How to choose plastic skis by height table. How to choose skis for height and weight? With and without notch
With the onset of the most fabulous and magical time of the year, it would be worth considering what you can do with yourself in winter? What is only worth playing snowballs, sledding, skating and, of course, skiing. Why not implement best moments of the past? Today, the shelves of shops with ski equipment are clogged with various products, so the question is more acute than ever: how to choose skis, mountain or cross-country?
How to choose the right skis: we decide on the style of riding
Before you go shopping in a specialized store, you should decide what style of riding you own.
If you're new to skiing and want to get a pair of skis to explore the winter forest, then most likely your skiing style is classic. This style is inherent in almost all people who start skiing.
The second style is skating. A skier in this style resembles a skater, pushing off inside ski tracks from snow. This view implies a wide track and dense snow.
Having set yourself the goal of how to choose skis for a beginner, do not try to appropriate the riding style of a pro, as it will be problematic to move through a snowy forest on skis for skating.
Going to the mountains: what skis to choose?
Skis for skiing in mountainous areas are called mountain skis. According to the target audience, they are of several types:
- professional- the name speaks for itself, this species designed for professionals. They are marked with the English word "Sport". For buyers of such skis, there is no question of how to choose skiing Right. These are people who have been riding for years and have professional riding skills. Professional alpine skis are very light in weight, but the most expensive in price;
- amateur skiing- this type of ski is also sports and is marked "Fitness". Such skis should be chosen by people who ski not so long ago and do not consider themselves professionals in skiing. They are much heavier in weight than professional skis, but also more affordable;
- tourist or "Touring"- this type is designed for long and difficult tourist trips. The width of tourist skis is much larger than the rest, as well as the weight, which sometimes reaches 1.5 kg. In their structure, they are more rigid, often come with notches to avoid slippage;
- pleasure- they are slightly similar in appearance to tourist skis but are lighter in weight. Pleasure skis are intended for short skiing over short distances on snow-covered plains, beginners can choose them;
- children or teenagers- this type is marked with the word "Junior". They are often made of plastic; skis of this type have fasteners for a regular boot. Such skis are light and comfortable for a child to ride, it is a pleasure to choose from the range of this series of skis.
How to choose skiing according to a person's height
Before choosing skis, pay attention to their length or, as they say, size. If a person is a beginner and is not confident in his abilities in skiing, then it is better to take skis at the rate of minus 20 cm from the person’s height.
A person with an average level of training should pay attention to skis, the length of which is 10 cm less than his height. Professionals choose alpine skiing according to their height or 10-15 cm less.
Choosing the right cross-country and skating skis
Purchase ski equipment only in specialized stores, check for certificates of conformity of goods to European standards.
Before proceeding with advice, how to choose skis cross-country and skating, it is necessary to clarify what kind of ride they are suitable for. Cross-country skis are designed for fast skiing. short distances, they are light, smooth, sliding.
Skating skis are the toughest, their main visual difference is that they do not have a corner bent up.
How to choose cross-country skis
- Choose cross-country skiing follows individual parameters, such as: height, weight, professional skills and, of course, financial capabilities.
- Cross-country skis are selected at the rate of +15, 20, 25 cm to a person's height.
- The weight of skis and poles should not be too large. Cross-country skiing involves a fast pace of skiing, pay attention to these parameters, as they are very important.
How to choose skate skis
- Skis for skating must be rigid, since when moving, the block of the ski track must spring back and push the skier forward. This type has a blunt, not bent toe, and the length of the ski track should exceed the height of a person by 17-20 cm.
- Determine hardness. Place two ski tracks vertically, with the sliding surface towards each other and, squeezing the pads with all your might, look at the gap between them. If the clearance is 3-4 mm, then these skis will suit you. If only 1-2 mm, then it is better to refuse the purchase due to insufficient rigidity.
How to choose skis by height? The table will help determine the length of skis and sticks for skiing an adult.
How to choose skis and poles for the height of the child
Children's and teenage skis should first of all be soft, which will allow the child to quickly learn to ride and get the most out of riding. Many parents, in an effort to save money, purchase skis for their children for growth.
Longer skis are harder to manage, the child may not be able to cope, and this will push him away from the desire to ride. When choosing skis for a child who is just learning to ride, you need to calculate the size of the skis according to the weight of the child: if the weight is about 20 kg, then the length of the skis should be 70 cm, 20-30 kg - it is better for the child to buy 90 cm skis.
« How to choose skis child so that he does not get injured while riding them? This question worries many parents. If the skis and equipment are chosen correctly, then the child will feel comfortable on ski run and the chance of injury is greatly reduced.
It should be noted that it is not at all necessary to buy expensive skis for a child to ride. Children grow up and are often not advanced professionals in skiing, the feeling that loved ones are nearby and doing a joint activity is much more important for them.
This table will help you choose the right length of skis and sticks for skiing a child:
Making the right choice: wood or plastic
wooden e is a classic and ecological type of ski, proven over the years. The disadvantages of wooden skis include the fact that they are not as slippery as plastic ones. In addition, they weigh significantly more.
plastic skis more practical and modern. They win in operation under various weather conditions and snow conditions. If snow makes it difficult to ski on wooden skis at above zero temperatures, then plastic will pass this test with a bang.
Besides, plastic skis durable, they are not deformed, like wooden ones from moisture and dampness.
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Ski poles are an important attribute of skiing, which is why their choice must be approached wisely and competently. For more comfortable riding, it is important to be able to choose the type, material and shape, as well as to choose the right height that suits your own height properly.
A lot depends on the material. Various metals and alloys can be used in the manufacture, but there are the most common materials. ski poles, which are sold in sports stores most often. The material for each part is taken differently, so four positions need to be considered.
Shaft
Shaft - the basis of a ski pole. The most important selection criteria for this case will act strength and weight. Lightness and wear resistance depend directly on the composition, so each of the points should be analyzed separately.
1. Carbon composite
This option will be one of the best. Products, in which carbon composite is the leader, are light and rigid, as well as durable and comfortable. Poorly conduct cold, which means that the hands of the skier will remain warmer. On the market, models with a similar characteristic are very expensive.
2. Aluminum
The golden mean is aluminum. And all due to the fact that in products that contain aluminum, they combine both light weight and reliability. They conduct cold well, which is why hands can freeze faster and stronger. Also, this type of stick is very rigid, which is why elasticity is in question: the sticks bend, but do not break. The bending process itself brings the sticks closer to wear each time, but do not worry - the shelf life of these materials is very long. It is worth remembering that this option is not cheap and can cost a pretty penny.
3. Carbon
It is considered the easiest among most options. It is rarely sold on the market from pure material, third-party impurities are most often added, which directly affects the pricing policy of the model. Buy sticks with a similar composition most often.
4. Composite
Half-breed from the world of ski poles. It contains both fiberglass and carbon composite. Prices vary depending on the quantity of one of the characteristics: a high concentration of carbon composite makes the model more expensive. Flexible, but quickly fail.
5. Fiberglass
The best among the worst. It has a low cost, but is a poor choice for connoisseurs and professionals. Such products break critically quickly and most often do not withstand falls and bumps, which happen quite often during skiing, especially when studying with beginners.
Handle
A handle is a holder or handle, usually fitted to the skier's hand. Prices vary depending on the convenience of the handles, their adaptability to the palm and fingers.
The handle should lie comfortably in both hands. The most popular and comfortable handles consist of rubber and cork. The slots in the holder are also important, in which the fingers should not slide too much both on the bare hand and on the palm of the glove.
Lanyard
Lanyard for ski poles is a special loop in order to hold the pole more comfortable and easier. For the cheapest models, this is a practically useless accessory, while for expensive ones, it is a whole auxiliary tool (trap).
The noose lanyard is common among those who do not put the distance of the palm and the hilt above all else. A more complex lanyard - a trap, is used among those who need a strong girth.
The softness of the lanyard determines whether the hand will be rubbed while riding. Do not forget about this, as this is an important criterion, especially if you ride without gloves and mittens.
The length of the lanyard should be such that the skier's hand rests on it, and not on the handle. It is best to choose a lanyard with an adjustable length.
support ring
And also "snow rings" and "paws" are below all protruding parts. An important criterion for the support ring is its size. Beginners often use wide feet because of their greater stability. In this case, the smaller size is suitable for professionals, because because of it the snow ring does not interfere while skiing.
But the size of the support ring depends not only on the professionalism of the skier, but also on the snow cover itself: large paws are used on loose snow. They produce snow rings, both plastic and leather, wooden.
Tips for ski poles
The tip is the sharp end of the stick. Some manufacturers produce products with interchangeable tips, which can later be replaced with third-party ones. For beginners, most often pick up versions without the use of metal, thanks to which it is almost impossible to get hurt. Experienced skiers prefer to use carbide and metal tips.
Types and varieties of ski poles
Read about what types of cross-country skiing exist. Now let's talk about the types of sticks.
Sports
First of all, they perform the function of movement.
The support ring is small, aimed at experienced skiers.
The shape is cone-shaped, narrowed towards the bottom. Manufacturers try to pay attention to the balance of the skier, so the sports variation of the poles has a light end, which is why the load eventually moves to the handle area.
Tourist
They have one thickness around the perimeter, which reduces the fragility of the product.
Large diameter support ring designed for loose snow.
Ski
Initially, they perform the function of balance to maintain balance when climbing and descending mountain slopes.
Such products have a telescopic shape used for slopes of different steepness.
Cross-country (flat)
Used to move across the snowy plain, perform the function of repulsion.
The view depends on the type of run.
The onset of the cold season does not mean at all that it is necessary to hide at home under cozy bedspreads, since winter provides a lot of opportunities for active rest. And it is precisely this kind of rest that should accompany your leisure time in order to keep you in good physical shape and help improve your health. Skiing is full workout of all major muscle groups with maximum exposure, and even on fresh air. For example, you can go skiing, familiar to us from childhood. Whereas in last years more and more fans of alpine skiing began to appear, there are also lovers of more relaxed cross-country skiing. However, before choosing skis for skating, it is necessary to decide what types of these products are in general.
Main varieties
Cross-country skiing according to its purpose is usually divided into two main types: for classic and skating. In the classical style of skiing, the skier moves the skis parallel to each other, and in the skating course, the athlete steps in the same way as skaters walk, that is, he uses inside skis to push off the snow. That is why it is worth knowing how to choose skis for skating, so that when you visit an online store or a regular sports equipment store, you will be guided by your needs.
Production material
If we talk about what these products can be made of, then there are only two options - plastic and different types of wood. The former have a whole range of advantages over the latter, as they are characterized by strength, durability and the ability to develop significant speeds. They do not delaminate, which cannot be said about wooden ones, which are prone to changing their properties as a result of repeated contacts with water. However, the main advantage of wooden skis is their cost, as a result of which they become the best option for beginners who are just starting to take their first hard steps in the snow.
Skating ski parameters
Knowing the basic parameters will help answer the question of how to choose skis for skating. What to choose, in the end, will depend on their rigidity and length. The selection process should be as thorough as possible, since the convenience of the skier depends on this, but the personal preferences of the athletes also play a significant role in this situation. It is important to understand that skis are intended for skating, which are shorter and more rigid compared to the classics, but here it should be remembered that hard skis are much more difficult to manage. If you answer the question of how to choose skis for skating by height, then it must be borne in mind that their length should be 10 cm more than the athlete’s height.
Subtleties of choice
Skis for skating differ from classic models in the absence of curved noses, and their height, as already mentioned, should be only 10 cm more than the skier's height. When buying this option, it is very important to choose the right stiffness. Ideally, it should be calculated as follows: skis must be installed on a flat surface, after which a person stands on them, evenly distributing their weight on both skis. Next, you need to take a probe, it can even be a sheet of paper to measure the clearance area between the floor and the ski in front and behind in relation to the boot. It should be approximately 35-40 and 10-15 cm, respectively. After the skier transfers the entire body weight to one ski, the clearance zone should become 10 cm smaller and less in the back and front, while the gap should end earlier than the heel of the boot is located.
However, not every store will allow you to do such a check, so you can use another method. If you are deciding how to choose skis for skating, then there is another option for checking them. It is required to install the skis vertically, fold them to each other with sliding surfaces, put your hands on the blocks, and then squeeze them with force. If the gap between the skis is about 3-4 mm, then they are quite suitable for you, and with a gap of 1-2 mm, we can conclude that they are too soft for you.
So, now you understand how to choose skis for skating in terms of stiffness. Now it is worth saying that it is not recommended to buy these products in a hypermarket. It would be best to go to sporting goods store where you can choose the most suitable option for yourself with the help of a consultant. Usually, such specialists are well versed in how to choose skis for skating. Fisher is a popular brand to look out for as it makes products High Quality at a reasonable price. Each manufacturer has its own line for each category of skis, with different characteristics and prices. In this case, the choice of one or another option depends primarily on how much you are willing to spend.
ski boots
If we talk about how to choose skis for skating, then one of the important attributes in this case are ski boots. They should be rigid, high, fix the ankle. For these purposes, it is completely inappropriate to use classic boots, since they are low, and the legs in them will get tired very quickly during such skating. As a result, you will not get any pleasure. The size should correspond to the size of the foot, while there is no need to leave a margin for woolen socks. Modern boots are characterized by density, softness, and their thermal parameters are designed for use with one toe, but rather dense.
The right choice of boots is an additional answer to the question of how to choose skis for skating. Much distinguishes them from the classics, so in the store you should once discard all unsuitable options. Boots may well become the most expensive part of the “skis - bindings - boots - poles” set, but you should not save on them, because poles and skis can be changed next season, and boots will last you another 10-15 years, no less.
ski poles
There is one general principle here: the lighter the sticks, the better. The same principle applies to skis and boots. Lighter sticks are made from carbon fiber or carbon fiber, but they are quite expensive, so it is recommended to take fiberglass products. They are characterized by rigidity, lightness and relative cheapness. If we talk about how to choose skis for skating by height, then it is important to know that poles should also be selected according to height. On average, their length should be 15-20 cm less than the height of the athlete himself. But even here it is possible that the skier will select sticks according to his own criteria, because it is convenient for everyone to use them in different ways.
Ski waxing
If it has already been said about how to choose skis for skating, now it is necessary to decide on the preparation of skis for operation, and this is impossible without their lubrication. In professional circles, at least ten layers of different lubricants and accelerator powders are applied to the sliding surface using a special iron, scrapers and brushes. Skating enthusiasts do not need to resort to such tricks, but they cannot completely abandon the use of lubricant. It's all about the composition of the sliding surface of the skis, because it consists of high molecular weight polyethylene, and it begins to gradually wear out from constant contact with snow. If you do not lubricate the skis, then this surface will gradually turn into completely unsuitable for skiing, which will require you to carry the skis to a professional for the scraping operation. After every 2-3 skiing it is recommended to rub the skis with paraffin special purpose and then rub it with a stiff brush. Manufacturers have taken care of the laziest as well, for these purposes they produce aerosols that must be used before each ride.
skating
If your decision to learn how to ski is pretty solid, then you should first decide what style of skiing you will use. In accordance with this, you also need to purchase skis. Not so long ago, people began to skate - in the eighties of the twentieth century. The founder of this style is considered Gunde Svan - the legendary skier from Sweden, who became Olympic champion four times.
The peculiarity of this type of skiing is that the athlete is repelled from the track inside skis. At the same time, the route should have a large width, and also be well-packed. The advent of skating style has led to a change in the familiar look of traditional classic cross-country skiing. In addition to the fact that these are shorter skis with blunt noses, these are also products with a center of gravity shifted by 25 cm. In this case, in order to answer the question of how to choose skis for skating by weight and height, you need to understand that not only the type of snow is important here, but also your personal preferences.
If you just love Sunday skiing in the snow, then your best bet is to opt for models of medium and low hardness. Very rigid products have quite significant drawbacks - they spring and slip at the moment of push. But here it is important to understand that their rigidity is proportional to their own weight - the larger this indicator, the greater the rigidity should be. For children, select only soft skis. With their help, the process of mastering skiing will be much easier. Buying skis "for growth" is the most significant mistake of parents. This is with regard to the question of how to choose skis for skating by weight.
The length is selected according to the formula already indicated earlier: height plus 10-15 cm. For sticks, the formula is a bit similar - height minus 20 cm. How to choose shoes has already been said earlier.
Mounts
Another important point, which addresses the question of how to choose skis for skating. It is associated with the choice of mounts for them. For amateur skiers, experts usually recommend stopping at NORDIK 75 bindings. In general, these devices can be mechanical or automatic. The first option involves manual latching, and their reliability is quite high. Automatic bindings have a peculiarity in that they work after the boot bracket is placed in the groove. This type for amateurs will be the best choice.
Fisher skis
How to choose skis for skating "Fischer"? There is something to say here. Why do people prefer this particular brand? These are high quality skis with excellent performance. The main advantage of Fischer skating skis is their highest strength and a special hollow core, which makes the body as light as possible. In addition, many models are produced using advanced technologies, for example, in the carrier material there are special carbon fibers that take on the task of providing maximum flexibility with extreme strength. Perfect skating comfort is ensured by the use of a patented profile. Reducing the mass of skis became possible due to the use of a holey toe.
Another advantage of these products is the maximum removal of reference points. This allows the athlete to gain the maximum stability that can be required in biathlon training and competition. We continue to figure out how to choose skis for skating. Reviews of the products of this brand speak of their wide temperature range. For example, in their lineup there are representatives focused on riding on dirty snow or during a thaw. However, practice shows that they are well suited for training in cold weather, and you don’t even need to use any special lubricants. This versatility is quite captivating.
The only disadvantages of Fisher skis are their high cost, which is beyond the reach of most domestic consumers. For professional products, the price is 30 thousand rubles or more, which is quite expensive for amateurs. But the brand also presents standard modifications that have good characteristics.
conclusions
Now you understand how to choose skis for skating. Photos of these products and pictures of skiers demonstrate that this is a very important task, because they not only provide the convenience of skiing, but also the safety of the athlete. It is not necessary to immediately buy these products for yourself, you can limit yourself to renting skis. This will allow you to feel in practice which option will be most convenient for you. And if you don’t have such an opportunity, then all the indicated recommendations should be useful to you. Good luck with your choice and happy riding!
From this article you will learn how to choose cross-country skis and poles for height as a beginner skier, as well as how to choose the right size ski boots. Below are tables for selecting ski sizes and boot sizes.
Choice of cross-country skis and poles
In order to choose the right cross-country ski length, you need to decide what style you are going to ride - classic (on the ski track) or skating:
- For a classic move, add to your height 20-25 cm
- For skating, add to your height 10-15 cm
There are two types:
- Notched (step): the notch is a ribbed sliding surface of the ski in the binding area. The notch allows the skis not to slip and not to use holding ointments. Perfect for pleasure skiing with classic cross-country skiing.
- With a smooth sliding surface (wax): these are skis without a system of notches, the sliding surface is smooth, the use of holding ointments is required. Unlike notched skis, these skis are suitable for any style of skiing and are better suited for combined skiing, skating, and sport skiing.
When selecting ski pole lengths also focus on the style of riding:
- Sticks for the classic move should be about 25 cm smaller than your height. In this case, when you are skiing in boots, the sticks will go into the snow up to their feet, and the handle of the sticks will reach your armpits. It is this length of ski poles that is optimal for classic skiing.
- For skating, ski poles must be longer - approximately 15 cm less than your height.
Table of selection of cross-country skis and poles by height:
| Skate style | Height | Classic style | ||
| skis | sticks | cm | skis | sticks |
| 200 | 175 | 195 | 210 | 165 |
| 200 | 175 | 190 | 205 | 165 |
| 200 | 170 | 185 | 205 | 160 |
| 195 | 165 | 180 | 200-205 | 155 |
| 190 | 160 | 175 | 195-200 | 150 |
| 185 | 155 | 170 | 190-195 | 145 |
| 180 | 150 | 165 | 185-190 | 140 |
| 175 | 145 | 160 | 180-185 | 135 |
| 170 | 140 | 155 | 180 | 130 |
| 165 | 135 | 150 | 170 | 125 |
| 160 | 130 | 145 | 170 | 120 |
| 155 | 125 | 140 | 160 | 115 |
| 150 | 120 | 135 | 160 | 110 |
| 145 | 115 | 130 | 150 | 105 |
| 140 | 110 | 125 | 150 | 100 |
| 135 | 105 | 120 | 140 | 95 |
| 130 | 100 | 115 | 140 | 90 |
| 120 | 95 | 110 | 130 | 85 |
| 120 | 90 | 105 | 130 | 80 |
| 110 | 90 | 100 | 120 | 80 |
Choice of cross-country ski bindings
The most popular types are:
- 75 mm (NN75)- classic steel fasteners (three-pin system), familiar to everyone since Soviet times, are still very popular due to their simplicity, reliability and low cost. These mounts are perfect for touring.
- NNN and SNS - modern systems bindings, differing from each other with guide ledges for boots along the bindings. Such mounts are better suited for more active and sporty riding.
Choice of ski boots
All are made from modern frost-resistant synthetic materials, less often - from genuine leather.
All ski boots are insulated, which allows you to choose boots of your size without a stock and wear them without a woolen sock. We recommend using thermal socks.
The sole of the ski boots is suitable for a specific binding system: 75 mm, NNN or SNS:
- Boots for bindings 75 mm are available in standard Russian sizes. The size of the boots can be chosen completely according to your foot size.
- Boots for NNN / SNS bindings are produced in Euro sizes, which are approximately 1.5-2 sizes smaller than Russian ones, i.e. if you wear Russian size 39, then you should take size 41 boots.
The easiest way to choose your shoe size is to measure with a ruler shoe insole length that you are wearing.If it is not possible to get the insole out of the shoe, then it is necessary to measure the length of the foot. How to do it correctly - see under the table below.
Ski boot size selection table according to insole length:
| Insole length, cm | Russia size | Euro size |
| 19 | - | 30 |
| 19,5 | - | 31 |
| 20 | 30 | - |
| 20,5 | 31 | 32 |
| 21,5 | 32 | 33 |
| 22 | 33 | 34 |
| 22,5 | 34 | 35 |
| 23 | 35 | 36 |
| 24 | 36 | 37 |
| 24,5 | 37 | 38 |
| 25 | - | 39 |
| 25,5 | 38 | 40 |
| 26 | 39 | 41 |
| 26,5 | 40 | - |
| 27 | 41 | 42 |
| 27,5 | - | 43 |
| 28 | 42 | 44 |
| 28,5 | 43 | - |
| 29 | 44 | 45 |
| 29,5 | - | 46 |
| 30 | 45 | 47 |
| 30,5 | 46 | - |
| 31 | 47 | - |
How to measure your foot length correctly:
Stand on a piece of paper so that your heels only lightly touched behind the wall (doors, cabinet sides, etc.). If you press your heel hard against the wall, the measurement will be wrong.
The weight of the body should be transferred to the leg being measured.
Hold a pencil strictly vertical, do not get it under your fingers!
Mark lines near the thumb and second finger, draw a line along the wall. Measure the maximum distance between the marks with a ruler. Measure both feet as size may vary.
Ready ski sets
In our online store you can choose and buy, consisting of cross-country skis, poles, bindings, boots and ski bundles.
We have prepared for you several options on skis from the Russian manufacturer STC (Sports Technology Center). You can choose skis with or without notches. The kit includes 75 mm or NNN/SNS bindings, matching ski boots, some ski kits include additional accessories - a ski bag and a set of ski waxes.
Especially for parents of schoolchildren, we have 2 options for inexpensive Ski set Schoolboy: a simple and budget kit with 75 mm mounts and a kit with NNN mounts/ SNS. Both ski sets are perfect for physical education at school, as well as just for ski trips and skiing in winter.
If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.
There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.
Ski selection
Still plastic...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)
What skis to choose for a beginner?
First, about prices. Racing skis that stand at the top of the range of well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training then you will understand what you need and where to go. The exception is if you have a lot of weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and lower price.
Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, intended for fans. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their rigidity. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for a long time. long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and track preparation require skiing. different requirements. Therefore, in the world of cross-country skiing, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve best glide under certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because the skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.
Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.
There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. A regular skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.
How to choose skis
As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis(ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com): |
The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating the picture will be different, because they should not have maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):
That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.
A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).
You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.
So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.
The course of action may be as follows:
1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.
2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.
3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For the classics correct definition stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote "A short course of discipline Skiing" RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the binding (meaning about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should be in contact with the floor. "In practice, this is easy to check - one person stands on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you stand on both skiing, then the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block.If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor.Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor.Check one person can do it with a sheet of paper, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the block.
If conditions do not allow this method to be applied, then the stiffness can be approximately determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).
Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.
For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.
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Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (I mean soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)
Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".
Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:
- The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
- At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
(This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)
4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.
There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.
6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:
The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and power load carry mainly laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.
Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.
If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.
Choice of ski boots
If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways protection of expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.Choice of ski poles
Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.
If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings, which were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.
Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.
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Ski waxing
First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear back(!!!) skis.)Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.
If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember good words his wife ... In short, you need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with your feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.
In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.
Ski waxes
Lubricants are available different types. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.
From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.
For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.
Ski waxes
Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.
For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.
Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).
Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).
In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:
- Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
- The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.
Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes
Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.
- Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
- Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
- Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
- Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
- Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
- Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
- Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
- A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
- Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
- Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.
Additional ski accessories
Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.
Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.
How to store skis
Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.Simplified ski lubrication technologies
You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins when primary processing skis or when lubricated for heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.
Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.
One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.
What ski wax to buy for ski preparation
Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.Minimum.
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Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:
3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.
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Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).
Sufficient.
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Advanced.
This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.
