing significant happened in this area. Let me explain.
Of course, McPherson released a new Monster model in 2009, but it has no significant value for us. There are many reasons for this. "Monster" is redundantly powerful. The standard "Switchback" will pierce the moose through and through from a distance of 60 meters, and will kill at least from 100 (if you can hit it from that distance). It is possible to bring down elephants from a bow, but hardly anyone among us hunts elephants with a bow (if this happens, then such a buyer himself knows what he needs without me). We also have nowhere to shoot lions through tangles into the mane, as well as hippos. "Monster" exceeds the force of string tension allowed in Russia for bows sold without permission from the Department of Internal Affairs. "Monster" is very difficult to stretch, and not everyone can do it (and if you have a stretch of 29-30 feet, then on the third time it is quite difficult even for "jocks"). It will be funny if you are tired and cannot stretch the bow in front of the object of hunting. Yes, if it's not very sad later. If you have a large stretch (29-30) and tips weighing 140 grains, then the power reserve of an arrow fired from a Switchback from a distance of 60 meters (the limit for a smoothbore weapon) is such that that bear is hardly found in Russia ( including the white one) whom it cannot kill. I don't think any beast in Russia would require a 29 foot drawback Switchback at all to have a tip weighing more than 125 grains. And that is not all.
There is one more “but” that only experienced archer hunters know about. After a lethal hit, a large animal retains another 30-50 seconds of life, during which it is able to reach the hunter. Therefore, careful archers take a hunting companion with a smoothbore or a carbine (just in case), and careful and experienced archers ... take not extremely powerful bows, or loosen the screws for clamping the bow shoulders. That's exactly what I do.
In fact, the arrow should not fly through the beast. It is much better if it remains in the body of the beast, thereby fixing its muscular corset, and often the mobility of the skeleton. Thus, it seems to bind the beast's mobility until it starts to turn off, thereby limiting its mobility, and accordingly increasing your safety. Therefore, I unscrew the fixing bolts on both sides of the bow by about 180 degrees on the wild boar, 360 degrees on the wolf and gilt, 540 degrees on the hare and black grouse (the latter are not dangerous, but pulling out of the ground or tree trunk in the first case 30, and in the second 7 centimeters of the arrow and I also don’t want to constantly change the blades on the tips). For the same reason, they unscrew the same amount for game, and also in order to find their arrow when they miss, either by themselves or with the help of a dog. By the way, carbon arrows float successfully, so lifting them from the water is quite possible, which means shooting at waterfowl (the arrow dog can easily find and bring it, it won’t bite through the carbon).
Secondly, and the DXT models from MATHEWS, which are supposedly more modern than the Switchback, are also less recommended by me for all hunters. There are also several reasons.
For example, indeed, DXT is more compact and lighter than Switchback (not by much, but still it is). However, if you have a large stretch (that is, enough Long hands), then when mounting a shako with arrows already 28 feet, you will realize that the arrows are much longer than the bow, and all the compactness of the DXT was useless. With arrows longer than the bow itself, the whole structure looks purely visually not quite aesthetically pleasing, and this is often important for a TOP buyer. In addition, with a large stretch, the bow itself, when shooting, does not behave as we would like - a large bowstring stroke affects a small structure more, dampers are overloaded, and this is already serious. Moreover, the DXT is a rather delicate thing, and the powerful connection of the shoulders with the handle (frame) of the Switchback is much more reliable in all sorts of accidents, and even more necessary if you use the course of the shoulder screws to adjust the tension of the bowstring. After one of the Barnetts I bought broke down in this particular place, I personally lost the desire to buy structures lightweight in this place from any manufacturer. Even such eminent as MacPherson.
Third, Built-in MATHEWS harmonic stabilizers, the new Barracuda string, wooden grips, stylish ties, flawless paintwork, powerful roller tensioners, cool design, classic metal logos, and more, make MATHEWS bows not just a powerful weapon, but also a work of technological art. , which is just nice to pick up after all the other angular-pompous, dirty-camouflaged "multi-humped camels".
If you don’t like one Switchback model, you can try its modifications, and there are a lot of them. They differ in just a few details. For example, McPherson himself describes the Risen-seven as follows (let alone my S2):
With this bow, you get the most comfortable compound bow with a comfortable 7" brace height and the smoothest performance a Mathews compound bow has ever had. This is the best dynamic performance achieved by Mathews. Compound bow - the smoothest shooter! The new block with two peripheral weights operates quickly and quietly. Fast like an LX, smooth like an OutbackT: ...a killer combo! As a leader in vibration absorption devices, Mathews takes this compound bow one step further by incorporating two dampers into the slider retraction. The Mathews compound bow uses: New string highest quality. Branch with a slider on ball bearings System of mufflers of harmonic vibrations (dampers). Arch pockets. String holders. Linear stop (determines the center line, ergonomic). Complete set: hanging quiver, hunting regiment and sight, stabilizer, knitting.
Characteristics:
BRACKET HEIGHT: 7""
PULL LENGTH: 25
LENGTH FROM AXLE TO AXLE: 33
HANDLE LENGTH: 25 1/2
STRING/CABLE LENGTH: New ZebraR Barracuda String
BOW WEIGHT, POUND: 4.34 lbs
AMO MOUNTING SPEED, ft/sec: 241
IBO STANDARD MOUNTING SPEED, ft/sec: 318
PEAK LOAD, lbs: 40, 50, 60 lbs
RESET %: 80%, 65%
UNIT TYPE: StraightLine C1 Cam"
Buying a compound bow for hunting
Few choose desired model compound bow for hunting. You have to be very careful in choosing your seller. The bow is not a smoothbore weapon. The bow is assembled for a specific shooter, taking into account his personal strictly individual anatomical features. This is not for you to adjust the butt stock. Everything is completely different here, you can’t undermine anything here. And only a good implementer can competently do this. Judge for yourself. The length of the shooter's arms determines the stretch, and, accordingly, the length of the arrows. The strength of the shooter determines the strength of the draw of the bow, and, accordingly, the weight of the arrowheads. The length of the shooter's neck determines the choice of shelf for the arrow and the choice of scope. Features of the anatomy of the shooter's wrist determine the choice of release (a device for smooth descent of the bowstring), because it is almost impossible for hunters to shoot without a release, due to the necessary accuracy of hitting at long distances. The release allows you to lower the bowstring exactly as in firearms- with a trigger (with or without a handle, flexible design, or rigid, long or short). The structural features of the shooter's face and its stretching determine the choice of pip-site (the second aiming device after the sight, which is attached to the bowstring). It is almost impossible to shoot well from someone else's bow.
Therefore, the seller must be not only an experienced professional, but also an experienced practical hunter, and even be well equipped for pre-sale bow preparation. The store, at a minimum, must have a bow press for assembling it, a stand for placing sights on the bow and choosing the type of future shooting geometry with this attachment, an arrow trimming machine, a stand for plying plumage at the customer's choice, and so on. Moreover, after assembly, you should be given several lessons in block shooting so that your bow does not fly apart at the first empty bowstring, you do not cripple strangers, do not shine an arrow from half a kilometer into the window of a house on the outskirts, do not kill anyone with an arrow fired into the air (and an arrow - not a bullet - in this situation it will easily kill), they wouldn’t have recaptured left hand with a bowstring when fired, and indeed, they would hit something. And for this, the pins (sight lines) on the sight must be set in accordance with the now individual ballistic characteristics of your particular bow. Accordingly, the store should have its own archery range nearby, and a qualified master should conduct classes with you. Better "master of sports", and even better - "champion of Russia". The choice here, unfortunately, is small. Personally, I took my bows to INTERLOPER, which I don’t regret at all, especially since this is the only seller directly related to Russian Federation in archery. In this case, the “Champion of Russia” and an experienced compound bow hunter will sell and adjust the bow, and in the shooting range you will meet more than one “ multiple champion Europe”, which will give you some individual advice. Our archer athletes are very fond of hunters, and they often notice that many hunters shoot no worse than themselves. Yes, and it will be interesting for you to look at those 4-5 people in Russia who shoot from classic bows (without any reset) at a distance of 100 meters and hit 10-centimeter targets with the whole beam from one quiver.
We buy attachments and accessories for a compound bow for hunting
I hasten to please you that the round sum in which the bow itself is estimated is only 50% of the complete set required for shooting from it. And here we are waiting for a whole bunch of mythologized questions. Archer-hunters are exactly the same thrashers as gunsmiths. Therefore, you will hear plenty of tales not only from colleagues, but also from sellers. Marketing has not been canceled either. The fact is that it is attachments (as in any business) that bring more dividends than new models of basic equipment. That's what sellers are trying to do. Let's try to save you some money, and at the same time significantly improve the result. Here, the most expensive is almost always not the most effective. Moreover, the choice of one detail inevitably influences the choice of another. Buying "all the best" means 100% ruining the result. Let's explain.
Arrows. Of course, Carbon Express. Why, you will understand below. However, it is impossible to choose an arrow without choosing a tip and plumage. The best plumage is the shortest, and the most expensive, oddly enough. The difference is about 10-15% speed. However, speed is needed only for a powerful fight, and you won’t go for a bear and a duck at first. In addition, at first you will successfully lose a dozen arrows, and it is better to look for an arrow with large and bright plumage (4”), and not with small (2”) and camouflage. At the start, I chose CX Edge 350 USA arrows - in terms of characteristics for an average beast, they are in no way inferior to the best, and at a price they are three times cheaper. Get more experienced - buy "Carbon-Express Mimetic" with a short 2" tail. It is three times more expensive, but faster and less noticeable, especially with a shako full of arrows (and it is always full before meeting the beast). Earlier than after a year of practice, you will not need TOP models. Significance and arrow speed are only important when your ability with a bow is close to professional. And for a good shooter, the distance and visibility of the arrow does not matter at all. So - a paradox - when you may need best arrows- then you will simply not need them. Well, except perhaps when hunting for a wolf from close range, or for something very exotic and protected, perhaps for cats. The beast must be fast and vigilant, and the distance is minimal. But such situations are few. If you are not a master of disguise and tracking, the beast will not detect you visually and not by arrows much earlier than coloring and 10% arrow speed will matter. The animal that may need TOP arrows will smell you at least a kilometer away, and their coloring will not help you much.
Moreover, you will not go hunting with the same arrows with which you practice shooting. Firstly, you will pretty much wrinkle the plumage of training arrows, and secondly, you will probably blunt their tips if you train not in a shooting range, but in nature. In any case, you will inevitably lose some of the arrows, no matter how well you shoot. Sometimes when shooting in nature at low targets (and I always use empty plastic bottles, which, alas, are full everywhere), the arrow very easily enters not just into the grass, but "under the skin", sometimes burrowing completely underground. Often, it is not the plumage that sticks out of the ground, but half of the arrow with the tip that came out after overcoming some underground section of the trajectory. Empty bottles are also good for training because after piercing they continue to travel with the arrow. At the very least, you should not go hunting if you cannot "lay down" three cans in a row with 25-30 meters with three arrows.
Tips. If you're tall enough, it's pointless to pick tips heavier than 125 grains from 29 feet. Someone to beat them. Dispel doubts - "sports" tips 17/64 Combo Points are very convenient to beat small animals, including a fox, and a medium bird, including a pheasant. For the latter, take slightly weighted "sportsmen", and that's enough. Many "hunters" say - "but these tips fly crookedly", "and those ones fly crookedly", "but these ones fly straight". By the word "crooked" they mean "crossbow" tips with wide blades, and by the word "straight" - "nail" with narrow blades. My friends, you do not have arrowheads flying crookedly, but arrows. You buy cheap arrows that dangle like boiled pasta in flight, and accordingly, any sailing tip will lead the arrow to the side when the arrow is bent. Not the tip of the curve - don't buy bad arrows. For any animal larger than a fox, I use a Spitfire 85 3-Blade 3-PAK (three is enough, you should always carry an alternative at the ready). Moreover, all three blades of the Spitfire have a microscopic saw on each blade, so it goes much better than a knife into butter - it just flies through, breaking through the bones. There are alternatives, and this is a matter of taste. Hook shockers MK-F008/125 made in China were originally designed for fishing. Chinese-made shockers are much cheaper, but when buying them, you must certainly weigh them on electronic scales and pick up tips with the same weight. Purely practically, the “shocker” pierces through both fish and birds, and when shooting at a bird, it allows you to “hook” the plumage and does not rebound like a “sportsman” when it hits the plumage obliquely, which is especially beneficial when shooting capercaillie and black grouse. But shooting a hare with a “shocker” is unaesthetic - you will tear the object. The hole in a small animal should be one and neat. However, shooting at such a nimble and lightning-fast object as a wild pheasant, a flying duck, or a running hare without a shocker is problematic. Therefore, personally, I always wear three different types tips of the same weight, and I select the right type of arrow before shooting.
Shako. A shako (generally understood - a “quiver”, although this is not a quiver) must be taken as a regular one for this bow. "Regular" differ in the number of arrows placed in them. Non-standard tips cut the soft lining in the blade keeper, and shockers crush it with their hooks, leaving dents and cuts forever. So either choose tips that match the slots, or get ready for some design to be ruined right away. An experienced shooter wears a shako for no more than 3 arrows. Those who like to shoot - 5 arrows. I personally consider a shako for 7 arrows for hunters to be generally inappropriate. And heavy, and interferes, and no one has fired so many arrows in one series at a real target. Unless you decide to drive pheasants and partridges in dense bushes and generously flavor it with carbon.
Stabilizer and knitting. This counterweight is necessary in order to prevent the bow from falling over after the shot, and also to dampen the inertia of the shot. The tie merges the bow with the brush, prevents the bow from tipping over, falling out of the hand, makes it easier to carry, allows you to shoot while holding the bow only with your little finger (or without holding the bow at all (you can’t squeeze the handle when shooting). Moreover, a good stabilizer is poured into silicone in the shape of the handle, and in this configuration it is convenient to carry the bow by the stabilizer, or even place it on the shoulder when moving in thick grass and undergrowth. correct stance archer consists, among other things, in the element of virtual support on the bow, as when leaning on the protruding corner of the wall with the hand (a training exercise for shooters from the blocker), then the stabilizer and knitting serve to calmly hold the bow when its weight is not kept from falling at all, and just imprinted in the near third of the shooter's palm. The stabilizer and binding should be good enough and, above all, comfortable on the hand, matching the balance of the bow. When you stand “in the corner” to develop a grip on the handle, then you will understand how important the quality of the stabilizer is. I use Shock Stop Black from the same manufacturer as the bow.
Krag. Don’t put on a legging on your left hand once, and you will immediately understand why it was needed. That's exactly what happened to me. I put on a legging a hundred times (especially in the heat and in the forest, when sweat pours out from under it, or ants crawl under it), and I thought that only beginners needed it, but for the 101st time, tired of the march at 10 km, I took it off at a halt, and after 15 minutes, on the very first arrow, I realized what a bowstring strike on the left back of the forearm was like. The hand, tired from carrying the bow in readiness, and relaxed after resting, stood up during sudden shooting under the bow "inside out", for which it was immediately "bruised" by 10 cm when lowering the bowstring at a speed of 340 feet per second with a power of 60 pounds. A loud statement consolidated the success, and for 3 days I had to walk with a mark on my hand that did not decorate the archer at all. I immediately remembered my field part of the service, when we calculated the "dushmans" by bruises near the collarbone. Leggings need to be taken short and anatomically suitable for you personally. If it puffs up in the area of the elbow bend, then you run the risk of getting a bowstring there. I use 3-Strap Armguard Mossy Oak from Tarantul. I would modify her straps.
Release. This is a trigger device, the importance of which is very great. When hunting, this thing will always hang on your right wrist. Therefore, the release should be no less comfortable than a watch strap and should not interfere with the use of a knife, or get tangled in branches. A rigid release with a metal body allows you to smoothly adjust its length and eliminates stretching, moving out, uncomfortable location of the trigger tail, it is always quickly groped “without looking” due to weight and size, which is very important before shooting at any suddenly noticed animal (and it always is ). Hard release when wet and will not stretch over time. Handles in releases are not needed at all. They just get in the way. The straps stretch all the time and are very dreary to adjust. The verdict is: Cobra Mamba R1. Do not shorten the fastener immediately, because in winter you need to wear gloves on top of the release, and sometimes the sleeves of the jacket.
Shelf. This “launching pad” is supported by the front of the arrow. Oh, how many wonderful discoveries will be opened to you by sales managers and colleagues. Well, spit on all these tips easily and easily. 80% of "new developments" are a means of making a profit, and they are useless for hunting. They will successfully lie to you that the “bristle” shelves hold the arrow in any movement and in any position of the bow, and they will also advise split ones so that the arrow can be inserted from the side. And it shouldn’t be any - that’s the catch, it should be strictly vertical and in liquid level, and the arrow has nothing to do on the shelf until the shot itself, and the slot interferes with the uniform course of the plumage. I have not yet seen a master who could accurately shoot in any position of the bow. The stroke of the hand after the shot for different positions of the bow is different, which invariably affects the result. Moreover, - a shelf with bristles transmits to the arrow all the vibrations of the hand after the bowstring is lowered. This means that the bristly shelf not only reduces the speed of the arrow by 15%, but also significantly worsens the accuracy of the hit, superimposing all the vibrations of the bow itself on the arrow during its entire passage through the shelf. The best shelf is the missing shelf. These include “recessed” or “falling” shelves, which sharply go down when the bowstring is lowered. Thus, the arrow with its front part seems to hang in the air, without experiencing either friction from the bristles or vibrations of the bow frame. Its course is now affected only by the grip with the bowstring from behind. And if your tired or “nervous” hand “fell” after the shot, then the arrow will go only slightly lower (the bow falls forward and down, which means the string goes up, respectively, the arrow itself, resting only on the back of the string, pecks with the tip down) that at a boar at a distance of up to 30 meters, it doesn’t matter at all when aiming from behind under the shoulder blade or into the lung - well, you will get into the heart area, in extreme cases - into the peritoneum, which is also not bad, the result of a lesion with a three-bladed tip will differ little in lethality - a maximum of 30 seconds to full "stretching", and hardly more than 10 meters of "residual travel". In the worst case, hoist an animal that will not go far. With a fleecy or rubber shelf, due to “transmission” errors, you run the risk of sticking the arrow right in the middle of the indicated distance. My choice is the Quiktune 2000RG RH. The stock change is a complete rebalancing and reconfiguring of the bow, including changing the saddle for the release hook. So choose the shelf once.
Aim. The favorite accessory of all hunters, including archers. A good aim is a good shot. The sighting device in the block beam consists of two aiming points. The first point is the sight itself, the second is the pip-site, that is, such a device on the bowstring that acts as an aiming frame on the gun. In the bow, the opposite is true - the adjustment takes place at the front point, and the point on the bowstring is only limited-movable (it moves synchronously when the position of the sight itself changes). With a pip site, things are relatively simple. The hole size must be chosen to exactly include the rim of the main sight. The “elastic bands” on the pip site tend to break at the most inopportune moment, so you need to limit yourself to just a small ring of the right size, leaving the rubber bands to lovers of incomprehensible devices of dubious effectiveness. The sight itself should be chosen carefully. All “adaptations” with lenses tend to get littered and covered with drops, so it’s better to forget about them, otherwise by morning you will not only see a wild boar or a hare in this sight, but you won’t see anything point-blank at all. Multi-pin fluorescent sights with a light accumulator are the ideal choice. I am using Cobra DR Five 0.19 Pins. Not a cheap "toy", but worth the money. Such a sight can be safely leaned on the shoulder when carrying without fear of moving it, and in the dark, the luminous pins will be clearly visible in any situation. They are very good for aiming at any distance.
Hanging and adjusting equipment on your own is quite difficult, but for those who wish, you can read all this in quick guide on compound archery published earlier, and you can download the original Mathews documentation from the links below. Benefits of this kind are quite rare, so we are glad that we can help you with something.
If you are interested in purchasing a compound bow or crossbow, then I advise you to contact the Interloper crossbow center. You can view the full range of compound archery equipment on the INTERLOPER website.
With best wishes and see you soon, Andrey Shalygin
Original Mathews documentation:
