Round concrete pool. How to build a pool with your own hands - we make a concrete pool in the country (detailed instructions). Reinforcing mesh manufacturing

Concrete pools are the most reliable. How long your pool will last depends on how well it will be waterproofed. In general, with the correct calculation, the strength of reinforced concrete is sufficient to hold the mass of water and to compensate for the heaving forces of the soil.

Before the widespread use of polymer-cement compositions, in the construction of a concrete pool, a steel caisson was first made, to which reinforcement was then welded. But there were problems. Firstly, it is difficult for steel sheets to give the required rigidity, they are difficult to withstand variable loads from waves formed in the pool. As a result, the tiles often fall off the walls. Secondly, the sheets are welded together, and the welding spots quickly rust and collapse at high humidity. And thirdly, metal and concrete have different thermal expansions, which contributes to the rapid destruction of walls. But since there was no alternative, they built it just like that.

Examples of mortars and additives that are used in the construction of concrete pools

Today, there are additives that make the concrete walls of the pool impervious to water - they do not absorb or let water through. There are additives that simultaneously improve the adhesion to the rebar and make it more durable. There are solutions for sealing a cold seam, which is formed at the junction of the bottom and walls: the joint is treated with a composition for better adhesion, and a special cord is laid, which expands upon contact with water. Then all this is additionally coated with a waterproof sealant.

There are also water-repellent compounds for plastering, tiling and grouting. All these measures together give the bowl of the concrete pool a high degree of tightness. Making a concrete pool with your own hands using this technology is not particularly problematic. There will be a lot of work, but the costs are less than with caisson technology.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to decide on the size and depth of the pool. For adults, a comfortable depth is about 1.5 meters. Swimming is comfortable with a length of at least 5 meters, and how many lanes there will be is your choice (the width of one is 1.5 meters). You also need to decide how the upper edge of the pool will be located relative to the ground - at the same level (fully buried) or higher (partially buried).

In addition to size, decide on the shape. If the construction experience is small, the simpler the form, the better. Mostly they make rectangular or oval pools. But in addition to the main perimeter, it will be necessary to make a pit on one side. This is a small structure, which has a greater depth than the main bowl. There are pipes from the bottom drain or nozzles from the sides. Often there is also the equipment necessary for maintaining the pool (filter, heater, chlorine generator, etc.).

Find out the size and shape, find a place on the site. It is desirable that large trees do not grow nearby, there are no tall buildings that will block the sun. Trees are still constantly shedding foliage or color, so they add more work when maintaining the pool.

To place a pool on the site plan, it is desirable to know at what distance the groundwater is located in this place. This is very important information that is necessary to determine the measures for waterproofing the pool bowl. If you already have geodetic studies, then be sure to check with them. The bowl should be placed on the most “dry” area - so that the waters are as deep as possible. If there is no plan, it would be very good to order geodetic surveys. And plan according to their results.

Otherwise, you will have to navigate the terrain. Estimate where the neighbors have wells or wells, at what depth the water is in them. Approximately determine the area with the lowest location of groundwater. Plan the pit there. But this is a very risky undertaking.

Excavation

On the ground, apply the dimensions of the pit - it should be 60-80 cm wider and longer. Maybe the dimensions will be larger - you will need to put spacers under the formwork. Dimensions are marked with pegs, twine is pulled between them. The depth of the pit will be 40-50 cm more than planned: a place for backfilling and a bottom slab, plaster, finishing.

You can dig by hand or with the use of machinery. If you can master the work with your own hands - this is for small concrete pools - you can save. If there is no time or energy, it is easier to hire an excavator. In terms of money, he will cost the same as the work of a brigade of "diggers", and in time he will do the job faster.

Filling under the bottom plate

At this stage, a pipe for bottom drainage of water is laid - if such is provided. It is displayed in the pit at a slight angle. If the pool area is large, one drain hole will not be enough. You need two or three. Accordingly, you dig trenches, lay pipes at a slight slope towards the pit.

After these works, the bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed. In this case, a slight slope towards the bottom drains is formed. Then roll out a layer of geotextile along the bottom. It makes the base more durable, prevents the formation of cracks. In addition, it does not allow the soil to mix with the bedding, without interfering with the removal of water. Geotextile strips are laid with an overlap, with a 15-20 cm approach.

Foundation preparation - laying drainage pipes, pipes under the bottom drain, then leveling the base with a slope towards the drain. From above, everything is covered with rubble and sand

Next up is waterproofing. Choose the material of your choice. The cheapest are roofing material or plastic wrap. It is undesirable to use the film, it is torn during work. Roofing material is more reliable, it is rolled out with an overlap of 15 cm. At least two layers must be made, the seams of one must overlap with the other.

Then a layer of gravel is poured - 20 cm, rammed to density with a vibrating plate. Sand is poured on top - a layer of 15 cm. It is shed and rammed. The base for the bottom plate is ready.

Bottom plate reinforcement

A low formwork is placed along the perimeter of the bottom of the future pool. It outlines the contours of the pool. Only the dimensions of the bottom are better to be made 20-40 cm larger. So the base will better resist heaving forces.

Inside the formwork is laid. Use ribbed rods with a diameter of 10 to 14 mm. Ten millimeters are suitable if the soils are not loose and the depth is shallow. The more difficult the soil and the greater the depth of the pool, the thicker the reinforcement is needed.

For round sections, 10 mm reinforcement is used - it is in bays, and it is easier to make rounded shapes out of it. And in order not to lose strength at the same time, the step between the bars is reduced.

There should be two levels of reinforcement: the first is 5 cm above the bottom edge of the slab, the second is 5 cm below the top edge. The thickness of the slab is usually 20 cm, so the distance between two levels of reinforcement is 10 cm.

The step of laying reinforcement at the bottom is 20 cm. The entire area will be in a cage of 20 * 20 cm. To withstand 5 cm from the edge of the slab, it is necessary to lay the bars on some kind of supports. You can use brick halves, or you can use special coasters.

This is how the reinforcing belt of a concrete pool looks “in profile”

Each intersection is tied with a special knitting wire. Then vertical racks are tied there, which hold the second tier of reinforcement.

Along the edges of the slab, where the walls will subsequently be erected, the reinforcement bars are bent upwards, in the form of the letter “G”. Vertical rods are subsequently tied to them. This ensures the required strength of the connection. They are left hanging, and later used to create a reinforced belt for walls.

Filling the bottom with concrete

After the reinforcing belt is connected, you can start concreting. Concrete is used with additives that give water-repellent properties and improve strength characteristics. The solution can be ordered and delivered to your site by an automixer.

It will be cheaper to do it yourself - in a concrete mixer. But the work will take a lot of time, and you can’t take breaks. The pouring must be continuous so that the edges of the previously laid mortar do not have time to “grab”. You need to work, at least together - one lays out, levels, the second - prepares a new batch.

The outer wall of the formwork can be placed before the start of reinforcement

When laying, it is necessary to avoid the formation of voids - there should be no air in the thickness of the concrete. To do this, use a special vibration unit or an ordinary pole, which is used to pierce the solution, swaying from side to side. Since the bottom must be strong, it is advisable to use a vibrator: you will not achieve the required density with a sixth.

The solution should cover the upper reinforcing belt by at least 5 cm. To make it easier to navigate, set the beacons on vertically raised wall reinforcements or on the formwork.

After the solution is laid out, compacted and leveled, the plate is covered with plastic wrap and left to gain strength. The term of "aging" depends on the additives used and the weather - on temperature and humidity. On average it is 4-10 days.

building walls

All embedded elements are mounted in the walls. These are pipes for water intake and supply nozzles, holes for installing spotlights (if the pool is illuminated), as well as channels for supplying electricity.

The next stage of work is the construction of formwork for the walls. It can be made from edged boards or from moisture-resistant plywood and OSB (thickness not less than 21 mm). The crate will need to be supported - the solution will create a noticeable pressure. To prevent boards or plywood from failing or arching, spacers are made both inside and outside.

Formwork made of sheet material is fastened with metal studs, which prevent the sheets from falling apart. Outside, they are supported by boards set at an angle and fixed with struts. Read about the manufacture of formwork in the article The creation for the foundation is described, but the frame for the walls of the pool is no different, except perhaps in height, and even then not always.

After the formwork is ready and strengthened, a waterproof solution is poured. Everything is exactly the same as when pouring the bottom plate. After the concrete has gained the required strength, the auxiliary frame is removed and the surface is plastered. Your concrete pool is already shaped, and you did it yourself. It remains to put it in order and install the equipment.

Plastering

First, a plaster metal mesh is fixed on the finished concrete wall. They work with a solution with waterproof qualities. You can either buy ready-made mixtures, or add appropriate additives to the standard composition. They are added strictly according to the norm, since excess can only harm.

For plastering the walls of the pool, you can use the following composition: cement M-500 (1 part), sand (2 parts), latex additive, microfiber (according to manufacturers' standards). Microfiber will serve as reinforcement and increase the strength of the layer, the latex additive will give elasticity and make the composition water-repellent. As a result, the plaster will not have increased resistance to cracking.

After leveling the walls, you can mount the embedded parts - the nozzles themselves are installed and, until now, plums, backlight spotlights. They are sealed with special cords, then the joints are additionally coated with sealants. To ensure greater tightness, sand or cement is poured onto the applied sealant.

After plastering, mortgages are inserted - nozzles, plums, spotlights, etc.

Waterproofing

Liquid is applied to the plastered walls of the pool bowl. coating waterproofing. Moreover, it is desirable - on a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 * 5 mm.

If groundwater is located close, the walls must be prepared more seriously before applying liquid waterproofing. The walls are coated with a penetrating primer with water-repellent properties OSMOSEAL. It will not allow groundwater to seep through.

There is also a composition with increased elastic properties - UNOLASTIC. Applied with a layer of 1 mm, it withstands cracks up to 2.5 mm. First, the surface is treated with a penetrating primer, after drying, the elastic composition is applied with a spatula.

Outside, the pool bowl is also covered with liquid or built-up waterproofing. And it is possible - and that, and another.

Before finishing, you can check the quality of waterproofing work. To do this, they draw water into the pool, mark its level on the wall. Leave for 12-14 days. If during this time there is no noticeable decrease in the level, the waterproofing is done with high quality.

Laying tiles is also part of the waterproofing work for a monolithic pool. Glue is used with water-repellent properties, as well as grout for joints. Another finishing option is to use a PVC film welded to the dimensions of your pool.

thermal insulation

Most of the pools require water heating: the mass of water is large, even if there is sun, it is not enough to heat up to comfortable temperature. For this, special water heaters are used, which are paired with a water treatment system.

But, if you do not make the thermal insulation of the bowl, the cost of electricity for heating will be large, and the efficiency will be low: the heat will go into the ground. Therefore, after waterproofing, a layer of heat insulator is laid. The insulation may be sprayed. Work in this case will take several hours, but you will need to hire specialists.

Slab insulation can be laid independently. Recommended - polystyrene foam. It has excellent performance characteristics, besides it also has water-repellent properties. For summer use, a thickness of 5 cm will be enough. It is only desirable to lay thinner sheets in two layers so that the seams are blocked. Lubricate the seams with water-repellent mastic. The density of polystyrene is not less than 35 kg/m 3 . In this case, it will also partially compensate for the heaving forces.

backfilling

If the soil is not fluffy, in the gap between the pool wall and the bottom of the pit, you can fill up and compact the previously excavated rock. Otherwise, it is better to fall asleep with gravel. It will partially compensate for winter heaving. In general, for the winter in outdoor pools, water is drained only below the level of nozzles and skimmers. Frozen ice partially compensates for the pressure from the ground. And so that the ice does not destroy the walls, plastic eggplants are thrown into the water, which should be about half flooded (you can pour a little sand). When the ice freezes, they take on most of the load. The walls remain intact.

Conclusion

Building a concrete pool with your own hands is an undertaking for a month or two, or even more. It depends on how much time you can devote to the construction site, how many assistants you will have. We have described the "correct" technology. But it guarantees a long life to the pool without cracks and leaks.

One very interesting version of a concrete stepped pool, which is built in the country with your own hands, see the video.

The desire to have an artificial reservoir in your own home is familiar to many owners of suburban real estate. It is so nice to splash in the clear and cool water of your own pool on a hot summer day. Water perfectly relaxes the body and relieves fatigue after a busy day.

Do-it-yourself swimming pool construction will help to solve this problem. It has long been recognized that swimming cures many diseases of the musculoskeletal system, improves immunity, helps to get rid of excess weight and just makes you feel better. The presence of its own reservoir emphasizes the viability of its owner and serves as a sign of well-being.

Determining the location of the pool

At the first stage of the construction of the pool, it is necessary to decide where to place it. In resolving this issue important condition is an elegant combination with the overall design of the house and the entire site as a whole. It is also necessary to ensure that the pool is located near the water supply and the drain well, which is necessary for regular cleaning and water supply of the artificial reservoir. After all, long hoses throughout the site will cause a lot of inconvenience.

Do-it-yourself pool construction is recommended to be carried out in an open sunny area. This is necessary for constant heating of the water. To partially protect the reservoir from the wind, you can place it next to the house or along a high concrete fence. But the pool cannot be located very close to the house. First, no one is immune from leaks. Secondly, pouring over the edge, water can get into the basement and even wash away the foundation of the house.

The best platform for the pool will be clay soil. In case of violation of the waterproofing, the clay will stop the leakage of water.

You should also not place the pool near trees and shrubs. Constant falling leaves will clog the water. This will cause constant cleaning of the pool.

Before the construction of the pool, it is not enough to decide only on its location. The choice of the shape and size of the reservoir is also an important point. The ideal size for a country pool will be a small pond 4x4 m. With regards to the shape, it is better to give preference simple options: square, circle, rectangle. After determining the necessary parameters, equipment, tools and materials for the construction of the pool are purchased.

What materials are needed for the construction of the pool:

Small gravel.
Sand.
Cement.
Ruberoid.
Fittings.
Formwork boards.
Wire.
Sealant.
Bars.
hydrophilic rubber.
Plaster mortar.
Facing tiles.

Equipment

For the construction of the pool, it is necessary to calculate the following systems:

water heating (optional);
disinfection;
filtration;
water supply and drainage.

According to the filtration system, pools are divided into two types:

skimmer;
overflow.

In the first case, special devices are installed in the pools - skimmers, which are able to take the top layer of water, which is the dirtiest. To replenish the tanks with water, holes are located along the perimeter of the walls.

Overflow systems involve the pouring of water from the pool into the side gutters, which are on the same level with the sides. Purified and disinfected water this case comes from the bottom of the tank.

When using high-quality filtration stations with additional filters, their installation is carried out immediately. Such filtration systems take up a lot of space, their location is thought out in advance.

Antibacterial water treatment is prerequisite to maintain a healthy water environment. Active oxygen, chlorine, bromine and hydrogen peroxide can be successfully used to kill bacteria. Ultraviolet installations and ozonation also qualitatively purify water.

For the construction of the pool, you can also use the following decor elements:

sculptures;
handrails;
stairs and more.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a pool

The construction of the pool consists of several stages. To concrete pool was safe, comfortable and beautiful, all stages must be thought out in advance. To do this, as a rule, they draw a drawing and perform work strictly according to the scheme.

Pit preparation

Internal waterproofing of the pool

Since water has a destructive effect on materials, the entire resulting structure must be protected from moisture. For internal waterproofing pool walls there are many different materials and methods. But the study of their advantages and disadvantages encourages to give preference to the most economical and reliable method of protection - coated insulation.

But before applying the insulating material, it is necessary to plaster the walls of the pool, and apply a self-levelling mixture to the floor surface. After all surfaces have dried, the concrete bowl is cleaned of debris and dirt.

For the arrangement of internal waterproofing during the construction of the pool, it is not enough just to apply a coating material to its surface. Much attention is paid to the joints between the walls and the bottom of the tank. To prevent leaks in these places, hydrophilic rubber is used, which is attached with a sealant. The material expands when exposed to moisture.

Before applying the waterproofing material, the bottom and walls of the pool are treated with a primer. Next, water is added to the dry waterproofing mixture, the solution mixes well. The resulting material is applied with a brush to the inner surface of the pool. The thickness of the waterproofing layer should be approximately 3-4 mm.

Pool wall and floor cladding

For facing the internal surfaces of the pool, the following materials are used:

ceramic tile;
mosaic;
porcelain tile.

If a wooden deck with railings is built at the exit from the pool, then sun loungers can be placed on it. Attach folding seats and tables to the railing. The area next to the pool, landscaped in this way, will be an excellent place for guests and owners to relax. And if you add kebabs and soft drinks to all this charm? Your holiday will be unique.

Building a pool from a finished bowl

The bowl sinks to the bottom of the pit.
Necessary communications are installed. The protective sleeve is put on the pipes and fixed with adhesive tape (to avoid displacement during concreting).
To prevent the composite or plastic bowl from bending under the weight of concrete, spacers are installed inside it.
Reinforcement is installed around the entire perimeter and formwork is placed.
Concrete is poured as follows: the bowl is filled with water by 30-40 cm, concrete is poured to the same height. After the solution hardens, water is again poured into the bowl, the formwork is filled with concrete. The concrete layer must be brought to the surface of the earth.
The formwork is removed a day after pouring.
The voids left after the removal of the formwork are filled with sand and compacted with water.

It remains only to fill the pool clean water and enjoy warm, pleasant water.

concrete pool- this is an expensive, time-consuming and complex hydraulic structure, the durability of which tends to reach the mark of 100 years. Of course, this prospect depends on the project, the quality of the building material and compliance with modern technologies.

It can be assembled from separate elements or be a monolith, in any case a multilayer structure is required. external and internal waterproofing. The concrete pool belongs to classic look reinforced concrete structures, but allows for countless modifications with the addition of curves, cascades, waterfalls, hydromassage and artificial flow.

To choose, you need to know ...

Concrete pools vary in appearance. These differences may be related:

with location (indoor, outdoor, side by side, with sun canopy);
with size (for decorative accent, for dipping, for splashing, for swimming);
with a shape (rectangular, round, oval, polygonal, figured);
according to the method of arranging the bowl (prefabricated, cast, monolithic);
by design features (overflow or skimmer).

Which pool is better composite or concrete?

Along with concrete, for the construction of pools are widely used composite materials- these are modern artificial analogues that combine the advantages of two or more materials, while neutralizing their shortcomings. The oldest of this line of building materials is reinforced concrete (reinforcement increases tensile strength, but the concrete mass protects the reinforcement metal from corrosion). The principle of reinforcement is successfully used to create especially strong polymers.

Composite materials, as a result, convincingly prove to reinforced concrete their advantage in strength, in addition, they are cheaper. However, products made from such materials, while retaining their main dignity- strength, cannot maintain the constancy of dimensions (they bend). And this complicates the process of pairing them with other structural elements and materials.

And one more minus composite materials: the probability of scratches received during operation, which are rather difficult to eliminate - the entire pool bowl needs to be repaired. The durability of the composite material does not prevent it from aging under the influence of chemicals and ultraviolet rays, which affects its appearance and the appearance of micropores that allow spores of micro-algae and fungi to pass through.

But the main problem of such pools is the limited form and color solutions. Here is the answer: about the benefits composite pool compared to concrete.

main building material

Of course, it's concrete, mostly brand M350 - M400. At the same time, the index of frost resistance is recommended - F100, and water resistance - W6. To model a concrete bowl for a pool with your own hands, use heavy concretes with plasticizers and hydrophobic additives of well-known brands. The special density of concrete is achieved by vibrating (using a vibrator) and vacuuming (vacuum pump), which reduces the size of the capillaries and insures the product from shells.

The composition of concrete for the pool. You can prepare concrete yourself according to the following recipe (per 1 cubic meter):

600 kg of cement 400 grade;
1,600 kg sand of medium granulation;
60 kg microsilica;
0.8 tons of fiber;
1 kg of plasticizer;
water-cement ratio = 0.3.

The mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer, starting with water.

As an option - the ability to order the finished mixture from industrial enterprises. Such supplies are very common in the Moscow region.

Compliance with technology is a guarantee of quality and durability

How to make a concrete pool with your own hands? The concrete pool construction technology includes the mandatory following steps:

Project development.
Foundation preparation.
Installation of embedded elements.
Formwork device.
Reinforcement of the prepared pit.
Step by step concreting.
Waterproofing device.
Finishing work and decoration of the adjacent territory.

In practice, two options for the technological solution for concreting the pool bowl are used:

creating a monolith using formwork;
pouring concrete into a structure made of polystyrene foam blocks.

Technology and stages of construction of a concrete pool

Stages of construction (photo and video) of a concrete pool for a summer cottage with your own hands (pit, bowl arrangement, coating, etc.):

At the heart of any type of construction is project- a documentary embodiment of the intent of the customer and the contractor, containing drawings, calculations, architectural solutions, the results of geodetic surveys, estimates and other documentation.

The project can be developed by specialized organizations, but it can also be author's if the construction is carried out for oneself and independently. Projects are divided into standard and individual. An example of a typical concrete pool project can even be found on the Internet.

The beginning of the development of the project is to determine the location for the object and the site for construction. When building a concrete pool, information about the depth of groundwater is very important (located close to the surface, they will soon destroy the bottom of even a monolithic structure).

It is important to decide on the dimensions - the power of the water supply and filtration system and your material costs depend on them.

Security measures and distance from trees that will clog the pool bath with fallen leaves should be provided.

It is worth considering that the construction of a rectangular shape will be the most economical and simple in execution.

The next step after design is pit preparation. It should contain the pool bowl, sand and gravel filling and external waterproofing, but not be lower than the foundation of the adjacent house. Therefore, the calculation of the depth of the pit is done in advance, taking into account all the constituent quantities.

The marking of the pit is carried out using a cord and pegs with an allowance of dimensions of 40-60 cm. To avoid shedding of the walls, they are made at a slope of 3 degrees to the outside.

The bottom of the pit is leveled and carefully compacted, creating a slight slope for draining, then it is covered with a layer of sand of 30 cm and 10 cm of gravel (drainage cushion).

Even before concrete work, a drain pipe is installed at an angle of 5 degrees with a valve at the outlet end. For a drain around the perimeter of the pit, a system is mounted from PVC pipes with drainage wells on the folds. Water is subsequently pumped out with special pumps.

A lean cement screed is made on the compacted backfill. After it has set, a layer of primary waterproofing is laid from sheets of roofing material (overlapping up to 15 cm). The sheets are rolled out to the full height of the walls of the pit. The places where the strips overlap are smeared with bituminous mastic or soldered with an industrial hair dryer. Drain pipes are installed.

At this stage, laid water supply pipes(anywhere in the future bowl).

The reinforcement of the pit is carried out carefully so as not to damage the waterproofing, in two stages: with 2 layers of mesh along the bottom of the pit (with cells 20x20) and along the walls, deepening the curved ends of the rods (14 mm in diameter) into the bottom mesh system. The above-ground part is reinforced with 3 layers of mesh.

Pool wall formwork it is made of boards, plywood, timber or corrugated board with tightening its surface from the inside with a film.

It is important to maintain the verticality of the formwork and strengthen its ability to withstand concrete pressure. The ends of the reinforcement should be slightly below the top edge of the formwork.

Concreting process it is desirable to perform at a time, pouring the bottom with concrete, and then the space between the formwork and the wall of the pit (the thickness of the concrete in this place should be up to 30 cm).

Using a vibrator will improve the quality of the fill. At the same time, a continuous supply of concrete from the truck mixer is ensured. This technology can only be provided by firms specializing in pouring concrete, and it will cost the customer more.

Second way: Filling in two steps. In this case, a hydrophobic self-expanding cord (2.5-3.5 cm in cross section) is used, which is laid at the junction of the hardened and new concrete. When moistened, it increases in volume by 6 times and eliminates the possibility of the formation of "cold joints" that are not able to maintain tightness. At the same time, first of all, the bottom is concreted, and then the vertical walls of the bowl. The joints before concreting are thoroughly cleaned of dust and crumbs.

After the main concrete work, additional elements are poured, such as entrance steps, seats. This is followed by a technological break from 10 to 20 days (depending on the size of the pool).

Then the formwork is removed, and the surface of the bowl is leveled with a layer of up to 4 cm latex mixtures with the addition of plasticizers. At this stage, embedded elements are mounted: bottom drain, skimmer, nozzles.

Coming milestone devices internal waterproofing, which is carried out using an elastic one- or two-component mixture (in two layers) over an adhesive primer or PVC film.

For the strength of the layer, reinforcement with a synthetic mesh is used. The waterproofing of embedded elements is especially carefully performed. The second technological break is carried out, and, finally, hydrotesting, flooding the pool with water to the very edge for 2-14 days.

Pool Finish depends on the taste and material capabilities of the customer.

This type of work is carried out after the final drying of the bowl, and for it tile or mosaic coating technology is used, or PVC film finishing, which can have any color shades and imitate the pattern of stone, marble, mosaic. A geotextile is glued under the film, and the cutting of the film is welded with a special hair dryer at a temperature of 600 ° C.

It is also possible to paint the inner surface with a two-component epoxy paint of the TEMAFLOOR 50 brand, applied with a roller with a layer of 0.05-0.1 mm. On the 7th day the pool is ready for use. As a paint and varnish coating (according to the method of application), a universal polyurethane coating is suitable - "Fortified-Universal", which forms a durable waterproofing membrane.

It is worth noting that after the cold season, the coating will probably have to be renewed.

And here is a video on how to build a concrete pool in the country with your own hands, pouring.

Video on how to pour a pool of concrete.

And another video on how to build a concrete pool.

A crack in concrete cannot be an irreparable disaster.

How to repair a concrete pool? How to fix a crack? If such a misfortune has already happened, do not despair. There are two ways to eliminate the trouble: injection of a mortar or semi-viscous resin into the cavity of the crack, or manual sealing. For this:

tap the crack to remove weak concrete;
remove the cement layer on both sides of the crack by 300 mm;
smear the crack with 3 layers of epoxy, filling it completely.

How to paint a concrete pool? What to cover? How to update a concrete pool? This is the next video.

Ingenuity for weapons

If there is no money for a large pool and space on the site, you can do it yourself a cute bathing suit at the bathhouse or a decorative pond from concrete rings. And for this you will need one standard reinforced concrete ring and a lifting mechanism capable of lowering it into the pit.

Everything else - according to the technology of the device of a concrete pool. True, it will not have a filtration system, but with such a volume of water, chemicals can be dispensed with. But such a baby pool is easy to operate and repair and regularly solves its functional tasks.

Each a dream must come true! The dream of your own pool can be realized with your own hands: build it out of concrete!

Detailed instructions on how to make a concrete pool with your own hands will become an assistant in planning future work and estimating construction costs. An important point will ensure efficient system water supply and filtration. Do not forget about the installation of heating and electrical supply systems.

Recently, getting a pool has become easier.

The construction technique is quite simple, there is always the opportunity to make a choice of an option suitable for any person.

So, how to make a concrete pool?

DIY design choice

At the very beginning of construction, you need to decide on the shape, choose the location and type of the pool.

Construction option big pool, made with a concrete bowl casting and with an installed water filtration and heating system. This technology is available at its high cost, it is possible to use it for a small garden pond or for children.

When choosing the shape of the pool are guided by the following factors:

It is necessary to determine a place for a pool. It is important to remember that it is necessary to retreat at least 1 m from the building, at least 5 m from the tree.

aesthetic appearance;
functionality;
features of landscape design;
location of the house;
complexity of implementation.

The more complex the shape of the pool, the more difficult the process of pouring a concrete bath will be. As for the place where the reservoir will be located, it is necessary to have a free site that will significantly exceed the future size of the pool, because underground communications will require the arrangement of a technical room where the hydraulic installation will be located, which is responsible for the uninterrupted operation of the pool.

We must not forget that in winter the pools need to drain the water or heat it. Otherwise, the water may freeze, causing the concrete bath to burst. A drainage pit must be present in the water drain, located below the level of the bottom of the pool. This solution will be more optimal than a sewer device.

Continuous serves in order not to change the water. Before constructing a concrete pool, it is necessary to weigh the cost of providing heating and replacing water, which will be a liter of water in the pool plus 20% of the water consumption by evaporation. Heating the pool requires at least 2000 watts per day. The calculation is given for a pool of 3x6 m and a depth of 3 m with a water requirement of 55 tons.

The thickness of the walls depends on the area of the pool.

Construction should begin with digging a foundation pit. The location must be provided with access for heavy equipment. If the pit is small, then it can be dug by hand. In the absence of the possibility of creating an entrance for equipment, it is necessary to limit the size of the pool.

It is not recommended to arrange a concrete pool near trees, as it will quickly become clogged and require a canopy. You also need to consider that the concrete bath must be located above the level of groundwater leakage: they can lead to damage to the concrete bowl. The location of the pool in an open space where the shadow does not fall is more suitable for countries with a cool climate. This placement makes it possible to achieve better heating of the water without additional energy costs and extend the bathing season.

Determine the shape of the concrete pool based on the size of the bowl and the technical room, not forgetting the availability of free space on the site. After calculating the technical size of the pool, you can proceed to the design features of the landscape and aesthetic preferences.

In addition to tools and materials, it is necessary to purchase equipment for water treatment and water heating in advance.

Pools look great outdoors at a certain distance from the trees. If the house is located on a hill, it will be optimal to place the pool in the direction of the natural panorama, this will give an additional effect.

During the selection of the form, the pool types are taken into account.

The overflow pool with the help of a special design makes it possible to draw water into the pool to the brim. An overflow gutter is installed along the entire perimeter of the pool, where water is collected, which overflows over the edges, entering the storage unit, then into the filtration and heating system, and then through the holes in the bottom of the concrete bowl back into the pool. This creates a natural circulation of water. This type is more expensive than skimmers. The overflow system provides a better water cycle, and, accordingly, better purification, which is essential for large water complexes.

Skimmer pools are widely used for private construction. In such types, the water level should be 15-20 cm below the edges of the pool. Water is taken into the filtration system through holes - skimmers located on the side walls closer to the surface, since this is the dirtiest part of the water. The filtered water passes through the holes, which are located opposite the skimmer holes.

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Do-it-yourself concrete bowl construction technology

The depth of the pool is determined based on the purpose of its use: for swimming, a depth of up to 1.5 m is sufficient, if you want to dive from a personal tower, then the depth should be increased to 2.5 m.

Construction begins with a breakdown of the site and project modeling. The design of the pool should include its design and the design of technical rooms and tanks where the necessary devices are installed. During the construction process, it is not allowed to touch the foundations of existing buildings.

All capital structures on the land plot require prior approval from the competent authorities. You can carry out the procedure for legalizing the structure, but you need to evaluate your capabilities and costs in the first and second options.

To complete the construction, you need to draw up or have available the following documents:

ownership of the plot to be built;
project of the pool and additional premises;
master plan for the development of the site;
permission from the competent authorities for construction (in some cases, the consent of the neighbors may be required).

Restriction for may be the presence of engineering communications in the ground. From this it follows that the optimal depth of the pool will be 1.5 m. It ensures the safety of swimming. In the case of diving towers, the depth of the pool increases to 2.30 m.

The marking of the pool is carried out using guide strings. The size of the pit must be 0.5 m larger on both sides. The thickness of the concrete walls increases with the size of the pool. For a structure with a size of 6x3 m, the walls are made 0.4 m thick, for smaller pools - 0.3 m.

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Preparatory stage

For a skimmer type 3x6 m in size without arranging a technical room, a pit 4x7 m with a depth of 2.7 m is required. It is necessary to provide technical rooms next to the pool.

It should be borne in mind that the height of the technical premises should be commensurate with the height of a person, while the floors of the boiler room should be located below the level of the pool. The presence of premises around the perimeter will protect the structure from the effects of expanding soils in the winter. The device is only suitable for large pools.

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Do-it-yourself pit drainage device

In order for the concrete bath not to sag, reinforced concrete piles are laid on the sand.

When digging a pit, it is necessary to take into account that the walls of the pit are inclined 4-6 degrees to the other side in relation to the pool. This method avoids shedding of soil during work. The bottom is made with a slope to the drainage pit.

It will not be superfluous to consider auxiliary drainage of the pit for the construction period. To fulfill this condition, a small depression breaks out in the middle and is covered with rubble. At the next stage, a sand cushion 0.2-0.3 m thick is arranged at the bottom of the pit, which is carefully compacted. Gravel is poured over the sand with a ball thickness of 6 to 10 cm.

In order to prevent uneven subsidence of the concrete bath in the event of deformation of the pillow, reinforced concrete piles are laid on the sand.

Build your own pool and enjoy it all summer long - these thoughts are now driving you. In addition, your kids will also be crazy about the joy that a small pool of cool water will give them on a hot day. And today we will look at how to build a concrete pool with our own hands, what are its advantages and disadvantages, and for whom it will be an ideal option.

What you need to know first

Before building anything, you need to understand the design features, its advantages and disadvantages, as well as similar options. Perhaps concrete is far from the most ideal option for you, and it would be much more rational to install, for example, a frame pool.

Let's first consider the positive aspects of this material for the construction of artificial reservoirs.

The most rigid construction of the pool is obtained from concrete;
Freedom of choice. You can build a bowl of any size, depth and shape;
Possibility of installation of any additional equipment. You can mount hydromassage, and so on;
Concrete is the most durable material of all similar for the construction of tanks;
Large selection of finishes and decorations;
In general, a concrete pool looks more prestigious than all the others.

Now about the shortcomings of this material.

Extended construction time. If you build a reservoir in the spring, then you can enjoy the cool water in it only in the middle of summer;
High price. How much exactly? We will talk about this in more detail below;
Not the most service-friendly option.
For self-installation, you need to have skills in construction and experience with tools.

As we can see, even concrete bowls are not without flaws, in principle, like all other options. This option is suitable for someone who is not going to save on the construction of an artificial reservoir and wants to install maximum amount additional devices to increase comfort and decoration.

So, if you have decided that a concrete pool is what you need, then read on.

Concrete pool device

A pool with a concrete bowl device does not differ much from other types. It has the same systems that do the necessary work to keep the water in the right condition.

Concrete pool systems:

Pump;
Temperature control devices;
Filters of various types.

It is also possible to install additional devices:

Automatic dispensers of chemicals;
contour;
Hydromassage, counter flow, waterfalls, fountains;
Slides, trampolines and other attractions.

Holes for nozzles for the intake and return of water to the bowl are installed immediately when pouring concrete. Next, a circuit is connected to them, consisting of a pump, filter and heater. How to connect this equipment depends on your conditions and device models. After installing the circular circuit, consider that the pool is ready for use.

You can install additional equipment after the completion of all construction work, but it is still better to think everything over in advance and do it in one go.

Now let's look at each stage in great detail.

Let's start construction

We divided the process of building a concrete pool with our own hands into several steps. The result is a detailed guide that will help you do everything yourself.

Construction layout

Any great undertaking must begin with a plan. You need to draw a bowl on paper with indications of its dimensions. Also in the drawing, you need to reflect the location of the equipment and its connection to the pool and the electrical network.

Decide on the depth of the bowl. If it is intended for adults, then 2 meters is just right. If for children, then it all depends on their age and height. When installing a diving board, the depth must be at least 2.5 meters.

Planning is a serious and responsible business. Under no circumstances should you rush. Do not start work until you are sure that your drawing is correct and specific.

Only after creating a detailed plan for this, you can start work.

Digging a hole and preparing a pillow

The next step is to choose a place, dig a pit and prepare a pillow for the foundation.

The place should initially be as flat as possible. The supply of electricity and water supply should also not cause problems for the future reservoir. Pay attention to these two points when choosing a location.

We clear the area from plants, large stones, and then proceed to dig a hole. You can do it yourself, but this approach will take a lot of time and effort. If possible, contact a team of private workers or even the services of an excavator. This will greatly speed up the process and bring you closer to the final work.

Pit requirements:

The bottom of the pit is 20-30 centimeters lower than the bottom of the future pool;
The walls of the pit with a margin of 15-20 in each direction from the walls of the concrete bowl;
The side walls should have a slope of 6-7 degrees to the outside;

Compliance with these requirements simplifies the installation of the pool. If they are violated, you will either not be able to complete the work at all, or you will do it with big problems.

Next, we install all the pipes that will be brought to the pool. A bottom drain and side nozzles are installed, and pipes go up from them. It is advisable to cover the holes tightly with a rag or film so that dirt does not get in during construction work.

After finally digging the hole, you need to prepare a pillow for the foundation. There is nothing complicated, you just need to fill the compositions in several layers and level them. The first layer is filled with sand by 15-20 centimeters. Next comes crushed stone 5-10 centimeters high.

We level each layer using a board with a level attached to it and tamp it down. If you are pouring cement, let it harden completely and only then proceed to further work.

The last layer is laid roofing material with an overlap or other waterproofing material. It will protect against external groundwater and the flow of the bowl itself.

We fill the foundation

Now you need to install the formwork from the boards for pouring the foundation of the tank. It is recommended that the foundation be made somewhat wider than the perimeter of the pool walls. This will give greater stability and durability to the structure.

The next step is to install reinforcement for the foundation. Bars with ribs with a diameter of 10-14 mm are used. The larger the area and depth of the tank, the thicker the reinforcing bars should be used. The mesh size should be 20 by 20 centimeters.

The wire mesh is installed in two layers. The first is located at a height of 5 centimeters above the pillow, and the second layer is 5 centimeters above the first. Thus, it turns out that the plate will come out with a thickness of about 14-15 centimeters.

For the exact location of the reinforcing layers in a height of 5 centimeters, brick or wooden blocks are used. Professional installers have special stands in their arsenal.

At the site of the construction of the side walls, the bars are bent vertically upwards. Later we will tie the reinforcement for the walls to them. This design is rigid and reliable.

To pour the base, you must first prepare the solution. To do this, you can order a special machine or do it yourself in a concrete mixer. But you need to work quickly so that your solution does not have time to harden while you prepare a new portion.

To prevent air voids from forming in the thickness of the foundation, you can use a vibrator or an ordinary rod. The vibration unit works in accordance with the instructions, and you simply lower the stick into the solution that has not yet hardened and perform circular motions. This will allow air to come to the surface.

Filling the sides of the bowl

First of all, you need to make reinforcement of the side walls. To do this, we tie the steel bars to those that were bent vertically upwards at the base reinforcement.

The installation of walls should be started only when the foundation has completely hardened. How fast will it happen? Depends on weather conditions and the composition of the solution. On average, this period is 1 week.

The thickness of the walls of the concrete pool and the number of tiers of reinforcement directly depends on the volume of the pool. For a pool of 4 * 4 meters with a depth of up to 1.5 meters, it is permissible to use one tier. The thickness of the walls is 10-15 centimeters. If the area and depth are greater, then at least 2 tiers of reinforcement are installed, and the wall thickness is at least 20 cm.

Next, formwork for the walls is installed. For it, wooden boards, plywood or chipboard sheets are used. All of them must be impregnated with a moisture-repellent compound. The joints of wooden sheets must be covered with some material or sealed.

The poured concrete will put a lot of pressure on the formwork. To avoid deformation or complete destruction of the structure, spacers are installed on both sides. Also, the formwork walls are nailed from above to small bars.

Formwork for steps and other forms of the pool is also installed. Then, carefully, but quickly, concrete is poured into all the walls at once.

Facing

After complete solidification, you can remove the formwork and proceed with the waterproofing and lining of the pool.

For waterproofing, special compositions are applied by spraying or roller. Carefully work out the junction of the walls and the foundation, as well as uneven places in the walls. Let the compound dry completely.

A slight change in water level may be due to normal evaporation of moisture.

For the final cladding, tile, mosaic or film is used. Which to choose? Depends on your budget, preferences and ease of use of the material.

For mounting tiles and mosaics, use only high-quality glue that is not afraid of water. Also, the seams must be treated with anti-fungal compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the cladding and facilitate its maintenance.

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Construction budget

What is the cost of a concrete pool? This question often arises among residents of private homes. Let's figure it out.

If you take all the work into your own hands, then concrete will be the biggest item on the list of materials. You will also need a minimum set of equipment: a pump, a filter and a heater. And less tangible costs will go to tiles, waterproofing and so on.

Don't skimp on equipment. The entire circulatory system should have time to pass the entire volume through itself 2-3 times a day. If this does not happen, the cleaning and heating efficiency will approach zero.

On average, a pool with an area of 10-15 m 2 will cost you 200-300 thousand rubles. Of this amount, approximately 100-150 will be spent on equipment, and the rest on building materials. Of course, you can keep within 150, it all depends on your requirements and desires.

We have given an approximate average cost. Take it as a guide, and when you seriously take up the construction of your own tank, calculate everything exactly according to the prices of your city.

So, today we have analyzed in detail how to build a concrete pool with our own hands and how much this pleasure will cost you. You can also find other step-by-step guides for installing artificial reservoirs on our website.