Selection of the size (size) of the bicycle frame. Merida bike size selection
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Choosing the right frame size is one of the most important considerations when buying a new bike. This parameter is closely related to many others: the type of bike, riding style, personal preferences, etc.
In specialized bicycle shops, you can rely on trained sales assistants in this matter. However, knowledge of correct selection Bicycle sizes can be useful for anyone. Further below, there will be approximate tables for matching frame size to height.
Consider choosing a frame size for the most popular types of bicycles designed for all-round riding. It can be either a mountain bike or a hybrid or all-terrain bike. The vast majority of such bicycles are on the roads and in stores. Highly specialized bikes (downhill, trial, freeride, etc.) have their own size selection criteria and, as a rule, are bought by people who know what they need such a device for.
Today almost everything bicycle frames available in a range of sizes. They can be from two or three for simple pleasure bikes, up to ten or more for road racing machines of classical geometry. Dimension marking can be either digital (in inches or centimeters) or alphabetic. As a rule, the size is "tied" to the height of the seat tube of the frame, which is measured from the center of the bottom bracket axle to the top cut of the seat tube. Some companies measure the height of the seat tube differently, so the same marking on bicycles from different companies (and sometimes even on different lines of machines from the same company) may differ. In addition, differences in frame sizes are not due only to different heights of the seat tube: almost all dimensions, tube angles, and often design solutions of individual frame elements change. In addition, depending on the purpose, the frames can also have different geometry from each other, even from the same manufacturer. Riders generally choose a frame based on the effective length of the top tube (the so-called ETT value) and parameters in general, and size is looked at last. But for the vast majority of cyclists, it is best to focus on the size of the frame.
This brief digression into the shaky world of bicycle frame dimensions is not given to confuse novice cyclists - but to explain that there are no absolutely clear criteria in the spirit of "for a height of 170 cm you need a frame of such and such a size, and nothing else." Moreover, for a particular person, bicycles of noticeably different sizes may be suitable - depending on the company and model line. Therefore, the following correspondences of human height and frame size have fairly large "tolerances". Nevertheless, they will allow you to understand what you need to focus on and, in most cases, successfully choose the right size bike for yourself.
Here is a simple practical way to choose the frame size:
Stand over the bike frame with your back touching the saddle. In this position, the distance between the top tube of the frame and the crotch should be approximately 50-150 mm (for bikes of small sizes, this distance will be less due to the strong inclination of the top tube of the frame). Also, the distance may be less in the case of certain proportions of the human body (in particular, with relatively short legs). Ask the sales assistant to hold the handlebars and adjust the height of the saddle, sit on the bike, put your feet on the pedals. Enjoy the comfortable fit, you can even pedal back to better understand the feeling of driving the chosen car. Such a blitz fitting is very useful.
Bicycle frame size(size) - a parameter that affects the length and height of the frame, i.e. to its overall size. With the increase or decrease in the size of the bicycle frame, the upper, lower, and seat tubes change proportionally.
By choosing the right bicycle size, you will ensure your daily comfortable ride without back and knee pain. When buying a bike for sports or competitions, right choice Frame size matters even more.
There are 3 types of designations: "(inches), conventional units (XS, S, M, L, XL) and centimeters (cm). The size range for a particular bike model is usually either even or odd.
MOUNTAIN, CITY AND HYBRID BIKES SIZING
Below is the most popular table suitable for most bike selections. Sizes have been worked out on the basis of the great sales experience of the dreambikes.ru store, and also compared with many size tables of bicycle manufacturers.
| Frame size, inches | Your height, see | Frame size, cm. | Frame size, conditional units | Designation |
| 13" | 130 — 145 | 33 | XS (XSmall) | Minimum |
| 14" | 135 — 155 | 35,6 | XS (XSmall) | Minimum |
| 15" | 145 — 160 | 38,1 | S (Small) | Small |
| 16" | 150 — 165 | 40,6 | S (Small) | Small |
| 17″ | 156 — 170 | 43,2 | M (Meduim) | Average |
| 18" | 167 — 178 | 45,7 | M (Meduim) | Average |
| 19" | 172 — 180 | 48,3 | L (Large) | Big |
| 20" | 178 — 185 | 50,8 | L (Large) | Big |
| 21″ | 180 — 190 | 53,3 | XL (XLarge) | Very big |
| 22″ | 185 — 195 | 55,9 | XL (XLarge) | Very big |
| 23″ | 190 — 200 | 58,4 | XXL (XLarge) | Maximum |
| 24″ | 195 — 210 | 61 | XXL (XLarge) | Maximum |
Alpine Notes: When choosing hardtails, you can safely use this table. There are rare exceptions, for example, Gary Fisher brand bikes are longer in base than most bikes from other manufacturers. Keep this in mind if you are going to go for walks more than exercise. Double-suspension frames often come in only 2-3 sizes.
Notes to urban: comfortable models. If you have a transitional height, for example 178 or 165 cm, pay attention to the presence of a shock-absorbing seatpost. It does not allow you to lower the saddle all the way into the frame, as can be done on all mountain bikes. Therefore, with a height of 177 cm, it is better to take a bike with an 18″ frame than with a 20″ one, and with a height of 165 cm, it will be more convenient to ride on a 16″ frame than on an 18″ one. Cruisers: Keep it simple when choosing a cruiser size—these models only have one or two. Cruisers are usually designed for the average woman (155 - 180 cm) and a man (170 - 190 cm). If you have any doubts, ask your questions to us.
Notes on hybrids: same as comfort ones (about shock absorbing seatposts).
SIZING ROAD, ROAD BIKES (INCLUDING GIANT COMPACT ROAD™)
To select road bikes, I suggest using a table taken from the original Giant bike catalog 2011 - 2012. All road and road bikes come with Compact Road geometry.
| frame size (regular geometry) |
Height cyclist |
frame size (Giant Compact Road™ Geometry) |
Frame tube length (seat/top) |
| 49 - 51 cm. | 157 - 163 cm. | XS | 42 / 52 cm. |
| 51 - 54 cm. | 163 - 170 cm. | S | 44 / 53.5 cm. |
| 55 - 57 cm. | 170 - 178 cm. | M | 50 / 55.5 cm. |
| 57 - 59 cm. | 178 - 183 cm. | M/L | 53.5 / 57 cm. |
| 58 - 60 cm. | 183 - 190 cm. | L | 55.5 / 58.5 cm. |
| 61 - 63 cm. | 190 - 198 cm. | XL | 58.5 / 61 cm. |
SIZING FOLDING BIKES (AUTHOR, GIANT, SHULZ, STRIDA, ETC.)
Most folding bikes are available in one size. It is designed for an average person with a height of 155 to 185 cm. Based on sales experience, we can make recommendations for specific models. If your height is from 183 cm and above, we recommend the Shulz Goa 8 V-brake, Shulz Goa 8 Disc, Author Simplex models.
| bike model | Optimal Growth |
| Author Simplex | 150 - 195 cm. |
| Shulz Easy | 150 - 185 cm. |
| Shulz Goa 3 | 155 - 185 cm. |
| Shulz Goa 8 | 175 - 195 cm. |
| Giant Expressway 1 and 2 | 155 - 185 cm. |
| Giant Halfway | 160 - 180 cm. |
| Giant Subway | 160 - 180 cm. |
| Strida Mini | 140 - 160 cm. |
| Strida LX, 5.2, SX, SD | 153 - 193 cm. |
CHILDREN'S BIKES SIZE
All children's bicycles are divided, first of all, based on age and height. Now there is a lot of confusion on the Internet in terms of indicators between the size of bicycles and the age of children.
Growth indicators and their correspondence to the size of bicycle wheels are not taken from the ceiling. In preparing this table, the classifications of the manufacturers of children's bicycles themselves were studied, as well as growth tables for children from 1 year to 15 years. If your child is growing slower or faster than the averages shown in the chart, you can buy a smaller or bigger bike respectively. There is nothing wrong with that.
SIZING BMX BIKES
The size of these stunt bikes is the length of the top tube of the frame (top tube, TT). Also measured in inches. The choice of BMX is a very individual and subjective matter. Some people like to ride on short frames, some on long ones. To determine exactly how it will be convenient for you, it is best to take a BMX ride from friends or acquaintances. In the case of the Giant BMX, the following situation can be traced: models with a lower cost are equipped with frames with a smaller size (assuming that teenagers mainly buy inexpensive models). In other cases, we suggest using the table (the accuracy of the information is not guaranteed!).
| Your height | frame size |
| 140 - 150 cm. | 19.5″ |
| 150 - 170 cm. | 20.0″ |
| 170 - 180 cm. | 20.5″ |
| 180 - 190 cm. | 21.0″ |
What else should you pay attention to when choosing between two suitable bike sizes?
Suggested riding style: for active and extreme skiing of the two options, it is better to choose the smaller one - b O More headroom above the frame will give you confidence, and the bike will be more nimble. For quiet trips around the city and parks, you can take the frame "back to back".
Body type: with a thin or normal physique, feel free to choose b O a larger bike size. If you are fat, it is better to take a size smaller - it will be easier to get on, off and steer.
Useful adjustments: you can always adjust your position by adjusting the saddle height and stem tilt (not available on all models). On mountain bikes, the stem is most often non-adjustable, a safety standard used on bikes designed for active riding. In this case, you can buy a longer / short / high / low stem - this is a completely normal practice.
Finally, a video on how the legendary Soulcraft bike frames are made
Comparison of models.
After visiting several stores, compare different brands of bikes in the price range you are looking for. Among those chosen, it is worth giving preference to the model that, at an equal cost with others, will have a frame and / or some of the components of a higher level. You should not emphasize, let alone choose a bike, based on the presence of fenders and flashlights on the bike, since these are far from the main details, and besides, these little things can be installed on any bike. The name of the manufacturer and his reputation, as well as the reputation of the seller, are important.
Country of manufacture
It's no secret that leading consumer electronics manufacturers assemble their products in Asia. And bicycle companies, I must say, do not lag behind them. Moreover, most American and European manufacturers, including brands such as Specialized, Scott USA, Marin, Peugeot, Shwinn, GT, Trek, etc., place orders for their junior, medium, and sometimes even older models at foreign factories. (not their own), namely Taiwanese and Chinese. Therefore, if a bike costs less than $1200, forget about its "white origin" and think about whether it makes sense to overpay for a sticker on the frame. This is especially true for the so-called budget mountain bikes, i.e. worth up to $500.
Choose your size
Sometimes the most basic miscalculation when buying is the wrong frame size. First of all, this is due to the fact that in the markets and sometimes in some stores, the models are presented in a single copy and the buyer sometimes simply has no choice. So, you should know that any model of a bicycle is always produced by a company in several sizes. The frame size is the distance from the bottom bracket axis - the axis of the system to the intersection of the end of the seat tube with the seat post and is measured in inches.
| Frame | Height cm |
| 16" | 150-165 |
| 18" | 165-180 |
| 20" | 175-200 |
| 22" | 190 and > |
Merida has differences in the size range depending on the series:
Kalahari - 14.5", 15.5", 17.5", 19", 20.5", 22"
Dakar - 14.5", 15.5", 17.5", 19", 20.5", 22"
MATTS - 14.5", 16", 18", 20", 22"
| Size, " | 14,5 | 15,5 | 16 | 17 | 17,5 | 18 | 19 | 19,5 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| Height, cm | 140-150 | 150-155 | 155-160 | 160-165 | 160-165 | 165-170 | 170-175 | 175-180 | 180-185 | 185-190 | 190 + |
Full suspension -17", 18.5", 20.5"
| Size, " | 17 | 18,5 | 20,5 |
| Height | short | average | high |
It should be remembered that the frame must be selected individually due to the structural features of each individual person. The length of the legs when choosing is of paramount importance. Also, do not forget that each manufacturer has its own frame geometry that is different from others, so an 18" frame from one company may be larger / smaller than an 18" frame from another, although logically they should be the same.
The basic rule for choosing a frame size is: standing with the bike between your legs on a flat surface, you should be able to squat about the width of your hand (7-10cm). This is mainly done to avoid accidents when jumping off a bicycle in an emergency. If you prefer a relaxed riding style, you can ignore this rule, but remember that you are responsible for your choice. This rule is also ignored by most buyers when buying bikes for teenagers and they can be understood - buy a child new bike every year it is definitely expensive.
Einstein's formula for determining frame size:
1.Measure your feet length
2. Multiply the result by 0.56
3. Divide the resulting number by 2.54
4. The result is your size
But sometimes it's easier and better to ask the seller.
Warranty and warranty service
Be sure to ask about the warranty period for the frame and components. It also does not hurt to find out if the seller has his own warranty workshop. When buying, make sure that the warranty card is filled out correctly and legibly.
Pre-sale preparation
When buying a bike, it must be checked in your presence without fail. Pay attention to the operation of the derailleurs, the brakes and the lack of eights on the rims, and not just the inflation of the tires.
Main types of mountain bikes
Standard hard) - the most available type mountain bike.
It allows you to appreciate all the advantages of mountain bikes for relatively little money.
In most cases, has equipment no higher than entry or intermediate level and more weight. It is made of steel, chrome-molybdenum and sometimes aluminum.
Weight 12-14.5 kg
Price from $150 to $400
hardtail (hard tail)- Bicycle with front suspension fork.
This is the main and most common type of mountain bike in the world.
It is on them that athletes perform in the only Olympic form sport of mountain biking - cross-country.
They are mainly made of chrome-molybdenum, aluminum, carbon or titanium.
Weight 9-13.5 kg
Price from $200 to $5000
Full suspension is the first and most common in the full suspension mountain bike family.
It is characterized by increased comfort due to the presence of front and rear shock absorbers.
Most are made of aluminum, sometimes carbon fiber, some cheap models are made of steel.
Weight 10.5-13.5 kg (aluminum)
Price from $400 to $6000
Freeride - two-suspension for fans of extreme riding.
It differs from the previous type by the presence of a two-crown fork, and at least hydraulic or disc brakes. And therefore more weight.
Made mainly from aluminium.
Weight 12-14 kg.
Price from $650 to $6000
Main nodes and mechanisms
Regardless of which brand you choose, all parts, except for the frame, from the handlebars to the saddle, are made by other companies. It is sometimes very difficult to understand them. Let's focus on the most important parts bike.
Suspension fork.
Rigid front forks are a thing of the past. Only the cheapest models do not have suspension forks, an integral part of a real mountain bike. Today, spring-elastomer-type suspension forks are the most common, more expensive ones include spring-hydraulic (oil) type and the latest air ones. Cross-country fork travel ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 inches (67-100mm), downhill forks have travel from 4.5 to 7 inches (100-180mm). The most famous manufacturers are: Rock Shox, Manitou, RST, HeadShock (Cannondale) and Marzocchi. IN last years Forks that are more affordable and have good Features Made in Taiwan: SR suntour, Ballistic, Top Gun.
Switches.
Front and back. The most important part of a bike after the frame. The front derailleur shifts the chain between the three front chainrings on the system. The rear derailleur shifts the chain between 6-9 sprockets on the cassette. The most common derailleurs are from Shimano and SRAM.
Shifters- the switch handles that actuate them are located on the steering wheel. The right one controls the rear derailleur, the left one controls the front derailleur. There are two types of switch knobs.
The first option is "rapidfire" (Rapidfire) from Shimanowhose handles have two levers: one for moving the chain from large stars to smaller ones, the second in the opposite direction. Switching is carried out with the help of fingers (thumb and index).
The second option is Gripshift (Grip shift) from SRAM. This switch looks like a motorcycle throttle and is switched by turning it. Unlike "rapidfire", "gripshift" allows you to switch speeds in the entire range with one movement. None of the above systems has any obvious advantages over the other, the choice depends on taste.
Both systems are equally convenient and quick to learn. Cheap bikes still use "tablet" type switches (Top Mounts) with one lever. The most common shifters, again, from Shimanoor SRAM
brakes
Since its first introduction a few years ago, Shimano's V-brake has been a huge success for its reliability, excellent performance and light weight. Soon, other companies began producing similar brakes (we are not talking about copying Shimano's development, since a patent for a similar brake design was issued in France back in the 20s of our century). In addition to Shimano, the most famous companies are Avid and Tektro. This year, SRAM introduced its "vi-breaks". Magura, a manufacturer of hydraulic brakes for bicycles, deserves special mention. Despite their high price, these brakes are definitely worth the money. In recent years, disc brakes have undergone rapid development, completely displacing others from downhill, they have come to cross-country as well. Today these are the best brakes, but their high cost, the need for their own special bushing and lack of compatibility with most frames, make it impossible for them to be widely used. application.
System
The system consists of connecting rods and chainrings. To some extent, this is the heart of the bike. Rigidity and low weight are the main requirements for systems. Most bikes are equipped with systems from Shimano. Also common are systems from Sugino (produces systems for Ritchey and Specialized), Cyclone, SR Suntour, Tracer and CODA.
The frame is the main structural element. IN currently Mountain bike frames are made from the following materials: steel, chrome molybdenum steel, aluminium, titanium, magnesium, carbon and special steel alloys.
|
Material name |
English |
Short designation |
|
Steel |
High Tensile Steel |
Hi-ten |
|
Chrome molybdenum steel |
Crommolybdenium |
Cro-moly, Cr-mol |
|
Aluminum |
Aluminium/Aluminum |
Alu |
|
Titanium |
Titanium |
Ti |
|
Magnesium |
Magnesium |
mg |
|
Composites |
Carbon, Thermoplast |
No |
Steel is the most common material used to make smaller, cheaper bikes. The advantages include strength, low cost and ease of manufacture. The main disadvantage is the most big weight among other materials used for manufacturing.
Chrome molybdenum steel is the next level material. This alloy of steel, chromium and molybdenum has all the advantages of steel and, in addition, has less weight. This is the main difference from steel.
Aluminum is a lightweight and durable material. It has strength characteristics that are different from steel, and allows the manufacture of frames with large pipe diameters and wall thicknesses. This makes them look more aggressive. The most common material in the manufacture of mountain bikes of the middle and upper middle classes.
Titanium is durable, legendary and, of course, expensive. It has no weight gain over expensive aluminum and chrome-molybdenum frames. It is not widely used for a number of reasons, including cost and complexity of manufacture.
Magnesium is a new alloy in the bicycle industry. Durable, lightweight and also expensive material. It's just starting to come into fashion.
Composites are a relatively new material in bicycle construction. For the manufacture of composite frames, carbon, fiberglass, Kevlar threads and various bonding compounds (resins) are used. Combinations of materials, resins and methods of their bonding allow you to achieve any given characteristics. It is possible that composite frames are the future of bicycles, including mountain bikes. Frames made of composite materials do not withstand drops and bumps well.
Special alloys - in recent years, steel alloys have appeared that have unique characteristics, sometimes surpassing those of titanium. These steels usually contain rare earth elements.
It is impossible to single out any material as the best, but today the undisputed leader among all materials used for the manufacture of frames is aluminum.
A sign of a quality frame is "butting".
Butting is a process of manufacturing pipes, the result of which is a product with different wall thicknesses. This process allows you to increase the wall thickness in places with high loads (example: joints with the steering column, bottom brackets) and reduce in others where the loads are minimal. Thanks to this, it is possible to significantly reduce the weight of the frame. Buttig is single - one end of the pipe has an increased thickness, double - both, and triple, when the pipe has three different thicknesses. It was butting that allowed the designers of modern aluminum, steel (chrome-molybdenum and special alloys) and titanium frames to come close to the weight of 1300 grams.
Firm Merida uses Newest technologies in the field of butting and makes bicycles a truly original technical solution MATTS (Merida Aluminum Tig-welding Technology System). This allows you to significantly reduce material consumption and, accordingly, the weight of the bike while maintaining high strength characteristics.
The cheapest are steel frames. Chrome molybdenum comes next. They are usually cheaper than aluminum, and those, in turn, are cheaper than titanium and carbon. But do not forget that aluminum, titanium and chrome-molybdenum frames are also divided into higher quality - expensive, and lower quality - cheaper .. Therefore, a good chrome-molybdenum frame can cost more than aluminum, and an aluminum frame can be more expensive than titanium. The name of the manufacturer, the quality of the frame and its weight, not the material from which it was made, play a key role in determining the value of the frame.
Available about attachments
When buying a bike, the main criterion (after the frame) is the group or class of attachments installed on the bike. The main reference point is groups from Shimano - a Japanese corporation - the world leader in attachments for bicycles, since a rare bike does not have some part of equipment from Shimano. Conventionally, they can be divided into two classes: amateur and sports. Below is a list of groups from Shimano. Also shown for comparison are shifter, shifter and brake classes from the world's second leading manufacturer SRAM.
| Shimano | A brief description of | SRAM |
| XTR | For professional athletes. | ESP9.0SL DiRT Plasma |
| Deore XT* | Used by athletes and is a benchmark for most hobbyists who can afford it | ESP 9.0 DiRT Quarz |
| Deore LX* | Real quality. The top bar for the toughest amateurs.
Used by athletes |
--- |
| STX-RC | Primary sports group. | ESP 7.0 DiRT Neos |
| Nexave | Designed and focused on cyclists | --- |
| Alivio | Best for Lovers | ESP 5.0 DiRT Centera |
| Acera-X | DiRT MRX | |
| Altus | Average good level for amateurs | DiRT MRX |
| Tourney** TY-30, TY-22, TY-15, TY-05 |
Good First level for lovers | --- |
* - for the sake of brevity, sometimes it is simply indicated as XT and LX, omitting the Deore prefix.
**- sometimes called SIS for simplicity
Popularity sports groups for amateurs, it is primarily due to reliability, smooth and precise operation and, of course, less weight. Therefore, for aggressive off-road, and just really active driving, sports-class equipment is desirable. It is also worth noting that the bike, with rare exceptions, is never fully equipped. one group. To achieve optimal parameters in the "quality / cost" criterion, mixing of components is used different groups usually two adjacent ones.
Little nothings of life
In addition to the bike itself, it is advisable to immediately buy some useful things: a pump, a flask, a universal tool (reminiscent of a penknife, but equipped with hexagons and screwdrivers), fenders, a couple of spare cameras, a bike computer (speed, mileage and time), a rear flashlight / flashing beacon - a must if you ride after sunset.
Well, maybe you should take a bike helmet. Life is more precious. As you know, spare parts for people are not yet sold, and you should not scatter brains. You might argue that it's not cool to ride with a helmet on. Well, spend the rest of your life in wheelchair- Cool?
Everything seems to be fine - the color is right, and the mechanics work perfectly, but you get tired quickly, and skating turns into torture in an hour or two. All clear. The bike is incorrectly sized. To avoid disappointment like this, you need to know what veloram sizes are and how they fit your height.
Without theory - nowhere
When buying a bike in a shop, you will most likely be offered assistance in choosing the right frame for your height. But you will feel much more confident if you yourself know all the subtleties of this issue. Today we will not touch on rare and exotic types of bikes, but consider the main, most popular ones - sizes for mountain bikes, road bikes, and children's bikes.
Almost all bike frames come in a variety of sizes. And each manufacturer classifies them differently. Almost every. Each bike model has at least 3-4 sizes and, accordingly, different markings. Frames are marked by height in alphabetical and digital form. The defining parameter for the frame of any bicycle is height. It is measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the end of the tube and can be specified in either inches or centimeters.
The length of the seat tube, of course, is not the only indicator that characterizes the size of a bicycle, but the main one. The geometry of the frame is also determined by the angles of inclination of the pipes at the joints, the length of these pipes and their relative position. Therefore, it is impossible to say unequivocally that such and such a number is suitable for a particular person, but such and such is not suitable.
The tables that we will definitely give can and should be used. But this is not a panacea for all ills. In addition to the size of the frame in terms of height, there is a difference in, which should not be forgotten either. Lots of frame options different length top tube, which greatly affects landing and unloading shoulder joints, elbows, hands. The length also greatly affects the fit and has a lot of adjustments. Wheelbase is critical when riding in different conditions, fork angle affects handling and stability - there's a lot to count, so let's start simple.
Frame sizing
There is a tradition all over the world to mark all bicycle frames with letters, numbers and their combinations. Consider the main types of frame markings from different manufacturers.
There are a total of 6 frame sizes according to seat tube height:
- XS is the smallest bike size for the smallest riders;
- S - small;
- M - the average version of the frames, the most common;
- L - slightly above average;
- XL - large;
- XXL - well, very large.
And here the confusion begins, because each size corresponds to two options in numerical terms. This equivalent is conditional and serves to approximate the correspondence of your physical data with the data of a particular frame. And here is this table:
If anyone is interested, the data in this table is calculated using the formula for selecting an adult bike. According to your parameters, where "d" is the length of your legs, and "D" is the size of the frame. Now we will try to determine by the formula: D \u003d d * 0.56 / 2.54. The formula uses two coefficients - 0.56 is the ratio of leg length to height, and 2.54 is the conversion of inches to centimeters. Such arithmetic.
Since all people are different in size and the same ratio of legs and height cannot be found, this number is also very approximate.
But there are cases when the overall dimensions of two frames at once correspond to your data. Do not buy the same two great at once. What to do in this case? Think.
- If I'm planning an active cycling lifestyle, I'll choose a smaller bike size because the smaller bike is easier to handle and weighs less.
- If I am full, then it will be difficult for me to climb a high frame.
- If I am thin and skinny, then I need to choose a slightly larger frame to seem more weighty and not be blown away by the wind. Quite seriously.
- If I have already bought a bike, and it does not suit me in size, although everything converges according to the tables, then I probably forgot about the presence of saddle and handlebar adjustments, which in most cases have a very wide range. In addition, I always have the opportunity to change the handlebar stem or seat tube.
- If my hands are up to my knees, then I will take a bigger bike. In which case, you can always reduce the adjustment.
You can also find markings for both a bicycle for a child and for a women's bicycle. Let's pay some attention to them.
Sizes of children's bicycles
Manufacturer when it releases children bicycle, knows that the baby is growing very quickly. And so he makes some dimensional correction and tries to make the frame in such a way that the range of adjustments is as wide as possible. However, it should be taken into account not so much the dimensions of the frame as the dimensions of the bicycle. The controllability is great and depends on this parameter. maximum speed. You should not measure the baby with a caliper, you still don’t know how he will grow up in six months or even a couple of months, so you need to choose a children’s bike with some margin.
Here is an approximate size chart for children's bikes.
| Child height (cm) | Child's age | Tire diameter (inches) |
| 75 – 95 | 1 – 3 | Up to 12 |
| 95 – 101 | 3 – 4 | 12 |
| 101 – 115 | 4 – 6 | 16 |
| 115 – 128 | 6 – 9 | 20 |
| 126 – 155 | 9 – 13 | 24 |
Road Bike Sizes
The features of road bikes are conducive to long trips on asphalt. Often very distant. Therefore, it will take a long time to drive, which requires especially careful selection of the dimensions of both the frame and wheels, etc. In the table below we give recommended sizes for road bikes.
Choosing a bike by weight
In this case, unfortunately, we cannot summarize the data in a table, otherwise it would be huge. We can make a recommendation. If your weight does not exceed 100 kg - ride any suitable bike of adequate quality and forget about weight restrictions. If your weight exceeds 100 kg, then you need to pick up a bike with reinforced wheels and a good, expensive carriage, with good expensive bearings.
Why is it important? With the right frame selection, you will move faster with less energy, and with the wrong size, you may experience discomfort in the back, knees, and problems with the control of the bike in general, which will affect your safety.
Sizes usually start at 13" and go up to 24". The size step can be from 0.5" to 2". There are three types of bicycle size designations:
- inches;
- conventions(XS,S,M,L,XL);
- centimeters (cm).
So, let's pick a cut!
Why can these tables be trusted?
We have collected everything recommendations in Russian and foreign internet, data from manufacturers, mixed it with real experience of our team and friends and as a result, weighted recommendations were made for all classes of bicycles for all people. Of course, all the data has already been verified on a variety of sales.
Mountain, two-suspension, hybrid, city, urban bikes, as well as fatbikes.
Most big class bicycles, common features frames - therefore one table.
| Height, cm | Frame size, inches | Frame size, cm | size |
| 130-145 | 13" | 33 | XS |
| 134-155 | 14" | 35,6 | XS |
| 145-160 | 15" | 38,1 | S |
| 150-165 | 16" | 40,6 | S |
| 156-170 | 17" | 43,2 | M |
| 167-177 | 18" | 45,7 | M |
| 172-180 | 19" | 48,3 | L |
| 178-185 | 20" | 50,8 | L |
| 180-190 | 21" | 53,3 | XL |
| 185-195 | 22" | 55,9 | XL |
| 190-200 | 23" | 58,4 | XXL |
| 195-210+ | 24" | 61 | XXL |
Road, cyclocross and track bikes.
One of the most important parameters here is the length of the top tube. In road models, the main indicator is ETT (effective top tube length). ETT is the length of an imaginary line that is parallel to the ground and runs from the top of the head tube to where it meets the seat post. In most cases, you should use it.
| Height, cm | Frame size, cm | size |
| 157-163 | 49-51 | XS |
| 163-170 | 50-54 | S |
| 170-178 | 54-56 | M |
| 178-183 | 56-58 | M/L |
| 183-190 | 57-59 | L |
| 190-198 | 60-63 | XL |
Children's bicycles
| Child's age, years | Height, cm | Wheel diameter, inches |
| 1-3 | 74-95 | <12" |
| 3-4 | 95-101 | 12" |
| 4-6 | 101-114 | 16" |
| 6-9 | 115-128 | 20" |
| 9-13 | 126-156 | 24" |
Cruisers and folding bikes.
In most cases, they have only one size and are designed for average growth.
| Women | Men |
| 154-180 cm | 171-191 cm |
bmx.
Height in BMX is the length of the top tube measured in inches (from the center of the head tube to the center of the seat tube). For a beginner rider, you can choose a size based on the table below. For a more experienced rider, it makes sense to build on experience and preferences.
| Height, cm | Size, inch |
| up to 149 | 20 |
| 150-159 | 20.2 |
| 160-169 | 20.5 |
| 170-179 | 20.7 |
| 180-189 | 21 |
| 190 + | 21.2 |
Bicycles for dirt jumping, street, pump and slalom/4x.
Most manufacturers design dirt/street frames around 12-14" sizes, pump and slalom usually up to 16". In most cases, this segment will have a maximum of three sizes, and maybe only one. Height plays a smaller role here, and your preferences and riding experience play a big role. General practice - the larger the frame - the more stable it is, the smaller - the easier it is to rotate (360, tail-whip and other tricks).
| Height, cm | Size |
| Up to 175 | S |
| From 175 | L |
Wheel size for dirt and street riding. 24 wheels were fashionable at one point, but now they are ridden much less. In general, they are good for people under 180 cm tall. In any case, you can do any trick on any wheels. 24s are more responsive and sharp in handling, but slightly less stable and vice versa.
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Features&Facts.
- With a normal build, choose a size where your height is in the middle of the recommended range. If you are on its upper edge, then you should not take a larger size, since the next size will already be designed for a taller person;
- If you know that you have long arms or legs, be sure to take this into account when choosing a size;
- If you are fat, you can choose a slightly smaller size - it will be easier to get off and climb;
- For people weighing over 90 kg, you can also buy ordinary mountain bikes, if you do not intend to ride extreme. However, there are models that have a greater margin of safety, due to stronger components and material in the frame.
- The height of the top tube depends on your style of riding - if it's a sport, then usually it is higher, if it's a comfortable fit, then choose a slightly lower tube;
- Once again: the smaller the frame, the more maneuverable it is, the longer it is, the more stable at speed;
- Another method for determining the size: you need to measure your height from the groin to the floor and multiply the resulting measurement in centimeters by a coefficient. The result of the calculation is the size in centimeters. To convert the result to inches, just divide the value by 2.54.
- 0.665 for a road bike (for triathlon, frames 3.5-5 cm lower are usually chosen;
- 0.63 for hybrid;
- 0.57 for a mountain bike.
Ergonomics and fit adjustments/adjustments.
- Saddle height. Your leg should be slightly bent in the lower position of the pedal;
- Saddle nose slope. The main thing is that you do not feel discomfort when driving;
- Moving the saddle along the seatpost frame forward or backward (if you feel that the center of gravity of the body is shifted to one side);
- The position of the brake and shift levers - it is better to put them in a position where they will be an extension of your hand and landing;
- Replacing the stem with a longer or shorter one, as well as a lower or higher one (if the landing is too low or elongated);
- Replacing the seatpost with a model with a shift back.
Great choice!
