How to put on a chain on a sports bike. Installation of a bicycle chain. Chain tensioner - how it works

A bicycle chain is one of the main components of a bicycle. Many are confused by the question of how to tighten the chain on a high-speed bike? Special skills and the presence of a special tool for this operation is not required. Actions can be performed independently, it is enough to follow the instructions exactly.

Causes of collapse or rupture

One of the most important parts of a bicycle is the chain. But even with normal driving, it can fly off or break. The main reasons for the breakdown:

Damage to one of the stars transmission systems. Gear systems of high-speed bicycles are divided into collapsible and non-collapsible. Star replacement is possible in a collapsible system. The non-separable gear system is completely changed, as a set. If one star is damaged, driving is possible at speeds that have remained serviceable.
Incorrect speed settings. The front and rear derailleurs have special bolts that adjust the transmission. If these bolts, then there is a possibility that when shifting gears, the chain will fly off.

Bicycle chain tension

The mechanism can be tensioned independently, both on high-speed models with gear shifting and on bicycles without them.

In order to properly tension the chain on a bicycle, especially if it is, you will need wrenches (which usually come with vehicle) and some patience.

On bicycles without gears

Before you start working with this element of an ordinary bicycle, which is different from others, you should know the basic rule - you can not pull the chain to the state of the string. The normal state of this node is considered to be sagging up to 5 mm.

How to tighten the chain on a regular bike, the sequence of operations:

The vehicle is overturning. In order not to damage the seat or the surface of the steering wheel, small pieces of soft material can be placed under them.
The rear wheel is held on by two nuts. To work with the chain, they must be loosened.
As a consequence of the movement of the wheel along the inclined grooves, it is necessary to adjust the required sag.
After the recommended distance of 5 mm has been reached, rear wheel it is necessary to fix it on 2 nuts, which then should be carefully tightened. You don't have to put in a lot of effort.
Too tight a mechanism will not allow the cyclist to pedal freely. Also, when the transport returns to its original state, they carefully monitor that the wheel axis runs parallel to the carriage shaft.

At speeds with gears

How to pull the chain on? The design of high-speeds provides tension to the link element by increasing the stiffness of the spring of the rear derailleur. In the event of an incorrect choice of the length of the link element and subsequent replacement, the switch will not provide the proper tension.

If there is too much slack, the chain will hit the frame and gear shifting becomes difficult. Also, you should not put too short a mechanism, tension will accelerate the wear of the entire speed mechanism.

Important! Sometimes when installing a new chain on speed bike you need to shorten its length, remove the extra links.

This can be done in two ways:

We stretch the chain on the largest front and rear sprocket. We pull for it, moving the rear derailleur to the maximum forward. Add two links and get the optimal chain length.
We transfer the chain in front to the largest star, in the back - to the smallest. Pull it up to such a position when:
- the rear thrower frame will point straight down;
- the switch rollers must be in the same vertical line.

How can you shorten the chain?

The chains of ordinary speedless bikes are collapsible. One of the links has a special lock. Its opening will allow you to remove unnecessary links or add new ones.
Important! Before you start removing the extra links of a one-piece riveted chain on a high-speed bike, a special squeeze is purchased.

With its help, you can carefully rivet the clamps, leave them in the required number, and then re-rivet.

There is another way to solve: in the absence of a tool, the pins on the links are turned with sandpaper. After that they are removed.

How to choose and install a chain guide

The damper is a simple structure made of metal. High Quality, which prevents the link element from collapsing. It must be correctly installed in order to function properly.

Installing the damper:

remove the gear shifting stars from the bike. On some models, the carriage must be removed;
the largest star, which will be replaced by rockling, must be installed in place of the middle one;
fix the structure in place of the carriage ledges;
lubricate all rubbing elements;
put on the chain and tighten it correctly.

Important! The damper should be extended towards the star so that it does not interfere with the free operation of the entire gearshift system.

By following the instructions above, you can understand how to sports bike tension the chain or do the same operation on a simpler two-wheeled vehicle.

Video

How to tension a chain on a speed bike will help the following video.

Bicycle chain

The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the maintenance of the chain in perfect condition that guarantees the adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have in a "bicycle" farm? How to change the chain on your own, so as not to contact the bicycle master for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.
Data windows located in the upper left corner of the video: This block contains two white windows with a blue line representing very important data. In the lower window, you see the pattern of oscillation movement on the axis: the blue line indicates the pattern of forces applied to the axis.

This intense and powerful vibration pattern is directly transmitted to the tire contact areas, causing the tire's road contact patches to decrease and increase along the road like a ball ball periodically, following the same pattern of the blue line. The same pattern of powerful vibration is also transferred directly to the rider's bony joints, causing fatigue. During our unbalanced wheel testing, we also uncovered and documented new and disturbing evidence never before seen by the bicycle industry.

Chain: choice and competent care

For people who still remember, the suggestion “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds a bit wild. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bike itself. The answer is simple: those bikes had only one speed, because the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bikes. Now even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are no doubt stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads in such operation.

We decided to name and terminology some of the negative results we recorded, which can be seen in this test data video, for example. Here we explain the chain of events that can be started by as little as 6 grams of unbalanced wheel weight, which most bike, wheel and tire manufacturers consider minor and harmless.

The entire wheel from the axle to the outer perimeter oscillates and generates centrifugal forces, which can, for example, be 7 kg in the front wheel and 10 kg in the rear wheel - imagine sledgehammers! Now that the innocent 6 grams have started a few problems cascading through the bike and bike wheels.

Then a cascade of really bad things starts to unfold.
Now the tiny 6 grams have triggered and become an uncontrollable cascade of energy.

This means that even if a 90kg rider mounts this bike, the shaking is so powerful that it can cause the tire patch to still bounce down the road like a ball.

So, it's time to replace the chain on your own bike: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers, you can find chains of various prices and various qualities. All these chains can easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains indefinitely until he finds the one that will completely suit him.

When in doubt, put the bike on a stand, have 5 or 10 adults hang on the bike as you spin the rear wheel to 80 km/h, and have all the adults try to stop the shaking. You will find that this is not possible as the violent shaking goes through all adults like Jello. This only happens with the rear wheel.

Imagine the front wheel doing the same thing at the same time! Dynamic Speed Balance not only eliminates all the debilitating symptoms caused by unbalanced wheels, but raises levels of efficiency, performance, control and rolling safety to new levels never thought possible in the industry. The dynamic speed balance ensures that the mass has no oscillation, so it can continue to move smoothly and quickly without interruption.

ADVICE! For a cassette of 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 - for 9 and so on.

When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the labeling: usually companies put information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, CN-HG53 will be much simpler than CN-7701.

Once you've established that this isn't an issue, it's time to head to your local bike shop. You may need a new chain, new chainrings, a new cassette and new rims for the rear derailleur. It will be approximately £100 please. This is what chain wear wears out if you don't catch it early enough: it ruins the rest of the drivetrain. If you notice it early, you can only replace the chain.

All chains get badly worn sooner or later - sooner if they don't like it. The metal of the bushings and pins wears out, so the pins become even more spaced apart. It's not literally stretching, but you often hear the process called stretching. As the chain lengthens, the gaps in the chain do not mesh properly with the transmission teeth.

For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already needs to be replaced or repaired, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the stars: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most truthful way to determine chain wear should be considered not mileage (sometimes 100 km of off-road and dirt country walks will pass for 1000 km of calm city bike rides), but the length of 24 links of the chain:

This is the point of no return: the entire transmission is damaged and needs to be replaced. There is a way to prevent this: measure your chain. Once the chain is 75% longer, it's time for a new one. Once this is more than 1% more, the rest of the transmission will be worn out and will almost certainly need to be replaced too. Less than 5% wear is excellent, even with 10 speed gearboxes. More than 1% wear and it can still work fine if your bike only has one chainring and one sprocket - or e.g.

Measuring less than one percent wear may seem like the work of lab technicians. All bikes use a half-inch step chain. This is half an inch from the center of one pin to the center of the other. The distance between the two pins, i.e. the complete chain link, which is hinged and has both inner and outer side plates, is one inch. So 12 links is 12 inches. Place a steel ruler under the chain, with a zero under your "start" pin. The 24th pin should be at the 12" mark, assuming the chain has been disassembled.

in the normal state, this figure is 304.8 mm;
306.5-307.5 mm - a reason to change the chain;
307.5-308 mm - signals not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system status.

Another way to “by eye” find out how worn out the chain is the following: after installing the chain on a large star, it should be lightly pulled with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the star, the chain is worn out, but still suitable for riding, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often signal its wear.

This is a simple measuring tool with pegs for 75% and 1% wear. You will hook one end of the chain and leave the other end of the chain. If it stands as shown in the picture, the chain is worn less than indicated on the tool. If the pin falls into the gap so that it is close to the chain, the chain puts on the specified amount - or more. If the chain is 75% worn, replace it. You should be able to continue using sprockets, cassettes and rims for a while longer.

When you measure the chain, make sure it is slightly taut. The rear derailleur will do it for you. On a single chain and sprocket bike, apply light pressure to one pedal with the rear wheel on the floor. This will stop the top chain travel from sagging the chain.

Replacing the chain on a bicycle: remove and install correctly

Experts advise following some simple recommendations that will allow the bike owner to avoid possible problems with chain:

do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
done on time will help you protect it from an early breakdown.
do not use thick lubricants and products like WD40 as chain lubrication;
use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.

The frequency with which you need to check your chain will depend on your weekly mileage, the conditions you cycle in, and how clean and well lubricated you keep your chain. Every two weeks should be enough. Muddy mountain bikes will go through the chains faster than road-only bikes. If your bike has a fully enclosed chainring, a protected chain can last for years.

Take your bike to a local shop or do it yourself. it is not difficult. The most important thing is to get the right one. Because the chains use the same half-inch pitch, the width and fine details vary. The 10-speed chain is thinner than the 8-speed chain and meshes with thinner transmission teeth.

Chain lock.

If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and skillfully. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only on children's or cheap bikes. For a similar design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.

Count the sprockets on the bike cassette. This is the whole chain you need. Otherwise, chains up to and including 8 tend to be interchangeable - in terms of speeds and brands. Gates does not recommend modifying frames as doing so will void the frame manufacturer's warranty and could result in injury or death. The belt cannot be broken and reconnected, so for a standard rear triangle you will need a way to get the belt through the frame. The belts also need to be adjusted for installation and tension.

Thus the reason for the purpose built frame. Cleanliness - No Lubrication means no greasy dirt buildup, cleaning hands, clothes and kids. Light weight - the whole system, 2 sprockets and belt, weighs less than ordinary chain. This means you don't need to retension the belt or replace the belt due to stretch. Consistent Efficiency - The Carbon Drive belt provides consistent efficiency over the lifetime of the drive. On the contrary, chain efficiency decreases with wear and dirt.

Chain with pin.

The situation is more complicated if the bike has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - squeeze, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:

The belt also requires center distance adjustment for installation and correct tension. Methods include horizontally adjustable dropouts, eccentric bottom brackets, or eccentric hubs. Carbon driven sprockets are designed to fit many stems and hubs. Front sprockets include both 4-bolt and 5-bolt cranks.

For shared storage, Gates does not recommend winding. It is best to leave the belt in its original packaging until ready for use. However, if you want to carry around a spare strap, the proper winding is an option. Care must be taken not to damage the belt, please watch this video.

It is necessary to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
Insert the chain into the release tool. You can do this like this: or using the seat, in which you can press in or press out the axle, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the sleeve is adjusted.
Push the axle towards the reinforcing screw (the squeeze screw is turned with a handle).

IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axis, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.

The belt can interfere when pressed against the flanges on the chains. This may be due to sprocket misalignment, wheel misalignment, or drive overrun caused by damaged components. Spraying water on the belt can cause the drive to stop within minutes, but the permanent solution is to correct the alignment or replace damaged components. Another possible source of noise is a loose front sprocket. Using a thread lock on the sprocket bolts alleviates this problem.

In some cases, noise can occur when riding in muddy conditions, especially mountain biking, if sand and water temporarily stick to the belt. In most cases, simply rinsing the belt and pulleys after a ride will result in noise. If the noise persists, the solution is simple: spray the belt with water, wait for it to dry, and apply a thin coat of dry silicone spray on the tooth side of the belt.

Before installing the chain the exact length must be determined on the bike: if the length is insufficient, then the chain will not allow easy gear shifting, and if it is too long, it will hang out.

Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper dexterity, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:

Dry silicone dries instantly, helps drain grit, and doesn't affect belt durability. To fix this problem, use threadlocker on the sprocket bolts. Increasing the belt tension should fix this problem. Consult the bike manufacturer's recommendations or tension information. Usually jumping a tooth won't cause significant damage to the belt, however strong riders who jump off their teeth at very high loads may consider replacing the belt. Belt slippage at the proper tension can be a symptom of belt or sprocket wear and may be an indication that one or both need to be replaced.

Install switches on small stars.
We put the chain on the bike, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one bypasses on the left, and the upper one on the right.
After the links are aligned and fixed with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeeze.
Carefully press in the axle by slowly turning the squeeze handle: monitor the level of immersion relative to neighboring links.
We check how the axis works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.

Bicycle chain problems

One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process cannot actually be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove extra links as it lengthens.

Chains are often replaced due to scratches and wear rather than actual failure. The drive belt does not stretch, so trouble-free operation remains the same throughout its entire service life. When the belt breaks away from the sprockets under tension, it is likely damaged and a replacement is recommended. If you're on the trail or away from home, reinstalling the belt can get you back under light load. Be aware that if the tensile cords are damaged, the strap may not be able to full load and take a break if it is subjected to any significant load.

In order to shorten the chain you will need for the chain and pliers:

We disconnect the chain, remove the squeeze.
We determine the number of extra links (the best way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
We remove the extra links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
We connect the chain and check its mobility.

Another difficulty is chain slip: Depending on the severity of this problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding, or serious difficulties, leading to the likely loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the causes of chain slippage are the following:

Caliper adjustment. In the middle positions, this can lead to the fact that the chain will jump over the sprockets, and in the extreme positions, it can jam between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: at the same time, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain starts to jump off at increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can be solved only by the complete or partial replacement of the damaged element.
The presence of dirt in the chain or. Dirt particles, ice, grass or earth can cause chain malfunctions. Eliminating slips in this case is easy: just clean and lubricate the chain.
Twisting or breaking the chain. Twisting is an easily solved problem that occurs when an unsuccessful plexus or removal of a jammed chain. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A break, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.

Chain damper

Chain damper.

When the bike is moving, which cause it to fall. Because of this, you can get hurt. Used to prevent. A range of accessories is called a chain guide. Usually, this is a design of two rollers and rocking. It is placed in place of the front derailleur on the frame, providing protection for the chainring and holding the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.

The power part that protects the front chainring from impacts is a rockring. It partially performs the function of a calmer, is commercially available. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. Rockring is fixed as standard, and can be operated in tandem with. The main element of "calming" is the roller supporting the chain.

Sedatives are:

Rollerless. The chain is held by the frame. This is an easy option.
With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on the bottom.
With wide rollers - for.

Types of mounting dampers:

ISCG - fastening with screws on the frame in three places.
ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
BB - fastening to the carriage. She draws the pacifier to.

There is a sedative on the cassette. It is mounted at the back. It is rare on professional bikes, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it is a hindrance to gear shifting, it consumes energy.

Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It can be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal firms - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand, its price is too high. The most popular brand is Shimano. Its products are designed for the Russian buyer.

Frequently asked questions how to fix a chain children's bike ? This is a common and common problem especially in children's bikes.

Why does the chain break?

- This is mainly due to the fact that the chain was initially overtightened, and when driving under load due to tension, the chain lock simply does not stand up and flies off.

- This can also happen if the front sprocket is deformed.

— The chain lock was not properly latched.

What to do if the chain on a children's bike breaks?

You can bring the bike to ours or fix it yourself.

In case you decide to repair the bike on your own.

You still have a chain, but most likely chain lock lost and you will have to buy a new one. It is called the chain lock for. Estimated cost 5,000 - 10,000 bel. rubles. Sold in almost all bike shops. and looks like this:

How to fix a chain on a children's bike?

To do this, you need to remove the chain protection if it prevents you from reaching the sprockets. Put the chain on the sprockets and connect it, from the side of the frame, with the chain lock, which has two guides.

Then slide the record onto these guides.

And using a screwdriver or pliers, put the lock on the rails until it clicks. It should fall into the grooves and not hang out.

After you have installed the lock, check the "slack" of the chain, to do this, press the chain with your finger, if it is pressed tightly and strongly stretched, you should loosen it slightly. Simply unscrew the right bolt that holds the wheel (usually a 17 wrench is required for this if the side wheels are not installed, if they are installed you will also need a 15 wrench), put your finger on the chain and tighten the bolt. The chain should “sag” no more than 0.5 cm.

If the chain was in the sand, beforehand, it is better to clean and wash it, and lubricate it after installation (). Install the chain guard and go)

Bicycle. On a bike like this, this is a serious problem. Don't move forward or slow down. It's still good if the wheel does not jam.

That is why on single-speed bikes you need to install an additional front. At a minimum, it will always help to slow down in an emergency with a bike chain.

Told him on the phone how to put it back. It seems to have worked out, I came home and began to sort it out and eliminated the very reason that led to this. I decided to describe everything, since this problem often arises, and sometimes it has to be solved in the field.

First of all, you need to understand: why it flies.

Reasons why the chain flies off the sprockets on a bicycle:

Weak tension.
Most common cause related to single speed and multi speed bikes.

How to check the tension of a bike chain? Its sag in a single-speed bike should be in the center between the stars of a maximum of 10-15mm.

This is described in more detail in the article and we will not repeat it here.
Curvature of one or more chain links. Usually one link is enough. It arises from blows during careless handling or falls of cyclists.
A single-speed bike chain is stronger and there such problems are extremely rare. With more gentle multi-speed ones, this happens, but it also cannot be said that very often. It cannot be cured. It is necessary to either remove or change the link, if the length of the chain allows, or replace the entire chain. If the chain is already partially worn out, it is better to immediately change it to a new one.

Aligning the link with a hammer on an anvil or pliers is unrealistic. It is ideal not to align it directly, but in this form it will still accelerate the wear of the sprockets and fly off them
Deformed or worn sprocket teeth in the system or cassette.
Deformation can only occur from impacts, and wear, especially on c bikes, is a natural and inevitable process.

In both cases, it is better to change the sprockets, and if they are already not the newest, there is a reason to replace the entire cassette at once.

I would like to clarify one more thing. Putting the crooked teeth of the sprockets into place “with the help of a hammer and some kind of mother” is, at first glance, a simple and obvious thing, but not grateful and often useless. Although the craftsmen do everything, but then you will ride such a bike, so think for yourself. It will not work out perfectly evenly: it means that the wear rate of the chain will increase, and the risk of dropping it from the sprockets will remain.
The chain is very stretched.
This is very rare on single speed bikes, but common on bikes. How to correctly determine chain wear is described and we will not repeat it either.
Front or rear derailleur set incorrectly.
This only happens on shift bikes. The problem manifests itself when, when pedaling, the bike chain itself jumps to another star. In this case, you need to set the switches correctly. This is usually done with two adjusting bolts, marked with the letters L and H. But we will not consider all the nuances of this process within the framework of this article, especially since there are a lot of materials and videos on the network on this issue.

Here, for example, is a video on setting up a rear derailleur on a bike.

Now about how to put the chain that has flown off on a single-speed bicycle into place.

The idea is: First, she completely puts on one of the stars (usually on the back, but it can also be on the front) and throws herself on the second sprocket (front or, respectively, back) to lie on part of the teeth. Further, when pedaling in the direction of travel, the chain is captured by the remaining teeth of the sprocket and completely rests on the entire star and is thus put on.

The algorithm of actions when putting on a chain is approximately the following.

Turn the bike upside down on and , or lift it up so that the rear wheel can spin freely.
If your bike has a bike chain protector, it's best to remove it. So it will be more convenient and easier to get to the front star. If you are too lazy to shoot, or you can already reach the asterisk - well, it's up to you.
Pull the chain completely over the rear sprocket. (If you haven't removed the guard, then it may be more convenient to fully put it on the front sprocket).
Put the chain on the front sprocket as it rotates and pedal forward as you go. When pedaling, she herself throws herself on the remaining teeth.

Here you need to understand that if the bike is upside down, then the chain is thrown onto lower part stars (in relation to you) and, scrolling the star itself by the pedal clockwise, we throw it on the entire front sprocket. If you start chaining upper part stars in relation to you, you will not be able to pedal - in fact, you will have to press the brake.

If the bike is in the normal position (wheels down), then again put the chain on top of the star and pedal clockwise - as if you were driving forward.

Everything - the chain is dressed.

How to Increase Chain Preload on a Single Speed Bike

So that the next time the chain does not fly off again due to sagging, it is better to immediately increase its tightness.

To do this: Loosen the nuts on the dropouts just a bit to allow the rear wheel to move a little and pull it back. After setting the correct tension of the bike chain, slowly tighten the nuts. Just do not warp the rear wheel and check that it rotates in a strictly vertical plane and does not touch the frame and fender feathers.

It is not necessary to pull the bike chain very hard, the pedals will spin tightly. There should be a slight sag, but a maximum of 1-1.5 cm.

If the rear wheel has nowhere else to move -.

On domestic road bikes of the previous generation, chains are made or made detachable, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On modern sports and mountain biking mainly use a one-piece bicycle chain.

And so you have a new bicycle chain to install on your bike.

Installing the bike chain

Fault definition

Before installing the chain, you must put the front and rear derailleurs in the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets. We put the chain on the bike. It is important to correctly put the chain on the tensioner rollers. The chain bypasses the lower roller on the left, and the upper roller on the right.

We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.

We fill the chain into the pomace, (in the photo - on the left). Important note - Many squeezers have two chain slots. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. It is there that the chain must be refueled for removal and installation. (As shown in the photo).
The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press the axle when the chain is tucked into this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain. The axle is pressed into the chain by turning the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis plunges into the hole almost completely (compare with neighboring links). We take the chain out of the squeeze.
If we use a replaceable axis, then we break off the pointed end with pliers. We check only that the chain in the connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, thread the chain into another squeeze seat (the one closest to the squeeze handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.