What are "warm" skis and "cold" skis? How to choose flat walking skis What is the difference between warm skis and cold skis

Tips and Instructions

Introduction

Below is the text, which is a generalization of amateur experience. No more. Consider this as an invitation to discussion.

Part 1

Does plastic dry?

The wettability of plastic by paraffin is a phenomenon in the thinnest boundary layer. The presence of contaminants, oxidation can interfere with the contact of plastic and paraffin. The paraffin film will not be continuous, which means it will not be strong. It is often recommended to scrape new skis immediately. This is an unnecessarily harsh method. New skis may be fuzzy, may be worn with greasy hands, and will not take paraffin. However, the store structure is more good than bad, and it is desirable to keep it. There is a gentle method of updating the sliding surface (SP) - the use of a thin steel brush. Then wash the skis with service paraffin and carry out basic training.

Pile

The joint venture of the new ski is smooth, beautiful, the structure is visible, but ... it doesn’t roll at all. Perhaps they missed the weather. But the most likely cause is lint. Cheap (and expensive!) ski plastic can be covered with thin elongated plastic particles when applying the structure. The edges of the grooves of the new structure are uneven, torn. Alas, it is impossible to feel the character of the ski if there is pile on the joint venture. In order for the skis to go in their weather, the pile must be cleaned.

Options for action:

Alternate treatment of skis with soft and hard paraffins, cleaning rotary brushes. The best brush for cleaning lint is steel very fine racing (very thin steel, very expensive).
Ride, apply paraffins and ride. Skiing can take a while, sometimes after 500 km.
Cycle new skis. You can gently remove the pile with a razor scraper, or you can completely demolish the store structure.
Polishing with a synthetic dishcloth without abrasive chips can help - an analogue of branded fibertex. A combination of methods works.

Ski profile

For Atomic they write that they have a Worldcup Speed profile, for Fisher - Worldcup Skate, and so each manufacturer has its own words. So what is it? Modern skis can have different widths at the toe and heel, in the block. The distribution of the width of the ski along its length is called the profile. It came from skiing. Skis narrowed in the block have a “fitted” profile. These skis are more comfortable to push on a hard, icy track. Now he has changed skating, everyone began to worry about directional stability when rolling on one leg. Appeared "arrow-shaped" profile. But they often write one thing, but if you measure a ski with a ruler, you will see something else. In any case, the profile is not a reason to prefer a certain brand of skis. After all, it is not the profile itself that works, but the combination of torsion stiffness - profile. If the toe of the ski is made soft, then it makes no sense to load it when repulsing, it must be narrowed. In the place where the power plate of the ski, which determines its resistance to twisting and rigidity, begins, it is reasonable to expand the ski. We get the "cobra" Rossignol and Worldcup Speed Atomic. And Fisher does the same. Further, depending on the internal structure, on the relative rigidity of the central part of the ski, it is advantageous to narrow it or leave it flat ... That is, any top ski profile is good. It corresponds to the plot, the plot corresponds to the weather/ski. Madshus produces skis with three different plots for different runs and their respective profiles.

How to measure the immeasurable?

It is very interesting to find out how different skis interact with snow. It is not possible to directly peep the process, models are built. Skis are measured in the laboratory. The problem is that it's hard to model everything. For example, a skier rolls on one ski, applying his weight close to the heel of the boot, and pushes somewhere near the toe of the boot. That is, during each step, it rolls from heel to toe. In the laboratory, the snow was replaced with a solid base, the point of application of the skier's weight was fixed. When talking about a ski plot, you need to understand that this is just a model. And measuring skis for soft snow on hard ground is wrong. But it's easier.

What are "warm" skis and "cold" skis?

The ski plot is how the ski distributes the weight of the skier model onto the snow model (solid base). The most obvious characteristic of a ski, which determines the glide in different conditions. There is a B-shaped plot, typical for frosty skis, there is a C-shaped plot for warm weather. Mentally put the letters B and C on their side and you will understand what we are talking about. The difference is in the sharpness of the pressure peaks and in the length of the pad. The B-plot has long, smeared pressure peaks under the anterior and rear parts skis, evenly distributes the weight of the skier. This is good for frost and soft skiing. The C-shaped has sharp pressure peaks, which reduces the phenomenon of "suction" in wet conditions, it is convenient on a hard track.

Skis with a combined diagram of the sun are common. The anterior pressure hump is sharp (C), while the posterior one is smooth (B). There is also an A - diagram. Very long block, ski as a spring, toe and heel are very hard. In order to make skis with different plots, the ski design is changed. Madshus makes skis in three designs (three different diagrams): SC, R, HP. On soft, normal and hard snow, respectively.

Fisher releases skis of the 610th and 115th designs for soft and dense tracks, Atomic simply writes warm or cold (warm or cold) plot. Not to be confused with plastic and structure! The letters on the sticker w or c - the type of diagram, due to the design of the ski (warm, cold), y or d - the type of plastic (warm, cold). For non-sport shop skis, warm plastic is applied to a warm structure. In the sports shop there are cold ones by design, but with warm plastic and vice versa. Those. a ski with any diagram can have warm or cold plastic (graphite content depends) and a huge variety of structures on the sliding surface. It is not surprising that professionals carry trunks with 20 pairs of skis. It's hard for fans too. After all, it is impossible to change the design of a ski with any lubricant, but you want to go fast both in frost and in spring ... Talk about the "universality" of Fisher and the "narrow range" of Madshus are marketing tricks. More than better manufacturer masters the technology, the “sharper” he “sharpenes” his skis for specific conditions of use. You have to have a lot of skis. Different brands. The specialization of skis according to the type of plot is a correct and inevitable process.

What is a "suck"?

When you try to ski on “cold” skis in warm weather, it is noticeable how, during acceleration, the ski starts to slow down, sticks. Although at the lowest speed, sliding can even be perfect. This inhibits the viscosity of excess water created by friction. They fight this in the same way as in the floats of seaplanes (they use a redan) - by reducing the contact area. To reduce the area of contact between the joint venture and the water film, skis with a special plot, structures, and knurling are used. The purpose of fluorine lubricants is the same, but when a lot of water is formed, the lubricant cannot cope.

Structure

The structure is a three-dimensional drawing, cut out or extruded on the joint venture. Depending on the properties of the snow, it is designed to divert or retain water formed from friction under the ski. In warm conditions, there is an excess of water, in frosty conditions - a deficiency. Structures are linear and discontinuous, for example, of the "intermittent herringbone" type. There are several explanations for why they work. (And they work!) According to one of the options, the structure is a drainage, with the help of which water is forced out to a less loaded place in the joint venture. The wetter the snow, the deeper and longer the drainage must be to drain water from under the pressure humps. According to another explanation, the structure is "drainage in reverse." The snow under the furrow experiences less pressure than under a flat surface, does not melt, the water rushing along the ski runs into a snow island and breaks away from the SP. That is, furrows are not conductors of water, but vice versa. I think that both options correctly explain the work of different types of structures (linear and intermittent), in different weather.

The colder and drier the weather, the shallower the drainage. There are extrusion knurling for applying a frosty structure with rollers that form almost transverse dents on the joint venture (herringbone) without longitudinal grooves at all. The reverse is also true. The Super Riller from SWIX is often used on water, which cuts wide linear grooves on the joint venture. Improvement of sliding does not hinder (helps?) even the small amount of pile formed in this case.

I draw your attention to the fact that the structure does not eliminate the need for a special diagram. The possibilities of the structure are limited.

Heard many times that cold skis went to heat, and warm to frost. There is nothing surprising in this. This once again proves that the ski pattern is more significant for glide than the type of plastic and structure. Atomic's warm construction skis have sharp, short snow contact areas that help on hard skis. Rigid ski track - there was no snowfall for a long time, the ski track was rolled up. But in cold weather, precipitation is the least likely. So the warm ski rolls on hard frosty snow. Cold skis distribute the pressure more evenly over the snow, which sometimes allows you not to sink on a broken track, on fresh snow. In warm weather, precipitation is more likely than in cold weather. That's right, when choosing skis, you need to look at the density of the ski track before the temperature. Fisher should not be guided by the inscriptions plus - cold at all. The inscriptions report secondary parameters! Marking the design on the toe of the ski is necessary and it is she who has the most to do with glide! In shop skis, plus - cold is a type of plastic and structure and says nothing about the construction. One Rossignol divides its skis into S1 and S2 types depending on the density of the skiing, into dense and soft slopes. (the type of plastic is the same!) All professional skis have a distribution by design.

What is "rolling" skis?

The ones that go furthest down the hill? Or those on which it is easier to roll uphill? There is a contradiction between sliding skis downhill and skiing uphill, when the weight of the whole body is transferred to one ski. In both cases, the ski plot must match the ski/weather, despite the very different load (as well as snow density and speed). On the descent, the weight is distributed on two skis, excessive rigidity is harmful. In the rise, each ski must support the weight of the entire body. Yes, plus the power of pushing with the foot. Only a compromise is possible here, it is impossible to fully satisfy both requirements, although there are attempts. Fisher makes skis with very low initial stiffness. In process of compression rigidity increases sharply, we rest against an inflexible block. It cannot be pushed by either ½ or the full weight of the skier. And often not at all! The skis act like boards but are easy to pick up as they cover a wide range of weights. Skis go under almost everyone. But not in the best way. After all, the block should touch the snow at least when pushing with the foot. They try to make such skis in the sports shop. Based on the barcode of each ski, you can find out its stiffness in kilograms! This does not mean that they will suit all skiers with this weight and for all conditions. There are also preferences in technology, there is a specialization of skis according to the conditions of use. The amateur proportion between the stiffness of the ski and the weight of the skier is 0.9-1.0. For professionals, it can be 1.1 (For the pros, this hard pair is far from the only one). In any case, the coefficient depends not so much on the level of training of the athlete, but on the density of the track and its relief. There's no point in choosing hard skis for the amateur track. (There is an exception - spring races on coarse-grained snow.) And too soft skis will not allow you to easily roll into climbs. Fisher is the best brand for the amateur who can only afford one pair of skis and chooses them without equipment, by touch. The Fisher PLUS 610 design with NIS has been a bestseller in recent seasons. A lot of people prefer the old RCS to the new RCS Carbonlite. For the Atomic Worldcup, the cold design is recommended as the only pair, as the most versatile.

How many skis should an amateur skier taking part in competitions have?

If your competitions are held in the same region, then skis with the following qualities are required:

"Asphalt" skiing on little snow. As a rule, former military, well-deserved.
"Medium frosty", -1° -10°, soft track. B plot.
"Warm" for hard snow. The choice between super hard skis with BC-plot and standard (your weight) skis with C-plot. In both cases, skis are better fitted. JV with a fine structure. With additional knurling, they will come in handy on water and coarse-grained snow, without it - on a very dense, rolled up ski track - “concrete”, frost.
“Frosty”, colder than -12 °, on a prepared ski track of medium density, without loose snow and “concrete”. Such skis must be carefully selected according to the weight of the skier. Indeed, if in “warm” skis a change in load leads to a change in the position of short pressure humps, and may not worsen glide at all, then in “frosty” skis the shape of the humps may be distorted, which, in fact, makes the skis frosty. It is always more difficult to obtain a plot with flat, uniform humps than with sharp ones.

Point 2 is most in demand for amateurs, and it is advisable to duplicate it with exactly the same pair for testing lubricants. Total: 5 pairs, of which 3 are combat. It will not work to save on quantity, but on money it is possible. When buying TOP skis from the collections of past seasons, we get savings of up to 50% without losing useful properties. The plot of the old model may be better than the new one. Even extra grams of weight will not overshadow the pleasure of good work and excellent glide of skis that match the weather. You can make it a rule every year to buy a pair of last year's skis for the weather in which you rolled badly last season. It happens that the model of such and such a year is unsuccessful, the company has changed the technology, but has not fully mastered it. This was the case when Fisher switched to the CAP design. Everything is already known about last year's skis: a successful or unsuccessful model!

And of course, success is not measured by the number of medals. Only reviews from fans! The failure of your favorite company is a good reason to try other skis. There is no need to be afraid that a stale pair is obviously unsuccessful - if complex measuring devices are not used in the store, then the percentage of winnings in the lottery where rolling skis are played does not fall over time. Indeed, without checking on the snow, it is difficult to understand the nature of the ski. In this regard, the emergence NIS systems and factory filling with paraffin plays against amateurs. You can run into a professional rejection of skis that look like brand new, and they have already been tested on the ski track, especially since someone’s sports season may start earlier than yours.

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During a multi-day winter hike tourists constantly have to make many hours of ski crossings on flat and rough terrain, slide down and climb slopes of varying steepness, walk on virgin lands, trailing in the thickness of snow, reaching up to one meter. Seasoned hikers and skiers are well aware that tourist skis oh, they don’t ride or even run, but walk. Yes, yes, they do! Therefore, one should not be surprised that the speed that they are able to develop is by no means their main quality. And what is the main thing?

Much more important are reliability, maneuverability, lack of recoil and sticking (snow sticking to the "sole" of skis), as well as correct selection skis for a specific person.

How to choose hiking skis?

Tourist skis are personal sports equipment, they are selected individually, and the comfort of the entire trip, both for their owner and for the whole group, depends on how well this is done. It is generally accepted that skis should be as long as a person with an arm raised up, and sticks should reach the armpits.

But I have a different opinion. I choose skis according to the formula - height plus 10 - 15 cm. And then it becomes more convenient to manage them on descents and ascents, as well as in thickets. Sticks should be on the shoulder, because. they partially go under the snow, because, unlike a ski trip, the trip most often takes place off the beaten track. These selection rules apply to all models and types of skis, both plastic and wooden.

Useful articles:

Traditional, wooden skis

Skiing "Beskid". In Soviet times, "Beskid" - tourist skis, it was almost impossible to buy in a store. I bought them from my hands, already in a “similar” condition, and appreciated them on the first trip. Well-tarred and rubbed with silver ointment, they roll no worse than cross-country ones both through the forest and over the mountains.

Their advantages are reliability and excellent handling on the track and on the descent due to the steel edge. Passed all the Khibiny in them, I can say that better than skiing For tourism, I don't know. Their “average” width of 75 mm is also pleasing - they are not as wide as the “Forest” and not as narrow as the running ones. Of the shortcomings, perhaps, it can only be noted that during the thaw it can be sticky, like all wooden ones.

update from 12/03/2013 Still, Mayak launched the production of Beskid skis. However, they are sold only by the manufacturer under the order and prepaid. The application can be left in the group of the ski factory "VKontakte". The cost is 4500 rubles. + the cost of delivery by a transport company (for example, delivery to St. Petersburg costs 500 rubles)

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75mm
Price: approx. 4500 rub.
Recommendations: the best skis for tourism

Skis "Forest". I walked a lot on these skis and through the forest for which they are intended, and through the mountains, and through the bare endless tundra. If the thread of the route passes through the forest, then "Forest" in this case is one of the best options, especially if there is a lot of trekking. But on rough terrain they are harder. When descending, they are almost uncontrollable, so there is a chance to roll not only in front, but also sideways or backwards. The “herringbone” rise is also complicated - because of the width, “Forest” is difficult to put on edge. Because of it, problems appear when moving along the ski track - you simply do not fit in it.

I went to the "Forest" and the Pansky tundra on the Kola. On the third day, their sliding surface turned into a slab - the wood from which they are made is too soft. And one more drawback - "Forest" often burst from the side of the heel - along, along the glued layers. But, nevertheless, the "Forest" served their worthy. In the situation of shortage of "Beskid" there were no other options, except how to choose skis for tourist "Forest", there were no other options. Previously, they were produced in Novgorod, today they are made in Kirov, at the Mayak plant, as well as at the Vologda ski factory. I did not have to go to the "Forest" of the last two manufacturers. At present, this model is practically not used by the tourists I know.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 110mm
Price: 1500 - 1900 rubles.
Recommendations: hiking in the forest, fishing, hunting

Tourist skis "Tourist-Mayak". Skis "Tourist - Mayak", in fact, the same "Beskid" - a remake, but without edges. I have already tested them. I can say that the skis are good for their price - 1500 rubles. Strong enough. The correct width is 75 mm, there are three types of 180 cm, 190 cm and 200 cm. The first two “heights” are in fact 176 and 186, the last one I have not seen in stores, but it is in the Mayak price list. As well as there is a wood-plastic version of the "Tourist", which is 100 rubles. more expensive than the wooden one I use.

Skis are suitable for those who are going to buy them for one - one and a half seasons. Then, the edges of the skis will be rounded. If, of course, they survive until then at all. In general, a normal budget option.

Characteristics
Material: wood, wood-plastic
Width: 75mm
Price: 1500 - 1700 rubles.
Recommendations: for those who want to try their hand at ski tourism

Soldier or, as they are also called, army skis are another miracle of the defense industry. These are ordinary softwood touring skis, i.e. their edges wear off quickly. I had to look a little like them. I was surprised that I did not meet them less than 220 cm. Probably, the army, ordering these skis, believes that our soldiers are just grenadiers. In general, because of such a length, it is very difficult to walk through the forest in them, and when climbing like a herringbone, you step on your heels.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75mm
Price: issued free of charge to the defenders of the fatherland
Recommendations: use only when no alternatives are available

As a rule, "seasoned tourists" walk on "woods" - adherents of " old school”, noting their main advantages - the almost complete absence of returns and the absence of the need to use expensive and capricious ointments. Young people and innovators are calling for a break from the ossified tradition, believing that the future of ski tourism lies in plastic. However, my personal experience, says the opposite.

Useful articles:

Skiing "Beskid"
Skis "Forest"
Skis "Tourist"
Ski tour
Skins for skis

Hiking on plastic tourist skis

Cross-country skiing. Cross-country skis are sometimes used as tourist skis. And they are quite suitable if it is a simple hike - a weekend or a couple of days, passes through a wooded area with knurled ski tracks. Just keep in mind that if the skis are plastic, then you need an ointment for the appropriate temperature (especially an ointment from recoil), which you still need to be able to select, as well as quickly change when the weather changes. Otherwise ski trip will be remembered "not in a good way" and for a very long time.

Characteristics
Material: plastic
Width: 60-65mm
Price: from 1500 rubles.
Recommendations: You can go on short and easy hikes

Skiing. In those days, when it was impossible to buy high-quality tourist skis, mountain skis were adapted for hiking. I don't have much experience with alpine skiing. A couple of times I went to see them in Khibiny. The skis were called "Polsport". They are well managed, but, like all plastic ones, there is a danger of "not getting into the ointment." In general, it’s not bad if you carry a set of ointment from recoil and cycle with you - remove the old ointment.

My use of mountain skis in hiking ended with the fact that, crossing a hole washed by a stream, I stood with all my weight on the ski and broke it in the block. But the problems didn't end there. Deciding to use its front end, I began to rearrange the mount. But it was not there. It looks like the ski was reinforced on top with a metal plate. The screws didn't work.

Characteristics
Material: plastic and metal
Width: 70-75mm
Price: from 8000 rubles.
Recommendations: only classic alpine skis are suitable (almost not fitted), ointments for all weather conditions or skins are needed.

Tourist plastic skis with scales. This is another option for plastic touring skis. They are produced under several trademarks, for example, under the TM "Equipment". I would like to note that the scales work only on the ski track or crust, on loose snow it is of no use, but the problem with ointments is also relevant. There are several standard "sizes" - 170, 180, 190, 200 mm.

Characteristics
Material: plastic sliding surface and plastic decorative cover
Width: 70, 100 mm
Price: 3800-4500 rubles.
Recommendations: ointments and camus are needed

Manner ski-tour with skins. I only used skis and ski touring boots once, maybe I didn't taste them the first time, but I was uncomfortable. The leg is very rigid, as in ski boot. It is necessary, apparently, to work out a special step. But there are also obvious advantages: the skin holds even on a steep slope, you can forget about the "herringbone" and "ladder". The descent is almost like skiing. Well, another significant drawback is the high price of the kit.

Dmitry Ryumkin especially for

In the yard - mid-January. Snow has finally fallen everywhere where it has long been expected, and the forum of our site, as usual at this time, is filled with questions: “How to choose the right skis and which ones are better?” Answer some of these questions skiing” asked our illustrious skier, and now an expert of the Fisher company, Alexander Zavyalov.
- Alexander Alexandrovich, have you been associated with Fisher skis for a long time?

Yes, a long time ago, since 1977, i.e. for over 30 years.

Then, probably, your experience will be useful to those amateur athletes who ride a lot, in various weather conditions, and at the same time choose their own skis. Interested in the question of the preferred use of Fisher skis in the COLD and WARM temperature ranges in the Moscow region?

Here the situation is as follows. Warm and cold skis naturally have different bases. Warm base - 28th. There is a 5th base, but it is mainly for water, and the athletes of these skis usually have one pair. What is the difference in plastic? Warm skis have a higher percentage of graphite. This is done so that there is no so-called moisture infiltration, since a larger percentage of graphite creates a greater porosity of the sliding surface, which prevents moisture infiltration. In the Moscow region, athletes mainly use warm base skis due to high humidity and the fact that the slopes are almost always soft, and warm skis also have softer socks with heels. This allows the ski to glide better on soft trails. In cold skis, the percentage of graphite is less, their sliding surface is smoother and has a slightly grayish tint. The design of cold skis is more rigid, designed for frosty, and, consequently, tougher tracks, and this is done so that the ski does not collect this snow under it. In the Moscow region, the tracks are prepared mainly by light equipment - snowstorms, so we should choose warm skis.

So how, after all, with the help of Fisher skis, solve the problems of different weather conditions during the winter, and you also mentioned skiing "on the water" with the 5th base. What can you advise here?

Here the situation is as follows: if we take “warm” skis - with a 28 base (not every amateur athlete can afford to have skis that are both “warm”, and “cold”, and “super-warm” at the same time), then with the help of knurling and creating an appropriate structures can solve the problem at different temperature conditions. It is very desirable, of course, that the knurling be pressing, and not cutting. The result of knurling disappears after two or three treatments (applying-removing paraffin), and again the factory steinslip remains. On "cold" skis, Fisher has a cold joint, on "warm" skis - a universal one. Fisher skis are considered universal - you can easily close the entire season with one or two pairs when using knurling. Skis from other companies, for example, "Madshus", are also very good, but they have a narrower steinslip. National team athletes can afford to have a large number of different pairs of skis, but for amateurs with their limited financial capabilities, this is difficult.

Three years ago, when severe frosts occurred in Moscow, in which plastic skis practically did not slip, I noticed that those who were on the Fischer classic at temperatures below minus 30 degrees still rode very well. Does the Fisher company and you, as a practitioner, have any recommendations on how to prepare skis for such a frost?

It all depends on the structure of the ski - a "cold" ski should be almost smooth. In severe frost, the snow is dry, and if we put a small structure on the ski, the snow powder will fill this structure, and we get the so-called suction due to the clogging of the structure with snow powder. If you take a smooth ski and at the same time cover it with cold, “glassy” paraffin, for example, previously produced green SWIX or STAR, and then process the ski correctly, then the paraffin will cover the entire structure and there will be no suction due to snow powder. In this case, you can even use "warm" skis, but they must be without structure. If you do not close the structure, then the snow powder clogs the structure and the ski starts to slow down, as if riding on sand.

From conversations with athletes, it seems that for skating, Fischer skis should be chosen a little longer than the standard recommendations suggest. Is it their design features?

No, there are no design features in terms of choosing the length of the Fisher skis. The new ski sizes seem to carry a slightly smaller size, i.e. to a size of 177 cm, you need to add another 3 centimeters. Previously, there were sizes of 180, 185, 190cm. Now the longest skating"Fischer" 192cm. The choice of ski length should be determined by the height of the athlete and his qualifications. If the athlete is well coordinated, then he chooses longer skis. Now skating is divided into sprint and distance. Sprinters choose shorter skis. This is necessary in order not to “get confused” at a distance with a very high frequency of steps, which is positively affected by a short inventory. If a person runs distance races, he has good coordination, a powerful push, then he chooses longer skis. If coordination is insufficient, and this can be attributed, for example, to veterans, then in this case the skis should be chosen shorter. When choosing the length of skis for skating, the parameters of the track also play a role. Now the tracks are well prepared, but where this is not the case, where the ski tracks are narrow, there the skis should be shorter. Therefore, I repeat, everything comes from how the athlete is prepared, how the track is prepared and what kind of competitions it is.

- Tell us, please, about the new model of skis "Soft Track"?

Under the brand "Soft track" "Fisher" began production classic skis for warm weather in large numbers snow on the ski slope. In our country, such skis are often called "defective" - when the first such skis appeared, their socks and heels diverged when squeezed. This is the 902 model, which, like the 812 model, is divided into “warm” and “cold”. Model 902 skis are generally stiffer than regular skis. When there is a lot of snow on the track, then at the moment of repulsion the toe of the ski rises, and the ski does not collect this snow. A ski of a conventional design in such conditions collects a little snow in front of it and due to this it slows down. In the 09/10 season, the same Soft Track model will appear among skating skis.

Since last season, Fischer has been installing the NNN platform on its top-level skis. Many hobbyists continue to use shoes with SNS soles and install appropriate bindings on top of the NNN platform. How, in your opinion, should the increase in the overall stiffness of the ski be taken into account in this case?

When the NNN platform is glued to the ski, the stiffness of the ski increases minimally. When we install the SNS platform on the screws, the final stiffness of the ski increases, and in my practice I have repeatedly had to take this into account, but, I emphasize, this difference applies specifically to the glued NNN platform.

- Thanks for answers!

Finally, in our Smolensk region for several public holidays at least a little snow fell, hooking the skis bought in advance on the plane, I decided to run them in!
That's what came out of it…

Yesterday I could not get out on the field before dark, nevertheless I decided to test how the skis behave on light and loose snow. I took a plane, walked (this is important!) to the nearest school, and right at the stadium I drove the plane through the snow with pleasure. Everything was just gorgeous, the plane easily glided through the snow almost without falling through ... Satisfied and determined to fly normally, I returned home.

This morning I went to pick up the car, the weather is fine, frost -12, sun. Having loaded the plane into the car, I went to the field. The field where we fly is about 25 minutes away by car. Arriving at the field, I pulled the plane out of the car, put it on the side of the road in loose snow and began to slowly collect it, screwed on the wings, installed the battery, checked all the mechanics and, with anticipation of yesterday's pleasure, took the plane to the take-off site ...
What was my surprise when, after giving gas, I saw that the plane did not want to move!

Here, a fool would think about why this is happening, but no ... I want to go to heaven! I thought that the snow is too light and loose and the plane digs into it with skis and does not want to glide normally ...

Well, I moved the plane to another place, I continued to rape it ... Reluctantly, my Sbashik slowly began to move ... but not for long, after driving 20 meters, he pecked his nose and broke the propeller ... There was nothing to do, you need to go home!

Having lifted the plane out of the snow, I saw a very entertaining picture, the skis from below were literally covered with pieces of snow and ice that it was impossible to scrape off with your hands ... This is the answer to the question why the plane did not want to accelerate! Banal sticking to a warm surface.

So with a little loss, I gained useful experience, if you bear aircraft with skis in the cold from a warm room, car, etc. DO NOT put it with skis in the snow! Warm skis will immediately become icy and will not slip at all! You need to keep them in the cold for some time, and only then you can lower them into the snow. This is exactly what happened yesterday, when I was walking through the cold with a plane in my hands to school, for 5-7 minutes, and after that everything was fine.

As usual, your Plohish, I hope my negative experience is useful to someone!

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