Bicycle crafts. Three simple homemade bicycle maintenance What can you make a bicycle car from?

Having a bike is cool and inexpensive: the prices for new budget models do not bite, the choice is great in stores and on the Internet is huge. But much more interesting would be a bicycle of his own production, personally patented.

A homemade bicycle is popular among fans of the process of assembling and disassembling mechanisms. Is it possible to create your bike from scratch, with only improvised means? Yes, it’s true, it’s impossible to make components such as a wheel, carriage assembly and transmission stars on your own.

It turns out that it is completely impossible to make a bicycle with your own hands. Of course, you will have to accept that it will not work to create a bike completely from scratch, but it is quite possible to make the most important thing - the frame. What is the first thing you need to assemble a product? That's right, simulate it on paper.

Creating a drawing for a bicycle frame

To make the correct drawing yourself, you will have to try for a long time, since you must adhere to the reference data on the length and diameter of the pipes. And you also need to decide on the type of bike.

It’s easier to go the other way - take ready-made drawings. For example, take a drawing of a diamond-shaped road bike frame. The figure shows that the seat tube and front (glass) pipes must be strictly parallel to each other, and the lower main pipe and the lower feather of the rear triangle must be spread at the same angle relative to the seat tube.

The lower and upper main tubes are fixed at one end to the head tube, and at the other end to the seatpost. The top tube can be positioned horizontally or at an angle, depending on the model. In our case, it is horizontal.

Singlespeed Closed Frame Image

Taking into account all sizes and angles, you should get such a design as on paper. The next steps after studying the drawing are cutting and welding pipes.

Assembling a bicycle frame: welding pipes, pressing the fork, making seats for the wheels

To make a homemade frame, you will need 7 pipes of the required sizes. Of these, 2 are short for the bottom bracket and head tube, four are medium for the rear stays and long for the main seatpost. The supporting structure of a simple road bike is made of steel alloys, so we select the material accordingly. Pipes must be free of damage and rust. Further, using spot welding, the parts are connected.

Manufacturing sequence:

The lower main tube is welded to the bottom bracket shell.
The down tube attaches to the lower edge of the steering front tube. The position of the helmsman is perpendicular to the bottom bracket.
Parallel to the head tube, a seat tube is welded to the glass at the required angle to the down tube.
Welding the seatpost and front tubes of the main upper.
The front part is ready, then the lower feathers are welded to the glass of the carriage at a slight angle to each other. The angle to the seat tube is exactly the same as the main down tube.
Joining the top end of the seat tube and the edge of the chainstays. We get the top feathers, the welding of the structure is completed.

Welded joints of feathers and carriage glass

The next stage is the manufacture and pressing of the fork in the front of the frame. The whole process comes down to welding three metal pipes and making special cones for pressing. The length of the fork should be such that the level of the lower end coincides with the point of the stays on the rear triangle of the welded frame.

A homemade fork is an energy-intensive option, it is better to make it in the image and likeness of an existing one or buy a ready-made one for a made frame.

Pressing is done in a horizontal position:

Installation of bearings.
Fixation of cones on balls.
Cape washer on the fork stem.
Tightening the locknut.

The steering wheel is installed in the fork housing. It can be made from improvised means, the same metal pipes, and a special threaded lock can be screwed on, but it is better to buy it separately. It turns out that everything except the frame will have to be bought and follow the standard rule of building a bike out of the box? Almost. After all, you still need to weld the dropouts under the rear wheel, and you need to do it yourself. And if the fork is homemade, seats are made under front wheel.

So, dropouts are made according to the scheme:

Cut out small metal plates, but so that they can be well welded to the frame pipes.
Using a jigsaw, make holes in the plates, the dimensions of which must correspond to the diameter of the wheel axle and fixing nuts.
With the side opposite the hole, the part is carefully welded to the frame.

Both mounting holes must be placed at exactly the same level, otherwise the wheel will not sit on the dropouts. And one more thing: the distance between the mounting holes must, at least, correspond to the tightening of the nuts "to the stop". In other words, the wheel should not fall off the dropouts at least with maximum twist.

So the holes of the dropouts should match along the axis

Installing the handlebar, saddle, bottom bracket and wheels

To get a full-fledged bike, you need to put all the working units listed in the title on a homemade skeleton. by the most difficult stage there will be an installation of the carriage and the “cranks-pedals” system.

The handlebar is inserted into the fork body and is firmly fixed with a bolt on the top. Before installation, it is recommended to lightly lubricate the inner walls of the fork, as well as accurately set the position of the steering wheel - the handles are strictly perpendicular to the course of the bicycle. Twisting can bring down the direct position of the steering wheel. It's not scary, it's enough to correct the position with one hand, holding the frame firmly with the other.

It is inserted into a vertical pipe and fixed with a metal clamp with a nut. The height of the saddle on a road bike is matched to the height of the handlebars.

The next stage is in a glass. The carriage is a complex transmission unit that, when installed, will require a special tool - squeeze. All work on the assembly of parts is carried out in a strictly specified order.

Tool for shooting and tightening connecting rods

And finally, inserting the wheels into the seats. Remember that homemade dropouts must be precisely agreed in advance before manufacturing, otherwise they will have to be cut off, made and welded on again. Wheel installation sequence:

Put the chain on the driving and driven stars.
Insert the rear wheel into the dropouts.
Install a metal clamp on the lower chainstay of the bicycle, fasten the brake lock to it.
Tighten wheel nuts.
Install the front wheel into the seats, tighten until it stops.

When tightening, it is better to use a dynamometer to obtain accurate tightening torques and geometric integrity. For a homemade design, this is especially important.

As you can see, homemade for a bike is a very conditional concept. It is still realistic to make the supporting structure yourself, but the rest of the components will have to be bought. Nevertheless, even such a bike deserves the title of exclusive: it is made and assembled by yourself. The completion of the work will be a thorough running-in of your offspring, identifying and correcting shortcomings.

DIY motorbike

I am not a fan of high-speed driving: 40-50 km / h in the vicinity of the cottage for me is quite fast. And in order to move one hundred kilograms of "My Majesty", neither prohibitive power nor the elephantine mass of the carrying "piece of iron" is needed.

Someone will advise: well, take a fifty-kopeck scooter!

First, the "stools" are expensive. Secondly, in the village where the dacha is, this is “equipment before the first breakdown” - it is unlikely that 300 km from the city I can easily find, if necessary, an imported spare part.

Thirdly, the scooter weighs a lot: how to take it to the dacha in a passenger car? Ride on your own? Not funny! After 300 km of travel, I will be left without arms, without legs, without a fifth point ...

Two “slackers” “married” go to the country.

When I was thinking about this, I came across the material “We Ride Standing” in “Moto” No. 9 for 2005. The author told how he adapted the “deshka” motor to the scooter. Hooked - and I rushed to the bike market.

Yes, the trouble is, the sellers unanimously claimed that now they don’t release “cheap money” (maybe they lied?). I don’t know how it would have ended, but I remembered the Mole. The one that “lives” in my dacha and cultivates the land for only two days a year: one in May, the second in September. His 60-cc two-stroke is twice as powerful as the cheap one - 2.6 horses versus 1.3. Assembled with gas tank, muffler, manual starter, air filter and gearbox. And I decided to adapt it to another "loafer" - a folding bike that has been gathering dust on the mezzanine for three years.

Gas lever (indicated by an arrow).

I made a shelf from a 5 mm duralumin sheet, installed it instead of the rear trunk. In a vertical plane, it is held by two racks from an old bicycle. In the longitudinal - a hole with which it is put on the pipe, a saddle is fixed in the hole. And the transverse stability of the structure is guaranteed by a slope on the right side. To this fairly rigid structure, the motor was screwed with four bolts.

Left on the steering wheel: 1 - clutch release lever; 2 - latch lever; 3 - ignition off button.

The drive to the rear wheel was made by a belt, with a tension roller from the VAZ G8 timing belt. The driving pulley left the regular one, and the driven one came up in terms of the gear ratio from the MB walk-behind tractor. It is aluminum, two-strand. On a lathe, I cut off an extra stream - the one that is wider. How do you attach a pulley to a wheel? I found another pulley (the slope of the side surfaces of most of the pulleys corresponds to the angle of inclination of the spokes), made cuts in it with a “grinder”, coinciding with the crosshairs of the spokes. I installed it exactly in the center of the wheel using a special bushing. I drilled holes in it and bolted it to the spokes through large washers. And already a driven pulley was screwed to it with three screws. gear ratio turned out to be extremely successful. And one more thing: the drive pulley is double, and next to the engine on the shelf there is enough space for a small generator. Do you catch the thread?

Clutch mechanism: 1 - cable; 2 - plate; 3 - bolts - guide plates; 4 - roller; 5 - springs.

The "Mole" does not have a clutch mechanism. And why not give the belt drive its functions? For this, the roller tensioning the belt did not become rigidly fixed - it is constantly pressed by a spring. If, by squeezing it, move the roller, the belt slips. Here's your clutch! Homemade clutch release lever. The free play of the plate with the roller is as much as 7 cm (this is with a margin - after all, the belt is pulled out over time), and for motorcycle clutch levers it is no more than 2 cm. What happened can be seen in the photo. The disadvantage of the design is that you have to directly, without a reinforcing shoulder, “fight” with the tension roller springs. But this can be endured - my device does not have a gearbox, so I have to work with the clutch lever very rarely - only during start and stop. The lever in the clamped position fixes a small locking lever. It helps out when you need to turn off the clutch for a long time, for example, when riding “like a bicycle”. Instead of a clutch cable, I inserted a thin steel wire lubricated with lithol into the braid. The braid does not have sharp bends, so the wire moves easily in it. The main advantage of such a replacement is that the wire is much more reliable than the rope that is scarce in the village.

The main component is under the baseball cap.

The front and rear brakes are conventional bicycle brakes. The rest of the controls on the steering wheel are regular from the "Mole": on the left - "jammer", on the right under thumb- throttle lever.

Tested in December. Starting the motor - cord. Started with pedals. Two or three turns - and you can forget about them.

By the way, the “Mole” forced cooling fan ensures that the motor does not overheat at low speed. I asked a friend of the car driver to drive in sync with me in order to fix the speed. It turned out that the "maximum speed" is over 60 km / h. But such a speed seemed dangerous to me - a bicycle after all. And at 40 km / h - a real pleasure! For this engine, "forty" is a walking mode. Any rise for him is a trifle.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

What did I get? What I wanted. In the trunk of my "Zhiguli" just put an individual folding vehicle weighing 32 kg (bike - 20, motor - 12), capable of moving "my majesty" at a speed of 60 km / h and a little faster. It takes five to ten minutes to assemble and disassemble. Gasoline consumption - no more than 2-2.5 liters per 100 km. There is nothing to break in my design. In stock, it is enough to keep a belt, one or two meters of steel wire and a tension roller from the "eight"! And last but not least, there are pedals.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

Common data:

dry weight - 32 kg,
length - 1830 mm,
height - 1100 mm,
seat height - 850-950 mm,
width - 600 mm,
base - 1230 mm,
ground clearance - 180 mm,
gas tank volume - 1.8 l,
maximum speed - more than 60 km / h.

Engine- "Mole", working volume - 60 cm3, power - 2.6 hp, carburetor - K60V.

Transmission:
homemade belt drive, belt - 1400 mm,
drive pulley - regular 60 mm, outer diameter of the driven pulley - 255 mm
(optimal for a wheel diameter of 600 mm). Chassis:
folding bike "Impulse".

Tires:
front and back - 47-507.

Brakes:
regular bicycles. Electrical equipment: not yet available.

When starting to create bicycles with their own hands, craftsmen should evaluate how often and for what purposes they plan to use homemade bicycles. A self-made two-wheeled structure is rather an experiment, an opportunity to prove to myself: I can do more than others, because assembling a vehicle from scratch is a troublesome business. Many parts cannot be made on their own, so you have to run around special stores for such components.

Another important point- to understand very clearly why each bike node is needed, which components cannot be abandoned, otherwise it will suffer or it will not travel more than 2 m.

Components of a homemade bicycle

Frame

If there is a frame left from an old, leaky bicycle, it’s great, the main thing is that it be in good condition and not have rust. If there is no frame, it does not matter either, purchase steel, aluminum or titanium narrow pipes.

The basis is a drawing, which displays all the components of the bike. It is better if the sketch is made in 3D mode on a computer, you can immediately assess the actual dimensions of the necessary parts and get an impression of the proportionality of each. Welding remains the preferred method of connecting functional components, if it is additionally planned to fix the trunk to the frame or, provide recesses for the bolts. Holes are also left for bolts for attachments.

front fork

It's hard to imagine homemade functioning bikes without a front fork. If you plan to ride a bike, sliding down the mountain and climbing up, it is better to build in a soft shock absorber. IN mountain models do not mount BMX plugs - they are too heavy. When making a plug with your own hands, calculate the following parameters:

fork travel;
method of fixing the brakes;
preferred wheel diameter.

Transmission and brake

Transmission nodes are selected based on the amount allocated for this part of the bike. Experts do not advise assembling the chain with your own hands or creating a speed switch, just waste your time, good quality you still won't get it. Arriving at the store, choose a classic transmission, the placental format has a number of significant drawbacks.

They are divided into rim and disc. If cycling is done in dry weather, rim brake pads are suitable, they are inexpensive and greatly facilitate the design. Extreme travel rim brakes will not stand up - equip disc brakes. With the latest, riding safety and comfort for the cyclist are ensured.

The wheels, of course, should be bought ready-made, however, as well as the saddle. If you prefer a sporty style of riding - pay attention to rigid and elastic saddles that take into account the anatomical features of the cyclist.

It would seem that it is easier to choose pedals. Beginners in cycling believe that, apart from the classics, the designers have not come up with anything else, but they are mistaken. Upgraded fittings keep your feet firmly in place so your feet don't slip off so you don't have to make unplanned stops. This also increases the risk of injury on the road.

How to make a bike with a comfortable steering wheel, experts suggest. It must meet the basic requirements:

ergonomics;
reliability;
strength.

The steering wheel is bent according to a pre-made sketch, while do not forget that it has important control components that control the activation of the brakes, knobs that switch speeds, a horn, a headlight. In modern bikes, you can equip an on-board computer.

The steering wheel is fixed to the stem, preferably the last component is adjustable. To assemble the steering wheel, use durable materials that will not let you down: steel, titanium or carbon.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bicycle yourself

Frame creation

How to make a bicycle with your own hands, starting from the frame, craftsmen tell. It is unlikely that you can do the work yourself, so enlist the help of a friend. For the frame, prepare 7 pipes, 2 of them should be short, 4 medium - they are placed for the rear feathers, the long ones remain for the seat component.

Follow this frame assembly sequence:

Attach the lower main pipe to the bottom bracket using a welding machine.
It should be fixed to the lower edge of the steering tube located in front of the bike. The position of the helmsman is relative to the perpendicular of the bottom bracket shell.
Following the parallel of the head tube to the glass, weld the seat tube to the down tube, taking into account the desired angle of inclination.
Then weld the seat tube and front tube to the main top tube. The front frame is complete.
Proceed to welding the lower stays to the glass of the carriage. The angle to the seat profile must match the angle of the main bottom.
Join the top end of the seatpost to the edge of the chainstay to form the chainstay.

Pressing the fork and making dropouts

The fork is pressed in in a horizontal position. How to make a bicycle yourself with your own hands at the stage of pressing the fork, step by step instructions masters provide:

Mount bearings.
Attach the cones to the balls
Put the washer on the shock absorber rod.
Tighten the locknuts firmly, but do not over-tighten so as not to break the connection.

Take a metal plate and cut out some pieces.
Armed with a jigsaw, make recesses in the details, the size of which should fit the diameter of the wheel axle and fixing nuts.
The part is welded to the frame, applying the side devoid of holes.

Landing recesses are placed at the same level, otherwise the wheel will not sit on the dropouts. The step between the mounting holes is equal to the tightening of the nuts to the maximum.

Mounting the remaining components

A fully functioning great bike requires the installation of working units on the skeleton. The most difficult thing is to install on your bottom bracket and debug the cranks and pedals. And again, you can’t do without a guide on how to make a bike with your own hands:

Secure the steering wheel mounted in the shock absorber housing with a bolt. The plug must be well lubricated before starting work.
Insert the seatpost vertically into the tube and secure it with a metal clamp with a nut.
Install the carriage into the glass using a squeeze.
After installing the chain, install the wheels.

Conclusion

Now you have the knowledge of how to make a bicycle with your own hands almost from scratch. The work begins with the creation of a drawing, and after that the idea of the master is gradually being realized. Some components you can make yourself, others are better to buy, so be prepared for expenses. The made bike will become a real attraction of the area, for sure everyone will want to ride on such a device.

In your new project I want to show how regular bike Can do it yourself build something extraordinary. The bike will easily transform while riding from a regular bike to a bike with a high handlebar and seat (and vice versa)!

The transforming bike is made of full-suspension mountain bike and a set of gas shock absorbers. The spring on the mountain bike was removed to allow the bike to spin freely; the fork and rear triangle of the bike have been lengthened. The gas shocks expand when the bike is in a high position and compress when it returns to a low position.

The general steps for building this type of bike are described below. Special materials and their dimensions will vary depending on the materials available, the type of bike and the body type of the rider.

Step #1: Remove the components from the bike

Bicycle components are removed before cutting and welding.
The connecting rod is removed using a special puller.
For other parts of the structure, standard tools are used (cutters, adjustable wrench, socket / hex keys).
The shock absorbers also need to be removed from the fork.

Step #2: Cutting the Bike

The bike is cut behind the bottom bracket. Use a whetstone to clean up the cut points before welding on the extension piece.

Step #3: Extending the Back Triangle

To lengthen the rear triangle, you can use a piece of square steel pipe about 27 cm long.

Step #4: Fork Extension

To extend the fork, I used two pieces of steel pipe 60 cm long.

Step #5: Which gas shocks to use?

The distances between potential mounting points on the bike were initially measured to calculate the possible expansion and contraction lengths for gas shock absorbers. The wheels and seat have been remounted to make the measurement process easier, and the cranks and pedals have also been remounted to ensure they won't make contact with the shocks in any position.
Next, gas shock absorbers were used, the length of which in the expanded state is 94 cm, and in the compressed state 51 cm.

Step #6: How Much Damping Force Do Gas Shocks Use?

The gas shock absorbers used on the bike use a force of 41 kg. With a cyclist weighing 55 kg, the total depreciation force will be at the level of 66%. This is great when riding slowly, but when riding fast over small bumps and potholes in the road, it will compress the bike a little. Locking shock absorbers or higher damping force can help with this problem.

Step #7: Installing the Gas Springs

The upper end of the gas shock absorbers is attached to the center of the triangular part of the bicycle frame near the seat. Gas shock absorbers are supplied with metal flare fittings and 8mm threaded ball studs. An 8mm union nut is welded onto a 6mm diameter steel tube to fit into the triangle, and the resulting structure is then welded to the bike.
The lower end of the gas shock absorbers is attached to a similar steel plate, which is attached to the bike's rear frame mounting holes with screws.

Step #8: Bike Assembly: Chain

The derailleurs were not set back so the bike only has one speed. The rear derailleur was used as stretching device chains, and a small piece of wire was used to lock it in place. Two new chains were connected together to make one big chain.

Step #9: Bike Assembly: Brakes

I used new 2 meter brake cables; the rear cable used existing cable deflectors and tie-downs to hold it in place. The front brake cable used a single tie to hold it in place.

Step #10: Finishing the Project

The bike has been cleaned and repainted; the bike trial pedal was installed on the left side as a step to get on the bike comfortably.

Now you can hit the road on an unusual transforming bike!

Got a puncture or a nipple came off? This is not a reason to throw the camera in the trash and consign it to oblivion. We have found for you 7 things you can do with an old retired bike tube.

Belt

Not only do you have a worn-out camera, but also old, mismatched pants that fall off while riding? A bike tube strap is a great way to kill two birds with one stone. The technology is not very complicated and if you have the necessary tools, you can handle it yourself. Otherwise, go to any tailor and get the coolest belt among riders. Look there, and launch mass production.

Wallet

Agree, to give the last money to buy a good wallet is something from the category of "Gifts of the Magi". That's why making your own wallet out of your own old camera is so cool - when you're done, you'll have something to put in it. The wallet in the picture can be bought in an online store (Piccola wallet model for $25). But it is enough to show a little ingenuity by following the instructions.

Wings

If you're lucky enough to live in an arid area where the rain showers its wet caress infrequently enough not to spend extra money on buying good wings, then you can guess what can be done. This will require a chamber, plates inside the chamber to maintain shape (these can be cutouts from plastic bottles) and wire to create a fastener. No complications, clear instructions.

Campfire Starter

If you need something waterproof that can keep the flame burning for a long time, just wrap a small piece of the chamber around the kindling and light it. Look at the video how cool the camera is on fire. Apply this trick when you are in complete despair, because burning rubber is still an unpleasant smell and harmful toxins.

Foot mat

Yes, that's also possible. This is where knitting skills come in handy. Using a needle or hook, you need to stretch the loops from the chamber to other loops, and continue until the desired fashionable floor “rag” comes out.

Tool case

Keep your keys and screwdrivers in this rubber case to keep them from rattling. For each individual tool, you will have to make your own pocket. This seven-step guide shows how you can achieve the desired result and organize the storage of bicycle tools in a bicycle chamber.

chair seat

Repair, upgrade your old chair, or make your seat a little more comfortable. Even if your own inventory of bike tubes is not enough, any local bike shop will share with you. What, not even a suitable chair? Well, then you can find an inexpensive one at some sale and go needlework. Here is the instruction.

Friends, we are sure that our man has already come up with hundreds of his inventions from an old bicycle tube. Tell everyone in the comments.

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