Homemade bikes on cameras. Making a bicycle with your own hands. Assembling a bicycle frame: welding pipes, pressing the fork, making seats for the wheels

Having a bike is cool and inexpensive: the prices for new budget models do not bite, the choice is great in stores and on the Internet is huge. But much more interesting would be a bicycle of his own production, personally patented.

A homemade bicycle is popular among fans of the process of assembling and disassembling mechanisms. Is it possible to create your bike from scratch, with only improvised means? Yes, it’s true, it’s impossible to make components such as a wheel, carriage assembly and transmission stars on your own.

It turns out that it is completely impossible to make a bicycle with your own hands. Of course, you will have to accept that it will not work to create a bike completely from scratch, but it is quite possible to make the most important thing - the frame. What is the first thing you need to assemble a product? That's right, simulate it on paper.

Creating a drawing for a bicycle frame

To make the correct drawing yourself, you will have to try for a long time, since you must adhere to the reference data on the length and diameter of the pipes. And you also need to decide on the type of bike.

It’s easier to go the other way - take ready-made drawings. For example, take a drawing of a diamond-shaped road bike frame. The figure shows that the seat tube and front (glass) pipes must be strictly parallel to each other, and the lower main pipe and the lower feather of the rear triangle must be spread at the same angle relative to the seat tube.

The lower and upper main tubes are fixed at one end to the head tube, and at the other end to the seatpost. The top tube can be positioned horizontally or at an angle, depending on the model. In our case, it is horizontal.

Singlespeed Closed Frame Image

Taking into account all sizes and angles, you should get such a design as on paper. The next steps after studying the drawing are cutting and welding pipes.

Assembling a bicycle frame: welding pipes, pressing the fork, making seats for the wheels

To make homemade frame, you will need 7 pipes of the required sizes. Of these, 2 are short for the bottom bracket and head tube, four are medium for the rear stays and long for the main seatpost. The supporting structure of a simple road bike is made of steel alloys, so we select the material accordingly. Pipes must be free of damage and rust. Further, using spot welding, the parts are connected.

Manufacturing sequence:

The lower main tube is welded to the bottom bracket shell.
The down tube attaches to the lower edge of the steering front tube. The position of the helmsman is perpendicular to the bottom bracket.
Parallel to the head tube, a seat tube is welded to the glass at the required angle to the down tube.
Welding the seatpost and front tubes of the main upper.
The front part is ready, then the lower feathers are welded to the glass of the carriage at a slight angle to each other. The angle to the seat tube is exactly the same as the main down tube.
Joining the top end of the seat tube and the edge of the chainstays. We get the top feathers, the welding of the structure is completed.

Welded joints of feathers and carriage glass

The next stage is the manufacture and pressing of the fork in the front of the frame. The whole process comes down to welding three metal pipes and making special cones for pressing. The length of the fork should be such that the level of the lower end coincides with the point of the stays on the rear triangle of the welded frame.

A homemade fork is an energy-intensive option, it is better to make it in the image and likeness of an existing one or buy a ready-made one for a made frame.

Pressing is done in a horizontal position:

Installation of bearings.
Fixation of cones on balls.
Cape washer on the fork stem.
Tightening the locknut.

The steering wheel is installed in the fork housing. It can be made from improvised means, the same metal pipes, and a special threaded lock can be screwed on, but it is better to buy it separately. It turns out that everything except the frame will have to be bought and follow the standard rule of building a bike out of the box? Almost. After all, you still need to weld dropouts under rear wheel and you have to do it by hand. And if the fork is homemade, seats are also made under the front wheel.

So, dropouts are made according to the scheme:

Cut out small metal plates, but so that they can be well welded to the frame pipes.
Using a jigsaw, make holes in the plates, the dimensions of which must correspond to the diameter of the wheel axle and fixing nuts.
With the side opposite the hole, the part is carefully welded to the frame.

Both mounting holes must be placed at exactly the same level, otherwise the wheel will not sit on the dropouts. And one more thing: the distance between the mounting holes must, at least, correspond to the tightening of the nuts "to the stop". In other words, the wheel should not fall off the dropouts at least with maximum twist.

So the holes of the dropouts should match along the axis

Installing the handlebar, saddle, bottom bracket and wheels

To get a full-fledged bike, you need to put all the working units listed in the title on a homemade skeleton. by the most difficult stage there will be an installation of the carriage and the “cranks-pedals” system.

The handlebar is inserted into the fork body and is firmly fixed with a bolt on the top. Before installation, it is recommended to lightly lubricate the inner walls of the fork, as well as accurately set the position of the steering wheel - the handles are strictly perpendicular to the course of the bicycle. Twisting can bring down the direct position of the steering wheel. It's not scary, it's enough to correct the position with one hand, holding the frame firmly with the other.

It is inserted into a vertical pipe and fixed with a metal clamp with a nut. The height of the saddle on a road bike is matched to the height of the handlebars.

The next stage is in a glass. The carriage is a complex transmission unit that, when installed, will require a special tool - squeeze. All work on the assembly of parts is carried out in a strictly specified order.

Tool for shooting and tightening connecting rods

And finally, inserting the wheels into the seats. Remember that homemade dropouts must be precisely agreed in advance before manufacturing, otherwise they will have to be cut off, made and welded on again. Wheel installation sequence:

Put the chain on the drive and driven star.
Insert the rear wheel into the dropouts.
Install a metal clamp on the lower chainstay of the bicycle, fasten the brake lock to it.
Tighten wheel nuts.
Install the front wheel into the seats, tighten until it stops.

When tightening, it is better to use a dynamometer to obtain accurate tightening torques and geometric integrity. For a homemade design, this is especially important.

As you can see, homemade for a bike is a very conditional concept. It is still realistic to make the supporting structure yourself, but the rest of the components will have to be bought. Nevertheless, even such a bike deserves the title of exclusive: it is made and assembled by yourself. The completion of the work will be a thorough running-in of your offspring, identifying and correcting shortcomings.

When starting to create bicycles with their own hands, craftsmen should evaluate how often and for what purposes they plan to use homemade bicycles. A self-made two-wheeled structure, rather, an experiment, an opportunity to prove to myself: I can do more than others, because I collect vehicle from scratch is hard work. Many parts cannot be made on their own, so you have to run around special stores for such components.

Another important point- to understand very clearly why each bike node is needed, which components cannot be abandoned, otherwise it will suffer or it will not travel more than 2 m.

Components of a homemade bicycle

Frame

If there is a frame left from an old, leaky bicycle, it’s great, the main thing is that it be in good condition and not have rust. If there is no frame, it does not matter either, purchase steel, aluminum or titanium narrow pipes.

The basis is a drawing, which displays all the components of the bike. It is better if the sketch is made in 3D mode on a computer, you can immediately assess the actual dimensions of the necessary parts and get an impression of the proportionality of each. Welding remains the preferred method of connecting functional components, if it is additionally planned to fix the trunk to the frame or, provide recesses for the bolts. Holes are also left for bolts for attachments.

front fork

It's hard to imagine homemade functioning bikes without a front fork. If you plan to ride a bike, sliding down the mountain and climbing up, it is better to build in a soft shock absorber. IN mountain models do not mount BMX plugs - they are too heavy. When making a plug with your own hands, calculate the following parameters:

fork travel;
method of fixing the brakes;
preferred wheel diameter.

Transmission and brake

Transmission nodes are selected based on the amount allocated for this part of the bike. Experts do not advise assembling the chain with your own hands or creating a speed switch, just waste your time, good quality you still won't get it. Arriving at the store, choose a classic transmission, the placental format has a number of significant drawbacks.

They are divided into rim and disc. If cycling is done in dry weather, rim brake pads are suitable, they are inexpensive and greatly facilitate the design. Extreme travel rim brakes will not stand up - equip disc brakes. With the latest, riding safety and comfort for the cyclist are ensured.

The wheels, of course, should be bought ready-made, however, as well as the saddle. If you prefer a sporty style of riding - pay attention to rigid and elastic saddles that take into account the anatomical features of the cyclist.

It would seem that it is easier to choose pedals. Beginners in cycling believe that, apart from the classics, the designers have not come up with anything else, but they are mistaken. Upgraded fittings keep your feet firmly in place so your feet don't slip off so you don't have to make unplanned stops. This also increases the risk of injury on the road.

How to make a bike with a comfortable steering wheel, experts suggest. It must meet the basic requirements:

ergonomics;
reliability;
strength.

The steering wheel is bent according to a pre-made sketch, while do not forget that it has important control components that control the activation of the brakes, knobs that switch speeds, a horn, a headlight. In modern bikes, you can equip an on-board computer.

The steering wheel is fixed to the stem, preferably the last component is adjustable. To assemble the steering wheel, use durable materials that will not let you down: steel, titanium or carbon.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bicycle yourself

Frame creation

How to make a bicycle with your own hands, starting from the frame, craftsmen tell. It is unlikely that you can do the work yourself, so enlist the help of a friend. For the frame, prepare 7 pipes, 2 of them should be short, 4 medium - they are placed for the rear feathers, the long ones remain for the seat component.

Follow this frame assembly sequence:

Attach the lower main pipe to the bottom bracket using a welding machine.
It should be fixed to the lower edge of the steering tube located in front of the bike. The position of the helmsman is relative to the perpendicular of the bottom bracket shell.
Following the parallel of the head tube to the glass, weld the seat tube to the down tube, taking into account the desired angle of inclination.
Then weld the seat tube and front tube to the main top tube. The front frame is complete.
Proceed to welding the lower stays to the glass of the carriage. The angle to the seat profile must match the angle of the main bottom.
Join the top end of the seatpost to the edge of the chainstay to form the chainstay.

Pressing the fork and making dropouts

The fork is pressed in in a horizontal position. How to make a bicycle yourself with your own hands at the stage of pressing the fork, step by step instructions masters provide:

Mount bearings.
Attach the cones to the balls
Put the washer on the shock absorber rod.
Tighten the locknuts firmly, but do not over-tighten so as not to break the connection.

Take a metal plate and cut out some pieces.
Armed with a jigsaw, make recesses in the details, the size of which should fit the diameter of the wheel axle and fixing nuts.
The part is welded to the frame, applying the side devoid of holes.

Landing recesses are placed at the same level, otherwise the wheel will not sit on the dropouts. The step between the mounting holes is equal to the tightening of the nuts to the maximum.

Mounting the remaining components

A fully functioning great bike requires the installation of working units on the skeleton. The most difficult thing is to install on your bottom bracket and debug the cranks and pedals. And again, you can’t do without a guide on how to make a bike with your own hands:

Secure the steering wheel mounted in the shock absorber housing with a bolt. The plug must be well lubricated before starting work.
Insert the seatpost vertically into the tube and secure it with a metal clamp with a nut.
Install the carriage into the glass using a squeeze.
After installing the chain, install the wheels.

Conclusion

Now you have the knowledge of how to make a bicycle with your own hands almost from scratch. The work begins with the creation of a drawing, and after that the idea of the master is gradually being realized. Some components you can make yourself, others are better to buy, so be prepared for expenses. The made bike will become a real attraction of the area, for sure everyone will want to ride on such a device.

From this instruction you will learn how to make a chopper bike with your own hands and at the same time quite inexpensively.

When assembling a homemade chopper, I tried to use as many components as possible from old bikes and unnecessary materials.

As a basis for a homemade chopper, I took an old 25-year-old female racing bike Wisp Raleigh. In the end, I turned it into a very good cruiser.

What you need to assemble a homemade chopper:

Donor bike.
Welding machine.
I used a Clarke 105EN welder.
Steel pipes for the fork.
Must be strong enough not to bend under heavy loads.
Steel tubes to lengthen the frame after it has been cut.
It is easier to weld two pipes of different diameters than two pipes of the same diameter, and besides, the construction of pipes of the same diameter is less strong. Therefore, the diameter of the pipes must be either slightly smaller than the frame pipes (so that they can be inserted inside the cut pipes), or larger (so that the frame pipes can be inserted into them). Choose pipes of the same diameter only if you are a welding professional.
Several sheets of steel.
I used 1.4 mm thick steel sheets, which are great for cruiser plates.
New chains.
After increasing the frame size, the chain will need to be much bigger size. Buy two inexpensive chains and chain them together.
Pipe bending machine.
This is useful if you want to significantly change the frame angles without cutting the extension tubes at an angle.

So, let's get to work. Let's start assembling the chopper by making the fork.

Step 2: Making the chopper fork.

First we need to get a suitable fork.

First you need:

Dismantle the front of the bike - remove the handlebar, stem, steering column and unscrew the fork.
Position the bike so that the steering column is at the optimum height when riding. At this stage, don't worry about the corners. Measure the required fork length.
As you can see from the photo, I set the bike on the bench at about the required height and measured the distance from the top of the steering column to the front wheel axle. It came out about 1.22 meters. A decent size - we should get a long bike.
I was lucky - I found where you can buy good pipes - I bought a steel pipe 2.44 meters long for only $ 4.
Then, using an angle grinder, cut the pipe in half. Next, stand two pipes vertically and grind their ends with a grinder so that they become the same size (see photo above).

Step 3: Making dropouts for the fork.

At this stage, the fork for our homemade chopper is just two tubes. In this state, there is no way to install a wheel on it, so we have to do a couple of dropouts.

The photo above shows what we should get.

Fork dropouts must be strong. To make them, I used several steel plates about 3 mm thick, which fit perfectly.

Attach the dropouts from the fork of the bike to the steel plate as shown in the photo above. Mark the outlines where you can cut out the dropouts for the chopper fork.

Using an angle grinder, cut out two blanks of dropouts from steel.

Since the angle grinder (shown in the photo above) does not allow you to cut parts with the required accuracy, the dropouts of the fork will differ slightly in size. I clamped the dropouts of the fork in a vise and trimmed the edges on the grinder.

The photo shows the dropouts after grinding. The smoother the surface, the better the contact with the wheel.

Clamp the two pieces together as shown in the photo above and cut out the axle sockets. Using this method, you will be sure that with an angle grinder you can cut two identical sockets. Don't rush - don't cut the socket too big so your chopper wheel won't pop out of the dropouts later. It is necessary to carve a socket of such a size that the wheel axle sits tightly enough in it. Gradually fit the wheel axle to the seat until it fits perfectly. It is necessary to achieve an exact match without backlash, as I did (look at the photos below).

Next, weld the dropouts to the fork. To keep the dropout in the fork, I used a magnetic holder. When I welded the dropouts, I made a mistake - I placed them right in the center of the pipe, although they should have been welded closer to one of the edges. I only noticed my mistake during a test ride when the wheel spokes began to scrape across inside fork pipes. Luckily I had another wheel that fit better, but anyway, please note my mistake.

Lightly weld the dropouts to the fork as shown in the photo above. Check if they are installed correctly. When you are sure everything is good, weld the dropouts securely. The time spent earlier on making smooth edges should now pay off handsomely.

Step 4: Making the fork top.

So, we already have a fork in the form of two pipes with dropouts welded to them.

To equip with thread upper part forks, we need a few nuts, bolts and washers. I bought a pack of M10 bolts, nuts, and some cheap M10 washers (10mm diameter). This kit is quite inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store.

Assemble the bolt, washer and nut. Weld each face of the nut to the washer.

Remove the bolt so that only the nut with the welded washer remains.

Finally, weld the washer to the nut in the manner shown in the photo above. Now you have a strong enough mount on the top of the fork that we can screw the bolt into.

Step 5: Do-it-yourself chopper fork (the first stage of manufacturing).

To summarize, we have two pipes with dropouts welded on one side and a nut welded on the other.

We continue to manufacture a fork for a homemade cruiser.

Cut off the legs of the fork from the old bike. Try to make the base as flat as possible.

Using a piece of cardboard as a template, draw a semicircle around the tubes of the new fork as shown in the photo above. Outline the shape of the crown for the new fork with a marker. Using an angle grinder, cut the crown along the traced outline. Do not rush - it is very important to achieve the most correct form.

Attach the wheel to the dropouts. This will set the required fork width. Next, position the crown stem between the fork tubes. If at the previous stages you did everything carefully, then the stem with the crown will fall exactly into place. Using another piece of cardboard, mark and cut out three holes for the three pipes to pass through. This will give us a cardboard template that we will use to make the base plate and the top plate. Trim the cardboard so that it has a nice, neat shape.

We make the base plate. Using the cardboard template, cut out the sheet steel plate. For this purpose, I used a sheet of steel 1.4 mm thick, on which I marked two external holes (through which the legs of the fork go). Using an angle grinder, cut the steel sheet as shown in the photo above to make a base plate. Weld the base plate to the fork crown. Work carefully, try not to let the particles of molten metal get on the bearing race!

Next, we need to make a takeaway. You can simply cut off the top of the existing stem. I decided to make a stem from scratch, as I already had a steel pipe that perfectly matched the inside diameter of the fork stem.

Using an angle grinder, cut one end of the pipe at a 45 degree angle as shown in the photo above.

Shorten the tube as shown in the photo above to fit the stem bolt and wedge. Everything, the manufacture of a homemade takeaway is finished. You can skip these steps if you just cut off the top from the existing stem.

Install the new stem onto the fork stem as shown in the photo above. Once again place the stem and crown between the legs of the fork. Ask someone to help you keep everything together. I just fastened all the components with a belt. The top head tube nuts should be about one inch below the top of the fork.

If you did everything right and centered the base plate well, then weld it to the fork.

Step 6: Do-it-yourself chopper fork (second stage of production).

So, we have two fork tubes welded to the stem and crown. Next, we need to make the top plate with which we will connect everything together.

To cut the required shape from a sheet of steel, we need a previously made cardboard template. Mark the centers of the two legs of the forks and the stem bolt on the steel sheet. Since I used bolts with a diameter of 10 mm, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 15 mm in the center of the fork and a hole with a diameter of about 10 mm for the stem bolt. It does not matter if the hole diameter is larger than the diameter of the bolts, since we will still use washers during assembly.

Drilled top plate.

A plate bolted to the top of the fork. Ignore the clip that holds the bolt. We'll talk about him later.

So - the fork is ready. The tubes are welded to the base plate, which is in turn welded to the fork crown. We made the top plate and fixed it securely with bolts.

Homemade chopper with fork installed. The fork looks good, but in order to ride the bike, we will have to seriously modify the frame, which we will deal with in the next step.

Step 7: DIY chopper frame (first assembly step).

First, think carefully about what you are going to do with the frame. For a long time I could not decide what I could turn my frame into, but in the end I got a good frame for a chopper.

Frame before cutting (inverted).

After trimming, the bottom bracket is closer to the front of the bike. Next we need to lengthen the frame.

The photo above is shown after cropping. Now there is no way back. I want to keep the double top tube, which would look great on a homemade chopper. So I cut it as close to the rear hub as possible.

The next step is to make a layout of the new frame design. It is very important to install the wheels in order to measure the required frame height. To create this layout, I propped up the bottom bracket and lengthened the frame with some thin tubes. I noticed that the twin top tube is too low, so I had to bend the top tube a bit to get the saddle to the correct height. If you accidentally break the top tube, for example, split at the weld, then you will have to use welding to repair. I actually accidentally broke the frame and solved this problem with welding.

I was completely satisfied with the shape and construction of the new frame, so the next step was to lengthen the frame by installing two steel pipes in between the bottom bracket and two pipes running down from the seat tube.

To properly cut the two pipes, I had to use measurements from the layout. Since the angle of the down tube was changed, a slight bend had to be created next to the bottom bracket. To do this, I had to use a pipe bending machine. The photo above clearly shows why the bend was needed.

At this stage, the seat tube is not attached to anything - it just dangles. Here we are going to deal with it further - we will fix its lower part.

Using a piece of cardboard as a template, I made a sheet steel plate which I placed under the seat tube and welded the plate to the top of the horizontal tubes. In this way, I increased the strength of the connection of the two new pipes to the rear pipes. Then I welded the seat tube to the plate.

Now let's turn our attention to the top tube. Again, the top tube is just dangling - it's not attached to anything yet.

I made another plate out of sheet steel. This is not shown in the photo, but I used an angle grinder to make a socket in the seat tube, into which I inserted a steel plate and then I welded it to the seat tube. In this way, I increased the strength of the joint and reduced the load on the weld. I then welded the top two tubes to the steel plate.

Step 8: Do-it-yourself chopper frame (second assembly step).

The next step is to attach another steel tube between the bottom bracket and the top tube. This will change the location of the seat tube, which is now directed towards the rear of the frame.

The photo above shows how, using a cardboard template, I made a plate from a sheet of steel and welded it to a new steel pipe. It took only a few attempts to get the right angle, so try to weld only lightly so that in the future it will be easier to break, grind and re-weld if something happens.

Determine as accurately as possible correct length pipes so that it does not touch the axis of the carriage if it turns out to be too long. Also make sure that the tube goes into the carriage, but not too far.

Fully welded frame for homemade chopper.

Step 9: Making the Chopper Saddle

I'm going to take full advantage of having a dual top tube and put a saddle on it.

The saddle will be a simple construction of boards, foam and leather.

I bolted two boards together and drilled holes in the wood to the plate below. I fixed the saddle well with bolts and nuts.

Using a heavy-duty construction stapler, I attached the foam to the wood.

Using a stapler, I attached the leather to the saddle.

Step 10: DIY chopper wheel.

The next step is to install the steering wheel.

The steering wheel can be installed in three different ways:

Use an existing steering wheel.
In my case, it was, which was not suitable for installation on a chopper.
Make your own steering wheel.
If you have steel pipes, then you can make a handlebar with a pipe bender or by cutting and welding pipes into the required shape.
Use a different steering wheel.
I found some old steering wheels, which I decided to use.

First we need to make a clamp.

I used a removable lock from a donor saddle.

The photo above shows the saddle mount mounted on the handlebar. It turned out pretty well, so we will use this design.

Weld the saddle clamps to the top plate.

Weld the clamp from the saddle to the top plate and install the handlebar into the mount.

We now have a fully adjustable handlebar mount.

Step 11: Brakes for the homemade chopper.

If you're going to use the same wheels that came with your bike, you shouldn't have any problems at this stage.

I wasn't happy with the 27" wheels that came with the bike, so I decided to switch to the more stable 26" wheels for the . At the same time, I had to change the brake suspension a little.

When welding, always cover with a wet cloth so as not to damage it with the welding machine.

I figured out where to install the caliper brake and welded a plate onto the rear triangle stays. Please note that the mounting hole is not centered, which was due to errors in the calculation of the dimensions of my frame.

Before final welding, check the correct installation and normal operation of the caliper brake.

Welded plate and installed caliper brake.

I used a spare brake lever that I took from another bike.

Step 12: Chopper assembly and testing.

Build the bike and take a test ride.

I decided to abandon the existing system and turn the bike into a .

I bought a single speed adapter online for $24 that just replaced my existing gearshift system.

Since the bike is now much longer, I had to purchase two inexpensive chains ($2 each) and chain them together.

Photo of a homemade chopper.

Step 13: Finishing up the chopper.

Disassemble the bike. Using a sander and a sanding disc, clean the bike of spatter and welding drips.

Paint the frame and fork. At the same time, be careful - protect the bearing rings and all threaded places from paint. To avoid paint streaks, apply paint in several thin layers.

Step 14: Additional changes to the chopper design.

I got a bit bored with the bike so I decided to make some changes.

I disassembled the bike and cut off back.

Step 15: Aligning the Back.

I cut off the back of a small mountain bike.

It was from a full suspension bike, so I used an angle grinder to sand down the extra frame parts.

Step 16: Installing lower extension pipes.

I cut two pipes and welded them on to lengthen the frame.

Step 17: Homemade chopper is ready.

I welded two more long pipes on top. Then I painted and assembled the bike.

Now the rear wheel is equipped with a foot brake, so I no longer need the old rear brake, cables and levers.

I hope you found this DIY chopper assembly tutorial helpful!

Got a puncture or a nipple came off? This is not a reason to throw the camera in the trash and consign it to oblivion. We have found for you 7 things you can do with an old retired bike tube.

Belt

Not only do you have a worn-out camera, but also old, mismatched pants that fall off while riding? A bike tube strap is a great way to kill two birds with one stone. The technology is not very complicated and if you have the necessary tools, you can handle it yourself. Otherwise, go to any tailor and get the coolest belt among riders. Look there, and launch mass production.

Wallet

Agree, to give the last money to buy a good wallet is something from the category of "Gifts of the Magi". That's why making your own wallet out of your own old camera is so cool - when you're done, you'll have something to put in it. The wallet in the picture can be bought in an online store (Piccola wallet model for $25). But it is enough to show a little ingenuity by following the instructions.

Wings

If you're lucky enough to live in an arid area where the rain showers its wet caress infrequently enough not to spend extra money on buying good wings, then you can guess what can be done. This will require a chamber, plates inside the chamber to maintain shape (these can be cutouts from plastic bottles) and wire to create a fastener. No complications, clear instructions.

Campfire Starter

If you need something waterproof that can keep the flame burning for a long time, just wrap a small piece of the chamber around the kindling and light it. Look at the video how cool the camera is on fire. Apply this trick when you are in complete despair, because burning rubber is still an unpleasant smell and harmful toxins.

Foot mat

Yes, that's also possible. This is where knitting skills come in handy. Using a needle or hook, you need to stretch the loops from the chamber to other loops, and continue until the desired fashionable floor “rag” comes out.

Tool case

Keep your keys and screwdrivers in this rubber case to keep them from rattling. For each individual tool, you will have to make your own pocket. This seven-step guide shows how you can achieve the desired result and organize the storage of bicycle tools in a bicycle chamber.

chair seat

Repair, upgrade your old chair, or make your seat a little more comfortable. Even if your own inventory of bike tubes is not enough, any local bike shop will share with you. What, not even a suitable chair? Well, then you can find an inexpensive one at some sale and go needlework. Here is the instruction.

Friends, we are sure that our man has already come up with hundreds of his inventions from an old bicycle tube. Tell everyone in the comments.

DIY motorbike

I am not a fan of high-speed driving: 40-50 km / h in the vicinity of the cottage for me is quite fast. And in order to move one hundred kilograms of "My Majesty", neither prohibitive power nor the elephantine mass of the carrying "piece of iron" is needed.

Someone will advise: well, take a fifty-kopeck scooter!

First, the "stools" are expensive. Secondly, in the village where the dacha is, this is “equipment before the first breakdown” - it is unlikely that 300 km from the city I can easily find, if necessary, an imported spare part.

Thirdly, the scooter weighs a lot: how to take it to the dacha in a passenger car? Ride on your own? Not funny! After 300 km of travel, I will be left without arms, without legs, without a fifth point ...

Two “slackers” “married” go to the country.

When I was thinking about this, I came across the material “We Ride Standing” in “Moto” No. 9 for 2005. The author told how he adapted the “deshka” motor to the scooter. Hooked - and I rushed to the bike market.

Yes, the trouble is, the sellers unanimously claimed that now they don’t release “cheap money” (maybe they lied?). I don’t know how it would have ended, but I remembered the Mole. The one that “lives” in my dacha and cultivates the land for only two days a year: one in May, the second in September. His 60-cc two-stroke is twice as powerful as the cheap one - 2.6 horses versus 1.3. Assembled with gas tank, muffler, manual starter, air filter and gearbox. And I decided to adapt it to another "loafer" - a folding bike that has been gathering dust on the mezzanine for three years.

Gas lever (indicated by an arrow).

I made a shelf from a 5 mm duralumin sheet, installed it instead of the rear trunk. In a vertical plane, it is held by two racks from an old bicycle. In the longitudinal - a hole with which it is put on the pipe, a saddle is fixed in the hole. And the transverse stability of the structure is guaranteed by a slope on the right side. To this fairly rigid structure, the motor was screwed with four bolts.

Left on the steering wheel: 1 - clutch release lever; 2 - latch lever; 3 - ignition off button.

The drive to the rear wheel was made by a belt, with a tension roller from the VAZ G8 timing belt. The driving pulley left the regular one, and the driven one came up in terms of the gear ratio from the MB walk-behind tractor. It is aluminum, two-strand. On a lathe, I cut off an extra stream - the one that is wider. How do you attach a pulley to a wheel? I found another pulley (the slope of the side surfaces of most of the pulleys corresponds to the angle of inclination of the spokes), made cuts in it with a “grinder”, coinciding with the crosshairs of the spokes. I installed it exactly in the center of the wheel using a special bushing. I drilled holes in it and bolted it to the spokes through large washers. And already a driven pulley was screwed to it with three screws. The gear ratio turned out to be extremely successful. And one more thing: the drive pulley is double, and next to the engine on the shelf there is enough space for a small generator. Do you catch the thread?

Clutch mechanism: 1 - cable; 2 - plate; 3 - bolts - guide plates; 4 - roller; 5 - springs.

The "Mole" does not have a clutch mechanism. And why not give the belt drive its functions? For this, the roller tensioning the belt did not become rigidly fixed - it is constantly pressed by a spring. If, by squeezing it, move the roller, the belt slips. Here's your clutch! Homemade clutch release lever. The free play of the plate with the roller is as much as 7 cm (this is with a margin - after all, the belt is pulled out over time), and for motorcycle clutch levers it is no more than 2 cm. What happened can be seen in the photo. The disadvantage of the design is that you have to directly, without a reinforcing shoulder, “fight” with the tension roller springs. But this can be endured - my device does not have a gearbox, so I have to work with the clutch lever very rarely - only during start and stop. The lever in the clamped position fixes a small locking lever. It helps out when you need to turn off the clutch for a long time, for example, when riding “like a bicycle”. Instead of a clutch cable, I inserted a thin steel wire lubricated with lithol into the braid. The braid does not have sharp bends, so the wire moves easily in it. The main advantage of such a replacement is that the wire is much more reliable than the rope that is scarce in the village.

The main component is under the baseball cap.

The front and rear brakes are conventional bicycle brakes. The rest of the controls on the steering wheel are regular from the "Mole": on the left - "jammer", on the right under thumb- throttle lever.

Tested in December. Starting the motor - cord. Started with pedals. Two or three turns - and you can forget about them.

By the way, the “Mole” forced cooling fan ensures that the motor does not overheat at low speed. I asked a friend of the car driver to drive in sync with me in order to fix the speed. It turned out that the "maximum speed" is over 60 km / h. But such a speed seemed dangerous to me - a bicycle after all. And at 40 km / h - a real pleasure! For this engine, "forty" is a walking mode. Any rise for him is a trifle.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

What did I get? What I wanted. It is easy to put an individual folding vehicle weighing 32 kg (a bicycle - 20, an engine - 12) in the trunk of my Zhiguli, capable of moving "My Majesty" at a speed of 60 km / h and a little faster. It takes five to ten minutes to assemble and disassemble. Gasoline consumption - no more than 2-2.5 liters per 100 km. There is nothing to break in my design. In stock, it is enough to keep a belt, one or two meters of steel wire and a tension roller from the "eight"! And last but not least, there are pedals.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

Common data:

dry weight - 32 kg,
length - 1830 mm,
height - 1100 mm,
seat height - 850-950 mm,
width - 600 mm,
base - 1230 mm,
ground clearance - 180 mm,
gas tank volume - 1.8 l,
maximum speed - more than 60 km / h.

Engine- "Mole", working volume - 60 cm3, power - 2.6 hp, carburetor - K60V.

Transmission:
homemade belt drive, belt - 1400 mm,
drive pulley - regular 60 mm, outer diameter of the driven pulley - 255 mm
(optimal for a wheel diameter of 600 mm). Chassis:
folding bike "Impulse".

Tires:
front and back - 47-507.

Brakes:
regular bicycles. Electrical equipment: not yet available.