Do-it-yourself hunting skis from aspen. How to choose the right hunting skis. Materials for manufacturing

Many successfully make themselves good skis. The material for them is usually a strong straight-grained birch. Such trees are most often found in dry, high places.

Wood must be harvested winter time when the movement of juices in the tree is suspended. The tree must be cleaned of bark, as it interferes with the drying of the wood and promotes decay. then the tulka harvested along the length of the skis is sawn or split into bars. in the bars from which skis are made, the annual layers should be located in arcs towards the sliding surface.

Bars 5 cm thick are tied at the ends with planks, and a spacer about 5-6 cm thick is pushed into the middle. In this state, the bars are dried in a cool place so as not to tear for 15-20 days. After the bars are dry enough, a ski pattern is applied to them. All excess wood is roughed off, and then planed with a sherhebel.

After that, they begin to bend the ends of the skis. their socks are somewhat burned and within 40-60 minutes are steamed into hot water the water must be very hot all the time, for which two or three stones heated on fire are placed in a tub or tub every 15-20 minutes.

The ends of the skis are bent on a special block that gives the bend the desired profile. The steamed ends of the skis are fixed on the block with the help of clamps or strips and a rope. In this form, the skis are dried in a non-hot place, for example, under the ceiling, for 5-6 days.

dried skis are removed from the block and finally finished. chamfering on the upper plane of the skis is carried out using a humpback planer or a semicircular chisel. on the lower sliding surface, a semicircular or square groove is selected. it is made 4-5 cm deep and 2 cm wide.

The toe strap on the hunting golits is attached in the same way. as well as sport skiing. but the center of gravity should be approximately in the middle of the foot so that the backs of the skis always outweigh. This is very necessary when walking on soft snow, when it is necessary that the skis be easily controlled and that the hunter move silently through the bushes, the skis, finally finished with cycles and glass skins, must be soaked with hot resin. in extreme cases, the upper surface of the skis can be left white, but then it must be soaked with hot drying oil.

The length and width of hunting skis depend on the nature of the area where you have to use the skis, the hunter's body weight along with the suit and necessary equipment and, finally, the nature of the snow cover.
in order for skiing while hunting to be easy, the pressure on soft snow should not exceed 0.3 kgf / dm2, on medium-density snow - 0.35 kgf / dm2 and on dense snow - 0.4 kgf / dm2.

For right choice the type of skis and their sizes depending on the total mass (the body of the hunter plus clothes and equipment for hunting in the steppe, in the forest-steppe and in the forest is given in the table.

weight,	Dimensions, mm (Fig. 1)
kg	D	E	AND	Z	AND	TO	L	M	ABOUT	P
skis of the 1st type - steppe
65-80	1900	950	850	300	750	110	5	100	35	40
85-100	2250	1125	1000	300	950	-	-	-	-	-
skis of the 2nd type - forest-steppe
65-80	1900	950	850	300	750	135	10	115	40	50
85-100	2100	1050	950	300	850	-	-	-	-	-
skis of the 3rd type - forest
65-80	1800	900	775	300	725	150	10	130	45	55
85-100	2000	1000	875	300	825	-	-	-	-	-

The snow cover during the winter can be very different in terms of density, so it is useful for every hunter to have skis of two sizes for himself - one is narrower and the other is wider. while the snow is loose, you can use wider skis, and when the snow is compacted, narrower ones.

Every hunter or lover of winter tourism knows how hard it is to walk on virgin snow even on wide hunting skis. If we take into account the mass of equipment (backpack, gun, supplies), it turns out that the supporting area of \u200b\u200bskis for loose snow should be 2.5 - 3 times larger than that of ordinary ones.

Many hunters, especially from the Russian North, successfully make homemade skis from straight birch.

Wood should be harvested in winter, when the movement of juices has stopped in the tree. The tree is cleaned from the bark, a sprat is made along the length of the skis. The tulka is sawn, split into bars five centimeters thick.

With the help of planks, the bars are tied, a spacer about six centimeters thick is inserted into the middle part. After that, the bars are sent to dry for twenty days. Drying should take place in a cool place.

When the bars dry out, future skis are painted on them, the excess wood is ground down, and then planed with a sherhebel.

For bending the ends, the following method is used. Socks are burned a little, then they are steamed in boiling water for about an hour. The ends are bent on a special block. Steamed and bent ends are fixed directly on the block with straps, ropes or clamps. After that, the skis must be dried in a cool place for six days.

Hunting skin skis must fully comply with the requirements for strength, flexibility, and breadth. It helps a lot to cover skis with skin taken from the legs of an elk, horse or deer. Of such kind hunting skis are called kitty or kamus. Experienced hunters have long noticed that horse or deer skin has excellent driving characteristics. As for strength, here elk skins are beyond competition, in terms of noiselessness and softness, the skins of reindeer and red deer are the champion.

A ski with a glued skin becomes much stronger in bending, but it does not become much heavier. Before gluing the skins, the skis are covered with two layers of glue, then dried and another layer is applied. After that, wet skins can be pulled onto the ski, rolled over the growth of the bristles with a roller, squeezing out excess glue. The skin must be completely level. The next step is winding the ski, which can be done with twine or a bandage. So the camus is glued to the sides as tightly as possible.

After drying the ski, the twine or bandage is removed, and the excess pieces of skin along the edges of the skis are cut off with a blade. As for glues for gluing skins, epoxy BF glue is quite suitable, but it is still better to use wood glue with the addition of a small amount of acetic acid, which makes the glue water resistant.

November 13, 2013 | Skis for hunting - how to make your own skis and snowshoes

If someone is not yet accustomed to the variety of models of skis and snowshoes that exists at all hunting exhibitions and still claims that self-made is always better (well, maybe intentionally does not want to live on everything ready or does not have to funds), he can once again familiarize himself with the time-tested descriptions of the design of classic hunting skis and snowshoes.

Skis for a hunter are of great importance. They must be strong, light, resilient, have the right move and the ability to keep the hunter on the surface of the snow cover. In areas with deep snow they are essential Skis good quality can be made by choosing a rational design and type of skis. For the manufacture of skis, spruce, aspen, ash, mountain ash, maple are used. The wood must be straight-grained, without rot and without through (“moving”) branches. You need to take the butt. The ridge is cut about 2 m long. Blanks can be made at any time of the year, but preferably at the end of summer.

First, the blocks are pierced. Plates 30-40 mm thick are cut out of them, and skis are already made from the plates. So that the skis do not lead in the future, they need to be planed strictly in layers.

The size of the skis must correspond to the height and weight of the hunter; it also depends on the snow cover. In loose snow, 1 kg of the hunter's weight should account for 50 cm2 of support area. With a harder snow cover, the area can be reduced to 40-45 cm2. Skis are usually made no longer than the height of the hunter and no lower than his shoulders. But most prefer short skis, somewhat below the shoulder, as they are more maneuverable in thickets, more comfortable on the slopes. The width (in the middle part of the ski) is taken equal to the distance between the maximum divorced thumb and index (or middle) fingers, that is, 180-220 mm. To prevent skis from scooping snow, their width at the toe should be 30-40 mm greater than the width at the heel. The thickness under the foot, under the cargo area, is taken on average 11-14 mm. This is for skis glued with skins. For regular skis this size should be increased by 3-5 mm. At the front end, the thickness of the skis is brought to 5-8 mm, at the front fold 3-7 mm, at the back 2-6 mm (the dimensions and contour of the skis are shown in Fig. 1). A hole Ø 6-8 mm is drilled at the front end of the skis. It is useful for transporting and converting skis into sleds.

Rice. 1 Hunting skis. Dimensions in mm. A - top view, B - side view. The circled numbers (5.3-5, etc.) refer to skis with skins, the numbers without a circle (8.4-7, etc.) refer to ordinary skis.

The bend of skis is made in the machine. It is shown in fig. 2. Both skis are slightly heated over the fire and tucked into the machine, giving them a curve. At the same time, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the bend is correct, since there will be no normal course when skewed. The skis tucked into the machine must be steamed with boiling water, and then heated strongly over the stove, and then taken out to the cold.

Rice. 2 Skis in the machine. The board (1) is inserted into the machine after the ends of the skis are bent.

You can bend the ends of the skis by first making a 1 mm thick cross cut. Before bending, it is smeared with glue and an insert of veneer is inserted inside, cut out in the shape of the end of the ski (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3 Insert in the toe of the ski.

When the skis have cooled down, they are removed from the machine, inspected and proceed to mark the bindings. Fasteners are installed in such a way that rear end skis when walking gave a greater draft than the front. To do this, find the center of gravity of the ski, mark it with a line perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the ski, then retreat 30-40 mm towards the toe and draw a line parallel to the first. This will be the toe line, that is, the line of the beginning of the attachment. You can use standard semi-rigid mounts.

Before installing the bindings, the skis are treated, tarred or waxed (paraffin). The heated ski is poured with wax (paraffin) and rubbed. If the wax hardens on the ski, it is heated again and so on until the tree is saturated. It is desirable to cover the upper part with an oil-resin varnish.

In places where you often have to climb steep slopes, skis are used. Camus is the skin taken from the lower part of the leg of an elk, deer, reindeer, horse; the skin of a seal can also be used as a skin. Camus is glued on lower part skis and it becomes flexible and at the same time more durable, resistant to wet snow, which does not stick to them.

The manufacturing technology of these skis is the same as conventional ones, only the thickness decreases.

Rice. 4 Placement of skin plates on the lower plane of the ski.

Rice. 5 Skin fold on ski: 1 - ski, 2 - skin.

Soaked skin plates are selected so that their more shaggy edges lie towards the middle of the sliding surface, and smoother ones - towards the sides (Fig. 4). Then sewn with kapron threads. The size of the skin should be slightly over size skis (with the expectation of a bend; see Fig. 5).

For gluing skins, you can use BF glue or epoxy-based glue, but carpentry glue with a small addition of acetic acid is preferable (it makes the glue waterproof). A camus is applied to the ski lubricated with glue, after which it must immediately be rolled with a roller in the direction of the hair until excess glue comes out and the camus is completely leveled. Then the ski is wrapped with a bandage or braid so that the skin on the sides sticks well and does not warp.

If you have to hunt in mountainous places or hilly areas, and you do not have skins, you can make a simple stop, which is shown in fig. 6. I choose the width of it according to the width of the ski. It is desirable to make an emphasis from non-ferrous metal. If necessary, it can always be folded back onto the ski. You can use standard canopies by sawing out the teeth. The hinge of the canopy should be regularly lubricated and monitored so that it does not clog or rust.

Rice. 6 An emphasis for a normal ski. Dimensions in mm. 1 - ski, 2 - movable part of the stop.

Under the foot, on the cargo area, stick microporous rubber. She, shrinking and unclenching, does not allow the snow to be compressed under the foot.

Camus skis should not be brought into a warm room in winter. Skis should be stored tied in pairs on spacers, suspended in a dry, ventilated place.

Onishchenko V.

Canadian skiing

The most convenient for a hunter are skis of the usual sliding type, of relatively short length, much wider than sports skiing, with a strongly curved toe. The underside of the ski is sometimes lined with an elk or deer skin taken from the legs of an animal. This is done to facilitate the ascent uphill, because. upholstery hair prevents the ski from sliding backwards; such upholstery makes the ski more comfortable, but heavier both in weight and in motion.

At present, interest is awakening in non-slip skis, which are not common and little known in our country. The most perfect type of such skis are those of the Indians of the northern part of America, known as "Canadian". They are an elongated wooden hoop interlaced with a mesh of straps. You can’t slide on such skis, but you have to walk, raising your legs, as in normal walking.

In order to give an idea of the shape and size of skis, I give a drawing depicting a ski. The dimensions are taken according to the measurement of the skis that are now at my disposal. They are branded as "Maine model 12 x 48 No. 70" made in the North American United States. 12x48 - ski dimensions (width-length) in inches (d uym \u003d 2.54 cm).

Rice. 7 "a" and "b" - front and rear wooden crossbars. "o" - a hole in the net.

The place occupied by the foot is shaded. In the lower figure - attaching the ski to the leg.

The rim of the ski and the crossbars are apparently made of ash. The rim has a section of 7/8x3/4 inches, its tail ends are connected with rivets. The mesh is woven from "pulled" raw-matt straps, varnished, apparently to protect against soaking in wet weather, just like the wooden parts. The holes in the mesh are so large that it is difficult for a finger to pass through them.

The ski is tied to the leg with straps, and the leg is located on the ski so that its toe is above the hole "O", without touching the front crossbar "a". This is necessary to facilitate walking. When the ski moves forward, the heel rises from the ski, and the toe drops slightly into the “O” hole, so that the ski is in contact with the sole of the foot only with a thick twisted belt passing directly behind the “O” hole and serving as the main support for it when lowering the leg. This way of tying the skis allows you to walk at a normal pace without raising your legs too high. When lifting the leg, the toe of the ski, as being lighter, rises up, and the heavier tail drags along the snow, preventing the ski from spinning on the leg.

There are two straps for tying skis. One ordinary one, covering the toe of the foot, is passed through the mesh cells closest to the hole "O", and the other, passed into the same cells, covers the rear one. In order to prevent this belt from moving out, another strap is attached to it, passing through the instep of the leg.

Admirers of Canadian skis tested their suitability for various purposes. It turned out that these skis are very convenient in cases where fast walking is not required, since the walking speed on them is equal to the usual walking speed. With the skill, you can run, this slightly increasing the speed.

These skis are more convenient for skiing in rugged and forested areas, because. make it possible to climb, descend and, if desired, stop on steep slopes. In the forest, they, in view of their short length, allow free passage between trees and bushes. Turns on such skis are made very quickly, easily and almost in one place.

On such skis, due to their agility, small size and the uselessness of sticks, so that the hands are free all the time, various work can be done. I know that they were successfully used in measuring and counting forests, in setting up snow shields along the railway line, and so on.

The advantages of Canadian skis include their low weight: the pair I have weighs 2.25 kg with straps. When skis are not needed, they can be tied and thrown over the shoulder. With a small weight and length, they do not interfere with walking at all.

In snow, even loose, this ski almost does not sink; the snow is pressed down by the net and almost does not fall on the ski, does not stuff under the foot, interfering with walking.

The disadvantages of skis include their weakness in those places where the crossbars are hammered into the rim. This place needs to be strengthened. Almost all ski breakages were precisely in the places where the crossbar was fastened to the rim, but it should be noted that in most cases the skis broke in light snow, when stones, etc. were felt, i.e. under conditions generally unsuitable for any kind of skiing.

A big drawback is the lack of literature about Canadian skiing in Russian. To distribute them, it is necessary to study the question of the types of skis suitable for certain purposes, tk. There are several types of Canadian skis that differ in small details from each other (there are, for example, skis without a tail). It is necessary to find out the most suitable wood species for skiing; processing mesh straps so that they are stronger, do not get wet and do not stretch; find out the most practical way to attach the ski to the leg, as there are small, but perhaps important differences.

All this has probably been known in America for a long time, but for us, due to the lack of literature, it sometimes presents minor, but annoying, ambiguities, the solution of which has to be approached by experience.

A skier with a vertically raised arm.

Now tightly tie the bars at the ends, put spacers (8-10 cm) between them and leave to dry in a hot place for a week. After drying, give the bars the shape of skis. To lift your ski toes, warm them up with a blowtorch or oven, or soak them in hot water until you can bend them and secure them in the block. After making sure that the ends of the skis are bent evenly, dry them for 3-4 days on the oven.

After drying the skis, proceed to processing. On the bottom of the skis, cut a semi-circular groove for better glide from the heel to the rise of the ski bend. Gutter width 12-15 mm, depth 2 mm.

Thoroughly sand, coat with varnish, tar or resin the entire surface of the skis.

For good glide treat the underside of the ski with resin. First, heat it by the stove, then cover it with wood resin and heat it again. Avoid charring the ski and make sure that the resin is evenly absorbed. After impregnation with resin, the sliding surface should darken and become dark brown. Insert a spacer between the still heated skis and tie at the ends, and upper part and rub the sides of the skis so that the snow does not stick to them. And on the cargo, on which the leg will be located, stuff a piece of thin iron or smooth rubber, then snow will not stick to the site.

Any winter equipment should be carefully prepared before use, but this is especially true for hunting skis. They help to move faster and easier on the snow. It is very important not only to choose the right skis by material and size, but also correctly fix mounts.

You will need

hunter's skis, mount

Instruction

When installing, remember that they must firmly hold any shoes, whether boots, felt boots, boots, high boots. In this case, the control should be easy, and the person should easily release the foot from the fasteners. To achieve simultaneous strong fixation and easy release from skis if necessary, you will have to work out well at home. In cold snow you won't have time to study ski construction.

Ski bindings different types: plain, soft and semi-rigid. There are also hard mounts, but in this case the boot is screwed to the ski, which is not suitable for hunting skis. Therefore, which type of fastener from the first three is up to you. If you have the opportunity, try different types of fasteners and settle on the one that suits you best. A simple mount is a strap made of leather, canvas, or other durable materials. It is refueled from both sides in the slot of the support platform on. The foot in the shoe is simply inserted into the resulting loop, additionally tightened if necessary, and the ends are fixed in the side grooves. Ski bindings come in different types: simple, soft and semi-rigid.

There are also hard mounts, but in this case the boot is screwed to the ski, which is not suitable for hunting skis. Therefore, which type of fasteners to choose from the first three is up to you. If you have the opportunity, try different types of fasteners and settle on the one that suits you best. A simple mount is a strap made of leather, canvas, or other durable materials. It is refueled from both sides in the slot of the support platform. The foot in the shoe is simply inserted into the resulting loop, additionally tightened if necessary, and the ends are fixed in the side grooves.

Soft mounts differ from simple topics that they have an extra strap. Insert your foot into the main loop, and wrap the other strap around the back of your foot, just above the heel. Fasten the strap so that it does not fall off the heel and holds the ski well.

With semi-rigid fastening, instead of the main loop, special metal plates. Rest the boot in them and fix it on top with a sling. Instead of a rear belt, a cable spring is used. Pull it to the desired length with the built-in lever, then lock it in front of the toe plates.

Sources:

hunting ski mount

hunting skis very different from conventional skis and appearance, and by design. These differences are due to their functions. After all, they must not only carry the hunter, but also withstand a significant load without falling into the snow, easily slide forward and not slide back, even on a steep slope, they must be light and easy to move.

Instruction

Therefore, hunting skis are made of wood, birch, spruce, maple. hunting skis much wider than regular skis (can be 22 cm wide) and much shorter (should not be taller than the hunter).

Camus is located with a certain slope of the hair (along the skis), it is kamus that prevents hunting skis from sliding back on the slopes and helps to move forward easily. However, kamus skis get wet, become heavy and uncontrollable. Therefore, some hunters prefer combined skis. In such, it is covered only with a strip of camus.

Before hunting, skis-holits must be coated with a special ointment. It usually consists of three parts of melted wax and one part of a mixture of stearin and fish. However, experienced hunters make ointments for different temperature conditions.

Ointment with a thaw to -10 ° C is made from three parts of paraffin, two parts of brown wax and one part of tar. An ointment for a lower temperature contains three parts of wax, one part of stearin, one part of fish oil, a small amount of tar and rosin. Before hunting, you must heat the sliding surface skis-heads, rub it with ointment, and then polish it to a shine.

Another device will make it easier to hunt for. We are talking about an aluminum stopper that will prevent bare skis from rolling down a steep slope and help you easily overcome it. An aluminum plate 15 cm long and equal to the width skis, round on one side and roll into a tube on the other.

Insert a stainless wire into the tube, fix it in the form of a bracket on the heels of the skis. When driving on level ground, the brake plates are fixed with latches, when lifting, the latches are released and the plates prevent the skis from sliding backwards.

Ski mounts also need to be prepared for winter. For hunting skis, it should be strong and, at the same time, it should be easy to release the leg if necessary, for example, when falling. Some hunters specially sheathe ski mounts with thick fabric stocking bags. Very comfortable, snow does not get into shoes, skis They don't weigh down and are easy to remove.

Sources:

Ski preparation and maintenance

Skiing is a great recreation and an exciting sport that is impossible without special equipment - ski poles, the skis themselves and, of course, the bindings with which the skis are attached to your shoes. There are three main types ski bindings suitable for different types of riding, and if soft mounts practically not used by skiers, then hard and semi-rigid mounts are used everywhere, and every skier needs to learn how to fix them on their boots.

Instruction

If you do not have special ski shoes, metal semi-rigid shoes will do. mounts in the form of brackets that are attached to the skis. The boot is held in the bracket with the help of special straps and buckles. It is enough to properly tighten the straps, fasten the buckles, and mounts ready. But their disadvantage lies in the lack of strength and big weight.

Best for skiing and learning to ski hard mounts, which are like a solid metal frame and are put on special ones. Picking up such mounts, make sure they match your ski boots, and also check their quality and strength - all spikes must be strong, there should be no cracks in the metal, and the shackle mounts must hold the boot firmly. In extreme cases, the bow can be adjusted additionally or supplemented with rubber pads.

Balance the ski on a flat surface, such as the edge of a straightedge, to determine its center of gravity. Place the mount on the ski so that the front edge of the brace is located on the center of gravity line, and the longitudinal axis of the boot in the mount, passing between the big and index toes and the back point of the heel, coincides with the same axis of the ski.

Putting the mount on the ski, install the boot into it and check whether it sits firmly enough in the mount and whether the side edges of the bracket fit snugly enough to the welts of the boot. To check if the heel is moving away from the main line of the ski, tighten the front screw mounts and insert your shoe into it.

Make sure everything is in the correct position, and screw the binding with the remaining screws, and then make holes for the spikes in the sole of the boot. If you have plastic rather than wooden skis, fill the hole with epoxy or BF glue before screwing in the screws.

When everything is ready, lift the boot with the ski attached to it. If the front side of the ski outweighs the back, you did everything right.

Materials for the manufacture of skis and skins

The main material for creating skis is wood. For camus, you will additionally need a skin. Requirements for wood are:

strength;
elasticity;
flexibility;
ease.

Birch, aspen, cork, Manchurian walnut, Amur lilac, willow, Christmas tree have such qualities. You can take any of the proposed ones, but it is important that the wood is straight. Do-it-yourself plywood hunting skis can also be made, but plywood must be taken of the highest class.

A similar material is used for skins, but they also need a skin. It should be taken from the shin of an elk, horse, deer, wapiti. On the leg area of these animals there is an elastic pile. With it, movement on snowy slopes and loose snow will be convenient.

Wood harvesting

Before you make skis for hunting, you need to prepare the main material - wood. Wood harvesting is done in winter. During this period, the moisture in it freezes, which makes it easier to work with wood. Although the craftsmen suggest making blanks in August, because at this time the heat is already subsiding, and it is more comfortable to work with wood than at sub-zero temperatures.

Note! On the selected tree there should be no traces of rot, branches, especially small ones.

You can get high-quality material by following these steps:

Remove bark.
Saw the deck into boards, thickness 50 mm, length according to the estimated length of the snowshoes.
Tie the boards and insert a spacer in the middle.
Dry for 3 weeks in a cool place.
After drying, apply the contour of the ski and remove excess.

Sizing

Homemade wooden hunting skis must fit in size, for this you need to know how to determine it. To do this, you need to know the weight of the one who will walk on them. The rule works here: 1 kg of weight corresponds to 50 cm² for each ski, the length is no more than the height of the one for whom they are created.

Calculation example:

The hunter weighs 90 kg, his height is 1.75.
With an eye on the formula, the ski area for him is 4500 cm².
Skis for a hunter should be 1.7 m long and 26 cm wide. If the movement is planned along the plain, then the length may be slightly longer, for the mountains - shorter.

Another sizing option does not involve calculations. More specifically:

set skis with toes up, their length does not exceed the height of the arm extended forward;
width is the distance between the index and thumb;
thickness is the distance between the ring and middle fingers of the hand at maximum dilution, this parameter will need to be brought up to 8 mm on flat areas, and 5 mm on the bend.

bulge

You need to make 2 bends: front and back. On initial stage wood can be bent by heating, roasting and steaming. After that, each is placed in a special bending machine. It is required to ensure that there is no skew, otherwise the material will be damaged.

Steaming is convenient to carry out when the ski is already fixed in the machine. This will help you get the most best result. You need to cool in the cold, but this can only be done after a successful bend. When the material has completely cooled down under the necessary conditions, it is required to inspect for distortions, if any, then the skiing will be incorrect.

Hole marking for fastening straps

The next step in the technology of creating homemade skis is marking the holes for the attachment that fixes the leg. Stages:

Put the ski on edge and lift it in the place where the leg will be fixed.
The ski will stand at a 45⁰ angle to the floor, nose up.
Put a mark on the point where the ski reaches the specified position, and draw a line across the width of it.
spend one more parallel line, retreating 4 cm from the first mark towards the bow.
On both lines, find the middle and attach a fist so that it is located in the middle of the central marks.
Make marks where the fist corresponds to the lines drawn earlier. These 4 points will be the holes for the fasteners.

It remains only to burn the marked holes and connect them with deep grooves. They are needed for tight packing of belts in a homemade product.

Making skins

If it is decided to make kamus, then the next step is the preparation of the skin. Steps:

Remove the remaining fat and meat from the skin.
Stretch dry.
Cut out skins according to the size of the ski with a margin of 1-2 cm for turning.
Soak the skins in water.
Fold to each other with fleecy edges.
Sew with strong thread.
Dry. When gluing, the skins may be slightly damp.

Gluing

After drying, the camus needs to be glued, this should be done carefully, because it is this detail that does not allow sliding on the snow. For gluing, you can take epoxy or wood glue. Sufficiently high-quality adhesive composition can be made on their own. This requires the skin of a fish. Manufacturing process:

you need a past spawning chum salmon or catfish;
remove the skin from the fish, remove the scales of fat, soak in water;
after soaking the skin, wind it on a wooden stick with a roll, wrap it with a cloth soaked in water;
hang over a stove or coals;
steam until a thick gluten is obtained.

When gluing, the composition is first applied to the skin. The first layer is allowed to dry, then the second is applied. Next, the skin is applied to the wooden blank and pressed. It is convenient to roll the product at home with a roller. You need to do this until the skin is completely smoothed out.

To fix the result of the work, you should wrap the skin with a bandage - this guarantees a strong grip with the sides. It remains to dry in a cool room with good ventilation.

Ski bindings

It is correct to use elk leather belts as fasteners, they should be pre-fried and smoked. The straps are fixed in the holes that were prepared in advance. For this, screws are used.

Advice! For such purposes, you can not take hard skin. Doing so is not worth it, because it creaks at low temperatures, which will make hunting problematic.

Making a ski pole

A ski pole is a must. It is made from the same type of wood as the ski. In its design there are devices necessary for the hunter:

claw and ring - they will make walking on fragile ice safe;
shovel - with its help it is convenient to clear the snow;
a measure for determining the depth of snow, for this you will need to make marks along the length every 5 cm.

Storage

Skis are used only in winter. The key to long-term use is proper storage. This applies to both factory and home-made models. Rules:

Link with each other.
Hang on a hook or nail.
The room should be with normal humidity and the possibility of ventilation.
It must be placed so that water does not get into the fasteners.

Advice! If the fasteners are loose, then you need to unscrew the screws and pour epoxy glue, then put the screws in place. Skis should be checked before each use.

The production of hunting skis is a feasible task, but it requires a lot of time and patience. Their quality is affected by the choice of material and the correct implementation of all the above manufacturing steps.