Women's sizes for snowboard bindings. Burton EST bindings. Let's do a little experiment

The main criteria for choosing a snowboard are the height of the rider, the rigidity of the board, and the price.
Before buying a snowboard, you must decide what style of riding you prefer.
This will determine the board type.

Basic riding style:

The most spectacular and active style of skiing. Freestyle is acrobatic jumps, stunts, jumps in the half-pipe (half-pipe), springboards, tricks on the railing, sliding-jibbing (jibbing) on various surfaces.
Freestyle geography - ski jumps and facilities within the city, ski parks, specially equipped fristal parks in ski resorts.

Freeride

Skiing in the mountains at high speeds in deep snow. Larger turning radii, over natural terrain, greater stability, greater length and greater board width. Freedom of choice - you want to rush in a straight line, you want to lay huge arcs across the snowy fields.
Freeride geography: big mountains.

Universal Style (All Mountain)

I want everything at once: long downhill on the track, ski jumping, big mountains and a lot of snow. Everything at once on one universal board. All Mountain is exactly in the middle between FreeStyle and FreeRide, something in between, but not simpler, but more versatile in terms of riding style.
Universal style geography: trails ski resorts, freestyle parks, big mountains.

There are also more specialized boards that fit the following categories:

AllMountainFreestyle- freestyle from natural terrain in big mountains
Park- freestyle of the top level, participation in competitions
BigMountain- big mountains, virgin lands

In order to choose the right snowboard in accordance with the style of skiing, you need to know the technical parameters of the board: stiffness, riding style, cost level and specifications boards: sizes, radius, rider weight, contact length, width, materials.

Rostov

Properly chosen length of the snowboard is the stability in the corners.
Simplified method - the board should be slightly above the chin. But this method does not always work.
It is much more important to consider the weight of the rider when choosing the length of a snowboard.

The approximate size of a snowboard, depending on the weight, can be determined from the following table

Rider weight	All mountain	Freeride	Freestyle
45-50 kg	142-148 cm	144-152 cm	140-144 cm
50-60 kg	148-156 cm	152-158 cm	144-152 cm
60-70 kg	156-163 cm	158-165 cm	152-160 cm
Over 75 kg	163 cm and above	165 and up	160 and above

For Freeride, the snowboard is chosen to be longer for comfortable riding in deep snow.
For Freestyle, choose a shorter board for maneuverability.

Width

Foot size should also be considered when choosing a snowboard. The boot should not protrude beyond the edges of the board by more than 1.5 cm with the correct angle of the bindings. But it should not be much smaller than the board - the narrower the snowboard, the less effort when changing the edge.

That is why it is better for girls to choose special female models of boards, and for riders with a foot size of more than 45 - wide models (indicated XL or Wide)

Rigidity

The more experienced and professional the rider, the stiffer the snowboard you can choose. With such a board, he will be able to ride more aggressively, it will be as responsive to every movement and will provide maximum return.

A softer board is ideal for beginners and advanced snowboarders, it is easier and easier to turn, softens bumps and forgives mistakes.

Geometry, snowboard shape

All Mountain is a versatile form. The nose and tail of the snowboard are different in length, the bending stiffness is small, the platform for the bindings is shifted towards the tail, the cutout is symmetrical.
This form of snowboard is perfect for beginners and advanced riders.

Directional - a snowboard with directional geometry. The board has a longer nose and softer construction from the front attachment to the nose. Mounting holes are usually shifted 25 mm towards the tail.
Mainly used for All Mountain and Freeride.

Twin-tip - a snowboard with symmetrical geometry. The nose and tail are the same in width, shape and stiffness, fastenings are strictly in the center.
It is a maneuverable board and recommended for technical freestyle.

According to the deflection, several types of boards are also distinguished:

Camber - speed riding, carving, pipe - this is the choice of aggressive riders of intermediate and higher levels.

The zero camber is a choice for beginners, but also great as an all-around snowboard for both jigging and freeriding.

Jib-rocker (jib Rocka) - the name speaks for itself.

Universal rocker (all mtn freestyle Rocka) - suitable for the park for presses and butters on the prepared slope and for freeride.

Freeride rocker (powder Rocka) - for freeride.

If you are a beginner, flat camber, jib rocker and all-round rocker are the best choices for you. If you are a jibber, then your choice is obvious. If you are an all-rounder who rides everything on one board, then the all-round rocker is your choice. If you are an experienced rider looking for a fun and varied ride, then a versatile rocker or camrock is the way to go. For advanced riders who like a good click and aggressive riding, a regular camber is fine. Well, for freeriders who cannot live without virgin soil, a freeride rocker will do.

Sidecut Radius

Sidecut Radius plays an important role. Its value ranges from 7 to 11 meters, it affects the rotation of the board.

The smaller the sidecut radius, the sharper the board turns at low speed and the more stable it is when landing.
The larger the radius, the more stable the snowboard is at high speed.
There are also boards for elliptical (in the form of an ellipse) and progressive (double, triple) radius. With such radii, the board practically does not break off the arc in a turn in any snow condition.

Design

The most common snowboard design is sandwich. This design is similar to a sandwich, with the sidewall serving as the junction between the topsheet and the piping.

Another design - cap (Cap). It is slightly lighter than a sandwich, as it is made from less material. The top layer of the cap board covers both the core and the sides. This provides the board with the necessary rigidity, but such a board is more difficult to repair.

sliding surface material

There are only two materials from which the sliding surfaces are made Extruded and Sintered. Very often manufacturers of different brands give them different names.

extruded- an extruded sliding surface, which is obtained by applying a molten material. It is softer, less resistant to various damages, but has good glide and is the best choice for a beginner snowboarder.

Sintered- sliding surface, which is obtained by hot pressing. In this case, many pores are formed, which absorb wax well during subsequent processing. Such a surface is harder, more resistant to damage. The high density of the material does not allow the penetration of water. But such a board needs more thorough care.

Graphite is sometimes added to the material of the sliding surface, which reduces the electrical charges of the surface and improves sliding.

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS & BOOTS:

Size grid of snowboard boots (US sizes, European sizes, sizes in centimeters) and matching bindings FLOWshoe sizes:

Snowboard binding sizes HEAD:

Men's models: M 25.0 - 27.0 L 27.5 - 29.0 XL 29.5 - 32.5
Ladies: S 22.5 - 24.5 M 25.0 - 27.0
Children's models: S 18.5 - 24.5 M 25.0 - 28.5

It is a special platform on which two frames are installed: the front one with a lock and the back one without it. You need to put the heel of the boot in the back lockless frame and put on the lock from the front. This kind of lock allows the rider's legs to be more firmly attached and provides good sensitivity.

Semi-rigid fasteners

Fixes the leg above the ankle. Such bindings allow you to ride in ordinary shoes of any size and save on the purchase of special boots. However, this increases the risk of injury to the ankle.

Types of fastenings, divided by type of fastening

Strap.
flow.
Step-in.

Strap mounts

The classic type of device, the appearance of which depends on the materials used for production (metal, composite, plastic). Let's look at a few common types of strap fasteners that most riders put on.

Plastic strap devices are the most classic of the genre. Great for beginners and amateurs. A huge selection of all sizes, as well as spare parts for them, allow you to choose the perfect option for the rider.

Plastic with a metal bracket, as in the first case, are easy to install and reliable in operation. The metal brace gives extra rigidity when bending, which affects the controllability of the board. Such devices can also be installed for beginners and skiing enthusiasts.

Plastic with a metal plate - this is even more rigidity and even more controllability. You can use .

Flow mounts

Have one characteristic difference from previous types of fasteners. With the help of a reclining back, you can fasten yourself to the board while standing. This significantly affects the speed of fastening to the board. However, such fasteners are less reliable, and it also does not secure the boot in the best way. It is worth installing for lovers of slow skiing.

Step-in mounts

Perhaps the best bindings, in terms of donning speed. As soon as he stepped on the fastener, it automatically fastens. A significant disadvantage of this device is that when snow gets on the device, it does not fasten well. And also can unfasten in the process of extreme skiing.

To the right binding, you need to have the right shoes that fit perfectly in size. One is inseparable from the other, and this is important to understand when choosing and installing a mechanism. You can read about installing and configuring fasteners below.

Installing snowboard bindings

Most likely, when buying fasteners, you will be offered to install it directly in the store, but if the installation takes place on your own, then for this it is important to know several installation parameters:

Location of fasteners. As a rule, crepes are installed on special inserts (mortgages). Four-screw inserts are most commonly used, but some manufacturers may use smaller ones: with three screws. It is necessary to make sure that the fasteners fit the location of the fastening inserts and their threads.
Rack definition. Required when installing fasteners. Often this is written in the attachment guide. There are two types of stances: Goofy (goofy) - if you ride with your left foot forward and Regular (regular) - if your right foot is forward. This is determined by the example of your classes athletics. Just determine which leg you have is pushing and which is supporting.
The width of the rack or the distance between the axes of the crepe. There is a standard in which the size of the rack is determined by the size of the lower leg, that is, the distance from the knee to the heel.
The definition of the turn angle is measured in degrees relative to the board. It is strictly individual for each rider. For beginner riders, it is recommended to set the front mount in the region of 12-15 degrees and from 0 to 10 degrees rear. A lot depends on the size of the shoes.

Setting up your snowboard bindings

Snowboard bindings can be adjusted directly. Some connections can be adjusted with bare hands, without the use of special tools. However, in most cases a Phillips screwdriver is required. Most often, such tools can be found on a slope, but it is better to have your own, as sometimes you come across inappropriate quality screwdrivers or their crosses do not fit.

Such settings are used by more experienced riders, a more precise setting helps to make the board as responsive as possible to every movement of the owner. Whereas with beginners, such a setting can play a cruel joke. Every, even unconscious movement of the body will be transmitted to the board, and it will become more difficult to control it.

We told you about what types of fasteners are, as well as how they can be selected, installed and configured. We hope you find this information helpful and strengthen your bond with the board. If you know the nuances of choosing, installing and adjusting mounts that are not described above, write about it in the comments.

Snowboard bindings are an important piece of equipment that is responsible for transferring the force you apply while steering the board. From their quality, manufacturability, rigidity, settings depends on the control over the board on the slope and ease of edge-over.

There are several types of snowboard bindings.: step in(no longer in production) tough(for downhill skiing on rigid directional boards and plastic boots) and soft, the most popular today.

What is the mount made of?

- mounting base, including the heel arch and the disk for setting the degree,

- highback with tilt adjustment

Upper and lower straps, straps and clips.

The fastener clips face outward, so you can easily distinguish the right fastener from the left.

Take a look at the disk, it shows degrees from 0 in both directions. Additional holes in the disk are designed to adjust the position of the mounts forward and backward.

It is necessary to understand the structure of fasteners, first of all, because the latest technologies and developments are dedicated to them. The battle for the title of the best today involves bindings with the lightest weight, quickest clipping system and made from the most durable materials.

It is thanks to the design of the structure of bindings and the selection of the most advanced materials that manufacturers manage to take the lead and make your riding comfortable and progressing.

materials

In the production of materials for fastenings, real space technologies are used. Today the main materials for the best bindings- these are carbon, fiberglass, nylon, various aluminum alloys (reinforcing their strength many times over), as well as steel the highest standard for fastening parts such as screws. Today it is the strongest and lightest materials. However, the desire to purchase bindings made of 100% carbon is unlikely to end in success for your wallet. Choose reinforcement exactly where you need it most, namely in the highback, heel arch and base. Match the level of bindings with the level of your riding.

Modern technologies

Asymmetrical highback

This design of the highbacks serves for the best contact between the boot and the binding, which means better control and transfer of energy. Highback with such a structure perfectly fixes the foot exactly where it is needed. Recommended by manufacturers for wide racks, and therefore more suitable for freestyle or jibbing.

By the way, as a rule, a highback with this design has a lightweight design, which has a positive effect on total weight fasteners.

Dead zones

Where the bindings attach to the snowboard is the point where you have the worst board feel, and the snowboard flexes the worst. Of course, if you are just starting to ride, you can hardly feel it. However, as you increase your level of skiing, you will understand what exactly is called such dead zones.

In their pursuit of perfection, fastener manufacturers are trying to reduce the area of such zones. This is achieved by reducing the base area, different manufacturers have different patented methods. Someone reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe discs, someone adapts the base of the mounts for rocker boards.

Also, in our opinion, an excellent solution is to mount special shock-absorbing pillows in the base. They, like ABS, protect you during particularly hard landings and significantly reduce the level of vibration.

straps

The straps don't just connect your foot to the binding base. In modern bindings, straps, both upper and lower, do this in a smart way. They are made of a material that remembers the shape of the boot and simplifies the buttoning process. In addition, the surface of the straps is able to perfectly distribute energy. As a result, even with the strongest fixation, the leg will not be pinched.
Most of the design decisions were focused on the construction of the lower strap. So, today there are several variations.

Strap with traditional fixation over the boot. This type of fastening can be found in all manufacturers. Of the advantages of such a system - stability, good fixation and the lowest risk of snow falling under the strap itself.

A popular version of the lower strap - cap strap. Such a strap, according to the manufacturers, better fixes the foot in the mount, pressing the boot along the length, which is very important when skiing off-piste or in the park. However, it is important to perfectly fit the strap to the boot, otherwise snow will get in, the strap will slide down and loosen the fit.

The best, in our opinion, technological solution in the construction of the lower strap is a multi strap. This means that you can mount it in two positions, at your discretion.

Riding style

One of the important parameters is the style of riding, under which it is worth choosing bindings. Among the manufacturers there is no clear gradation in style, but there are some similarities.

- Technical freestyle/freeride bindings can be called the toughest among all existing on the market. Indeed, for skiing in deep snow or strong amplitude tricks on springboards, you need the most reliable fixation.

- Jibbing mounts, on the contrary, are softer.
- All mountain bindings- the most versatile and in practice suitable for any type of riding.

Here it is worth mentioning separately fasteners from Flow. The mounting system of this company is different from all other manufacturers. This step-in-go system. So, instead of two straps, there is a single strap that covers the boot quite comfortably. The highback also folds back, making it quicker to buckle up. There are different opinions about the pros and cons of such a system. An indisputable plus is the speed and ease of fastening.

Mounting installation

So, you have already chosen the perfect pair for yourself. Now the question of installing a mount on a snowboard is relevant. You can easily do it yourself.

Please note that the board must fit the mounts, there may be inconsistencies. For example, Burton makes boards with embeds that will only fit the bindings of the same company, so you need to pay attention to it. Burton has a special EST mortgage system, though not on all boards, but you have to be careful. In extreme cases, there are special adapters for them for ordinary crepes, but this is an extra waste and inconvenience. And it should be noted that Burton bindings with the EST system are only suitable for snowboards with the same system. However, this is more the exception than the rule. Basically, manufacturers strive to make bindings that would fit absolutely any snowboard.

Rack

Which foot forward do you ride?

There is a rack "regular" - left foot forward, there is "goofy" - right. It is difficult for beginners to decide from the very beginning. You will understand your stance in the process of riding, which foot forward will be convenient for you to ride. But there is a proven way to find out at home, which works 99%. Ask to be pushed in the back. Whichever foot you put forward is the leading one. Check several times to consolidate the result.

So, you, for example, goofy. Right leg ahead of you. That is, you put the right mount closer to the nose of the snowboard.

Why so many mortgages?

To adjust the rack width. One is more comfortable with a wide stance, especially in freestyle, the other, on the contrary, is narrow. To begin with, we will put a universal middle rack and select the middle mortgages.

When installing bindings, once you've decided on your stance, you need to consider your lead foot.

The choice of mounting angles is an important aspect

To do this, look at the scale of degrees indicated on the mounts, and listen to your feelings. On average, the angle of rotation of the attachment for the back leg is about 10 degrees, for the front - 15-18 degrees, but this is a matter of taste and style of the rider. Many people prefer the so-called duck stance with the same angle for the back and front legs, which is especially good in the park when riding in a switch (not to one's side).

There is a trend among board and binding manufacturers these days to move the mounting holes back to give the board a smoother ride. In addition, the offset binding makes it easier to move through the snow without sinking or bogging down – ideal for deep snow skiing.

What mounts to buy?

The main point when buying bindings is their compatibility with your boots.

Firstly, boots and bindings must fit. Insert your boot into the binding and tighten the straps. pay attention to sock, it should not stick out much or, conversely, sink in the mount. Most models have a gas pedal that can be adjusted forward or backward depending on the size of your boot.

Also pay attention to the length of the straps, they should not be too long or too short. There should not be situations when the boot dangles and the length of the strap is too long to fix it, or, conversely, the boot is hard to fasten.

Secondly, check component compatibility. Clip your boot into the binding and take a closer look. The heel should be recessed into the angle of attachment, while the sole of the boot should stand exactly on the base, and rear end fit snugly against the highback mount.

Note. When buckling into the bindings, do not step on the straps and straps, you can break them. When transporting, assemble the highback and close the straps so as not to damage the straps.

Whether you buy gear from the same brand or a ready-made kit, you can be sure that everything will fit and work as it should, and you will not feel discomfort when riding.

When choosing fasteners, do not forget to pay attention to appearance. Today, colors and designs vary greatly, ranging from fluorescent brights to dark military colors. In addition, some manufacturers include bindings designed by famous artists, illustrators or the riders themselves in their collections. But do not forget: whatever the design of the bindings, it should reflect your personality on the slope.

For several years now, snowboarding has been officially included in the program. Olympic Games. It is worth recognizing that his popularity over the years not only has not fallen, but has increased on a cosmic scale. Trying to stand on the board and experience unprecedented excitement is a fixed idea for many people, but rare of them actually go to the store, buy a snowboard and equipment, and then, along with all their belongings, go to the snowy peaks.

These daredevils are worthy of many praises, but more than anything else, they need clear instructions that can protect them from mistakes and serious injury. Since the board is only one of the rider's tools, it is important to understand what the whole kit consists of, how to choose it and why you can not save on it. A separate line of expenses is always worth the corresponding ones, and with them special ones will allow the snowboarder to establish himself on the surface of his projectile.

Snowboard binding options

Bindings are one of the most important pieces of equipment. They do not just hold the boots, but allow the wearer to maintain balance during the descent. The main function of these products is to fully convey the efforts made by a person and directed to the board. Today, the sports market offers snowboarders several options at once, among which the following types of snowboard bindings can be distinguished:

Step fasteners are the most popular of all presented for sale. They are very simple in structure and quite reliable in operation. In fact, step fasteners are a kind of base that many manufacturers produce as a universal fastener option. They are arranged in an elementary way: the lower section of the sole is a horizontal frame platform, which smoothly passes into the aft part, which is a vertical stupor designed to hold the shoe back. This whole configuration is very tight to the boots and allows you to transfer the slightest impulses to the board. This type of binding is replete with all sorts of straps and shapes, but it still remains interesting for representatives of a wide variety of snowboarding styles.
Clips (with latches). In cases where the fasteners often have to be rearranged, separated from the shoe, the latches turn out to be the most optimal solution. Their main advantage lies in their ease of use: in order to go conquer the slopes, you just need to put your foot in the right position and snap the fasteners. Problems can arise only if the mount “flies off” and it has to be reinstalled in the direction of travel: it will be almost impossible to fix the board while being knee-deep in loose snow.
Attachments with a back that can be fixed. This invention is actually innovative and only one company, Flow, is engaged in its manufacture. If you look, then this product is a cross between a fixative and a step. It miraculously combines all the technical characteristics that are important for a snowboarder: fasteners provide reliability and are available to the consumer. Although it seems visually similar to a normal binding, practice shows that the fixation and position of the heel and front fasteners are strikingly different. The fixing heel tightly presses the shoes and guarantees complete safety for the rider.
Disc mounts are a strong frame, lever holder and steel stop. They are rightfully considered the toughest and are becoming necessary for athletes riding on high-speed tracks.
Frameless fasteners are a development mastered by far from every manufacturer. Products that appeared at the turn of the century are completely devoid of any frame, so they Bottom part practically touches the snowboard itself (the gap is calculated in millimeters). According to experts, frameless bindings provide riders with complete control over the board and, accordingly, the ability to perform the most risky maneuvers. The selection of such components should be carried out by professionals, because the slightest mistake in the size range can be fatal. The parameters of the stand are always determined purely individually, in accordance with the parameters of the snowboard.

As you can see, it's not so easy. To make the right decision, you will have to not only come to a specialized store with your shoes, but also understand the classification presented. This can be done only by deciding on your own preferences and riding style. When making a purchase, make sure that you are comfortable and convenient: the clasp does not pinch the leg, the straps are fastened without problems, there are no chips. Feel free to consult with the sellers and argue to the last, if there is even the slightest doubt. The truth is always on your side!

Boots are one of the most important things for a snowboarder. Well-fitting boots reduce the risk of injury. In addition, you can only learn to ride if your feet are comfortable in the shoes.

If the shoes are tight, then after an hour of riding in them, due to corns, you will not even be able to walk, and due to the tightness of the leg, blood circulation will be disturbed, which will lead to rapid freezing.

If they are too loose, the snowboard will not feel your commands well, which will lead to unnecessary falls.

So I recommend being wary of cheap boots - they can feel bad on the foot, be too bulky and lack some very useful qualities, such as moisture repellency, breathability, antibacterial and other properties.

Choose shoes according to stiffness
Just like snowboards, they are divided on a scale of stiffness from 1 to 10, where 1 is the softest boot and 10 is the hardest.
The level of stiffness is indicated on the label of the boots, and a consultant can also tell you. In addition, you can try to bend the sole of the boot - if it bends, then the boot is soft enough.

Soft boots - great for a beginner

Soft boots on a scale of 3 to 5 are best for learning to ride.
Also, these boots are suitable for those who perform tricks in parks, jump from small jumps, that is, for those guys who do freestyle.

Due to their softness, they forgive many mistakes, as they will not notice the wrong command. They are also quite comfortable to move on the slope.

Hard boots - contraindicated for a beginner

Boots with stiffness above 5 on the scale are designed for experienced snowboarders. Due to the rigidity, they carry out all your commands very accurately, they are designed for high speed.

Let's put on our boots!

To pull the boot on the foot, it is important to unlace it completely 100 percent. If it is difficult for the foot to enter the boot, it means that it is not fully laced.

There used to be classic laces that were simply tied into a bow. Now there are various complex systems shoe laces. Therefore, I recommend that before you leave the store with a purchase, ask the seller to teach you how to lace up your shoes.

The shoe has an inner boot that keeps you comfortable. We fasten it first. We lower the lace inside the outer boot.

After that, we tie the outer boot - it is important to firmly fix it on the leg.

Now we are trying to understand how comfortable it is for you to move around in it.
Note that the first time you put on a boot, you will most likely have a slight feeling of stiffness, and it will seem to you that you are walking like a robot. This is completely normal, as the stiffness of the boot prevents you from fully extending your leg.

If you don’t feel any pain when you move in shoes, you don’t feel any backlash between your foot and boot, the heel doesn’t “walk”, the toe doesn’t press, then these shoes are right for you.

We picked up the boots and now we move on to the choice of bindings

Mounts are also divided into hard and soft.
Choose soft bindings! They are suitable for both beginners and those who do tricks or like to ride on powder - loose snow.

Rigid bindings are suitable for sports carving or slalom riding.

There are 3 main types of fasteners: strap, step in and flow.

Strap attachments - great for a beginner

These fastenings fix the boot with straps at the bottom and at the top.
I recommend choosing classic bindings with straps for all snowboarders:
- they are the most popular, so they are easy to find in every store.
- they securely hold the leg and will not unfasten in motion (unless, of course, you bought a very cheap option);
- it is easiest for a beginner to deal with them, because it is intuitively clear how to fasten them.

The second type of flow fastening is not prohibited for a beginner

The flow fastenings are fastened with straps, while the boot enters the fastening by folding down the back wall - highback.
From the point of view of my experience, this design of mounts is not very convenient, but everything here is not for everybody.

This type of binding does not have any straps or other fasteners, except for a latch on the base, to which the boot is attached with a special bolt. To buckle up, you just need to stand on the mounts and the boot will snap into place.
You don't even have to bend over to zip up. Therefore, Step in is great for lazy people :)

But at the same time, such fasteners are dangerous. If snow gets into them, then there is a great chance that they will unfasten while driving.

How to try on a boot to the binding?

In order for the snowboard to follow your commands well, the bindings must fit snugly and evenly and secure the boots. To do this, it is important that the size of the boots matches the size of the bindings so that there is no play between them.

- We determine whether the selected boot fits the binding in size

We put the boot as close as possible to the back wall of the mount. You can even “hammer” it a little deeper with your hand.
We first fasten the upper strap - the boot will completely “sink” in the mount. Then we fix the lower strap, which will secure the leg completely.

If you try to do the opposite, you will not be able to fasten the upper strap properly - the boot will hold the lower binding.

- Mount size adjustment

The toe of the boot should not protrude beyond the binding or be closer to the middle.
The binding usually has a stand with which you can adjust the size of the binding to fit your boot. It is enough to unscrew the bolt that holds the stand, move it to the desired level forward or backward and fix it with a bolt in this position.

- Adjust the angle of inclination of the back wall of the boot mount

With the help of the rear wall of the binding (Highback), we control the snowboard - we enter the turns.
Initially, we select it according to the angle of your boot. That is, we substitute the boot to the mount, tilt the back wall along the boot so that there are no backlashes and fix it in this position.
Each mount has its own adjustment and fixation system. How to use it, it is better to check with the sales assistant.

How to screw fasteners to the board?

The choice of the position of the bindings depends on which foot forward you will be more comfortable riding. Until you know it, I recommend screwing the mounts in the universal position - 12 degrees.

Pull the stand out of the mount. You will see a threaded hole.

Take special discs for this hole.
The disks are marked with degrees from 0 to 45. An arrow is drawn on the mount itself - this is 0 degrees.

We put the disk in the hole to position 0 and twist it up to 12 degrees, that is, we direct the value of 12 on the disk to the arrow on the mount, and make sure that the front parts of the mounts look outward (from the center of the snowboard).

We fix the fasteners in this position with bolts (should be included). For this you will need a Phillips screwdriver.
We return the stand back to the mount.

We do the same with the second mount.

If you already know which foot you are going to ride with, then set it to 15 degrees on the front leg and 6 degrees on the back.

Congratulations, we have assembled the first snowboard!

Music used in video:
Egon The Band & Olivia & Francine - Olivia Is Mope