How to install a chain on a sports bike. How to put a chain on a speed bike. What you need to know about customization

Frequently asked questions how to fix a chain children's bike ? This is a common and common problem especially in children's bikes.

Why does the chain break?

- This is mainly due to the fact that the chain was initially overtightened, and when driving under load due to tension, the chain lock simply does not stand up and flies off.

- This can also happen if the front sprocket is deformed.

— The chain lock was not properly latched.

What to do if the chain on a children's bike breaks?

You can bring the bike to ours or fix it yourself.

In case you decide to repair the bike on your own.

You still have a chain, but most likely chain lock lost and you will have to buy a new one. It is called the chain lock for. Estimated cost 5,000 - 10,000 bel. rubles. Sold in almost all bike shops. and looks like this:

How to fix a chain on a children's bike?

To do this, you need to remove the chain protection if it prevents you from reaching the sprockets. Put the chain on the sprockets and connect it, from the side of the frame, with the chain lock, which has two guides.

Then slide the record onto these guides.

And using a screwdriver or pliers, put the lock on the rails until it clicks. It should fall into the grooves and not hang out.

After you have installed the lock, check the "slack" of the chain, to do this, press the chain with your finger, if it is pressed tightly and strongly stretched, you should loosen it slightly. Simply unscrew the right bolt that holds the wheel (usually a 17 wrench is required for this if the side wheels are not installed, if they are installed you will also need a 15 wrench), put your finger on the chain and tighten the bolt. The chain should “sag” no more than 0.5 cm.

If the chain was in the sand, beforehand, it is better to clean and wash it, and lubricate it after installation (). Install the chain guard and go)

Replacing a bicycle chain is an essential skill for every home "mechanic". The chain is a consumable material for a bicycle transmission. Over time, it tends to stretch and wear out. So sooner or later it will be time for a replacement.

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bike. The instructions are suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for the job

Squeezing the chain;
Chain wear indicator (chain stretch tester);
Bicycle spoke;
Pliers;

Step-by-step instruction

Bicycle transmission elements of most manufacturers, with rare exceptions, are compatible with each other. It is only necessary to choose the same number of transmission and chain speeds. For example, for a transmission with nine gears, you need a chain designed for the same number of speeds.

1. Removing the old chain

Using a chain squeezer, squeeze out one of the rollers (the pin that connects the chain links) in the lower chain passage. If there is a lock link, then get it. After removing the roller, carefully remove the chain from the bike.

If you use one chain for a long time without replacement, you may need to replace the cassette as well.

2. Installing a new chain

Shift reverse and forward gears to the largest sprockets. If the bike has a clutch mechanism, then loosen it.

Put the chain on the front sprocket, pull the end through the front shifter. Rotate the pedals so that the end of the chain hangs down from the sprocket about 10 centimeters. Pull the other end through the rear fork of the bike frame and over the largest sprocket of the cassette. Lower the rear shifter down.

Throw the chain over the idler roller, pull it through the legs of the mechanism, wrap it around the tensioner roller. Carefully release the shift mechanism.

3. Chain measurement

You need to make sure that the chain will behave properly when shifting into any gear without damaging other parts of the bike. To check the chain must be installed on the two largest sprockets, front and rear. Even if you never ride in such a gear.

Align the two ends of the chain and determine the extra links that need to be removed. To fix the chain in this position, use a piece of a bicycle spoke.

When using Shimano chains, a link with inner plates should remain at one end, with outer ones at the other. Chains made by SRAM and KMC must have links with inner plates at both ends.

After the required chain length is determined, remove unnecessary links. Throw the chain back onto the smallest sprockets.

Attention! On full-suspension mountain bikes, you need to make sure that there is enough chain length to compress the suspension.

4. Chain connection

For Shimano chains, it is necessary to connect both ends with a roller. After installation, the excess part of the roller is broken off with pliers.

For SRAM and KMC, a special locking link is inserted between the ends of the chain, then the plates snap into place. For a complete connection, special pliers are used, but you can use the following method.

Scroll the pedals so that the lock link is in the middle of the upper passage. Then hold rear wheel so that it doesn't scroll. Press down on the pedals, and the locking link will finally sit in its place. Make sure the chain is installed correctly. Pedal the bike using all gears.

Chain Care

Regular cleaning and lubrication - The best way prolong chain life. Use a special lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Lubricate each roller. Lubricate the chain only from the inside, there should be no lubricant on the outside.

You should not scroll the chain in the opposite direction and apply lubricant in a hurry. In addition to the increased consumption of funds, you can overload the links. Always remove excess grease with a rag. After riding in wet weather, wipe the chain dry and re-lubricate. This will prevent rust and chain stretch.

Worn links

There is an opinion that the chain is stretched due to incorrect driving. In fact, the effect of chain elongation is a consequence of the wear of the rollers and rollers. As the chain wears, it damages the teeth of the sprocket, causing the chain to slip. There are special tools for determining chain wear.

More in a simple way determining chain wear is to measure 12 links. If the number is 308mm or higher, then the chain and cassette need to be replaced. In the new chain, the length of 12 links is exactly 304.8 mm.

Wringer and chain wear indicator

There is a wide variety of pomace different size from various manufacturers. It is worth noting that this tool is definitely a must for those who want to change the chain themselves. Chain wear can be determined using a straightedge. But for constant monitoring, it is better to purchase a special tool - a chain wear indicator.

Let's see why the chain flies. There are two options: either you have a bent star on the system (the system is a front set of sprockets), or the speeds are poorly configured.

If you have bent star on the system, in this case, you can continue moving simply by switching to another speed at which the star is not bent. But if you use all the speeds while driving, then in the future you will have to replace a bent star. If the system is collapsible, you can only replace one damaged star. If the system is non-separable, you will have to change the entire system along with the connecting rod.

If everything is fine with your connecting rods (what is a connecting rod?), it means that the speeds are badly configured. On each of the derailleurs, both front and rear, there are adjusting bolts that do not allow the chain to go beyond extreme speeds. If they are not adjusted correctly, the chain will fly off. If the chain flies off big star, then you need to screw in the bolt with the index L, which means low - the easiest gear.

You need to screw in until the stars on the switch are parallel to the large star. The same on the reverse side: if your chain flies off the smallest star, you need to screw in the bolt with the H (high) index.

Screw it in until the switch is parallel to the seventh speed.

If the front of the chain drops from the small star to the frame, then tighten the low bolt.

To properly adjust the bolt labeled low, you need to set the bike to the lightest speed and screw it in until there is a gap of 1 mm between the inner derailleur ring and the chain.

If the chain falls from the big star to the connecting rod, then screw in the high bolt.

To properly adjust the high bolt, you need to set the bike to the highest speed and twist it until there is a gap of 1 mm between the chain and the outer frame of the derailleur.

These were the most common causes of chain slip. Now let's talk about her breakup.

2. Broken chain

The most common cause of a broken chain is shifting gears under load, such as when you are driving uphill. When broken, a chain link can either rivet or break. If the link is riveted, you can try to rivet it back. To do this, you will need a chain puller, so it is best to always carry one with you. If the link is broken, it is necessary to remove it and the link adjacent to it, too, and rivet the chain using the same puller.

Putting the chain back is not difficult. To do this, pull back the rear derailleur while loosening the chain and place it on the front sprocket.

Today you learned why the chain can fly off and break, as well as how to solve these two problems with your own hands.

Don't miss the next issue, stay tuned to Slenergy!

Music used in video:

JK Soul - I know this (Original Edit)

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bike. The instructions are suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for the job

Squeezing the chain;
Chain wear indicator (chain stretch tester);
Bicycle spoke;
Pliers;

Step-by-step instruction

1. Removing the old chain

If you use one chain for a long time without replacement, you may need to replace the cassette as well.

2. Installing a new chain

Shift reverse and forward gears to the largest sprockets. If the bike has a clutch mechanism, then loosen it.

Put the chain on the front sprocket, pull the end through the front shifter. Rotate the pedals so that the end of the chain hangs down from the sprocket about 10 centimeters. Pull the other end through the rear fork of the bike frame and over the largest sprocket of the cassette. Lower the rear shifter down.

Throw the chain over the idler roller, pull it through the legs of the mechanism, wrap it around the tensioner roller. Carefully release the shift mechanism.

3. Chain measurement

Align the two ends of the chain and determine the extra links that need to be removed. To fix the chain in this position, use a piece of a bicycle spoke.

When using Shimano chains, a link with inner plates should remain at one end, with outer ones at the other. Chains made by SRAM and KMC must have links with inner plates at both ends.

After the required chain length is determined, remove unnecessary links. Throw the chain back onto the smallest sprockets.

Attention! On full-suspension mountain bikes, you need to make sure that there is enough chain length to compress the suspension.

4. Chain connection

For Shimano chains, it is necessary to connect both ends with a roller. After installation, the excess part of the roller is broken off with pliers.

For SRAM and KMC, a special locking link is inserted between the ends of the chain, then the plates snap into place. For a complete connection, special pliers are used, but you can use the following method.

Scroll the pedals so that the lock link is in the middle of the upper passage. Then hold the rear wheel so that it does not spin. Press down on the pedals, and the locking link will finally sit in its place. Make sure the chain is installed correctly. Pedal the bike using all gears.

Chain Care

Regular cleaning and lubrication is the best way to prolong the life of your chain. Use a special lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Lubricate each roller. Lubricate the chain only from the inside, there should be no lubricant on the outside.

Worn links

An easier way to determine chain wear is to measure 12 links. If the number is 308mm or higher, then the chain and cassette need to be replaced. In the new chain, the length of 12 links is exactly 304.8 mm.

Wringer and chain wear indicator

There is a wide variety of pomace of different sizes from different manufacturers. It is worth noting that this tool is definitely a must for those who want to change the chain themselves. Chain wear can be determined using a straightedge. But for constant monitoring, it is better to purchase a special tool - a chain wear indicator.

Sooner or later, every avid cyclist has a chain failure. Luckily, there's no need to take your bike to an expensive repair shop if you can fix it yourself. The following tips will help you fix the problem as soon as possible.

Method 1 of 2: Replacing a Broken Chain

1. Assess the breakdown and try to do something. If the chain breaks while riding, roll the bike to the curb and lay it on its side, sprockets up. Inspect the chain break - most likely the chain is hanging on the sprocket, and you can easily find two broken ends. IN conventional chain the links are connected to each other by means of a pin (pin, or cylindrical cup) that fastens the plates of the inner link through which the pin passes, and a roller located on top of the cup. Therefore, if you are an experienced cyclist and you carry a chain fitting tool and spare parts with you, you can fix the chain yourself and re-tension it (see Method 2).

Basically, bicycle chains fall into three categories:

Chains with special rivets. Special rivets from the manufacturer are supplied with such chains. If you do not have such rivets with you, then, to repair the chain, you will have to get to the nearest bike parts store.

Chains with closing links. These chains have a special link with two rivets that connect the ends of the chain. If this link breaks, then you will have to replace this link in order to repair the chain.

Chains with "normal" links. Old, traditional chains consist of standard links, each of which can be replaced with the same (if you have a tool).

2. Remove the broken chain. If you find that replacing the chain will be easier than repairing it, then the first thing you need to do is remove the old chain. If it is completely torn, then just spin the pedals and it will fall off the sprocket itself. If the chain does not fall off when scrolling, then it must be disconnected manually. This can be done with a pomace, available at almost any bike shop.

Splitting the chain links with the squeeze: Position the pin of the chain against the pin of the squeeze. Then tighten the screw of the pin, extruding the pin. If you plan to reuse the chain, do not remove the pin completely, but just enough to break the chain links.

After you have disengaged the chain, pedal so that the chain falls off the cassette. If you want to replace the chain, then remember to count the number of links in the old chain (on bikes with a rear derailleur, take into account the error). Also consider the type of drivetrain you have, as this determines the type of chain that will fit your bike. For example, a 9-speed chain is suitable for a 9-speed transmission, etc.

3. Raise the rear wheel. The next step is to thread the new chain through the rear derailleur. To do this, you will need to spin the rear wheel, which will be much easier if it is not on the ground. If you have a bike rack, or a pole in the wall to hang your bike on, take advantage of that. If you do not have such benefits, simply lift the back of the frame by placing something under it, such as a box or cinder block.

Check the position of the switches. The rear derailleur should be at the highest speed and the front derailleur at the lowest.

4. Thread the chain through the rear derailleur. On most modern mountain bikes, the rear derailleur is a spring-loaded system of mechanisms that descends downwards under the main rear sprocket. Threading the chain through this mechanism requires special attention, as the safety of the ride depends on it. Take the "mother" (the end of the chain without the pin) of the pre-sized chain, and circle it around the lower idler, and then around the upper one. If done correctly, the chain will run in an S-shape. If S turned out to be uneven, it is possible that the chain did not fit into all the grooves of the rollers, or caught on something.

There may be a small metal lug between the rear derailleur idlers. The chain must not touch it.

Some bicycles, such as "grouses" (fixed gear bicycles), or bicycles with planetary hubs, do not have a rear derailleur. In such cases, simply put the chain on the sprocket and pedal as instructed in the next step.

5. Put the chain on the rear cassette. On mountain bikes, the rear cassette is a set of multiple sprockets attached to the rear wheel. Once the chain has been threaded through the derailleur, slide it over the smallest sprocket in the cassette. After making sure that the chain is securely passed through the derailleur and is firmly on the sprocket, pull it slightly.

6. Thread the chain through the front derailleur. On most modern mountain bikes, there is a metal mechanism in the front sprocket area that moves the chain from one sprocket to another. Pass the front end of the chain through this derailleur. If the chain does not reach, push the rear wheel a little further.

Capercaillie, again, don't have a front derailleur, so just slide the chain over the front sprocket as shown in the next step.

7. Put the chain on the front sprocket. Put the chain on the smallest front sprocket. Pull it well, and check that it lies on all the teeth of the sprocket, then scroll the pedal.

8. Connect the ends of the chain. Now that the chain has been securely passed through all the components of the transmission, you can connect the ends and enjoy your rides again. Place the connecting link ("mother" and "father") in the squeeze, on the stop, which is closer to the fixing screw. When adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the clamped pin so that they are aligned. Tighten the link with the fixing screw. Rotate the handle to clamp the pin into the link. Constantly monitor the degree of immersion of the pin. Failure to comply with this subtlety can lead to breakage.

One useful tool is the c-clip (small thin piece of metal) that helps hold the two ends of the chain together. This makes the job much easier because you don't have to hold the two ends of the chain yourself. A bent paperclip can serve as such a C-bracket.

Method 2 of 2: Replacing a Loose Chain

1. Determine where the chain jumped off. Sometimes the chain does not break, but simply leaves its usual position. Since it is still on the front and rear derailleurs in this case, no special intervention is required - all you have to do is install the chain back onto the sprocket. If the chain falls off en route, get off the bike, lay it on its side, sprockets up, and find the place to dismount. Usually the chain falls off the front sprocket but remains on both derailleurs.

Look for places where the chain can be pinched. Take appropriate measures before your next trip.

2. Loosening the eccentric in case the chain is pinched. As mentioned above, sometimes the chain will get stuck between the rear sprocket and the frame. In this case, loosen the rear wheel eccentric and unscrew the eccentric nut so that the chain can be removed.

The eccentric is opened by unclenching a small lever located in the center of the rear wheel. Then unscrew the nut opposite side from the lever and release the chain.

Don't forget to clamp the eccentric back before riding. The nut should be moderately tight, so that the lever is not too tight and not too loose. If the lever is too tight, loosen the nut a little and try tightening again. If the lever is clamped too easily, the nut must be tightened.

3. On bikes with rear derailleurs, loosen the chain tension and pull it over the front sprocket. Most bikes have a spring in the rear derailleur that keeps the chain tensioned while riding. Overcoming the resistance of the spring, tension the chain so that it can be put on the smallest front sprocket. Then release the chain and make sure it is tight enough.

As a rule, you can now continue driving. At first, the bike may ride erratically until the chain sits in the correct position.

4. On bikes without gears, the chain is pulled onto the front sprocket by turning the pedal. As mentioned above, in many bicycles, for example, in "grouse" there are no speed switches. In this case, put the chain on the rear sprocket, and, hooking it on as far as possible large quantity teeth on the bottom of the front sprocket, pedal backwards. The chain should catch on and begin to wrap around the sprocket. When the chain wraps around the last top tooth of the sprocket, it will be able to function properly.

Pedaling will be easier if you lift the rear wheel. To do this, you can put the bike on a rack, or put some material under it. You can also ask someone to hold the rear wheel on the weight, or, in extreme cases, just turn the bike over.

5. Smoothly pedal until the desired speed is reached. Get on your bike and start moving slowly. If you have a speed bike, the chain may jump off at the same speed at which it was standing before the breakage. Otherwise, set the speed yourself until the chain friction disappears.

Note that if the chain falls off on fixed speed bikes, it may be a sign of a loose chain tension. Therefore, adjust the chain tension before the next ride.

6. Do a "general" check. Before the first post-repair ride, set the most comfortable speed. Shift all speeds on the front and rear derailleurs to make sure the chain doesn't bind anywhere.

Adviсe:

It's not unusual for a chain to drop from time to time, but if it happens too often, professional help may be needed.

If you have the opportunity, get a special tool called a chain tensioner. Buy yourself a couple and follow the instructions on the package. Typically, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and an Allen wrench of a certain size. These tools will help you maintain proper chain tension.

If your chain is still slack and you can't get professional help, you may need to remove a few chain links to shorten it. But, do not take on this if you do not know how to remove the links correctly.

Every cyclist should have basic knowledge and repair skills. So you can not only save on service, but also not be in a hopeless situation, being away from the bike workshop.

Caveats:

Braid your long hair, tuck in your clothes, and button your fly all the way down before you repair your chain.

It is better to use gloves when repairing, so as not to get your hands dirty in grease.

Do not stick your fingers into the chain, otherwise they can be injured, or lost altogether.

Bicycle chain

The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the maintenance of the chain in perfect condition that guarantees the adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have in a "bicycle" farm? How to change the chain on your own, so as not to contact the bicycle master for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.

Chain: choice and competent care

For people who still remember, the suggestion “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds a bit wild. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bike itself. The answer is simple: those bikes had only one speed, because the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bikes. Now even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are no doubt stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads in such operation.

So, it's time to replace the chain on your own bike: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers, you can find chains of various prices and various qualities. All these chains can easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains indefinitely until he finds the one that will completely suit him.

ADVICE! For a cassette of 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 - for 9 and so on.

When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the labeling: usually companies put information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, CN-HG53 will be much simpler than CN-7701.

For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already needs to be replaced or repaired, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the stars: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most truthful way to determine chain wear should be considered not mileage (sometimes 100 km of off-road and dirt country walks will pass for 1000 km of calm city bike rides), but the length of 24 links of the chain:

in the normal state, this figure is 304.8 mm;
306.5-307.5 mm - a reason to change the chain;
307.5-308 mm - signals not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system status.

Another way to “by eye” find out how worn out the chain is the following: after installing the chain on a large star, it should be lightly pulled with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the star, the chain is worn out, but still suitable for riding, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often signal its wear.

Replacing the chain on a bicycle: remove and install correctly

Experts advise following some simple recommendations that will allow the bike owner to avoid possible problems with chain:

do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
done on time will help you protect it from an early breakdown.
do not use thick lubricants and products like WD40 as chain lubrication;
use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.

Chain lock.

If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and skillfully. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only on children's or cheap bikes. For a similar design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.

Chain with pin.

The situation is more complicated if the bike has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - squeeze, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:

It is necessary to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
Insert the chain into the release tool. You can do this like this: or using the seat, in which you can press in or press out the axle, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the sleeve is adjusted.
Push the axle towards the reinforcing screw (the squeeze screw is turned with a handle).

IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axis, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.

Before installing the chain the exact length must be determined on the bike: if the length is insufficient, then the chain will not allow easy gear shifting, and if it is too long, it will hang out.

Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper dexterity, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:

Install switches on small stars.
We put the chain on the bike, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one bypasses on the left, and the upper one on the right.
After the links are aligned and fixed with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeeze.
Carefully press in the axle by slowly turning the squeeze handle: monitor the level of immersion relative to neighboring links.
We check how the axis works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.

Bicycle chain problems

One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process cannot actually be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove extra links as it lengthens.

In order to shorten the chain you will need for the chain and pliers:

We disconnect the chain, remove the squeeze.
We determine the number of extra links (the best way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
We remove the extra links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
We connect the chain and check its mobility.

Another difficulty is chain slip: Depending on the severity of this problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding, or serious difficulties, leading to the likely loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the causes of chain slippage are the following:

Caliper adjustment. In the middle positions, this can lead to the fact that the chain will jump over the sprockets, and in the extreme positions, it can jam between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: at the same time, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain starts to jump off at increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can be solved only by the complete or partial replacement of the damaged element.
The presence of dirt in the chain or. Dirt particles, ice, grass or earth can cause chain malfunctions. Eliminating slips in this case is easy: just clean and lubricate the chain.
Twisting or breaking the chain. Twisting is an easily solved problem that occurs when an unsuccessful plexus or removal of a jammed chain. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A break, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.

Chain damper

Chain damper.

When the bike is moving, which cause it to fall. Because of this, you can get hurt. Used to prevent. A range of accessories is called a chain guide. Usually, this is a design of two rollers and rocking. It is placed in place of the front derailleur on the frame, providing protection for the chainring and holding the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.

The power part that protects the front chainring from impacts is a rockring. It partially performs the function of a calmer, is commercially available. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. Rockring is fixed as standard, and can be operated in tandem with. The main element of "calming" is the roller supporting the chain.

Sedatives are:

Rollerless. The chain is held by the frame. This is an easy option.
With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on the bottom.
With wide rollers - for.

Types of mounting dampers:

ISCG - fastening with screws on the frame in three places.
ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
BB - fastening to the carriage. She draws the pacifier to.

There is a sedative on the cassette. It is mounted at the back. It is rare on professional bikes, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it is a hindrance to gear shifting, it consumes energy.

Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It can be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal firms - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand, its price is too high. The most popular brand is Shimano. Its products are designed for the Russian buyer.

Video. How to put a chain on a bike

On domestic road bikes, chains are made detachable, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bikes, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette installed on your bike.

For 10 speed cassettes, use a 6.2mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG95
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6 to 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm wide chain such as SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

Chains are sold in two types - boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). Usually in the box there is a replaceable axis (pin) designed to connect the chain segments. One end of such an axis is pointed, which facilitates its installation.

Pressing the chain requires squeezing.

After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.

If the chain is not equipped with a special pin with a pointed end (like many chains sold without a box), then the pin must be inserted into one of the segment's plates.

Pressing the chain also requires squeezing.

Some chains are sold with a special connecting link. In this case, no tools are required to connect the chain.

These links are also sold separately. By the way, for cyclists going on a long bike trip, it makes sense to include a connecting link in a personal repair kit: just in case.

Naturally, when purchasing a connecting link, one must take into account the width of the chain; for 8, 9, 10 - speed chains, the connecting links are different.

Installing the chain using a connecting pin (axle).


	We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.
	We fill the chain into the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo - on the left). Important note- Many squeezers have two chain slots. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. It is there that the chain must be refueled for removal and installation. (as shown in the pictures) The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press the axle when the chain is tucked into this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.
	We press the axle into the chain by turning the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis plunges into the hole almost completely (compare with neighboring links). We take the chain out of the squeeze. If we use a replaceable axis, then we break off the pointed end with pliers.
	We check that the chain in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, thread the chain into another squeeze seat (the one closest to the squeeze handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.

Installing the chain with a connecting link.

Before installing the chain, you must put the front and rear derailleurs in the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

No tools are required to rivet a chain with a connecting link, and the process itself is simple and straightforward.

	We put the chain on the bike. It is important to correctly put the chain on the tensioner rollers. The chain bypasses the lower roller on the left, and the upper roller on the right.
	We insert both halves of the connecting link into the extreme links of the chain.
	We combine the extreme links.
	We make sure that the connecting link has risen correctly, without distortions. And just pull the chain by hand.
	We check that the chain just in the newly connected segment bends freely, without jamming. After assembly, the chain should be slightly bent in the transverse direction to ensure better link mobility.

What is the function of a bicycle chain? Anyone who has even a glimpse of bicycles, not to mention amateurs and professionals, can answer this question. A chain is a transmission element that acts as an intermediary in transferring the efforts of a cyclist to the rear wheel.

The most important indicator of the effectiveness of its work is rigidity. An excessively tensioned chain makes it difficult to move, quickly wears out the gearshift system, and even fails itself. In a weakened state, it dangles, does not clearly shift gears, and can generally fly off the stars.

Optimum tension is the key to successful and long-term operation of the entire transmission unit. Many bike owners change the degree of stiffness themselves by removing or adding links. However, there is also a special device - a chain tensioner, which autonomously controls stiffness and helps the cyclist get rid of unnecessary fuss.

Chain tensioner - how it works

The tensioner is installed with the rear derailleur on bicycles with a multi-speed open transmission. Additionally, they can be placed on other types of bicycles, for example, with a planetary control system. The simple design of this device provides a clear fixation of the bicycle chain, and also protects against falling off in case of strong pulling.

The optimal position of the tensioner rollers is parallel to the rear chainring system, that is, the chain runs straight along it and without distortions. Otherwise, the holder of the switching system is bent. To align it, you need to grab and pull the entire device (switch), and not just the tensioner.

Diagram of a rear derailleur with a tensioner

Usage efficiency

The "extra sprocket" system helps keep the chain stiff in a position for a smooth transition between gears. As already said, excessive tension complicates the switching process, while in a loose state, the links jump over the stars, due to which some speeds may not turn on or the accuracy of the transition to other sprockets will sharply decrease.

The tensioner device helps only temporarily compensate for elongations during operation, but does not eliminate wear itself. On bicycles with a multi-sprocket drivetrain, the chain stretches many times faster than in a standard front-rear chainring system due to constant slight misalignment. Exceeding the fixing force of the switch rollers when stretched leads to the fact that the device can no longer cope with the chain, and you will have to shorten it yourself.

The tensioner is installed additionally

However, the use on a mountain bike is fully justified: the chains are long enough, in addition, there is no sagging at any ratio of front and rear chainrings. As for self-installation on a bicycle, where this is not provided, there is no particular reason for this: it will be much easier to remove and shorten a stretched chain by removing extra links. In addition, the price of such devices also does not indulge.

Tensioner installation

A situation may arise when the roller lock has become unusable: the rollers themselves have become loose or the foot is bent. The problem will be especially relevant for a mountain bike, which is often run in tough conditions, and it’s simply impossible not to hit something! In such cases, you can put a new tensioner. The first thing to do is buy it. In principle, there should be no difficulties: bicycle parts manufacturers, for example, shimano, actively produce such parts for specific bicycle models.

Mountain bike wheel and roller lock

You can install the roller tensioner using the mounting bolts. The chain must first be thrown off the rear sprockets. After the tensioner is installed, it is removed from the front as well. You need to dress in the following order:

Big star on the back.
Tensioner guide roller.
External roller.
Largest chainring. In order for the chain to completely sit down, you need to pedal a little.

You can adjust the tensioner by changing the angle relative to the frame. The optimal position will be near the "critical angle" where the tension is maximum. Since increased chain stiffness is not good, it should have a little free play. However, it is not worth it to move too far, otherwise the chain will start to ride. What should be the angle? There is no exact answer, this parameter is individual for each bike, and self-adjustment will require care. An alternative option is to contact a specialized workshop.

After the retainer is installed and adjusted, its operation must be tested in real conditions using various options chain positions between stars. Also, when checking, you need to listen to your own feelings: how easy it is to pedal and how quickly the gear changes. And of course, we must remember that even the tensioner must be replaced in a timely manner in order to maintain the integrity of the entire transmission.